PORTFOLIO

LAURA KLY

PATTERN MAKING

HOW & WHY?

IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES YOU WILL BE LOOKING AT PATTERN MAKER LAURA’S KVIKLYTE PORTFOLIO. SEGMENTS OF PROJECTS ARE DIVIDED INTO INTRO PAGE WITH A COVER PHOTO FOLLOWED BY PROCESS, OUTCOME AND TECHNICAL, DOCUMENTATION DETAILS.

ALL PATTERNS ARE MADE USING GERBER PDS SYSTEM UNLESS INDICATED DIFFERENTLY.

IN CASE OF POSSIBLE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS PLEASE CONTACT ME AT LAURAKLY@YAHOO.COM

ENJOY!

Collaborationwith

Diana Dovgialo

ProcessDRC - Diana Rubber Coat

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)

Key details: Zipper in the lapel roll lineVoluminous ranglan sleevesRubber fabric (considered seam allowence where not needed)

DRCMeasurement chart created for CMT production

DRC

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

DRC19-Nov-14

Measurement ChartRubber CoatDRCUNI SEASONMLKLY

The style is constructed to have asymetrical details, applications are provided by the designer and is to be placed according to sketch. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

XS S M L XLToll/ cm +/-

19.4 19.7 20 20.3 20.6 0.354 57 60 63 66 0.5

48.5 54.5 60.5 63.5 66.5 165.8 66.4 67 67.6 68.2 0.545.5 46.25 47 47.75 48.5 0.590.1 90.55 91 91.45 91.9 0.318.2 19.1 20 20.9 21.8 0.214.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 0.2

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

Measurements (in cm)

A. 1/2 Neck widthB. 1/2 Chest width (measure at 30cm down from nape)C. 1/2 Hem widthD. Nape to hemE. Back width (measure at 25cm down from center back)F. Sleeve length (measure from nape, down th seam with cuff)G. 1/2 Sleeve width at biceps (measure right sleeve) 5cm down the seamH. 1/2 Sleeve hem (at cuff junction)

Glitch detail at front is an application by hand, provided by designer. Therefore on the sketch there are no topstitching, although there is on the garment. Until production stage, some other glueing techniques could be exprimented on.

A

C

B E

F

G

H

D

DRCPRODUCT Diana Rubber Coat

STYLE DRCSEASON UNI SEASON

SIZE 50INITIALS LKLY

BASIC PATTERN DRCDATE 20-Oct-14

Comments: Melting lapel, zipper in the lapel construction line, cuffs are knitted (made to measure)

size not to scale

Style Sketch

Zipper in the lapel construction line

Double breasted construction, so the lapel would drop heavier

The black glitch-like detail is stitched on top

Cargo pocket is hanging from a layer coming out under the turned back lapel

Sketch drwn by Diana Dovgialo

- FRAGMENT FROM BA THESIS REPORT, NOVEMBER 2014

THE HIGH-END STREET WEAR MENSWEAR COLLECTION UGLY BOY IS AIMING AT YOUNG MALES IN THEIR 20s AND 30s. iT IS DIRECTED AT A TARGET GROUP OF SCHOOL DROP OUTS BRINGING IN AN INTELLI-GENT REBELLION AGAINST...EVERYTHING.A CONSCIOUSMISFIT, HARMLESS SKINHEADS. THEY ARE AGGRESSIVE AND DELICATE AT THE SME TIME, PASSIVE AND ACTIVE, MATURE AND CHILD-LIKE. LIKE TWO SIDES OF ONE COIN AT THE SAME TIME. THEY ASK UNANSWER-ABLE QUESTIONS. THEY ARE UNLIKELIEST EXPLORERS. THEIR ABILITY TO PRESENT THEIR DIVERSE MIND IS REFLECTED GREATLY UPON THEIR CLOTHING, SHOWING OFF, MAKING A STATEMENT. AFTER ALL, THAT’S WHAT ONES AFTER GOING THROUGH THE HELL AND BACK.

