SURVEY OF PENLLERGARE UPPER

LAKE AND ENVIRONS, 2006

Paratowyd gan Archaeoleg Cambria Ar gyfer Ymddiroldolaeth Penllergare Prepared by Cambria Archaeology For Penllergare Trust

ARCHAEOLEG CAMBRIA ARCHAEOLOGY

RHIF YR ADRODDIAD / REPORT NO. 2006/28

Mawrth 2006 March 2006

SURVEY OF PENLLERGARE UPPER LAKE AND ENVIRONS, 2006

Gan / By

K Murphy

Archaeoleg Cambria yw enw marchnata Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Dyfed Cyfyngedig. Cambria Archaeology is the marketing name of the Dyfed Archaeological Trust Limited.

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Ymddir

Neuadd y

Ffon: YmAdran R

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CAMBRIA ARCHAEOLOGY Dyfed Archaeological Trust Limited

The Shire Hall, Carmarthen Street, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire SA19 6AF

Tel: General Enquiries 01558 823121 Heritage Management Section 01558 823131

Fax: 01558 823133 Email: cambria@cambria.org.uk Website: www.cambria.org.uk

CADEIRYDD

Cover phoLake, c. 1

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ARCHAEOLEG CAMBRIA iedolaeth Archaeolegol Dyfed Cyf Sir, Stryd Caerfyrddin, Llandeilo, Sir

Gaerfyrddin SA19 6AF holiadau Cyffredinol 01558 823121 heoli Treftadaeth 01558 823131

Ffacs: 01558 823133 st: cambria@cambria.org.uk

wefan: www.cambria.org.uk

1198990) ynghyd ag elusen gofrestredig (504616) yw’r Ymddiriedolaeth. The Trust is both a Limited Company (No. 1198990) and a Registered Charity (No. 504616)

CHAIRMAN: C R MUSSON MBE B Arch FSA MIFA. CYFARWYDDWR DIRECTOR: E G HUGHES BA FSA MIFA

tograph by John Dillwyn Llewelyn of steps and a waterfall on the west side of the Upper 852

CONTENTS SUMMARY 4 INTRODUCTION 4 SURVEY RESULTS 4 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FUTURE WORK 8 MAP Rear of report

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SUMMARY In early 2004 and 2006 a topographic survey by Cambria Archaeology on behalf of the Penllergare Trust recorded the core of the Penllergare historic garden, Swansea. John Dillwyn Llewelyn laid out the gardens at Penllergare in a picturesque style starting in the 1830s. Unlike other picturesque landscapes in Wales, such as Hafod and Piercefield, which relied on their dramatic setting, Penllergare occupied a small, modest valley and therefore required substantial engineering to create the desired picturesque effect. It is this melding of the natural and built that lends such importance to Penllergare. A very large collection of photographs dating mainly to the 1850s by John Dillwyn Llewelyn enhances this importance. Despite over half a century of neglect, the demolition of the mansion and truncation of the northern section of the garden by the A48 and M4 corridor, this survey demonstrated that many of the elements of the picturesque landscape survive. Picturesque walks on the eastern side of the Upper Lake were recorded for the first time, enabling the understanding of this particularly intractable piece of landscape. INTRODUCTION Cambria Archaeology undertook a topographic survey of Penllergare Upper Lake and environs in January and February 2006. The work was commissioned by the Penllergare Trust and followed on from a survey of the walled garden, also by Cambria Archaeology, in 2004. A Trimble total station theodolite was used throughout. Following data manipulation a series of GIS MapInfo tables were created. The survey was not tied into Ordnance Survey data, but the position of the data on the MapInfo tables was positioned as close as possible to the Ordnance Survey grid. The GIS tables and maps produced from them are the main reporting vehicle. The following brief notes are intended to highlight the main findings of the survey, and are not intended as a comprehensive commentary on the survey. Prior to and during the 2006 survey a team led by David Whitelock, employed by the Penllergare Trust, cleared rhododendron, laurel and other undergrowth out of much of the survey area on the western side of the Upper Lake. Without this clearance the survey would have progressed much slower and some of the more ephemeral landscape features would have been missed. SURVEY RESULTS East side of the Upper Lake This area is dominated by a steep, west-facing valley side with several rocky outcrops. It is highest but less steep at its southern end where it rises over 28m from the River Llan, and lower (c. 15m) but steeper and more craggy at its northern end above the former lake. There are two distinct vegetation zones in this area. The northern section and the area alongside the lake/river is characterised by deciduous woodland (mostly oak, sycamore and beech), which, on the upper slopes has a coniferous under plantation (larch and Scots Pine). These are now mature trees. There is a dense rhododendron under-storey under the trees. The southern section is dominated by a bracken-covered steep slope with numerous stumps and occasional larch trees. This area is described from north to south. The extreme northern end of this landscape has been disturbed by late 20th century engineering works, as has the gentle slope (A), which was used as an access ramp by machinery working on the riverbank.

