Revelations 2009 Moffatt

8/12/2019 Revelations 2009 Moffatt

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TWO

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THREE

The Stoney Years

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FOUR

American Dreamer N- -==2 '- Q 3=# "2#=


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FIVE

Masters Wall

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Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall (E5 6a), Dinas Cromlech, Wales.On Friday 15 July 1 983, the d ay after making th e first a scen t

of M aster's Wall (E7) on Cloggy, Jerry solo ed 7 rou tes on DinasCromlech: Cemetary Gates (El), down Ivy Sep ulch re (HVS),

Left W all (E2), Cenota ph Corner (El), Mem ory Lane (E3),Foil (E3) an d Right Wall (ES).

The M offatts: Tim, Jerry, Christine, Toby and Simon in 1971.


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iiii

This classic photoof Joe Brown

climbing Tensor

(E2) at Tremadogwas on the post

card Joe sen t Jerry.Sent letter off to

Joe Brown. Diaryentry, Thursday

10 M ay 1979.

y>

Hitching back to Sheffield in 1984.

B .T Tff

:M

-


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iL-fec

A youthful Jerry training in Tom's Roof at Stoney Middleton. Note the tubesock s and Fire rock bo ots.

2L


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Jerry ecs ta t ic a f t e r f l a sh ing Equinox (5 .12d)a t Joshua Tree and ( inset) going for brokeo n t h e l e a d .


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The legend ary John Bachar,dee p in thought.

John Bachar demo nstrating the 'secret' heelh ook mov e on th_bould er problem Pumping Mon zonite at Joshua Tree.


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Jerry interview ing Ron Kauk whil e in Germany for the UKclimbing magazine O n The Edge

Kurt Albert making theimpossible possible inFontainebleau.

..,&


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1984 . The first ascent of Papy on Sight (F7c+)in France 's Ve rdon Gorge. Jerry 's in f lue nc ewas a bso lu te ly MAJOR in France in the earlydays o f f r ee c l imbing . Verdon climber andphotographer, Marco Troussier.


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@H ; ;:


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SEVEN

The French Connec t ion

O f all th e places I have ever lived, of all th e caves and ce llars, th e asbe stosshacks and rot ten tents , none came close for wildness, f i l th , and pure disorder to 124 Hunter House Road

SIX


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World of Sport

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ELEVEN

Playing the Game

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J

wPRaw emotion after climbing Le Minimum(F8b+) at Buoux in 1987, bela yed bygood friend Sean Myles.


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Jerry nipping out for a pint of milk in the Peak. Jerry and Ben, dedica ted to training in the cellar.

*. ... ; ft

The boulder problem Superman (Font 8a+)at Cressbrook in the Peak District.


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Jerry making the crux m ove of The Dominator (Font 8b), Yosemite in 1993 .The Dominator wa s the standard by which everything else was measured,

it open ed my eyes to ho w cool bouldering is and the level of difficultythat can be achieved in just several mov es. - Chris Sharma


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Johnny Dawes taking the train to Hampi, India.

Malcolm Smith making the seco nd ascen tof The Ace (Font 8b) at Stanag e.

iirpry

Jerry so loing Big Guts El) in Hampi, India, whileJohnny seeks oul new lines to climb.

Jerry climbing aboveth e Emi Koussi

volca no in Chad.


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The remains of war. A soldier's hand and tank in Chad.

Jerry bouldering on o ne ofartist Jean Verame's colouredrocks in Chad

A self-portrait shot for Frenchmag azine Grimper in 199 2.

The them e was top climbers andwhat was important to them - Jerrybucked the trend of other European

climbers who had posed withtraining equipm ent and dietary W


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supplements, and instead opted fora more humorous approach.

Surfing warm water in Banyak,Indonesia, 2008.