ProcessDMW+DMP Diana Mask Windbreaker and Pants

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (graded in alpha numeric XS - XL sizes)

Key details: Illusion of a face is created by seam manipulation and details using contrast fabrcis on the upper body.Trousers has no centre back seamDouble waist bands holds pants at high waist (with elastic band inside)

Full CMT documentation + zoomed in grading with measurement chart

This product was graded Full documentation created for CMT production

DMW

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

The style is constructed to with asymetrical details. There could be some unpredicted measurement distubance after sewing.

DWM219-Nov-14

Measurement ChartDiana Mask WindbreakerDMWUNI SEASONMLKLY

Measurements (in cm) XS S M L XLToll/ cm

+/- A. 1/2 Collar width 12.2 12.9 13.2 13.6 14.3 0.2B. 1/2 Neck width 20.5 20.9 21.3 21.7 22.1 0.2C. 1/2 Chest (30 cm down from nape) 52.5 55.5 58.5 61.5 64.5 0.3D. 1/2 Hem (at RIB) 35.0 38.0 41.0 44.0 47.0 0.3E. Shoudler to shoulder (back) 65.7 66.6 67.5 68.4 69.3 0.5F. Back width (measure at 25cm down from center back) 58.2 59.1 60.0 60.9 61.8 0.5G. Center back seam length 53.9 54.5 55.0 55.5 56.1 0.3H. Sleeve length (measure the right sleeve) Measure with RIB 68.5 68.5 68.5 68.5 68.5 0.5I. 1/2 Armhole width (measure the right sleeve) Straight from shoulder point to armhole/side seam

22.0 22.7 23.5 24.4 25.4 0.2

J. 1/2 Sleeve hem ( at RIB) 11.6 12.3 13.0 13.7 14.4 0.2

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

A

E

H

J

G

F

B

C

D

Waist is not measured due to hemline being not far from it and also elastic.

DM

W

DMW

PRODUCT Diana Mask WindbreakerSTYLE DMW

SEASON UNI SEASONSIZE M

INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN DWM2

DATE 19-Nov-14

Pattern grading overview

DMW

Full CMT documentation + zoomed in grading with measurement chart

DMP

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

LKLYDMP19-Nov-14

Measurement ChartM.A.S.K. PantsDMPUNI SEASONM

Measurements (in cm) XS S M L XL Toll +/- cm

A. 1/2 Waist (measure at upper waistband edge) 36 39 42 45 48 1B. 1/2 Waistband width 38 41 44 47 50 1C. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down center front 51 54 57 60 63 1D. 1/2 Knee width (40cm up from hem exl. RIB) 29.2 30.1 31 31.9 32.8 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width at RIB 12.8 13.4 14 14.6 15.2 0.5F. Inseam (measure together with RIB) 66.5 66.7 67 67.3 67.5 0.3G. Outer length(measure together with RIB) 101.8 102.4 103 103.6 104.2 0.5

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

Waist measurement at pants is smaller than the body measurment of the model due to elastic band.

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

DMP

This product was graded Full documentation created for CMT production

DM

P

DMP

PRODUCT M.A.S.K. PantsSTYLE DMP

SEASON UNI SEASONINITIALS LKLY

BASIC PATTERN DMPDATE 19-Nov-14

Pattern grading overview

Collaborationwith

Arina Maslova

ProcessATOP + ATR - Arina Top and Trousers

Fitting 1

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (graded)

Key details: Asymetrical cut trousers. It has a loose �t, features “banana” shape at the hemTwo legs has asymetrical construction - one side has a pleat which creates more width, so the other leg was edited to �t the width of the pleated side. Double waistbands are constructed in a way to �t the waist and still be able to unzip and fold down. Straight waistband created jeans looseness,while the top, shaped waistband is hugging the body or can be unzipped.Top is featuring low drop shoulder jumper construction which has top layer of a tank top. Sheer material was selected to emphasise the mood of the collection.

ATOPMeasurement chart created for CMT production + grading overview (sizes UK 4 - UK 16)

A-TOP

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

Neck width measurement is meant to be disrupted, due to wanting to wear it with the shoulder down the arm.

