Earnshaw's | January 2015

VOLUME 99 NUMBER 1 JANUARY 201 5 $10.00

SWEDE TALK WITH POLARN O. PYRET • UNITED LEGWEAR STEPS INTO APPAREL • RAINWEAR’S BIG SPLASH

GO WILD

FALL’S BOLD

COATS

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

JANUARY 2015

4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 10 Hot Properties 12 Fresh Finds 16 In the Bag 18 The Fix 22 On Trend40 Behind the Seams

Left: jacket, shirt, skirt, hat,

crown and necklace.On cover: furry coat over

jacket, top, culottes worn over

tights, xfir hat, hair bow. Photography by Mark Andrew. Styling by Julie Brooke Williams. Hair and makeup by Jason Murillo at Kate Ryan. Prop styling by Cecilia Elguero at Kate Ryan.

FEATURES20 Rain or Shine Retail pros reveal their top tips for making a splash in the growing rainwear category.

26 The Swede Life From Nordic charm to cozy fabrics, Scandinavian retailer Polarn O. Pyret knows what American parents can’t resist.

28 Mix Master CEO Isaac Ash shares the big news behind the newly renamed

Company.

FASHION30 Let it Rain Say goodbye to the winter blues with fall’s electric outerwear.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor

Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Mike Hoff Webmaster

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor

[email protected] editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

Circulation Office

[email protected]

CORPORATE 9Threads

Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

30

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Dolce Union Jack™ shipping SPRING 2015

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IF YOU NEED a chuckle, just listen to a new mom recount her first time at baby yoga. Ostensibly, the goal of the class is to promote bonding between baby and mom, but in the ver-sion I heard, my exhausted friend found herself catching up on some much-needed shut-eye. Baby yoga became baby nap time—for mommy, too.

Perhaps it’s not so surprising that infants are being introduced to the workout world before

they’ve even developed their fine motor skills. After all, it seems like the aver-age adult isn’t content these days until

look at the jump in the participation rates for various extreme fitness activities: According to

number of folks who have finished a marathon has more than tripled

the number of sanc-tioned triathlons in the

tell you about the explosive growth of CrossFit,

gyms across the globe. It only makes sense that our tendency to

test our physical limits would get passed along to the next generation. Case in point: the success of Lululemon’s kids’ spin-off, Ivivva, which offers athletic wear for girls ages 6 and up. While sales flounder for parent brand

now find the company’s famous yoga pants at

definitely reside at the high-end side of the girls’ activewear market. But the numbers don’t

them for their daughters.

taking everything from Zumba to yoga today, but that’s not the only reason sportswear is seeing a surge. Anyone who has opened a fash-ion mag lately can tell you that even luxury designers are getting in on the craze. Last year’s runways were filled with high-fashion takes on sport sandals by everyone from Balenciaga

Sportswear as daily wear is here to stay (for a season or two, at least), and what better demo-graphic for the category than kids?

After all, kids already gravitate toward comfy, stretchy clothes. Add a fashion aspect, and you’ve got a must-have item for every girls’

rainbow-bright Malibu Sugar camisole, come

Isaac Ash is going for with his company’s first kids’ clothing collection for Puma. “Many of the kids’ pieces are neon bright with splashes of black, white or gray, made with performance fabrics in fashion-forward silhouettes,” he told

Armour and Adidas. But with Ivivva and other brands breaking

into the market, it looks like the sportswear staples of yore aren’t Ash’s only competition. (Fast-fashion giant H&M recently introduced a Sport line offering items for kids, too.) But with a team he describes as “best in class,” and a his-

brands, the market-savvy CEO is certainly prepared to give his competitors a run for their money.

Have you flexed your fashion muscles lately with sporty looks? Stretched your sales poten-

for any sleek new brands that balance comfort and design? If not, it may be time to shape up your inventory with the kind of fitness regi-ment that’s actually fun—one that will ring the

editor’s note

AUDREY GOODSON [email protected]

Make a New Year’s Resolution to get active this year—with your assortment.

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big kid, big towel Toddlers will love to wrap themselves up in a towel that is luxuriously soft and fits just right. Made of our plush terry cloth, in our exclusive new prints, bath time just got a lot more fun.

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Talking

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Online marketplaces mimic the e-commerce experience for buyers.

SAY GOODBYE TO order forms and bulky PDF catalogs. Today, more and more brands are connecting with buyers in an easy and more convenient way—via virtual showrooms. But is this the next wave in wholesale or is it just a fad?

“While we think that retailers, manufac-turers and brands will always have a need to meet in person and evaluate product, a digital platform can help to extend and enhance the engagement year round,” says Vince Tsai, SVP and general manager for Shop The Floor, Advanstar’s web-based wholesale marketplace that operates

trade shows, including Magic and ENK Children’s Club. Powered by Swiss tech company Balluun, exhibiting brands place line sheets online, and buyers can browse through to look for potential business

include Brandboom, NuOrder and Pop-Market, among others. Generally these services charge vendors a fee and are free for buyers to use. Tsai adds, “There is a growing need in the fashion industry for more frequent product introductions and brand-buyer communication.”

That’s why Laura Egloff, founder and owner of California-designed Velveteen, signed up with Playtime’s Playologie

“It’s a great tool that we use regularly to manage our collection presentations and to easily provide interested buyers with a detailed view of the available collections,”

per year to house two collections and it’s perfect for small brands that don’t yet have showrooms or retail locations around the world. “When time zone dif-ferences are a challenge, we can simply send an invitation to our buyers and they can view all the details and images of each collection,” she says. Another upside of

a buyer walking the show floor might stumble on a new name, so too might an online browser.

And it’s not just trade shows that are making the move to online. Established brands, too, are stepping away from pen and paper and setting up wholesale por-tals on their own websites. “Tech savvy customers love it,” says Lackey Bevis, director of sales at Splendid, which has

been using Pop-Market for the past year. Many companies, she notes, no longer have the massive resources required to travel around the country to seek and source new product. “It saves them time and money to not have to travel to trade shows and showrooms.”

Alyssa Miller, head of operations for

echoes this sentiment, adding that it allows buyers to review product in their own time. “Buyers love to be able to ‘shop online’ whenever they wish, whether it

vacation,” she notes. Plus, “Since we are no longer physically writing orders and then entering them into another system, NuOrder has probably cut the time spent writing orders in half.”

Oren unveiled its virtual showroom two years ago. It features two seasons plus available inventory from each of

“When we come into the showroom in

or more orders placed online the night before,” says Oren. Her staff also sets up phone conferences with buyers while they are both looking at the website, walking them through each vendor to point out what’s selling and offering advice. “Our out-of-town stores are absolutely loving this experience. We used to see them once a season but with our website they are always in the loop without missing a thing,” Oren adds.

and designer of Lemon Loves Lime, which started working with NuOrder earlier this year, doesn’t think virtual showrooms will replace trade shows. Rather, she calls them “a great tool to help our industry advance itself to take advantage of new

century lifestyle.” Sebastien de Hutten, Playtime organizer, expands on this point. “Buyers come to shows because they need to feel the fabrics, meet the brands, get inspired, see the new trends, etc., but for many of them the orders come after the shows,” he says. “Brands need to understand that the future is mostly about saving time and working more efficiently.”

