Textile Finishing
-
Upload
salonivora -
Category
Documents
-
view
63 -
download
8
Transcript of Textile Finishing
TEXTILE FINISHING
bull Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the appearance andor usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine
bull Finishing is the final series of operations that produces finished textile fabric from grey goods
bull The word finish means all the different treatments applied to a fabric to change such things as its
bull Appearance bull Feel or handbull Wear ability or care requirements
Aesthetic Finishes
Classification of Finishes
bull Textile Finishes are classified in several ways According to function
Functional Finishes
Aesthetic Finishesbull Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and or hand or
drape of the fabrics
bull Fullingbull Mercerizationbull Napping And Suedingbull Plissebull Shearingbull Softeningbull Stiffening
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the appearance andor usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine
bull Finishing is the final series of operations that produces finished textile fabric from grey goods
bull The word finish means all the different treatments applied to a fabric to change such things as its
bull Appearance bull Feel or handbull Wear ability or care requirements
Aesthetic Finishes
Classification of Finishes
bull Textile Finishes are classified in several ways According to function
Functional Finishes
Aesthetic Finishesbull Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and or hand or
drape of the fabrics
bull Fullingbull Mercerizationbull Napping And Suedingbull Plissebull Shearingbull Softeningbull Stiffening
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull The word finish means all the different treatments applied to a fabric to change such things as its
bull Appearance bull Feel or handbull Wear ability or care requirements
Aesthetic Finishes
Classification of Finishes
bull Textile Finishes are classified in several ways According to function
Functional Finishes
Aesthetic Finishesbull Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and or hand or
drape of the fabrics
bull Fullingbull Mercerizationbull Napping And Suedingbull Plissebull Shearingbull Softeningbull Stiffening
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Aesthetic Finishes
Classification of Finishes
bull Textile Finishes are classified in several ways According to function
Functional Finishes
Aesthetic Finishesbull Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and or hand or
drape of the fabrics
bull Fullingbull Mercerizationbull Napping And Suedingbull Plissebull Shearingbull Softeningbull Stiffening
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Aesthetic Finishesbull Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and or hand or
drape of the fabrics
bull Fullingbull Mercerizationbull Napping And Suedingbull Plissebull Shearingbull Softeningbull Stiffening
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Functional Finishesbull Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of
the fabric like durability strength etc
bull AntimicrobialAntisepticbull Antistaticbull Crease resistantbull Durable Press bull Flame Resistantbull Mothproofbull Shrinkage Controlbull Soil Releasebull Water ProofRepellant
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull According to the quality
Temporary Permanent
Semi Permanent
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Temporary Finishes
bull A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage
bull Calenderingbull Embossingbull Starchingbull Softening
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Permanent Finishesbull If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments then the finish is said to be permanent finish
bull Sanforisingbull Resin Finishbull Water Proofbull Flame Proof
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Semi permanent Finishes
bull A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards
bull Schreiner Calenderingbull Buckram Finish
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull According to type of machinery
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Chemical Finishesbull Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying These are also called as wet Finishes
bull Stiff and transparentbull Flame Retardantbull Soil Releasebull Water Proofbull Crease Resistancebull Softening
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Mechanical finishesbull Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance This is also known as dry finish
bull Calenderingbull Raisingbull Sanforisingbull Milling
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Routine finishesbull Special finishes
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Calenderingbull Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure
bull The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable
bull The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to fabric
bull The rollers may be made of various material from hardened steel to elastic thermoplastic
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Objects of Calendering
bull To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
bull To compress the fabric and reduce its thicknessbull To reduce the air permeability by closing the threadsbull To increase the lusterbull To reduce the yarn slippagebull To increase the opacity of the fabricbull Surface patterning by embossing
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Types of Calendering
bull Swissing or normal gloss or simple calenderingbull Chintz or glazing or friction Calenderingbull Cire Calenderingbull Embossed Calenderingbull Moireacute Calenderingbull Schrenier Calendering
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Calendering machines
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Types of calendering
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Finishes enhancing appearance Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing brushing singeing beetling decating tentering calendering or pressing moireacuteing embossing creping glazing polishing and optical brightening
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Napping and shearingbull Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens
cottons spun silks and spun rayons including both woven and knitted types to raise a velvety soft surface
bull The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short loose fibres usually from the weft yarns to the surface forming a nap The process which increases warmth is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics
bull Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing
bull Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Brushingbull This process applied to a wide variety of fabrics is usually
accomplished by bristle-covered rollers
bull The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics
bull Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Singeing
bull Also called gassing singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres yarn ends and fuzz
bull This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric
bull Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Singeing machines
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Beetlingbull Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous
bull In this process the fabric dampened and wound around an iron cylinder is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Decating Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds man-
made and blended fibre fabrics and various types of knits
It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage
In wet decating which gives a subtle lustre or bloom fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Tentering bull These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions
bull Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric and travelling on tracks
bull As the fabric passes through the heated chamber creases and wrinkles are removed the weave is straightened and the fabric is dried to its final size
bull When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Tentering stentering machines
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Creping A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing In one method which is
not permanent the cloth is passed in the presence of steam between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas
In the more permanent caustic soda method a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda
The treated areas shrink and the untreated areas pucker If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes the effect is called plisseacute an allover design produces blister crepe
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Crepe effect
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Raising
bull 1 NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to dig out individual fiber endsto the surface
bull 2 SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper emery cloth etc)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade
changeSpecial type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
suede
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Shearing
Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces (Surface pile or nap) to a uniform height
Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also reduces the pilling tendency
For pile fabrics napped fabrics
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Raised Surface Finishes add texture
bull 1048708 Shearing- for pile fabrics surface pile is cut to control the pattern and appearance
bull Brushing-bull 1048708 Embossed fabrics-bull 1048708 Plissersquo- puckered surfaces created by printing fabric with sodium
hydroxide in stripes or designsbull 1048708 Flockingbull 1048708 Glued on short fibers to create fuzzy surfacebull 1048708 Nappingbrushing ndash fiber ends raised by mechanical brushingbull 1048708 Fulled- wool fabrics are shrunk in a controlled mannerbull 1048708 Beetled-bull 1048708 Sueding sanding- creates softer hand of fabric Emery paper orbull some other mild abrasion to surface of fabric
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Mercerisation bull Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric
a lustrous appearance The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp
bull The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood Lancashire England who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide
bull Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance and gives the fiber a softer feel
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability and handle
bull The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased and the handle is modified
bull A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Parchmentizingbull Treatment of cotton fabrics
with sulfuric acid bull The fabric is transparent
sheer stiff
bull Burn-out effects created by dissolving part of the fibers in a blend fabric leaving the second fiber in place
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Functional Finishes
bull All finishes that change a fabrics properties are applied chemically
bull Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one
bull Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric
bull Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning
bull Stabilization Finishes ndash bull Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or
stretch not more than 1 or 2 Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Pilling
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Anti-pilling finishes Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear
With knit fabric two more problems occur viz picking where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Permanent Anti-static effects
bull Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static charge build up amp give a natural feel
bull Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods
bull In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static effect
bull Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being curable at moderate temperatures
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Non-Slip finishesbull Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive
bull To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface
bull Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging
bull These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Fire Resistant finishes With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame the
molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 23-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Anti-microbial finishes
bull With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance
bull Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics amp GarmentsUseful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat
bull Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols quaternary ammonium compounds organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions
bull Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres such as wool from being attacked by moths carpet beetles and other insects
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body Recently fabrics have been developed that are waterproof yet are also breathable (eg GORE-TEX Bion II and Dicrylan)
bull Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting If the fabric becomes very wet water will eventually pass through Applied to fabrics found in raincoats all-weather coats hats capes umbrellas and shower curtains (eg Cravaneete Huydor-Pruf Syl-mer Scotchgard and Zepel)
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics
bull Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both
bull Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture
bull Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada laws require that childrens sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance
bull Absorbent Finishes increase fibres moisture holding power Such finishes have been applied to towels cloth diapers underwear sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Flame Resistant Finishesbull Flame Resistant the only performance required by law Regulates the
flammability of all peoplersquos clothing
bull This removed extremely hazardous materials such as things that will flash over quickly with only a small spark
bull Clothing will still burn however the amount of flame and combustion is controlled
bull Flammability regulations cover childrenrsquos sleepwear carpets mattressesupholstered furniture
bull Childrenrsquos sleepwear standard is a vertical flammability test uses a gas flame to ignite the lower edge of the fabric
bull Are applied to combustible fabrics used in childrens sleepwear carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Fragrance finish bull Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent
bull Microencapsulated skin moisturizers vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles designed for wear in contact with skin These are claimed to promote a younger look counteracting the effects of skin ageing eg as a result of exposure to UV-radiation There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling
Home Textiles
In other areas household textiles such as curtains sofas cushions sheets as well as apparel items such as gloves socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Sport Wears
As the lsquosecond skinrsquo of the human body all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period
Apparel
The scents of lavender rose citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels leisure wear daily wears party wears etc
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Peach Finish Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels makes the surface velvet like This is a special
finish mostly used in garments
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Finishes for Synthetic fibers
bull Heat Setting Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling
bull This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric Presetting of goods make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of goods
bull On the other hand post setting can be combined with some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Enzymatic finishesbull Bio-polishing This is a process to remove the protruding
fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in temperature of the treatment bath
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Shrinkage Control Finishes
bull Some shrinkage expected in the first wash after weaving the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed
bull Sanforized compressive shrinkage
Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders
bull Sanfor-set uses liquid ammonia to make the compressive shrinkage more permanent
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
bull Heat setting for Thermoplastics heat fibers above their glass transition temperature- created a permanent shape
bull Shrinkage Control for Wool Remove the scales from the surface
of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is
fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-
Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
bull Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
bull Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness weakness odor soiling and affinity for soil less moisture absorbent
- TEXTILE FINISHING
- Slide 2
- Slide 3
- Classification of Finishes
- Aesthetic Finishes
- Functional Finishes
- Slide 7
- Temporary Finishes
- Permanent Finishes
- Semi permanent Finishes
- Slide 11
- Chemical Finishes
- Mechanical finishes
- Slide 14
- Calendering
- Objects of Calendering
- Types of Calendering
- Slide 18
- Calendering machines
- Slide 20
- Slide 21
- Finishes enhancing appearance
- Slide 23
- Slide 24
- Slide 25
- Slide 26
- Singeing
- Slide 28
- Slide 29
- Slide 30
- Slide 31
- Tentering stentering machines
- Slide 33
- Crepe effect
- Raising
- suede
- Shearing
- Raised Surface Finishes add texture
- Mercerisation
- Slide 40
- Parchmentizing
- Slide 42
- Slide 43
- Slide 44
- Slide 45
- Slide 46
- Slide 47
- Slide 48
- Slide 49
- Slide 50
- Slide 51
- Slide 52
- Flame Resistant Finishes
- Fragrance finish
- Slide 55
- Slide 56
- Finishes for Synthetic fibers
- Slide 58
- Shrinkage Control Finishes
- Slide 60
- Wrinkle Resistant Finishes
-