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An old walk (A100), not shown on historic maps, lies to the south of area A. This is marked by a well-engineered terrace cut into and/or built out from the steep slope. It either runs at the foot of a low cliff, or along its crest. In places a low stone wall revets the walk on the down-slope side. There are three short flights of stone step along the course of the path. A second walk (A101) branches off A100 and runs to the north along a low cliff towards the foot of the valley. This walk has been truncated by the engineering works at A, and so its course to the north is not known. However, it seems likely that it ran along the foot of the valley side, close to the edge of the Upper Lake. A viewing platform (A102), situated on a natural rock outcrop lies above walk A100, and was possibly reached from this walk, although access would have been easier from above the platform. The platform lies alongside a stream, and from it views over the Upper Lake towards the waterfall would have been visible; these are now blocked by vegetation. A second viewing platform (A103) lies at the foot of a low cliff, alongside walk A100. This is a suitable location for a seat as it is sheltered and good views would have been obtained over the upper lake to the south. A flight of four stone steps (A104) leads up from this path to the northeast. A modern worn path leads from these steps to the north, running close to the top of a low cliff. There is no evidence for an old path on this modern course. At its south end walk A100 is cut across by a later track (A105). This track is shown on historic Ordnance Survey maps running (mostly) just outside the eastern boundary of the 2006 survey. It is traceable for most of its course, even in the dense woodland that characterised the vegetation at its northern end. At its southern end it is, in turn, truncated by a late 20th century track, which is still in use. The walk continues to the south (04918w) running down the steep valley side towards the Old Bridge. Other features of interest on the east side of the lake are track 04917w, which seems to be of modern construction, built for large vehicles and designed to enable the transport of silts extracted from the lake, and the remains of a leat (A106). The leat branches off from the River Llan close to a modern weir and runs for c. 230m hugging the foot of the valley side for most of its course. At the south end it drifts slightly away from the valley side to form what would have been a millpond. The leat was submerged by the construction of the Upper Lake, although part of the leat bank may have been visible at low water. Any mill associated with the leat is presumably now buried beneath 3m - 4m of lake silts. West side of the Upper Lake - north section This part of the survey runs from the northern edge of the survey area, where recent engineering works have destroyed the earlier landscape, to the terrace or rockwork garden. It comprises gently sloping land on its west side and the steep, east-facing valley side. This steep slope becomes increasingly craggy and rocky towards its northern end. The vegetation is deciduous woodland, much of it 20th century regeneration, with a very dense rhododendron under-storey. There are a few specimen trees. Prior to survey the whole area was cleared of its rhododendron scrub, revealing features not previously seen.

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A feature of this side of the valley is an old track (04832w and 04819w). The date of this is unknown, but it was adopted and modified as part of the garden, and is, therefore, at least 18th century in date, and possibly considerably earlier. At its northern end (04832w) it comprises a terrace c. 4m wide cut into the top of the valley side. This terrace is shown as a path/walk on historic Ordnance Survey maps. This path turns to the southwest at the end of the terrace towards Penllergare Mansion - here on the ground a slight linear hollow marks the line of the path. The course of the terrace track is then lost in garden features. (see below). Immediately to the east of the track a natural, small promontory (A107) may have been used as a viewing point. There is no evidence for any construction here, but good views would have been obtained from the promontory over the Upper Lake. The garden features mentioned above are complex, fragmentary and not easy to understand. A small quarry (04833w) was adopted as part of the garden. A stream was diverted into it via a small leat creating a waterfall (04836w) at the back of the quarry, and possibly a second waterfall at the mouth of the quarry. To the south of this quarry a natural rock outcrop also seems to have been quarried (04834w) and again with a stream diverted into it creating a waterfall (04835w). A dam (A108), now in poor condition, supplied these leats, although as they are at different levels it is difficult to envisage how they could have been supplied simultaneously. The flow of water into the dam and into the leats has been disrupted by later constructions upstream. The waterfall 04835w would have been visible from a flight of steps (A109) that leads down the steep slope (see cover photograph). To the south of the garden features the track continues (04819w). Here it is heavily engineered, having been cut into the steep bedrock slope. Partway along this track a flight of stone steps (04827w) leads up the slope onto a path (A110) that leads to the mansion. Remains of an estate style iron gate (A111) lie midway along this path. Steps (04504w) lead down from the track (04819w) onto a path or walk (04828w). To the south of these steps the character of the track (04819w) changes, becoming narrower and less well defined, and having the appearance of a path rather than a track. A long flight of stone steps (04820w) leads up the slope from the track/path and to the site of the mansion. These steps are still in use. West side of the Upper Lake - central section This section comprised a steep, east-facing valley side, with in places extremely steep slopes; these are only rarely craggy. Vegetation is mature deciduous woodland, including some specimen trees, with a dense rhododendron and laurel under-storey. The track/path numbered 04819w continues in this central section where it has been numbered 04823w and 04984w. Here it has been extensively modified and incorporated into a terrace/rockwork garden. The terrace garden is defined by high stone revetment walls (04821w and 04822w), stone steps (04826w), and a cistern (04824w) within the general stone spread of the rockwork garden. There are other landscape elements that suggest that the terrace garden was created out of an earlier walled garden, the north

