SEPTEMBER 2017年9月號

DIANA’SLONDON

HOW THE CITY OF A PRINCESSCHANGED FOREVER

倫敦倩影戴安娜佇足過的城市變化萬千

MOGANSHAN 蘇黎世40

DISCOVERY SEPTEMBER 2017

H O W T OM A K E I T I N P A R I S在巴黎自製奢侈體驗

You can buy luxury brands anywhere in the world. But in Paris, you

can go behind the scenes and learn the craft for yourself.

By FRANCESCA FEARON

你可以在全球各地選購各式名牌奢侈品，但是在巴黎，你更可以走進製作這些

精品的工作室，親自學習這些舉世聞名的工藝。撰文：Francesca Fearon

T he phrase ‘experiential luxury’ only came into being a couple of years ago, but it’s already evolved into a multibillion-dollar industry.

According to Boston Consulting Group’s Metroluxe: Countering Complexity in the Business of Luxury 2017 report, €522 billion (HK$4.7 trillion) was spent worldwide in 2015 on ‘experiential luxury’ – buying experiences rather than products. In Asia, this trend has taken a while to anchor itself: a 2014 report by the same group said that 29 per cent of Chinese consumers wanted to spend on ‘enriching experiences’ rather than luxury goods (compared to 51 per cent of American consumers).

In Paris, this has led to big business. Its streets and squares (Avenue Montaigne for couture, Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix for jewellery, Place de la Concorde

for gilded hotels) are already home to the world’s leading luxury brands, and the city’s ateliers and maisons are waking up to the value of brand experiences that go beyond simply buying a product and taking it home wrapped in tissue paper.

It’s happened in the form of brand-sponsored museums and galleries. In 2014, Louis Vuitton opened its Frank Gehry-designed Fondation arts centre in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, home to a rotating modern art collection, public events and talks. The LVMH-sponsored Fondation followed jeweller Cartier, which moved its own Fondation from Versailles to Montparnasse in 1994. The glass-edged museum, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, has hosted works from a diverse range of contemporary artists including Congolese

新詞語「體驗式奢侈品」一詞出現不過 數年，仍是相當新穎的事物，可是卻已演變成價值數十億

美元的產業。諮詢機構Boston Consulting Group

在2017年的報告〈Metroluxe: Countering Complexity in the Business of Luxury〉中指出，2015年全球花費在「體驗式奢侈 品」的金額達到5,220億歐元（47,000億港元），這筆巨額金錢並非用於購買產品而是體驗。此趨勢在亞洲可能還需要發展一段時間，才能蔚為風氣；根據該機構在2014年的報告顯示，中國消費者當中有29%希望花費在「獲得更豐富的體驗」而不是購買奢侈品上面，相較之下，美國消費者在這方面則佔了51%。

這種趨勢在巴黎帶動了龐大的商業契機。多個全球頂級的奢侈品牌早就落戶巴黎，例如蒙田大道上雲集的高級時裝店、芳登廣場與和平街上林立的珠寶精品店，以及協和廣場上櫛比鱗次的豪華酒店等，令這個城市的工藝坊及品牌開始意識到，品牌體驗的價值，遠不止於在店內購買一件產品，然後讓店員以薄薄的襯紙包裹後帶回家。

於是開始有品牌贊助的博物館及藝廊出現。2014年，路易威登在巴黎布洛涅森林興建了由Frank Gehry設計的基金會大樓兼藝術中心，經常舉辦現代藝術展覽、公開活動及講座等。早在這個LVMH贊助的基金會成立之前，珠寶品牌卡地亞已於1994年將其當代藝術基金會從凡爾賽遷至蒙帕納斯。這幢玻璃帷幕博物館由普利茲克建築 Ph

otos

. Em

broi

dery

det

ail;

clas

sroo

m: H

ratc

h A

rbac

h. T

ools

: Ann

e Co

mba

z

巴黎工藝學校 PARIS CRAFT SCHOOLS 41

H O W T OM A K E I T I N P A R I S在巴黎自製奢侈體驗

painter Chéri Samba and Japanese sculptor Tatsuo Miyajima.