TWELVE

Winning in Mind

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159/224

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183/224

E*,+ 7=3 ! #$ N27I 0=(( ##4 !, !,*, ( 9 23 =2 /173,# =6 \G; 7 I8 C #,*4 ( 9 23 25#=2,I '27 -"32"23 =2 #$, 7=(,4 oOg ' !,,> ,'-"(I , 1- #= #$, /'2> #= 7,;=-"# "#8 E$"- !'- ' 3*,'# $'/"# #= 3,# "2#= '- 'I=123-#,* '27 "# $,(;,7 +, ' (=# "2 ('#,* ("6,4 6*=+ -


184/224

2,9,* $'7 '2I "--1,- '/=1# -;,27"23 +=2,I =2 #*";-8

Q2 +I I=1#$ '(( Q $'7 !'2#,7 #= 7= !'- c1-# #= 3,# /I8 Q 7"72^# *,'((I #$"2> '/=1# #$,61#1*, #$'# +1"23 '/=1# #$,-, -;,,7 #$, -'+,4 #$,I 7"72^# $'9, #$, +'3",7 '# #$,R1"7*'!8 T"3$# "2


185/224

#$ 13$ +I I, 6 2c1 I4 !$,2 Q #$ 13$# Q 7 2,9, "23 2 '2 #$ *

T9,2#1'((I4 !, !=*>,7 #=3,#$,* =2 #$, =*"3"2'(4 -=6#,*:-=(,7 9,*-"=2 '27 "2 OHHG4S=*,'( *,(,'-,7 #$, C'-,*8 E$, C'-,*4 ' -=6# ('


186/224

'/=1# #$"-4 ,-;,"23 #$,+ '(( '/=1# #$,"* ;*=714 /1# "2 *,'("#I4 #$,I #==> 1; '/=1# #,2 7'I- "2 '2I I,'*4 -= "# !'-2^# +1


187/224

U$"(, Q !'-2^# =9,*c=I,7 '/=1# !*"#"23 '*#", !,*, #$, '"23 =6 '27 !*"#"23 7=!2 '(( #$, *,'-=2- !$I#$"-


188/224

; , ,78 ) 74 Q #$ 13$#4 Q 6 ,,: ( / 23 &,( 2 ? (1 2 27 #$ # (( #$,"2#,*,-# Q^+ 3,##"238 U$'# 7= I=1 $'9, #= 7= 6=* '##,2#"=2 #$,-, 7'I-h

E$,24 c1-# =66 #= #$, (,6#4 Q -'! ' ,,2 "23 '# /1"(7"23 ' !'(( #==8 @, ';;*='


189/224

7,-,*#,78 Q# !'- /'-" (=-"23 +I $=1-, =9,* "#4 -= "2 #$, ,274 0'1( '27 Q ;1# "2 A_8g;,*4 ' ;'#$,#"< 7*"//(, =6


190/224

+=2,I - /I - ## 23 *=127 ";-4 *122"23 #= $'*7!'*, -$=;-47,"23 #$, *"-> =6 7,9,(=;"23 "# +I-,(6 '27 '6#,* ' 6,! '3=2"-"23 6'(-, -#'*#-4 ' I,'*('#,*4 "# !'- -=(78 F"2'2


191/224

a&=4^ Q -'"74 U=1(7 I=1 ;*"2# "# =664 ;(,'-,4 Q !'2# #= (==> '# "#8^ Q #==> #$, -("; =6;';,* $=+, '27 ;"22,7 "# #= #$, !'((8 Q (==>,7 '# "# 6=* ' 6,! 7'I-4 #$"2>"23 Q-$=1(7 7= -=+,#$"23 !"#$ "#4 /1# "# !'- #== +12=! !$'# #= 7= !"#$8 Q2 #$,

,274 Q 7,,4 -= Q -=(7 "#/' #= #$, 7,'(,*8

Q 7=2^# >"7 +I-,(68 Q >2=! #$'# Q $'9, +'7, ' 6,! 3==7 7,'(- '27 #$'# #$,I $'9,-*=2, *"-6$# 6=* +,8 E$, F=127*I $'- 7=2, !,((4 #$, ;1/ "- 3="23 !,(( '27 #$,!'*,$=1-, 7,'( !'- ' -1


192/224

, , , ;, , ,, ,( , (( , ,


193/224

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194/224

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195/224

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196/224

# +, Q #* ,7 #4 3 9, # ,9,*I#$ 23 Q $ 7 27 ( 12,,; +I $'27 "2 , ' +=2>,Ii^

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"2#= - !,*,

;*=71 '27 -=+, 3*"#-#=2,


197/224

6'(("23 =66 ' (=# (,-- 7"


198/224

C'#,* #$'# I,'*4 +I =(7 6*",27 K=$2 S'