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Talking

Children’s companies hope to grow their social media presence with giveaways—but are they worth the hype?

“WHO DOESN’T LIKE free stuff?” laughs Stephanie Schaffer, sales and marketing man-ager for baby gear maker Prince Lionheart. She’s talking about the Santa Maria, CA-based brand’s penchant for hosting product giveaways on social media, and she’s not wrong: A study by

a brand’s Facebook page in order to get coupon codes or discounts. Similar to Prince Lionheart, many companies have gravitated toward sweep-

stakes and giveaways as a way to grow their footprint on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. But are these efforts actually raking in new revenue and helping brands and retailers grow their businesses?

It works for diaper bag brand Petunia -

site traffic when a promotion is running, which generally also leads to an uptick in sales,” says Korie Conant, co-owner and CMO. In the past year alone, her company has hosted giveaways around new launches and relevant holidays in partnership with such brands as Freshly Picked and Tea Collection, as well as on

Mom Picks and MomTrends. Ashley Lanxner, manager of Maitland,

FL-based baby and child store Maison Drake,

new customers she’s gained through social media

customers,” she points out, adding that she now runs contests a couple times a month, usually based on new arrivals or seasonal items. When Aden + Anais launched its Vintage Circus collec-tion last September, for example, Maison Drake partnered with the brand to gift the entire collec-tion to one lucky winner.

based kids’ furniture company Teamson, believes giveaways have been a major factor in spreading

hosting giveaways our numbers have climbed

engagement,” he reveals. And whether those numbers directly lead to dollars doesn’t matter.

but a way to gain more awareness and to tell our brand story which ultimately will lead to sales,”

play.”For Schaffer, giveaways are a surefire way to

garner feedback on Prince Lionheart’s new mer-

best focus group members are previous giveaway winners,” she says. The same goes for Petunia

interesting to watch a popular giveaway unfold on a blog or Instagram account as it often acts as a bit of market research. We get genuine feedback on the product we are giving away from people who are often seeing it for the very first time.”

Many businesses run contests with high hopes, but their promotions end up falling short of the expected outcome, says Ali Mirza, founder of

to find out what works best for yours,” she notes. Vargas says it’s important for a brand to define

your budget, how many giveaway events you will run and what you will give away per event,” he advises. And at the end of the day, the goal of a giveaway should focus on building a quality consumer base, says Vivienne Van Eijkelenborg , president of Dutch baby product purveyor Difrax. She decided to regularly run social media con-tests as a means to drive buzz for the brand when

to also sign up for the brand’s newsletter was crucial—it helps keep Difrax top of mind with its

those who are interested.”

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a fashion movement in 1955 with the Munsingwear golf shirt—a casual, com-fortable, solid-colored polo shirt worn by everyone from Frank Sinatra to Richard Nixon. Now, riding the waves of a brand resurgence, Original Penguin has inked a deal with Parigi Children’s Apparel, which will produce a boys’ collection for the label in Spring ’15, followed by an infants’ line later in the year.

True to Original Penguin’s gentlemanly aesthetic, the line will offer an array of dapper duds in boys’ sizes 2 to 20, from button-downs to chino shorts. On a more relaxed note, look for graphic tees in a range of quirky prints, from pineapples to the brand’s icon, Pete the Penguin. Preserving the integrity of the brand was a top priority for Parigi, says Sion Betesh, executive vice president of licensing and marketing at Parigi Group. Wholesale prices range from $8.50 for tees and tanks to $14.50 for shorts. Contact President of Sales Orly Goldstein at the Parigi Group at [email protected] for purchasing information. —Lauren Fusilier

Parigi partners with menswear staple Original Penguin.

Vince and Tawil Associates Inc. expand their partnership with a new baby collection.

luxe, effortless style, Vince introduced its first kids’ collection to much fanfare in Fall ’14—and now the brand is branching into baby for Spring ’15. Available in a soothing color palette of pale pink, light blue and heather gray, the line will incorporate classic Vince ele-ments, such as its signature stripes and soft, touchable fabrics like pima cotton and cashmere blends. Sizes range from newborn to 2, and retail prices range from $28 for tees and leggings to $198 for cashmere blankets.

“We took the core essence of what Vince is—understated, clean, cool and sophisticated—and interpreted it into kid-swear by using more kid-friendly fabrics and colors,” says Edward Tawil, president and CEO of Tawil Associates Inc., the

company that was tapped to produce the infant and kids’ collections. Or as Rebecca Damavandi, group president of global business development at Vince, puts it: “When you look at these products, you know they’re Vince.” —L.F.

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We are the first company in the world to donate children’s clothing one to one. As we launch our first collection be part of history in the making.

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R E S H

Fabulous frocks are the norm in ’s eponymous collection

of vintage-inspired couture clothing for kids. Launching in Spring ’15, the San Francisco-based designer infuses simple A-line and sheath dresses and ballgowns alike with a sense of youth-fulness through color, pattern and texture. Standouts include a Marie Antoinette-esque gown featuring a full hoop skirt, lacy sleeves and a high collar and a floor-length dress whose voluminous skirt is adorned with rosettes. Deftly tailored suits for boys are available, too. Sizes range from 4 to 16 and wholesale prices range from $87 to $547. Visit www.nancyvuu.com.

Despite a strong background in both womenswear and childrenswear, Sara Caterinicchia wanted to stay away from mini-me looks with the launch of her own girls’ line, Instead she chose to recreate the princess-like outfits she remem-bered from her childhood, and in Spring ’15 the Los Angeles-based line debuts its first collection of twirl-worthy special occasion dresses in sizes 2 to 6 years. Classic silhou-ettes become sweet showpieces for the modern girl in cotton, satin, organza, Swiss dot mesh, lace and tulle, awash in vibrant hues like tangerine, hot pink, mint and pris-tine white. Wholesale prices range from $42 to $50. Visit www.whoslittle.com.

After 15 years in the womenswear industry, Michelle Chaplin set out on a mission to make grown-up clothes for the not-yet-grown-up.

, which debuted in March of 2014, lives up to its mantra of simple yet sophisticated and fun but not fussy duds in Spring ’15, with a collection of harem pants, halter tops and bloom-ers for girls sizes 3-6 months to 6 years. Designed and manufactured in Los Angeles, the Coachella-ready col-lection comes in a bevy of bold prints like brush strokes, vertical stripes and retro daisies. Wholesale prices range from $11 to $39. Check out www. ultravioletkids.com.

Known for its stylish slings and com-mitment to social responsibility,

is expanding its wares to include children’s apparel in Fall ’15—the first brand in the world to offer one-for-one clothing for kids. Working in conjunction with Child Fund International, for every piece sold from the first collection, the brand will distribute one more to a child in need in West Africa. Spanning layette in sizes newborn to 2 years to cloth-ing and outerwear for kids ages 2 to 10 years, the collection features a smorgas-bord of sumptuous shades (think jewel tones for girls and muted yellows and reds for boys) and stand-out prints like graphics layered on stripes. Wholesale prices range from $8 for tees to $42 for outerwear. Go to www.rockinbaby.com.