This growing trend of ‘experiential luxury’ has also spawned a lucrative sub-genre that spans both experiences and luxury goods: craft schools, where the consumer can get behind the scenes and learn about the provenance, artistry and craftsmanship behind the Van Cleef & Arpels Couleurs de Paradis necklace or the Louboutin shoes they just purchased. These luxury craft écoles (schools) are big business for the brands: the recent multimillion-dollar renovation of the Ritz Paris included decking out the Escoffier cooking school with state-of-the-art equipment, a new demonstration kitchen and a pastry lab.

Here, we highlight three of the top craft schools in Paris to learn luxury artistry from the experts.

獎得主讓．努維爾設計，曾為多位風格各異的當代藝術家舉辦展覽，包括剛果畫家Chéri Samba及日本藝術家宮島達男等。

日益流行的「體驗式奢侈品」同時亦衍生了一種利潤豐厚、介乎體驗及奢侈品之間的新生事物，就是工藝學校。這種工藝學校並非一般的職業訓練學校，而是讓消費者有機會走到幕後，例如了解Van Cleef & Arpels梵克雅寶Couleurs de Paradis頸鏈，或他們剛購買的Louboutin皮鞋的歷史源流、設計的藝術及手工技藝等。這些豪華工藝學校是品牌的一門大生意：最近剛耗資數百萬美元裝修的巴黎麗茲酒店內，就有一所設備先進的麗茲埃科菲烹飪學校，裡面配備了全新的示範廚房及糕餅實驗室。

以下是我們精選的三所頂尖工藝學校，讓你有機會在巴黎向專家學習精工製作奢侈品的技藝。

刺綉地點：École Lesage刺綉工坊學校活動：高級訂製刺綉、穿珠及鑲亮片自1924 年起，L e s a g e刺綉工坊一直以人手為Yves Saint Laurent、Chris t ian Dior、Balenciaga及Chanel等高級時裝品牌製作圖案華美繁複的刺綉。不過這間刺綉工坊的歷史可追溯至更早之前，其創辦

人Albert和Marie-Louise在1858年已成立刺綉工作室。

由於歷史悠久，Lesage刺綉工坊已建立了龐大的資料庫，除了原來收藏的75,000個刺綉樣本，現在每年更會增加約100個新設計。想知道這種規模是如何盛大，以下給你一點參考資料：每年在時裝表演中亮相的長禮服裙和雞尾酒會禮服，大約需要用上300公斤的珠子及一億塊亮片來縫製。

Lesage刺綉工坊於1992年開設學校，為專業刺綉師、學生及成千上萬的業餘刺綉愛好者提供各種刺綉課程，來自這間著名工坊的刺綉師會跟學員分享這門工藝的歷史與知識。訓練一名高級時裝刺綉師需要花上150個小時，但工坊也開辦夜校，為業餘愛好者提供理論和實踐兼備的短期課程。這家刺綉學校於2002年歸入Chanel品牌內。ecolelesage.fr/en

香水地點：香水博物館及Cinquième Sens香水學校 活動：調製香水香水博物館去年12月在巴黎的R u e d u Faubourg Saint Honoré路開幕，是全球首家以香水為主題的博物館。參觀者可在

EMBROIDERYWhere: École LesageWhat: Haute couture embroidery, beading and sequinning The Lesage workshops have been hand-stitching intricate embroidery for the great names of couture including Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Chanel since 1924, although the brand goes even further back – founders Albert and Marie-Louise started their embroidery atelier in 1858.

The vast Lesage archives contain 75,000 samples of embroidery, with the present generation adding around 100 new designs each year. (To give a sense of scale: the grand gowns and cocktail dresses on the catwalk today use 300 kilograms of beads and 100 million sequins a year.)

In 1992, Lesage, which became part of Maison Chanel in 2002, opened a school of embroidery for professionals, students and thousands of enthusiastic amateurs. Here, the Lesage embroiderers share the history and knowledge of their craft. Although it may take 150 hours to fully train an haute couture embroiderer, there are short, theoretical and practical evening classes in the craft available for the amateur. ecolelesage.fr/en

On the scent

Make your own perfume at Grand Musée du Parfum (opposite); take an embroidery class at École Lesage (this page)

巧手精製 在香水博物館（對頁）製作自己的專屬香水；在École Lesage刺綉工坊學校學習刺綉技藝（本頁）

PARIS CRAFT SCHOOLS 巴黎工藝學校42

DISCOVERY SEPTEMBER 2017

DISCOVER PARISCathay Pacific flies to Paris from Hong Kong 10 times a week

探索巴黎國泰航空設有由香港飛往巴黎的

航班，每周有十班

PERFUMERYWhere: Grand Musée du Parfum, Cinquième SensWhat: Fragrance-making Last December, the Grand Musée du Parfum, the first of its kind, opened on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Visitors learn how the master perfumers create their fragrances, the raw materials that they use, and how smell and emotion are connected. The museum runs workshops for visitors to develop their sense of smell and olfactory memory; these are mostly conducted in French.