199/224

1 , 6 / (# ! /,< + 23 ! 7, ; , 74 #$ , #,2 23 #$, # 7 # 2 ( 9 (1, 6/=(72,-- '27 I=1 =2 #$, ;"2, ' c=>,4 '- #$,=9,*$'23 $'7 2= =#$,* 3==7 $=(7-8 0('I"23 =2 #$, ;"2


200/224

#,-# =6 ;=!,*4 6"*-# '27 6=*,+=-#8 Q6 I=1 $'9, ' (=234 6"6#,,2:+=9, /=1(7,* ;*=/(,+4I=1 "23


201/224

#$, ;"2


202/224

E$, M=+"2'#=* !'- ' 2,! (,9,( 6=* +, "2 #,*+- =6 7"66" +I 6,,# =66 $=(7- '# #$, /'4 +I /=7I -!123 =1#8 E$, +=*2"23 '27 #$,*, $';;,2,7 #= /, '


203/224

3=# #$*=13$ #$, 2,! #$,*, 27 #$,2#$'# 3"9,2 ' *,-# 7'I '27 #$, *"3$# ,*8 Q $'7 7=2, "#8 Q, ' -$'(,8


204/224

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LI 2,P# +'c=* 2,! "#8

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205/224

# /, 3 , #


206/224

Qaf>'I4 !,((4 -,, I=1 !$,2 I=1 3,# /'8^ af>'I8^

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207/224

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208/224

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-$=1(7,*4 "2c1*"23 "# R1"#, /'7(I8 Q 7"72^# , C"R1"7 N+/'* '3'"28 Q $'7 #= ;'>'*#"23 "28

Q -#"(( '-> +I-,(6 !$= #$'# !=+'2 !'-8

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209/224

#$, !'9,-8 E$,2 !,^7 7*"9, '*=127 #= (==> '# #!= =* #$*,, =#$,*-4 /,6=*, 1-1'((I3="23 /' #= -1*6 #$, 6"*-# =2,8 U, 7"7 #$, -'+, #$"234 ,9,*I 7'I4 6=* #$*,, !,,>-8

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210/224

Q 9,*I -,(7=+ #$"2> '/=1# "#8 E=7'I4 Q (==> /' '# #$'# I=1234 2"2,#,,2:I,'*:=(7!"#$ #$,


211/224

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212/224

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Q *"-> ' R1" 3('2- $13, '27 "#^- 3,##"23


213/224

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214/224

!*"##,24 I&'@ 03 4>% 5.*@R

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215/224

?$,,*- K,**I4 #^- /,,2 $==#8

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216/224

1963 18 Mar Born Jeremy Charles Moffatt.1978 Takes up climbing while at St David's College, Llandud no.1978 First lead of a route (VDiff).1979 First extreme route: Mojo El 5b, FA: Rowland Edwards,

1975), Craig-y-Forwyn, Wales.1979 First extreme grade lead: Hydro El 5b, FA: Rowland

Edwards, 1973), Little Orme, Wales.1980 Leaves St David's College.1980 Moves to Tremad og. Repeats many routes including

Strawberries (E6 6b, FA : Ron Fawcett, 1980), with restsand Zukator (E4 6b, FA: Pete Livesey, 1976).

1980 Moves to Peak District/Stoney Middleto n.1981 FA: Helmut Schmitt (E6 6b), Stoney Middleton, UK.1981 FA: Little Plum, Pitch 1 (E6 6c), Stoney Midd leton, UK.

1981 FA: Psyche n Burn (E6 6b), Tremad og, Wales.1982 FA: Little Plum, Pitch 2 (E6 6c), Stoney Midd leton, UK.1982 FA: Rooster Booster (E6 6c), Raven Tor, UK.1982 Repeats: Fast, second ascents of three Ron Fawcett routes -

The Prow (E7 6c, 1982), Indecent Exposure (E6 6b, 1982)at Raven Tor, and Tequila Mockingbird (E6 6b, 1982),Cheedale. All Peak District, UK.

J E R RY M O F FA T T - R E V E L AT I O N S

1982 Flash: Supercrack (5.12c, FA : Steve Wu nsc h, 1974),

S h a w a n g u n k s, U S A .1982 Repeat: Psycho Roof (5.12d, FA : Jim Collins, 1975),

E ldorado Canyon , USA.1982 Repeat: Genes is (5.12d, FA : Jim Collins, 1979), Eldor ado

C a n y o n , U S A .The second ascent of Jim Collins' route. Jerry subsequently climbedthe route in his trainers.