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Over two decades after Marc Jacobs sent his landmark grunge-inspired collection down the Perry Ellis runway, California brand

is making the case for what Owner Amanda Lennon describes as “casual grunge couture” for the 2 to 12 set with its Spring ’15 debut. Referencing the early ’90s with plaid button-downs and slouchy bean-ies, the throwback collection is translated into childrenswear with super soft materials: Tees, tanks, knit hoodies, henleys and harem pants are made from a supima cotton/micro modal jersey blend, while raw edges and shark-tooth hems add a lived-in look. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $35. Visit www.lennonandwolfe.com.

For little ladies who’d like to wear their PJs all day, Canadian company

is introducing a line of daytime duds that are just as comfy as the brand’s bestselling sleep-wear. Launching in Spring ’15, the collection spans five groupings of coor-dinating tunics, dresses and capris in classic colorways like navy and white stripes with red trim, and sherbet shades of pink and lemon that can be easily dressed up or down for daytime wear. Available in sizes 2 to 10 years, wholesale prices range from $6.50 to $25. Check out www.coccoli.com.

Named after the great patrons of exploration, Queen Isabelle and King Ferdinand of Spain, sets sail on its maiden voyage this spring. The Los Angeles-based brand believes in the power of story-telling through clothes—that’s why each piece in its first American-made collection features prints designed to inspire kids to use their imagi-nation, like herds of bison thundering over comfy leg-gings, horses galloping across a super soft tee or a deep-sea diver on a cozy sweatshirt. Available in sizes 6 months to 5 years, everything is uni-sex and machine washable. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $24. Check out www.izzyandferd.com.

Warning: The debut collection from King of Prussia, PA-based girls’ brand may induce food cravings. Designed around the theme of “fun kids’ food,” there’s something here to tempt even the picki-est eater. Dresses, skirts and billowy tops in sizes 4 to 10 years are covered in cookies, donuts, apples and sushi. Elsewhere in the quirky collection, retro prints are accented with eyelet trims, oversized but-tons and heaps of tulle. Wholesale prices range from $60 to $150. Go to www.ariachildrensclothing.com.

R E S H

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The best American & international children’s brands

February 28 - March 2, 2015Metropolitan West, New York

110 BRANDSFASHION, CHILDCARE, ACCESSORIES, GIFTS, HOME & DESIGN

Organization Picaflor Inc. • E-mail [email protected] • Tel +1 212 563 7301 • FOR TRADE ONLY

www.playtimenewyork.comFEB. 28 - MARCH 02, 2015

www.playtimetokyo.comFEBRUARY 24 - 26, 2015

www.playtimeparis.comJAN.31 - FEB.02, 2015

illustration

Phili

p G

iord

ano

CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE!

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1. Jungly Tails book. 2. rattle. 3.

reversible cardigan. 4. Burp ‘N Drool set. 5.

vegan leather tote. 6. changing pad. 7. long-sleeve romper. 8. teething necklace. 9. sunglasses. 10. monkey puppet.

SafariFashion

10

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Take a trip to the wild side? It’s a must for this mom and safari fanatic, who can be found photographing wildlife in the Serengeti at least once a year. And she’s not alone: According to South African tourism reports, nearly 34 million tourists trek to sub-Saharan Africa’s national parks each year. When she’s stateside, her love of all-things-animal is on proud display, from the elephant on her daughter’s romper to her vegan faux-leather handbag. To outfit your customers for their next expedition, stock up on these mom-approved finds, all available at the NY NOW gift show, from Jan. 31 to Feb. 4. —Lauren Fusilier

1 6

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AIR TIES, HEADBANDS, bar-rettes, bobby pins—there are count-less types of girls’ hair accessories, and finding a successful way to mer-chandise them can be exhausting. One of the most common fixtures assigned to this task is the plastic or metal tree stand, like the one at

Pumpkinheads. In theory, tree stands dis-play a variety of products while providing access to necessary backstock. In practice, they are messy, inaccessible to shoppers and a nightmare to the customer who wants to look at one particular product that is hanging

must tediously pull out and then hopefully replace—though we all know the products end up in piles on the floor instead.

The main requisites for a good product fixture are that it’s visible, organized and shoppable—meaning it’s easily accessible to customers. After all, shopping should be easy. So, toss out the tree stand and say hello to the horizontal bar and the clear plastic bin.

Made in varying shapes and thicknesses, the horizontal bar is perfect for display-ing headbands or hair ties. Mounted on a wall or countertop, the bar is fixed in place at one end and remains unconnected on the other. Sales staff will love this low-mainte-nance fixture. This design allows for product to be easily slid on, evenly spaced and read-

T H EfixALL TI ED U P“We sell a lot of hair accessories! We constantly struggle to keep them tidy and organized in a way that makes sense and makes them the most shoppable. Currently we utilize a metal tree to display them, but we find that it not only limits the number of accessories we can display, but is also quite messy.

so that they look merchandised and easy to shop?”

ily accessible for passing customers to look, touch and slip their desired item over all the others and off of the end of the bar.

In addition to the horizontal bar, consider the clear plastic bin. Bins are easy to restock and organize, and more importantly, they make it easy for customers to reach right in

the checkout line at H&M. Cleverly, H&M structures the line to wind around these kinds of bins, which display all kinds of loose accessories that would otherwise be an orga-nizing nightmare. (One caveat: Keep them clear! Sticking to see-through bins means customers can easily see all the options avail-able. And if you have a series of bins, keep them color- or style-coordinated to make navigation even easier.)

Recently, Envirosell worked with a national women’s accessory chain that wanted to determine which of its new store layouts was performing better. In the first layout, the checkout line featured a row of bins containing different small accesso-ries and impulse items. In the second layout, the checkout fixture was a wide table placed a few feet away. When the data came back, there was no question which style performed better: The first layout, with its row of reach-able bins, was three times more likely to be shopped than the table in the second layout.

Another option? Give your product away.

research for a woman’s handbag and acces-sory brand that distributed small gifts (typ-ically hair accessories) to children in the store. This strategy was incredibly success-ful. Why? It made both the parents and their children very happy—and as we all know, happy shoppers are far more likely to make a purchase. Second, it established a firm base of brand-loyal customers. And finally, it ensured return visits, since the store became a shopping destination associated with pleas-ant memories for both mom and child.

After all, the margin on hair accessories is very small, but a customer’s satisfaction and

H

E-MAIL [email protected] TO BE FEATURED IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE.

is a research associate at Envirosell, a New York City-based market research firm that works with a number of Fortune 500 companies in sectors ranging from fashion to technology.

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With their easily adjustable pouch, multiple carrying positions, and lightweight design,

Hotslings are guaranteed to outsell any competitor’s brand—or we’ll buy your stock back!