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and south walls of which have now gone, but the stub walls A112 and 04863w may be their remains. Wall 04863w seems to have been modified and used as a viewing platform. The long line of stone steps (04826w) seems originally to have continued further to the west, passing through wall 0841w and straight up to the mansion. Two paths not previously recorded lie close to the terrace garden (A113 and A114). To the south of the terrace garden a path (04825w) with occasional stone steps leads up the slope to the carriage drive. A stone-built culvert (A115) empties out midway along this path. The function of this is uncertain, but it presumably originates from the mansion. To the south the track/path (04984w) runs down the slope towards the old bridge. It has been truncated at its south end by a substantial modern track. However, originally the track seems to have run across the slope - terraces now define its original course (A116 and A117). The northernmost of these terraces is on a very steep and active slope and little survives of it. However, to the south A117 is in very good condition, and indeed the track here seems to follow a natural terrace on the valley side. Several paths converge in the area of track A117 - A118, A119 and 04867w. Some of these are shown on historic Ordnance Survey maps. A slight platform (A120) might be a viewing platform - certainly good views of the Upper Lake waterfall would have been obtained from here. The southern end of this section is marked by a braiding of the paths/tracks. Path A118 continues before fading against the modern concrete culvert at the south end. Path A121 is the best defined, with a good revetment wall at its south end. However, it rapidly fades to the north and becomes untraceable, despite the fact the historic Ordnance Survey maps show it continuing and meeting A118. Path A123 is very poorly defined. Running parallel to the modern track on the eastern side of this section is path A124 bounded by an earthwork bank. This path continues as 04860w in the south section (see below). West side of the Upper Lake - south section This section occupies a steep, east-facing slope bisected by a modern track. Deciduous woodland, with numerous stumps, some rhododendron scrub and brambles characterises the vegetation. As noted above path 04860w, a continuation from the north, runs up the slope in this area. A second path (A125) runs almost straight up the steep slope, while a third (04501w) runs parallel to, and is truncated by, the modern track. A slight, natural promontory (A126) could well have been used as a viewing platform. A terrace/shelf leading off it to the west would have given access onto it. Certainly good views up the valley towards the Upper Lake would have been obtained from this point. The southern limit of the survey is marked by the track 04846w. West side of the Upper Lake - the Old Mill This section of the survey lies on a fairly level terrace just above the River Llan. Vegetation comprises deciduous woodland, with some specimen trees, and, in places, very dense rhododendron scrub. The vegetation over the mill itself had

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been cleared prior to the survey. Of note is the yew clump at the south end of the survey area - these seem to have been planted as an avenue. The mill building (08468w) is represented by earthwork banks with some evidence of stone walls. It measured approximately 25m by 8m. A circular, stone-lined pit lies to the east of the building, using half an old millstone in its construction. However, the location of the wheel pit and leat is not known. Abutments for a small bridge (04507w) lie upstream of the mill. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FUTURE WORK Three recommendations for future work are given here:

The species of tree stumps identified during the survey should be ascertained in order to inform future planting The vegetation clearance work already undertaken should continue, extending the area to the east bank. Regeneration of new growth should be prevented. Some thinning of the coniferous plantation on the east bank would be desirable. At the moment these coniferous trees area not a problem, but in the near future their extraction on the steeper slopes will become difficult.

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SURVEY OF PENLLERGARE UPPER LAKE AND ENVIRONS, 2006

RHIF YR ADRODDIAD / REPORT NUMBER 2006/28

Mawrth 2006 March 2006

Paratowyd yr adroddiad hwn gan / This report has been prepared by Ken Murphy Swydd / Position: Principal Archaeologist - Field Services Llofnod / Signature ............…………................. Dyddiad / Date Mae’r adroddiad hwn wedi ei gael yn gywir a derbyn sêl bendith This report has been checked and approved by E G Hughes ar ran Archaeoleg Cambria, Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Dyfed Cyf. on behalf of Cambria Archaeology, Dyfed Archaeological Trust Ltd. Swydd / Position: Trust Director Llofnod / Signature .............…....…………....... Dyddiad / Date Yn unol â’n nôd i roddi gwasanaeth o ansawdd uchel, croesawn unrhyw sylwadau

sydd gennych ar gynnwys neu strwythur yr adroddiad hwn

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