1983 F lash : Equinox (5 .12d , FA: Ton y Yani ro , 1980) , JoshuaTree , USA.The qua rtet is complete. Still only 20 years old Jerry leaves theUS with groundbreaking ascents of four of the country's hardest

routes.FA: Toge ther wi th Pe te Ki r ton , es tab l i shes many boulderprob lems on The Bowders tone in the Lake Dis t r i c t .Problems include, Picnic Sarcastic (V7), Impropa Opera(V7), Inaudible Vaudeville (V9) and Slapstick (V7).FA: Ulysses (E6 6b), Stanage, UK.FA: Mas te r ' s Wal l (E7 6b) , C logwyn Du ' r Arddu , Wales .As if one hard route was not enough, Jerry also climbed ThePurr-Spire (E5 6b) the same day.

1983

19831983 14 Jul

S I G N I F I C A N T E V E N T S A N D D AT E S

and Chas in ' the Tran e ( IX+, F7c , FA: John Bachar, 1981) ,

Frankenjura , Germany.Stunning ascents of three of the Frankenjura's hardest routes.

1 9 8 3 FA : Ekel (LX+, 7c+), Franken jura, Germ any.The first route graded IX+ in Germany.

1983 FA: Th e Face (X- , F8a) , F rankenjura , German y.The first route graded X- in Germany.

1984 F lashes Chim panzodro me (F7c+, FA: Jean P ie r re Bouvier,1981) and a 7b and 7b+ on his 21st birthday and repeatsBidu le (F8a+, FA: Marc le Menestrel , 1984), Saussois,France .

At the time, Bidule was France's hardest route.

On-s igh t : Po l Po t (F7c+) Verdon Gorge , France .FA: Papy on S igh t (F8a) , Verdon Gorge , France .Repea t : S ta tement o f Youth (F8a , FA: Ben Moon , 1984) ,Pen Trwyn, Wales .

A one-day a scent of Ben Moon's groundb reaking route.FA: Verba l Abuse (E7 6c) , Raven Tor, UK.FA: Revelations (F8a+), Raven Tor, UK.FA: Mess iah (E6 6c) , Burbage South , UK.Probably the hardest route on gritstone at the time.

198419841984

198419841984


217/224

Jerry solos seven routes on Dinas Cromlech, Wales:Cemetery Gates El 5b , FA: Joe Brown and Don W hi l lans ,1951), down Ivy Sepulchre El 5b , FA: Pe te r Hard ing ,1947), up Left Wall (E2 5c, FA: R Moseley, 1956),C e n o t a p h C o r n e r El 5c , FA : Joe Brown, 1952) , Me mory

Lane (E3 5c, FA: Pete Livesey, 1976), Foil (E3 6a, FA:Pete Livesey, 1976), and Right Wall (E5 6a, FA: Pete

Livesey, 1974).A huge day in British climbing history.

1983 Nei l 'Noddy ' Molnar d ies , so lo ing on Car reg Was tad , Wales .His ashes were scattered at Stoney Middleton.

1983 FA : Par i se l la ' s Roof (Font 7a+) , L landud no , Wales .Pretty cool huh?

1983 FA : Oys te r (F7c) , Pen Trwy n, Wales .

1983 FA : Mas te rc lass (F8a) , Pen Trwyn , Wales .The first route of its grade in the UK.

1983 Meets Wol fgang Gul l i ch .1983 On-s igh t : So lo o f L inden (E6 6b , FA: Mic k Fowler, 1976) ,

Curbar, UK.1983 On-s igh t : Sau tanz (FX, F7b+, FA : Kur t Alber t , 1982) ,

Heisse F inger ( IX+, F7c , FA: Wol fgang Gul l i ch , 1982)

1983 15 Jul Flash: Super Imjin (5 .12b /c , E6 6b , FA: Isao Ikeda, 1984)Ogawayama, Japan .

Japan's hardest route at the t ime, Super Imjin was flashed byJerry one month after the first ascent.