HE SKIES OPENED for rain gear in 2014, as overall sales of rain boots and galoshes swelled substantially in September, growing to $3.1 million from $2.5 million the year before, according to the NPD Group. “The rain boot business in the kids’ market has leapfrogged off the adult market where rain boots are now seen as a legitimate fashion accessory,” explains NPD’s chief industry analyst, Marshal Cohen, point-

ing to the volatile weather of the past year as another reason for the storming sales figures. “Consumers recognize that they can’t keep making do with what they have just to pass through.”

And it’s not just functional footwear that’s enjoying a surge. Retailers report a steady rise in sales of raincoats, too, spurred on by inclement conditions across the country. “Our rainwear sales exceeded expectations in 2014,” states Kristina Perone Teague, co-owner of Vann & Liv, a Greenville, SC-based store whose bestsellers include Oil & Water for girls and K-Way for boys, adding that the recent evolution of styles from functional items to fashionable accessories has helped. Jennifer Bossick, co-owner of TinySoles, an online children’s boutique, agrees. “The consumer is aware that more style choices have become available, and it makes it easier for everyday wear beyond just wet weather,” she says.

Looking to help your customers battle the elements in 2015? Here, experts offer advice on making a splash in the category.

While most kids’ stores tend to focus more on girls than boys in accessories categories like swimwear and shoes, rainwear offers an equal opportunity, Bossick says. “Both boys and girls need a good set of rain gear,” she states, advising retailers to carry an even assortment for both. That’s why Canadian apparel company Hatley, known for its PVC-free rain gear, introduces seven new prints each every season. “If it’s raining, everyone out there—boys and girls—needs a coat,” quips President Chris Oldland.

Rob Moehring, CEO of Washington Shoe Company, makers of Western Chief, seconds this notion, noting that while character licenses like Batman, Spiderman and Hello Kitty continue to be the core of his kids’ rainwear business, prints have become increasingly popular for both genders. “Boys love monster trucks, sharks and dinosaurs, while for girls it’s always girly prints like butterflies and polka dots,” he says.

Just because the sky is cloudy and gray doesn’t mean your assortment should be. Attention-grabbing color combos and fresh prints always ring the register, says Senny Powell, owner of Island Child, a 30-plus-year-old childrenswear store on

class

As consumers increasingly snap up waterproof wares, retailers and manufacturers offer tips to soak up sales.

>42

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On Trend

dress

head wrap

An array of womenswear designers like Thom Browne and Carolina Herrera flexed their green thumbs on Spring ’15 runways, so it’s no surprise that a refreshing new take on tried-and-true floral-print is taking root in kidswear, too. Next year, bold brushstrokes bring botanical gardens to life on an array of little girls’ dresses, shirts and skirts. With patterns reminiscent of Claude Monet’s water lilies and Vincent van Gogh’s sunflowers, flowers for spring are anything but boring. Add bold, blown-up shapes and a brooding color palette, and the print makes a perfect canvas for fall styles, too. –Tara Anne Dalbow

dress

dress

T-shirt

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2 3

dress

skirt

dress

dress

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On Trend

Once a mainstay of Grateful Dead fans and summer campers, tie-dye is mak-ing a modern come back. Updated in an array of muted colors and ombré-inspired patterns, this psychedelic staple gives boys’ and girls’ styles a whole new groove. Borrowing inspira-tion from dip-dyed women’s resort looks in 2015—from chiffon skirts at Alexander Wang to flared trousers at Michael Kors—children’s designers are adding eye-catching swirls and subtle color fades to button-downs, blankets and board shorts. With the power to elevate casual duds and bestow formal silhouettes with an extra oomph of cool, we recommend dipping into this season’s twisted trend. —T.A.D.

dress

top

button-down

instant ink tattoos

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A WARM AND WONDERFUL THANK YOU FROM ENK,CHILDREN’S CLUB AND SO MANY IN THE CHILDREN’S WEAR INDUSTRY WHO HONOR YOUR UNPARALLELED COMMITMENT & DEDICATION OVER THE PAST 35 YEARS.

STANLEY KAYE

THE ENKaye FAMILY

YEARS

WE SALUTE THE AWESOME AND STEADY FORCE OF YOUR PRESENCE + THE WISDOM IN YOUR GUIDANCE.


2 6

[ ]

How top-notch customer service and Scandinavian sensibility put Polarn O. Pyret on the map with American parents. By Audrey Goodson Kingo

FROM IKEA TO H&M, there’s just something about Swedish goods that American shoppers can’t resist—and kids’ clothing seems to be no exception, thanks to the rise of Polarn O. Pyret. Already the bestselling children’s brand in Sweden, the label

baby basics. And with more stores on the horizon,

classic threads will undoubtedly be clothing more kiddos in the years to come.

One big reason for the brand’s American expan

can be found greeting customers at Polarn’s >45

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Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products

Your Snapshot to Style in 2015Children’s World is not only open during all Atlanta Apparel Markets, but Gift & Home Furnishings Markets too! Make sure to mark your calendar so you’re always ready for every season and every style.

AmericasMart.com/ChildrensWorld | 800.ATL.MART | ©2015 AMC, Inc.

children’s world

2015 DATES

The Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market® January 6 – 13

January Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel January 29 – February 2

March Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel March 19 – 23

June Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel June 11 – 14

The Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market® July 7 – 14

August Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel August 6 – 10

October Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel October 15 – 19

MARK YOUR CALENDAR TODAY!2015


2 8

IF YOU WANT to find Isaac Ash away from his desk, try staking out the shops near his company’s Manhattan office. The multi-tasking CEO often spends his free time scoping out stores in search of emerging trends. “I’m always in the market looking for what’s new, what’s hot or what’s missing,” he asserts. That is, when he’s not hopping around the globe, inspecting samples at the company’s factories in China, Vietnam, Egypt and Central and South America.

Such is the life of the leader of a global legwear and bodywear

company—one that’s grown from two employees when it

jumped at the chance to meet with the president of Puma’s -

tioned the company was searching for a new sock licensee. Next thing he knew, Ash was making men’s, women’s and kids’ socks for the storied sports brand.

Puma laid the groundwork for the company’s future deals, which now include licensing partnerships with Skechers, Happy Socks, Bread & Boxers, Weatherproof, Tretorn,

-

venture structure, to reflect the two companies’ “alignment of goals, trust, and a seamless working relationship,” Ash explains. It was just another step in a growing partnership that would eventually lead to Ash’s latest endeavor: children’s apparel.

“Puma has been a great partner. And I’m really grateful for the trust

put their faith in me to deliver best-in-class children’s apparel, and

Q&A

>48

BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

PHO

TO: D

OR

OTH

Y H

ON

G

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Whitney a. Doug las showroom

The 2015 Midwest Tour

Located in the Chicago Merchandise Mart, Whitney a. Douglas Showroom sells wholesale clothing & accessories for baby & kid brands: Mayoral Little Joules Kapital K Mustard Pie Jak & Pepper Globaltex Go Gently Baby

Gossip Girl & Hula Star Tadpole & Lilly Jacadi Fragrance Penny Candy

To make an appointment for your local market:P 312.644.2040 E [email protected]

www.wdshowroom.com

STYLEMAX-CHICAGO KIDSJanuary 31 - February 2

OHIO MARKETFebruary 7 - 9

DEERFIELD KIDS SHOWFebruary 14 - 17

MICHIGAN MARKETMarch 8 - 10

STYLEMAX-CHICAGO KIDSMarch 21 - 24

NORTHSTAR FASHION EXHIBITORSMarch 30 - April 1

INDY MARKETMarch 12 + 13


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raincoat, T-shirt over dress,

sunglasses, boots, headband.