A-TOP3P19-Nov-14

Measurement ChartARINA SWEATER TOPA-TOPS/S 16UK6LKLY

Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Neck width (body layer) 39.6 40.0 40.5 41.0 41.6 42.3 42.9 0.7B. 1/2 Neck width (top layer) 39.6 40.0 40.5 41.0 41.6 42.3 42.9 0.7C. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 25cm below center front) on the body layer

48.5 50.0 52.0 54.0 56.5 59.0 61.50.7

D. 1/2 Hem width 48.5 50.0 52.0 54.0 56.5 59.0 61.5 0.7E. Shoulder seam 24.2 24.5 24.9 25.3 25.9 26.4 27.0F. 1/2 Sleeve armhole width 25.8 26.0 26.4 26.7 27.2 27.6 28.1 0.5G. Sleeve length (from top cap point to hem) 43.9 44.0 44.2 44.3 44.6 44.8 45.0 0.5H. Sleeve hem width 11.8 12.0 12.3 12.6 13.0 13.3 13.7 0.5

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

Front

Back

A

B

CF

H

D

EG

ATRMeasurement chart created for CMT production + grading overview (sizes UK 4 - UK 16)

A-TR175

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

LKLYA-TR17519-Nov-14

Measurement ChartARINA TROUSERS A-TR175S/S 16UK6

Notes: D. knee width measurement are not exactly the same on both legs due to pleat detail. Also, it is easer to measure it from waist, than from bananna legs hem. Measurement C and G is to be measured at the front right leg due to pleat detail and cut out at the side on the fron left.

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Waist (measured straight from side points) 36.5 38.0 40.0 42.0 44.5 47.0 49.5 0.5B. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down from the zipper start point) 44.5 46.0 48.0 50.0 52.5 55.0 57.5 0.5C. 1/2 Thigh width (measure at crutch seam as shown) 31.2 32.0 33.2 34.3 35.7 37.2 38.6 0.5D. 1/2 Knee width (measure at 56cm below zipper start point) 23.1 24.0 25.2 26.4 27.9 29.4 30.9 0.2E. 1/2 Ankle width 15.4 16.0 16.8 17.6 18.6 19.6 20.6 0.3F. Front rise length (measure along the seam, excluding waistband) 26.8 27.0 27.3 27.6 28.0 28.4 28.7 0.3G. Outseam length measured excluding waistbands) 111.3 111.5 111.8 112.1 112.5 112.8 113.2 0.3H. Inside leg (measure along the seam) 81.3 81.0 80.6 80.2 79.7 79.2 78.7 0.3I. Back rise length (measure along the seam) 33.0 33.5 34.1 34.7 35.5 36.3 37.1 0.3

A

B

F

C

G

I

D

H

E

ProcessALC - Arina Leather Coat

Sketch

Key details:Asymetrical leather jacket with removable bottom layers (in total 96 pattern pieces)Low cap sleeves on drastically dropped shouldersBottom layers are attached with 2 zippers to the waistband of the jacket which are levelled in a way so to not intersect Vertical inseam pockets are at both front sides of the jacket

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)

FRONT BACK

SLEEVES FACING + LINING

A-LC

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

A-LC3P19-Nov-14

Measurement ChartARINA LEATHER COATA-LCS/S 16UK8LKLY

Measurement UK4 UK6 UK8 UK10 UK12 UK14 UK16Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Neck width 9.6 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.6 12.3 12.9 0.4B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 32cm from nape) 59.5 61.0 63.0 65.0 67.5 70.0 72.5 0.5C. 1/2 Waist width (measure at 46cm from nape) 57.7 59.2 61.2 63.2 65.7 68.2 70.7 0.5D. 1/2 Hip widht (measure where waistband starts) 55.5 57.0 59.0 61.0 63.5 66.0 68.5 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width 55.5 57.0 59.0 61.0 63.5 66.0 68.5 0.5F. Nape to jacket hem length (incl. waistband) 71.2 71.6 72.0 72.5 73.1 73.7 74.3 0.7G Jacket hem to bottom layer hem (excl. waistband) 58.3 58.0 57.5 57.1 56.5 55.9 55.3 0.5H. Shoulder to shoudler 61.2 62.2 63.5 64.8 66.5 68.2 69.9 0.4I. 1/2 Upper arm (measure at 4cm from armhole seam) 20.9 21.4 22.0 22.7 23.4 24.2 24.9 0.3J. Sleeve length 53.15 53.3 53.5 53.7 53.95 54.2 54.45 0.3K. 1/2 Wrist width 10.65 10.8 11 11.2 11.45 11.7 11.95 0.2