Many top climbers had been to Japan in the 1980s, su ch asStefan Glo wacz, Marc le Menestrel, Ron F awcett an d PatrickEdlinger, but the most impressive 'incident' was Jerry's [flash of]Super Imjin. Makoto Kitayama, Editor o f Japanese climbingMagazine, Rock Snow.Repea t : Midnigh t L igh tn ing (V9, FA: Ron Kauk , 1978) ,Yosemi te , USA.The first one-day ascent of Ron Kauk's then cutting e dge, andnow legendary boulder problem.

On-s igh t : The Phoenix (5 .13a , FA: Rayja rd ine , 1977) ,

Yosemi te , USA.The first on-sight of this route and this grade.

1984 /1985 Injury begins to worsen .1984 Ear ly v i s it to Hueco Tank s , Texas .1985 S ta r red on AB C's Wid e Wo r ld o f Spor t wi th Ron Kauk ,

the pair makin g a first free ascent on the Los t Arrow Spire

1984

1984

1984


next to Yosemite Falls .

Attracted a TV audience of around 30 million.1986 Du ring M arc h and April , undergo es a series of operations

on h i s e lbows in the Olympic Hosp i ta l , M unich .1986 Given the all clear and starts training again in Nov embe r.1987 3 Apr Je r ry ' s b ro ther Toby d ies in the USA.1987 Begins compet i t ion c l imbing . Com es 6 th in Troub a t and

8th at Arco.1987 Repeat: Ghe ttoblas ter (X+, F8 b FA : Wolf gang Giil l ich,

1986) , F rankenjura , G ermany.1987 Repeat: Le Rage de Vivre (F8b+, FA : Ant oine le Men estrel ,

1986), Buoux, France.

Second ascent.1987 Repea t : Le Min imum (F8b+, FA: Marc l e Menes t re l , 1986) ,

Buoux , France .Jerry makes the third ascent after years plagued by injury.

1988 Repeat: La Spectre des Surmutant (F8b+, FA : Jean B aptisteTr ibout , 1988) , Buoux , France .Jerry becomes the only person to climb the three hardest routes in

France.1988 Repeat: Scarface (5.14a, FA : Scott Franklin 1988), Sm ith


ASCI WORLD COMPETITION RANKING

After contributing competiti ns In 1989;

Each climber s five best results count incompetitions in 1989.Bardonnecia, Snowbird,

Men

1 Moffatt, J2 Raboutou, D3 Tribout, J B4 Glowacz, S

5 Cortijo, R6 Edlinger, P7 Nadin, S8 Ghersen, A9 Godoffe, J

10 Steulet, P11= Brasco, Clis Ghesquiers, Y11= Lesrand. F14 Masterson, B15 Cabanne, R15= Duboc. A17 Kauk, R18= Gallo, A18s T Kint. A20 Leach, M21 Furst. S22 Vincent. I23= Delsinne S

Bercy, Grenoble, Munich,Marseille and La Hiba

the

20/6/89

Leeds,

ranking out of ten contributingThe ten competitions are made up of the six above plusArco and Lyon.

.----~----~-- ------~-

Points

847268.7561.8335546452721.83318.511111110.510109.1668.333

8.333

8.25876

123456789

1011121314=14=1617181920=20=22=22=

Women

Patissier, IRaybaud, NJovane, LHill, LLabrune, CErbesfield. BDestivelle, CRicher, NPons, PMaurel, CDorsimont, IEisenhut, ADalmasso, MBarthelemy, PDuval, M ANoel, PGalland, PBrard, APlanchin, VGuerin. RLuzzini, DGloesner, COsius A

-~----------------~---

Points

1308060.56050.5443822.521.519.751917.75141111

9.25987.75554.754 75


218/224

Rock , USA.1988 Repea t : Wh i te We ddin g (5 .14a, FA: Jean Bapt i s te Tr ibo ut

1988) , Smi th Rock , USA.1988 Repea t : To Bol t Or No t To Be (5 .14a , FA : Jean Bapt i s te

Tr ibout 1986) , Smi th Rock U S A .Jerry becomes the first person to climb all three F8b+ (5.14a)routes in both France and the USA.