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raincoat, leggings, tee and hat,

rain boots.

Opposite page: yellow jacket,

windbreaker and T-shirt, sweatpants, rain boots.


raincoat over jacket,

T-shirt, plaid pants, crown, model’s own socks,

sneakers.

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faux fur coat, blouse,

harem pants, sunglasses, hair

bow, rain boots; Magnific

raincoat, sweatshirt over

dress, sunglasses, barette,

rain boots.


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jacket, shorts

and sweatshirt, scarf,

hat; Magnificraincoat,

T-shirt and pants, scarf.

Opposite page: jacket,

button-down,

sweatpants, necklace and crown,

boots.


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puffer coat, T-shirt, hat with crown.

Opposite page: coat, blouse

and leggings, skirt, barette, socks by

, sneakers; pink jacket and fish-print

pants, headband, T-shirt, scalloped

socks, sneakers.

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Stylist: Julie Brooke Wiliams Prop Stylist: Cecilia Elguero/Kate RyanHair & Makeup: Jason Murillo/Kate Ryan


HIS FEBRUARY, LIZ Bourgeois and her crew will hit the road. The founder and designer behind Team Chipmunk, an Ohio-based chil-dren’s brand that made its trade show debut at October’s ENK

Children’s Club, Bourgeois developed an uncon-ventional plan for wooing retailers: Greet them in person. “I find that a smile, a handshake and a real, personal meeting makes everyone feel better about the relationship we’re forming,” Bourgeois says of the trip, which includes hosting trunk shows with the brand’s current retailers in Nashville and Dallas, and then stopping by boutiques in untapped markets, like Louisville and Memphis.

Hitting the pavement is nothing new for Team Chipmunk—the brand debuted at the Renegade Craft Fair in New York City in 2009, back when Bourgeois was a one-woman shop making one-off garments using recycled and vintage fabrics. When requests for more began rolling in, she set up an e-commerce site—one that’s been instrumental in mapping stops for her upcoming expedition by analyzing where Team Chipmunk sees its strongest sales. For example, the brand’s timeless style is par-ticularly popular in the south and on the coasts, so Bourgeois has scheduled a second trip later in the year to visit the Carolinas, Georgia and Florida.

But just because Bourgeois is looking to ramp up Team Chipmunk’s retail presence, don’t expect the

brand to abandon its handcrafted, earth-friendly ethos. All of its woven garments are made in the U.S.A. by a team of 12 seamstresses living in the Columbus, OH, area, and currently, the company is searching for a Pennsylvania factory to produce the brand’s jersey garments. By using recycled and vin-tage fabrics, Bourgeois points out, Team Chipmunk is able to maintain a carbon footprint at less than 10 percent of a typical childrenswear company. “I wanted to create a brand that proved sustainable fashion could be incredibly adorable,” she explains.

Bourgeois’ commitment to retro styling is no surprise given her history: For 15 years, she worked as a film and theater costume designer, often using vintage textiles in her creations. She also became enamored with the old-world silhouettes and tailor-ing of earlier eras—that’s why details like pin-tucking and pleats can be found throughout every Team Chipmunk collection. Fabrics like gingham, seer-sucker, embroidered eyelet and Swiss dots also lend a classic touch to the line, which is available for boys and girls in sizes 3 months (for rompers) to 10/12 (for girls’ T-shirt dresses). Wholesale prices range from $7.50 to $58.

Although Team Chipmunk is big on timeless style, its constant roster of new fabrics infuse freshness, Bourgeois notes, pointing to a bold, Venice canal-themed print for Spring ’15. “Each season brings a new palette of solid colors, classic patterns, and experimental prints,” she promises. —

Team Chipmunk takes its sustainable, American-

made wares on a retailer meet-and-greet.

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4 1

IKE MANY WHO move to the Big Apple, Lula Aldunate came

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Global fabrics and old world styling merge in Lulaland’s eclectic new collection.

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Hilton Head Island in South Carolina. As such, her 3,400-square-foot store does well with traditional yellow and navy for boys and pink and raspberry for girls. “Classic colors are seasonless,” agrees Oldland, add-ing that kids tend to steer their parents’ purse strings towards prints. The same goes for accessories, says Blair Everett, president of toy manufacturer Babalu, which expanded its wares to include umbrellas four years ago. “A child is going to select an umbrella for the graphics, not for the fact that it keeps them dry,” he says.

Retailers and manufacturers alike say carrying several different brands and styles gives customers a variety of price points to choose from. Bossick, for example, carries rain boots ranging from $38 to $54 from Hatley, Kamik and Keen, and Hatley raincoats from $48 to $64. “Carry a variety, but pick a boys’ and girls’ style you can always keep in stock,” she advises, adding, “Once customers know they can get it from you, make sure they can always find something in their size.”

Stocking an eclectic assortment is crucial to keep customers coming back for more, too, especially as the category continues to expand into more stylish silhouettes. “Look for a variety of different taste levels and price points that mix well with the price points of the clothing you have in the store,” says Amy Wismar, founder of Oil & Water, whose range of fashion-forward rainy day outerwear for girls is adding a boys’ line in Fall ’15.

Beyond a wide selection of styles, price is key. “Don’t overprice it and you’ll do well,” Cohen says.

Maggie Chafen, owner of Dottie Doolittle, a high-end childrenswear boutique in San Francisco, recommends retailers look for raincoats that serve a double purpose: styles that combine rain protection with fashion-forward silhouettes and appear appropriate no matter the weather. “Consumers care about how much things cost and the service-ability of products and so I think if you can find good coats that have a double duty, you will do well,” she offers. Powell echoes this, noting the reason she saw a jump in her rainwear sales this year is down to the fact that she started carrying more styles that merge fashion with func-tion. “My customer wants something that sets them apart,” she adds.

And it helps to merchandise versatile pieces with the rest of your store’s offering. “Don’t put it in the back on its own. Coordinate it with outfits,” Wismar advises. “Kids are wearing raincoats as outerwear and wellies instead of boots. Rain gear has become part of the everyday, not just for rain.”

While “April showers” is an old phrase that sticks, it’s not the only selling season when it comes to rainwear. In fact, experts agree that it’s a year-round business. “And the blessing is that it never has to go

continued from page 20class


on sale!” Powell laughs, noting that she even sells rain boots when it’s 90 degrees and sunny. “Here on Hilton Head Island, kids wear rain boots on the beach and the playground when the sun is shining.”

