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1980

II

III

Inheritance of Hakka Cuisine and Its Group Identification

Abstract

Hakka Movement has begun since the end of the 1980s in Taiwan, all of Hakka

cultures-including the past about living, dressing, appliances, cuisine, and so on- have

been reconsidered by Taiwanese people. When political and society in Taiwan was

drastically transformed, Ethnic group becoming the most important thing to concern.

The research of the Hakka cuisine that was so many kinds of movements which

improve ethnic culture growth was getting more seriously important.

Under the globalization and diet consumerism, modern people are almost dining

out and foreign food. Recently The Council of Hakka Affairs has developed Hakka

culture of diversity and elaboration, especially in Hakka cuisine. There is a symbolic

significance of Hakka cuisine, at the view of the theory of ethnic boundary in which a

whole rise of Hakka consciousness or Hakka exposition. The most important thing is

the segment of Hakka and Minnan cuisine, which is formation of an ethnic boundary.

On the one hand Hakka cuisine which is very important to become a kind of

consumerism, Hakka restaurant, even become the Hakka festival and so on is

supported by Government; one the other hand Hakka cuisine dont inherit at everyday

live, therefore, Hakka cuisine is seen to massive on surface, in fact it has a crisis in

which Hakka cuisine become the process of the ethnic inheritance. In this situation,

we assume that Hakka cuisine is very important symbolize of ethnicity, what can

people be inherited of this generation? How can people be inherited at everyday live?

Does the identity change between generations?

The following purpose of this paper:

1. What kind of change is Hakka cuisine influenced by diet commercialized?

IV

2. How is the Hakka cuisine inherited at everyday live? To explore ethnic boundary

and ethnic identity.

The study finds that inheritance of the Hakka cuisine at everyday life appear to

crisis, companioning the collapse of the power, and the change of the gender. But

Hakka cuisine has become a new symbol meaning and has been active in Taiwan

through the result of Hakka Affairs Council and diet consumerism. Therefore Hakka

cuisine leaves the issue of everyday live, and becomes a new consumer product.

Hakka cuisine inheritance is from the family into the market. Hakka cuisine

cooking skills in the family tradition may have subsided, but the identity of Hakka

cultural may increase because of government propaganda, restaurants substantial

increase, the Hakka identity is rising, the connotation of Hakka cuisine and heritage

models has already changed.

KeywordsHakka FoodEthnic identityEthnic groups and boundariespass down

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