Cinquième Sens, a long-established professional training centre for the fragrance business on the Left Bank, offers introductory Discovery Days in English for perfume enthusiasts. The workshops begin by explaining the composition of perfume, the raw materials and its olfactory facets (citrus, woody, floral, for example). The second part of the workshop is making your own perfume using the raw materials, before departing with a 15 millilitre gift bottle of your creation. grandmuseeduparfum.fr/encinquiemesens.com

CUISINEWhere: École Ritz Escoffier at the Ritz ParisWhat: Pastry, macarons and seasonal French dishes The French chef Auguste Escoffier once said: ‘Good cuisine is the basis of true happiness.’ His legacy is celebrated in the École Ritz Escoffier, which opened in 1988. It reopened last year following the Ritz Paris’ mega-bucks renovation. Catering to professionals, curious gourmands and those who just want to improve their skills, the École runs a diverse range of courses and demonstration workshops with hands-on experience. There are three airy teaching kitchens, including one overlooking the main kitchen of the hotel, where you can watch the experts at work.

A good place to start is the pastry classes, which span a variety of skills including learning how to work with chocolate and to make choux pastry, Parisian macarons and homemade viennoiseries. There are other classes such as Ritzy Break (the preparation and tasting of a seasonal dish) and Sweet and Savoury, in which you’ll create a main course and dessert. Or you can take a break from the kitchen and enjoy the Ritz gardens where you’ll learn to barbecue meat, fish and vegetables. ritzescoffier.com

這裡了解香水大師如何調製香水，認識調製香水的原材料，以及香味與情緒之間的聯繫。博物館主辦多種工作坊，讓參加者培養更敏銳的嗅覺及嗅覺記憶，課程大部分以法語進行。

位於左岸的Cinquième Sens則是一間歷史悠久的專業香水培訓中心，為香水愛好者提供以英文講解的Discovery Days入門體驗工作坊。工作坊首先解釋香水成分、原材料及聞起來的味道，如柑橘味、木味及花香等，接下來參加者可用原材料自己調製香水，最後還可以將自己製作的15毫升支裝香水帶回家。grandmuseeduparfum.fr/en cinquiemesens.com

烹飪地點：巴黎麗茲酒店麗茲埃科菲烹飪學校活動：製作麵包西餅、馬卡龍和法式時令料理法國廚師Auguste Escoffier曾說過：「優秀的烹飪是真正幸福的基礎。」1988年開幕的麗茲埃科菲烹飪學校將他的理想發揚光大。去年，隨著巴黎麗茲酒店耗費巨資的裝修工程竣工，這家烹飪學校再度復課。學校為專業人士、好奇的美食家及純粹想增進烹飪技巧的人而設，舉辦各式各樣的課程及示範工作坊，為學員提供親身體驗的機會。校內設有三個空氣流通的教學廚房，其中一個新廚房更可俯瞰巴黎麗茲酒店的中央廚房，讓學員有機會觀摩專業名廚如何大顯身手。

想在這裡學習烹飪的話，不妨從製作麵包糕餅入手，學員可以學習到多種技巧，例如運用朱古力的各種技巧，或是製作泡芙、巴黎馬卡龍或法式甜酥麵包viennoiserie。其他烹飪課程包括烹調和品嚐時令菜餚的Ritzy Break，以及學習烹調一道主菜及甜品的Sweet and Savoury等。你甚至可以走出廚房，一邊學習如何燒烤肉類、魚類和蔬菜，一邊欣賞麗茲酒店的美麗花園。

ritzescoffier.com

Pro tips

Master perfumery at Cinquième Sens (right) and the culinary arts at École Ritz Escoffier (below)

專家心得 在 Cinquième Sens 香水學校（右圖）學習香水知識；在麗茲埃科菲烹飪學校（下圖）精研烹飪秘技

Phot

os. D

ish:

Alb

an C

outu

rier