Moehring points out that rubber boots are part of most summer camps’ checklists. “Consumers forget that kids wear these rain boots in the summertime, too,” he says. Oldland agrees, adding that it’s the same for back-to-school. “A lot of schools send checklists to parents at the end of July about required items for the upcoming year, and rain gear is on that list,” he says.

“Retailers used to buy raincoats for spring and wouldn’t offer them in the fall but now a lot are realizing that if they won’t offer raincoats year-round, they’re not going to develop the clientele that shops for them year-round,” says Mindy Medvin, national sales manager for Magnificent Baby, which introduced raincoats in Spring ’14. Everett agrees: “You have to show the consumer the need to purchase this item before it rains. They need to want to own this product before they need to use it.” And as Oldland puts it, “There’s always a reason to buy rain gear. And if consumers don’t think you have it, they won’t check you out.”

Retailers recommend having a dedi-cated rainwear display year-round. “Creating a collection in the store and putting raincoats, umbrellas and rain boots together helps sell rain gear,” Perone Teague shares, noting that she merchandises her rainwear section by brand and by type to offer shoppers a full overview.

“You have to merchandise it as though you believe in it,” Medvin echoes, adding, “You have to carry an assort-ment of product that tells the consumer you’re not just selling raincoats but rain gear.” She says that retailers who set up little vignettes within their stores showcasing coats, boots, umbrellas, even little books centered around rain have a better shot at selling the items. This is where brands that offer coordinating raincoats, rain boots and umbrellas shine. “We don’t always find that customers buy the matching sets but I think it makes it very easy to merchandise and makes a really cute collection,” notes Tasha Skupinski, international marketing manager for British brand Joules. (Today, 40 percent of Joules’ U.S. business is focused on boots, with overall sales expected to double in 2015.)

Moehring, meanwhile, hates to see rain boots buried in boxes. “Colorful rain boots are naturally attractive items. If they’re not seen,

“Kids are wearing raincoats as outerwear and wellies

instead of boots. Rain gear has become a part of the

everyday, not just for rain.”

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they won’t sell,” he says. That goes for apparel, too, Oldland notes. “A lot of retailers leave rain gear on a rack on the floor, and consumers have to search for it. Take if off the floor and put it on the wall. That especially goes for places where it doesn’t rain much, as it’s abso-lutely crucial to give pride of place in the store so everyone knows you have it,” he says.

“Windows are a great way to sell without words,” Powell states. That’s why she recommends an enticing window chock full of attention-grabbing styles during peak rainy months. (Those would be mainly in the fall and spring, according to the experts.) “As retailers, we should put our best efforts into the face we put forward to the public when we are not open. It will draw customers in,” she says.

Oldland seconds that sug-gestion. “During peak seasons when rain gear should be out, retailers should have it in the window, umbrella opened up, rain coat on a mannequin or a T-stand with the sleeves rolled up to show that there’s a print on the inside if there is one,” he sug-gests. Because, as Everett points out, “The only time a consumer is looking for an umbrella is when it’s raining. Show shoppers that you have what they need.”

“From a distance, all rain gear looks the same,” Oldland says, and the deluge of print-happy options on the market means that many consumers will pick up an eye-catching item without first checking if it’s weatherproof. “You can’t hope that it’s going to hold up in the rain. It has to,” he says. That’s why product knowledge is key when it comes to selling rainwear and keeping customers happy—and coming back for more. “Take a few minutes to understand why the raincoat you’re selling is worth what you’re charging,” he notes.

Skupinski echoes this sentiment, adding that she always stresses the importance of hangtags to her retail partners. “So many retailers cut these off, but they contain important information on the products’ technical elements,” she says. “Not every raincoat is waterproof so it’s important that consumers know the styles you carry are.” Moehring agrees, explaining that Western Chief’s neoprene boots, for example, are good down to -20 degrees Fahrenheit and retailers should pass that fact on to shoppers. “Parents need to know that certain styles offer both waterproof protection and the warmth factor. It stretches

class

“Take a few minutes to understand

why the raincoat

you’re selling is worth

what you’re charging.”


“We want our customers

to have a reason to come in,

especially in the city.

On rainy days, hot days or

cold days, you need

somewhere to go.”

4 5

continued from page 26[ ]

Jan Children’s Club-Booth 3333Atlanta Gift Show- Booth 3-200

NY Now- Booth 7131

Come See What’s New

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crafts. That friendly atmosphere is integral to the brand, she adds, recalling a recent evening when a father, carrying a coffee mug, came to the store with his children in their pajamas. The kids played with the store’s train set—a fixture that can be found in every one of Polarn’s U.S. shops—until they tuckered out. “We want our customers to have a reason to come in, especially in the city. On rainy days, hot days or cold days, you need somewhere to go,” she points out.

Welcoming atmosphere aside, customers undoubtedly come for the label’s signature style, too, which combines Scandinavian charm with high-quality construction. (Retail prices range from $6.99 for hair accessories to just over $200 for snowsuits.) Reflecting its Nordic roots, Polarn’s outerwear is a particularly popular portion of the collection, Athanason adds, thanks to thoughtful details like reflective piping and zipper pulls. All jackets are windproof, and all snow gear is waterproof, too. And several of the brand’s coats come with the option to snap on a removable fleece jacket, creating what she dubs a “365-days-a-year solution” for staying warm.

Other bestselling collections include Polarn’s gender-neutral Best Basics—tees, tanks, leggings and accessories in stripes and solid versions of red, white and navy. “The brand believes a lot in unisex,” Athanason asserts. “The designers in Sweden realized that little girls’ bodies and little boys’ bodies don’t really change until around 7 or 8.” Accordingly, every Polarn store features girls’ attire on one side, boys on the other and a sizable col-lection of unisex looks in the middle, which comprises approximately 30 percent of the company’s offerings. “That’s a Swedish philosophy, and one that’s really resonated well in

the states. Every year, we see more parents are into it.”Also on the upswing with American parents? “Our brand has a lot

of options for parents of kids with sensory disorders. There really is a market for comfortable, functional clothes,” Athanason notes, point-ing to Polarn’s flatlock anti-chafe seams and non-binding pants with adjustable waists, as well as its super-soft Merino wool collection, which has been a surprising year-round bestseller. “Parents are so busy in the morning. The last thing you want is a kid who doesn’t want to wear something because it’s uncomfortable,” she continues. And that

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ease of wear is matched by the brand’s ease of care—no dry cleaning or ironing required, even for ski gear and outerwear.

In the beginning, however, predicting what U.S. shoppers would love wasn’t always easy, Athanason admits—even with Polarn’s experience in the e-commerce realm. “With no customer history, it is very challenging to open your doors for the first time in a brick-and-mortar storefront,” she acknowledges. “Online is a little easier because you don’t need to buy the stock so deep, but in a store you cannot have skimpy face-outs or bare shelves! We had a lot of assis-tance and support from Sweden planning our initial buy, but there were definitely some misses, as the American customers don’t live and shop exactly like our Swedish customers,” she continues, adding, “It was not always a case of buying too much either. Some items that have become key staples for our American consumers we bought too light in the beginning, like Merino wool and rain pants.”