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

A

B

C

D

E

G

H

I

J

K

F

ALCMeasurement chart created for CMT production (not graded)

A-LC

PRODUCT ARINA LEATHER COATSTYLE A-LC

SEASON S/S 16SIZE UK6

INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN A-LC3P

DATE 19-Nov-14

Comments: Loose leather jacket with removable bottom layers. size not to scale

Style Sketch

Sketch drawn by Laura Kviklyte

with

Anna Schuller

Collaboration

ProcessANT+ ANTR - Anna Top and Trousers

Key details: Asymetrical cutOne shoulder has more lenght and fullnessDrapped look performed by Gerber PDS

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)

Key details: Slim �tSlightly lowered crutch, with low waistband. One layer of it is quilted with adhesive volume fusing in the construction.Trousers has invisible zips at the back of the hem

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)

ANT+ANTRMeasurement chart created for CMT production

ANT

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

Neck width measurement is meant to be disrupted, due to wanting to wear it with the shoulder down the arm.

ANT5P19-Nov-14

Measurement ChartANNA TOPANTS/S 1636LKLY

Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44 46Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Neck width (body layer) 23.35 23.50 23.65 23.80 23.95 24.10 24.25 0.7B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 25cm from nape) on the body layer 45.00 47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 57.00

0.7C. 1/2 Waist 43.00 45.00 47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 0.5D. 1/2 Hem width 50.00 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 0.7E. Shoulder seam 7.80 8.00 8.20 8.40 8.60 8.80 9.00 0.5F. 1/2 Sleeve armhole width 27.30 27.50 27.70 27.90 28.10 28.30 28.50 0.5

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

A E E

F

B

C

D

Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller

ANTR

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

Measurement ChartANNA TROUSERS ANTRS/S 1636LKLYA-TR17519-Nov-14

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44 46Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Waist (measure at waistband edge) 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 48.5 50.5 52.5 0.5B. 1/2 Hip (measure 15cm down from waistband excluding WB) 47.0 49.0 51.0 53.0 55.0 57.0 59.0 0.5C. 1/2 Thigh width (measure at 6 cm below the crutch) 26.5 27.0 27.5 28.0 28.5 29.0 29.5 0.2D. 1/2 Knee width (measure up at 53.5cm from the hem) 19.1 19.5 19.9 20.3 20.7 21.1 21.5 0.2E. 1/2 Ankle width 14.1 14.5 14.9 15.3 15.7 16.1 16.5 0.2F. Front rise length (measure along the seam, excluding waistband) 18.8 19.0 19.2 19.4 19.6 19.8 20.0 0.3G. Outseam length measured excluding waistbands) 96.8 97.0 97.2 97.4 97.6 97.8 98.0 0.5H. Inside leg (measure along the seam) 83.2 83.0 82.8 82.6 82.4 82.2 82.0 0.3I. Back rise length (measure along the seam) 27.3 27.5 27.7 27.9 28.1 28.3 28.5 0.3

A

BF

C

D G

I

H

ESketch drawn by Anna Schuller

Crutch is dropped slighly, cross pockets at sides and piping pockets at the back

Collection Merge is based on the Japanese values of Wabi Sabi and Zen. She can re�ect her own values in Merge’s values. She is inspired by the craftsmanship, quality and sophistication that Merge designs represents.

ProcessANC - Anna Coat

Key details:Kimono construction with trench coat detailsGathered yoke detail at the back + build up collar which at the neck back is stading on its own>>Tailored look inside: facing is having a shape borrowed from menswearThe whole body is fused due to light material

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns (not graded)

Insides: lining anf facings

ANCMeasurement chart created for CMT production (not graded)

ANC

PRODUCT ANNA COATSTYLE ANC

SEASON S/S 16SIZE 36

INITIALS LKLYBASIC PATTERN ANC4

DATE 19-Nov-14

Comments:

Kimono cut, back yoke is controlled by a string. Upper pockets at front is connected to a cut out detai.

size not to scale

Style Sketch

Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller

A

B

G

H

I

J

C

D

E

F

ANC

PRODUCTSTYLE

SEASONSIZE

INITIALS BASIC PATTERN

DATE

Comments:

size not to scale

The product is to be measured with the zipper closure closed.

