VW GOLF Mk4 TDI FRONT MOUNTING … golf mk4 tdi front mounting intercooler installation instructions...
Transcript of VW GOLF Mk4 TDI FRONT MOUNTING … golf mk4 tdi front mounting intercooler installation instructions...
VW GOLF Mk4 TDI FRONT MOUNTING
INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Tools required:
10mm/13mm socket and 3/8 drive ratchet with extension
Torx T20/25/30 screwdrivers or bits
Phillips head screwdriver, small slotted screwdriver
3mm allen key or screwdriver
10mm spanner (ideally a ratchet spanner)
7mm hose driver
Dremel or hacksaw
1. Jack the car up, secure it on axle stands and open the bonnet. Insert a small screwdriver into
the bonnet release lever where it joins the mechanism, and twist to release the lever.
2. Undo the screws on each side of the grille, then pull the grille upwards to release the tab
from the bumper and remove it from the car.
3. Working in each wheel arch, undo the four T25 screws securing the wheel arch liner to the
bumper. You may need to turn the wheel a little in order to gain access.
4. Remove each of the bumper side vents by pulling them forwards, then undo the 12 or
13mm bolt (depending on model) securing the bumper to the crash bar. Remove the air
temperature sensor from behind the passenger side vent.
5. Remove the five T30 bolts holding the top edge of the bumper to the car.
6. With one hand supporting the bumper, pull the bumper away from the wheel arch with your
other hand to free it from the plastic clips, the repeat for the other side, and remove the
bumper from the car.
7. Remove the drivers side headlight by removing the electrical connection on the rear, then
undo the two T25 screws on the top and two underneath to remove the light.
8. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the intercooler to the inner wing, and disconnect the
MAP sensor wiring by squeezing the rear of the connector to remove it.
MAP sensor wiring
9. Undo the lower 10mm bolt holding the intercooler to the lower mounting bracket.
10. Remove theintercooler inlet and outlet hoses by placing a small screwdriver under the raised
section of the locking clip and prising it up, releasing the hose. There are actually two clips
on the inlet and two on the outlet, as the intercooler is mounted via short couplers. All four
will need to be undone, but two can be removed with the intercooler off the car.
11. Remove the bonnet mechanism support entirely by removing the two T30 screws holding it
to the crash bar, plus two T25 screws and one T20 screw at the mechanism itself, or if you
don’t wish to realign the catch afterwards, cut through it with a hacksaw at the point shown
below.
Or cut here
12. Remove the crash bar by undoing the two 13mm bolts on each end. You may wish to
support the radiator plastic surround on a jack using a plank of wood, as this will maintain
the alignment of the crash bar to the chassis when you come to install the Forge bar.
13. Mount the Forge crash bar and bolt it up to the chassis, before releasing the jack.
14. Remove the bracket that held the stock intercooler into the car. This is easier said than
done, the two bolts you need to remove are under the washer bottle, but access is limited
so you will need to raise the washer bottle a little, and to do this you will need to remove
the bonnet cable protector. Firstly remove the two plastic nuts securing the washer bottle.
Washer bottle top nut
Remove the two small phillips head screws securing the bonnet cable protector, and pull it
out from under the wing. This will give you the clearance to move the washer bottle off its
mountings.
Washer bottle bottom nut
Bonnet cable cover front screw
15. Pull the windscreen washer reservoir upwards and slightly forwards to enable access to the
two 10mm bolts holding the intercooler bracket to the car. Remove the bracket.
Bonnet cable cover top screw
16. Place a 50mm straight silicon coupler onto the top hose outlet of the intercooler, and
position two jubilee clips loosely in the orientation shown below. HINT : If any hoses are a
tight fit, you will find using some silicon spray on the inside of the hose e.g back to
black/cockpit shine will lubricate the hose and make it easier to fit. DON’T use oil or washing
up liquid.
17. Using two M6x20 hex head bolts and two penny washers, mount the intercooler to the crash
bar loosely, with the 50mm coupler in the crash bar recess.
18. Loosely fit the aluminium pipe with the oval adaptor (for the MAP sensor) into the 50mm
coupler, by sliding the pipe in from the drivers side of the crash bar.
19. Assemble the short aluminium pipe with aluminium coupler on the end into the 135 degree
silicon elbow, with jubilee clips to suit, but not tightened. You may need to rotate the
coupler in the bend in step 21 so lubricating spray may be handy.
20. Retrieve the top coupler you removed in step 10, and using a pick or small screwdriver, lever
out one of the rubber o‐rings taking care not to damage it, and put it in the Forge coupler
you assembled in step 19. Make sure the o‐ring isn’t twisted as you install it, and that it’s the
right way round.
21. Place the Forge coupler into the socket behind the headlight (it will only fit in one way so
rotate it if necessary), then push hard until the locking ring clicks into place. Twist the 135
deg bend upwards and connect it to the pipe coming from the intercooler. When all the
joins have at least 30mm of aluminium pipe inside the silicon, tighten the jubilee clips.
22. From the stock intercooler, unscrew the MAP sensor with a Phillips head screwdriver. Ensure
the rubber o‐ring is in good condition, then push it into the MAP sensor adaptor supplied.
Route the MAP sensor wiring over the aluminium tube and out under the headlight, then
put the MAP sensor into the top pipe (note the orientation shown below), secure it with the
two M5x16 screws supplied using a 3mm allen key.
23. Remove the ‘pancake’ pipe in the wheel arch area by undoing the 10mm nut holding the
bracket (keep this for later use) and then prising up the locking clip on the hose (like in step
10). Remove the rubber o‐ring from the end of the hose connected to the turbo.
24. Push a 50mm silicon coupler over the metal connector until its snug up to the end of the
connector, then tighten with a jubilee clip.
25. Place a jubilee clip loosely over the other end of the 50mm coupler, then insert the end of
the Forge replacement pancake pipe into it. Secure the pipe on the spare threaded rod on
the chassis by using the 10mm nut you removed in step 23.
26. Finally, connect the remaining 90 deg silicon bend between the end of the pancake pipe and
the lower pipe on the intercooler with jubilee clips– NOTE that the lower intercooler pipe is
ovalised for a reason, it hasn’t been damaged. With everything connected, go round the
whole intercooler pipework and tighten all the jubilee clips.
Spare threaded rod on chassis
27. Remove the centre grille from your stock bumper and insert the Forge modified centre and
driver side grille (supplied). Mark a line using the Forge grilles as a template, and cut out
from the rear of the stock bumper using a dremel or hacksaw, then refit the centre grille.
28. Attempt to refit the bumper loosely. If you have an aftermarket bumper, or one from
another model (e.g. R32),the bumper will not push back far enough or is fouling on the
lower intercooler pipe, then the lip on the radiator surround behind the lower pipe can be
cut back with a padsaw (without removing the intercooler) or dremel (with the intercooler
removed). The intercooler bolts can then be slackened to push the intercooler back.
If you do have an R32 bumper, the mountings are slightly different in that the bumper is
secured by means of one of the crash bar bolts each side (see step 12). In this case the fixing
needs to go up and over the lower intercooler pipe which can make refitting difficult without
the help of an assistant.
29. The intercooler install is now complete. Ensure all hose connections are tight. Follow steps
6‐1 backwards to refit the bumper, then lower the car to the ground and enjoy your new
intercooler !
ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE
This area can be
cut back as shown