On the other hand, web-savvy retailers like Polarn boast big advan-tages—primarily the ability to perfect the omni-channel format and help shoppers at an array of purchase points. “Customers don’t want to hear in the stores that our web business is a separate business and their purchase history can’t be brought up, or they can’t make a return or they can’t bring their web purchases into our stores to be

gift wrapped,” she explains. “Customers want our brand—and really all brands—to recognize, value and under-stand their interactions and touch points. We can do this because it has been second nature to our management team since we started. We study our customer behav-ior, and when we see that a customer has shopped at one of our stores, on our website and at Amazon, it’s high-fives all the way around at our office.”

And soon, Polarn’s custom-ers may have an opportunity to pick up the Swedish threads at even more locations: After a test run with Nordstrom, the brand is branching into the wholesale sphere and look-

ing for retailers—particularly regional chains and small department stores—that may be interested in stocking its Best Basics collection. After all, Athanason is no stranger to the concept of collaboration: Polarn’s brick-and-mortar stores have played host to shop-in-shops for the likes of Freshly Picked, and the brand regularly collaborates with companies like Stokke, Baby Bjorn, See Kai Run, Planet Box and Weleda on marketing materials, giveaways and sweepstakes. By combining social media efforts and, in some cases sharing e-mail lists, the partnerships allow both brands to maximize their marketing efforts. “We’re always into collaborations like that. Our staff really enjoys it, and our customers really like it. It’s a win-win,” she adds.

Fittingly, Athanason has employed that collaborative approach since her very first get-together with Polarn’s CEO. As she sums it

“When we see that a customer has shopped at

one of our stores, on our websiteand at Amazon,

it’s high-fives all around at our office.”

er_01_block_05.indd 47 12/18/14 4:46 PM

we’re excited about it,” Ash says. Beginning with Spring ’15, United Legwear will design, manufac-ture and distribute kids’ apparel for Puma. (Retail prices range from $18 for T-shirts to $48 for hoodies, and will be available at department and specialty stores, sporting goods and specialty sporting goods stores and select online retailers.) It’s totally new territory for the company, Ash admits. But it’s territory he’s well prepared to explore, thanks to a new apparel team Ash describes as the “best in the market.” To reflect the new category, the company is even getting a name adjustment, to United Legwear & Apparel Company.

Does that mean apparel will be a big category for the company going forward? First things first, Ash says, and that’s creating a Puma kids’ collec-tion that rivals other industry leaders, like Nike, Under Armour and Adidas. And, Ash assures, the company will always stay true to its roots, creating the best legwear and underwear possible for its impressive roster of brands.

After all, socks are in his blood. Ash learned the ropes of the legwear business beginning at the age of 18, selling socks door-to-door for the family business, Ash Hosiery. Under the tutelage of his grandfather, father and uncle, he absorbed some of the philosophies that still guide him today, namely honesty, integrity and a commitment to

quality—what Ash describes as “being true” to the brands he represents and the retailers who make it possible.

“I’ll never forget the day I made a sale for 90 cents a piece,” Ash recalled, the last time he chatted with

in September of 2010. “The line sheet said $1.10, but I thought [the reduced price was justified because] I got double the quantity. My grandfather said, ‘But you gave the goods away! Are you a salesman or an order taker?’” The key, his grandfather explained, is to convince your customer why the product is worth the price. “I learned to put the money into the product and ask for [the full price] rather than take the money out and try to do the volume,” he continues.

It’s a lesson that’s served the savvy CEO well. In a market where many fashion companies have been tempted to race to the bottom in terms of pric-ing—often at the expense of their brand’s quality and reputation—United Legwear has bucked the trend. Now, with a portfolio that includes 10 very different brands, the one thing that has remained the same, no matter the label, is Ash’s commitment to quality. And that’s why, he adds, his company has held on to prestige partners like Puma for so long.

“Puma can be proud of the product we put out, no matter the distribution level or retailer—whether it’s a $22 single sock or a $9.99 six-pair pack.”

Depends on whether I’m training, boxing, or out in the city, but right now I’m into Sam Smith, Pharrell, Calvin Harris, Rihanna—anything with soul and high energy.

St. Tropez in July.

Saturday Night Fever.

Comp and aspirational store shop-ping. Even in my personal time, I’m always multi-tasking.

I S A A C A S HUP CLOSE WITH

continued from page 28

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er_01_15_Q&A_02.indd 48 12/19/14 12:18 PM

You’ve been making socks for Puma for 15 years. How did the partnership come about?I started United Legwear Company in August of ’98, and in early ’99, a friend said, ‘I know a guy from Puma.’ I didn’t know what Puma was—I was born in 1970, and no one used Google back then. I had to look into it a little bit. I was already overseas in Korea [working on infant, toddler and kids’ socks for Target], so I asked my graphic designer to send me some designs. I was 28 years old at the time, and I only had two employees. So my graphic designer sent me the designs via e-mail, and I stayed an extra week in Korea to make sure the samples were done properly. I brought them home myself. I took the red eye and landed at 6 in the morning, and I had a 1 p.m. appointment with the president of Puma, Jay Piccola. I showed him six designs—not a whole litany of product. He said, ‘This is what we need.’ Other people were showing him heavy gauge and thick wool and hiking socks. I stayed in Korea and made sure my samples were perfect—we went through two or three iterations in the factory—and I came home to a meeting. And a double espresso. I don’t think he got a word in edgewise. [Laughs.]

Why do you think he would say ULAC has been a good partner to Puma?We have a passion and the energy for what we do, and—this is the key at United Legwear—the ability to translate the brand identity into legwear. If you got Jay [Piccola] on the phone now, I think he would say it’s our ability to translate Puma’s brand identity into legwear, and it’s not easy. And now he’s asked us to make children’s apparel a meaningful business for Puma like we do for socks and underwear.

Why did you feel like now, in particular, was a good time for ULAC to branch into kids’ apparel?I didn’t. It was something that fell into my lap after Puma tried two or three other avenues. In the legwear arena, we have been Puma’s trusted and proven partner for over 15 years. And they knew our systems, and they’re comfortable with my executive staff. And it’s really a scalable business for me.

Did you always have a long-term vision to move into apparel?Absolutely not! When I started, I focused on my core business and being the best in the legwear space. As ULAC grew, other categories arose, so I leveraged my business platform and optimized each oppor-tunity. Some children’s apparel manufacturers have made socks part of their business model in the last five or 10 years, so why not a sock company making children’s clothing?

The last time you chatted with Earnshaw’s, you mentioned that learning the ropes of overseas sourcing was one of the biggest early challenges. Would you say the same for apparel? It’s definitely a different animal. I wasn’t used to the manual and physical labor processes for apparel, compared to the sock business, which is capital intensive and run by machines that are $30,000 to $50,000 each. It’s a big difference, and I really had to wrap my arms around the process. Apparel doesn’t have the same speed to market as legwear, with machines running all night long. It’s much more labor intensive rather than capital intensive. And with apparel, so many of the components have different makers. You have the zip-per supplier, and you’ve got the trimming supplier, and they’re not always at factory. You’re bringing together multiple components to assemble the goods, so there’s a lot of room for error there, too. It’s

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interesting, but I know it’s well worth it because at the end of the day, I would rather invest in my own company than real estate or other external entities I can’t control.