ANC419-Nov-14

LKLY

Measurement ChartANNA COATANCS/S 1636

Measurement 34 36 38 40 42 44Toll +/-

cmA. 1/2 Neck width 17.85 18.00 18.15 18.30 18.45 18.60 0.2B. 1/2 Bust width (measure at 24cm below nape point until sleeve seams)

47.00 49.00 51.00 53.00 55.00 57.000.5

C. 1/2 Waist width (measure at 42cm below nape point) 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 64.00 0.5D. 1/2 Hip widht (measure at 65cm below nape point) 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 62.00 0.5E. 1/2 Hem width 50.00 52.00 54.00 56.00 58.00 60.00 0.5F. Nape to hem length in a straight line 104.80 105.00 105.20 105.40 105.60 105.80 0.5G. 1/2 Upper arm (measure from armhole point straight to point where front yoke ends.

19.40 20.00 20.60 21.20 21.80 22.400.2

H. Shoulder to shoudler (find shoulder point 19cm from neck) 51.80 53.00 54.20 55.40 56.60 57.80 0.4I. Sleeve length 59.30 59.50 59.70 59.90 60.10 60.30 0.4J. 1/2 Wrist width 12.80 13.00 13.20 13.40 13.60 13.80 0.2

NOTE: The sizes in this section below refer to the garments and not the models. Product is to be measured when laying on the table.

Sketch drawn by Anna Schuller

MenswearProject

Suit + Casual Outfit

ProcessSuit - shirt, trousers and a blazer

Skinny look suit was developed in 3 �ttings. The last one was sewn fully fused + canvas with volume fusing at chest area

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

Key details: Classical suit reworked into more relaxed, youthful lookNarrow notch collarVents in between side and backReal closure at sleeveFelt collar

OutcomeReady-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

Fusing Shell fabric Facing+Lining

OutcomeBlazer Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

OutcomeShirt and trousers Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

Key details:Shirt has ranglan sleeve construction; classical wear transformed into fresh, youthful look.Yoke has asymetrical shape

ProcessCasual out�t - bomber jacket and jeans

For this out�t it was enough of one �tting. Slash alteration method was applied in the back for more width for the musculous back

OutcomeBomber jacket and jeans Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

OutcomeBomber jacket and jeans Ready-for-production patterns ( graded in menswear TEKO EURO sizes 44-58 )

SHOW PIECEProject

MUGLER

The purpose of the project was to create something that is shown on houte couture runway. Something creative, complicated and challenging

ProcessShowpiece - corsage, trousers and tailored jacket

1st sample

Key details: Corsage is meant to be immitating metalJacket is absolutely asymetrical, tailored on a manequinwhilst not �tting the model perfectly. Has a drapped design feature on a shoulderTrousers has no waistband, the side seam is moved 6cm forward for design purposes

OutcomeCorsage + Trousers + Jacket

OutcomeCorsage + Trousers + Jacket patterns overview

Block patterns for the jacket Corsage patterns

Trousers

Due to jacket’s patterns being quite hard to understand without the block draft, it is the block patterns that represents the pattern overview of the construction.Trousers are cut in bias in order to provide a beautiful drapped �are.

Collaborationwith

Graduating BA-fashion design student, 2013

Lasma Antonova

Collaboration with Lasma A. - Coat

Key details:Waisted coat with detachable fur panelsCustomed collar is drapped around the coat and is partly attached to the armhome seam

Outcome

Collaboration with Lasma A. - Trousers

Key details: Highwaisted trousers tightly �tting on a modelFront exposed zipper closureTrousers has skirt construction top layer

Outcome

Key details:Dress has dart implemented into the princess seam construction, side panelCombination of two di�erent materials: chi�on and leather (leather seam allowence was glued with special glue)

OutcomeCollaboration with Lasma A. - leather dress

ProcessCollaboration with Lasma A.

On this piece I only provided guidance on construction and sewing & �nishing.

Key details: �at frontcross-like upper body construction - darts and playing with fullness