And it’s an investment that may pay off with more apparel part-nerships down the road.Most definitely. Since this deal, people have come to us with other opportunities, but I’ve committed to Puma, and I’m going to really make this work and use this as a model for future apparel partnerships, just like I did with Puma legwear. There’s no rush. I want to get it right, and get the model down, and then we can build off that. However, I am going to be looking for other apparel brands down the road and build a portfolio that makes sense for ULAC.

Speaking of building a portfolio, how do you know what makes a brand a good fit for your company?It’s really a mix of things, but at the end of the day it comes down to a gut feeling. First, I look at the white space—what we don’t have. I wouldn’t take another sports brand, because I have one of the top three sports brands in the industry with Puma. I have one of the biggest sports/lifestyle brands in Skechers. I have a fun brand like Happy Socks. So I wouldn’t take any brands in those arenas. What makes sense to me is something that really rounds out my portfolio. In the legwear world, for example, I knew that the outdoor category was underserved. Right now, outdoor as a fashion category is very hot, and cold weather socks are really important in the market. So last year we picked up the license for Weatherproof, and that’s been a great success for us. There’s really no formula [for finding new partnerships]. It’s a mixture of business

strategy, market needs and balancing our brand portfolio.

From Skechers to Jonathan Adler, ULAC is currently making legwear and underwear for 10 different brands. How do you keep each brand distinct? We separate every brand in a couple different ways. Internally, we have a sport group, a fashion group and a private label group. And within those categories, we have silos that work on each brand, so there’s a Puma team, a Happy Socks team and an Adrienne Vittadini team, for example. We have different groups and silos within the organization that focus on maintaining continuity and consistency for each brand. And they’re always looking for fresh new ideas. The fashion team, for example, goes to Japan every year. We share that information across teams, but every brand has its own dedicated staff, from brand manag-ers to graphic designers to production experts.

How would you describe your team’s relationship with Puma headquarters?We work closely with them. Our design team works hand in hand with their design team. We’re up in Boston all the time, and they’re down here. That’s how we have always worked, even with Puma’s socks and underwear, so it was a natural progression. We worked hard to make sure the kids’ apparel looks seamless with Puma’s other offerings. Many pieces in the collection are a takedown of prints, patterns and colors found in the adult apparel collections. For Spring ’15, for example, many of the kids’ pieces are neon bright with splashes of black, white or gray, made with performance fabrics in fashion-forward silhouettes. They have a sleek look that reflects Puma’s new global mantra: ‘Forever Faster.’

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What would you say ULAC contributes to Puma’s kids’ apparel that has been missing in previous seasons?I can tell you this: It’s time that Puma had children’s apparel to the levels of Nike, Under Armour and Adidas. Puma’s socks rival the three big brands, and now the apparel can rival them, too. What I can do for a brand, however big or small, is create top-quality, well-designed and aspirational product. I won’t make a sock that I won’t wear myself, and I won’t make children’s apparel that I wouldn’t put on my own kids.

How big of a team did the new apparel effort require?Right now, we have hired about 20 people, from the executive level down to freelancers. We’ve recruited best-in-class executives from the kids’ space. We’re going into this business with eyes wide open and well-educated about the kids’ apparel segment. I’m learning the business daily, but I’ve hired experts in the field. And that’s another key: What I know is what I know. What I don’t know, I go out and get the best people, and I let them lead the way, with me riding shotgun. We’ve got the best in the market, from our production person to our lead designer to our senior vice president of sales.

What do you look for in an employee?Two things: First, obviously, is experience and knowledge in the category. Second is chemistry—if they would get along and fit into the ULAC chemistry. We have a very good chemistry and corporate vibe here, and there’s nothing more important. A harmonious office creates beautiful product.

So true! Beautiful product is also easier to sell. But I’m sure apparel requires an entirely different retail strategy compared to legwear. Were there any challenges at first?Absolutely not. We didn’t have any challenges; it was just newness. It was foreign to me personally. But, there was no resistance from the factory level or the retail level, and that’s due to the strength of the Puma brand. It’s on a tremendous resurgence. Thanks to Puma’s new multi-million dollar ad campaign, and all of its new sports and entertainment endorsements, the brand is back and has the vibe of the late ’90s again, when it had its first resurgence. Any challenges we had were easily overcome because we were going in with a world-renowned brand. It’s authentic heritage. There’s only one Puma. But we don’t rest on those laurels. We’re still going to put out the best children’s apparel ever seen. And once retailers saw the product, any roadblocks that we had were overcome.

Which personal attributes would you say have served you best in the business world?I am very entrepreneurial, and I come into work every day with a passion and energy that reverberates throughout the company. It shows in every employee we have. Every employee also knows that I have tremendous sweat equity in what we have here—about how I started the company with two employees in 1998 and today we have 200 employees worldwide. This is a global legwear and apparel company that operates very organically, with passion and energy every day.

If not for the family business, where do you think you would be working today? Still leading a global enterprise?

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5 2

Big Hero 6

HETHER HE’S ROCKING a blazer over a jumpsuit or a pair of bright patterned leggings with a henley and a beanie, there is no doubt that Ryan Secret—and yes, that is his real name—is one stylish 3-year-

old. Star of a namesake blog and an Instagram

began amassing his many fans after Mom and professional photographer Sandra Rodriguez started snapping “dressed up photos” of him a year ago, combining her love for photography, fashion and her children. Rodriguez describes Ryan’s style as clean and edgy—an aesthetic per-fectly epitomized by his slick “undercut” hair-style and his signature accessories: a scarf and some shades.

Though Rodriguez still puts together his out-fits, Ryan is already showing signs of becoming a dapper dresser in his own right. He asks “to go cheese” when he’s ready for a photo op and often comes up with his own poses in front of the cam-era. “He’s a natural,” says Rodriguez. Ryan will wear just about anything, she adds, but he’s hap-piest sporting T-shirts and shorts—the standard uniform in his hometown of Orlando, FL. That is, unless he’s allowed to wear his all-time favor-ite: his Superman costume.

When Ryan isn’t working the camera, he can be found playing soccer or basketball outside or hanging out with his mom, dad and older sister, chatting in both English and Slovenian—his mom’s native tongue. Or, adding to his extensive shoe collection. “He loves shoes. Especially his leopard print loafers [from Love Mummahh],” Rodriguez confesses. As Ryan says, “I have more shoes than my mommy!”

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Three-year-old Instagram star Ryan Secret has better style than most men.

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CLUB CHILDREN’STHE

New York City Jan. 11th – 13th

KIDS SHOWBally’s Las Vegas Feb. 16th – 18th


Earnshaw's | January 2015

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Transcript of Earnshaw's | January 2015