1988 FA : S tone Love (X+/XI- , F8b+) , Frankenjura , German y.1988 Com petit io n results: Seynes (1st place), Lyon (3rd) and

Arco (4 th) .1988 FA: Superman (Font 8a+) , Cressbrook , UK.1989 Crash es bike at Cadw ell race track, break ing wrist , ankle and

ribs.1989 Com petit io n results: Bercy (3rd place), Mu nic h (4th place),

Leeds (1st place), Lyon (2nd place), La Riba (Equal 1stplace), Cologn e (1st place), Bardon ecchia (2n d place) andMa donn a (1s t p lace) . Also came 3rd a t Ni i rnburg , 2 mon thsafter crashing on bike.Jerry emphatically wins at Leeds in ront of a home crowd.

1990 Com pet i t ion resu l ts : Bercy (1s t p lace) , Lond on Nat iona l(1st place), Vienna (2nd place), Maurienne Masters

23= Delsinne, S23= Gomez, T25 Kostermayer, G26 Suter, T27s Biechy, J P27s Dreyfus, F27= Moon, B30 Faudou, P31 Larafcerti, A32 Lombard, F33= Garcia, C33= Goddard, D33= Tchertov, A36 Robert, A37= Hirayama. Y37= Plantier, P39= Blein, S39= Dunne, J39= Lafaille. 3 C

~~----------------

665.2554.54.54.S

4.333

43.833

3.753.753.753.5332.52.52.5

- 1

22=2425262728=28=28=3132=32=34

Osius, AIbanez, ACole, JKosmacheva, NPeschl, SBertholon, NDykstra, 1Helfert. SGrouiller, CLaffont, 1Michoulier, COhshima, M

t

------------

4.754.543.532.52.52.521.751.751

/contd

19901990 May

19911991

(1st place), Japan (2nd place), La Riba (3rd place), Berkeley

(5th place) and Arco (5th place).Jerry retires from competit ion climbing.FA: L iqu id Ambar (F8c /+) , Pen Trwyn, Wales .Named after the Liquid A mbar, a type of tree, in memory

of Jerry s younger brother Toby.Open s Ha r rods sa le fo r Swatch watches .Th e Fou ndry climbing wall opens in Sheffield.


1991 FA : Stick It (Fon t 8a+, V12) and Th e Force (Fo nt 8a, V l l ) ,

Yosemi te , USA.1992 Wo lfgan g Giil l ich dies in a car crash in Germ any.1992 Repea t : Punks in the Gym (32 , F8b+, FA: Wol fgang

Giil l ich, 1985), Grampians, Australia.Then the hardest route in Australia.

1992 FA: Zor lac the Des t royer (31 , F8b) , Grampian s , Aus t ra l i a .1992 On-s igh t : Serpen t ine (29 , F8a , FA: Malco lm Math esen

1988), Grampians , Aus t ra l i a .

A world-class on-sight ascent in 35 degree heat.1992 Vis i ts Ham pi , Ind ia wi th Kur t Alber t and Johnn y Dawes .

Ma kes the first ascent of Ha nu ma n (Fo nt 8a+) plus man yother p rob lems .

1 9 9 3 FA : T h e Dominator (Font 8b , V13) , Yosemi te , USA.Th e sit-start to The Dominator was added by Chris Sharmain 2002.

1993 Mak es a one -day ascent of Th e Nos e (5.9, C2 , 2900 feet ,

FA : W. H a r d i n g , W. M e r r y, G . W h i t m o r e , 1 9 5 8 ) ,El Capi tan , Yosem i te wi th Kur t Alber t .

1993 Vis i ts Chad wi th Bruno Baumann and photographerHeinz Zak .


2000

2002

2002

FA: The A ce (Font 8b) , S tanage , UK.

Jerry's bouldering legacy. The most difficult bou lder problem atthe home of UK bouldering; the Stanage Plantation.Repea t : Nutsa (Font 8a+ , FA: Fred Nico le , 2000) ,Rocklands, South Africa.Jerry also established many first ascents, including a new Font

8a+ boulder problem (Ard eh ?) on the same trip before drawinghis professional climbing career to a close.First child born, Lily Rose Moffatt . Married Sharon Wallacein 2 0 0 3 . Barnaby James Moffa t t born in 2004 .


219/224

1994 FA: Big Kahuna (5 .13c /d , F8b) , L ions Head , Onta r io ,Canada .Then the hardest route in Canada .

1995 FA: Evolu t ion (F8c) , Raven Tor, UK .Extended by Steve McClure to give Mutation (F9a).

1995 FA: Renegade Mas te r (E8 7a) , F rogga t t Edge , UK .Subsequen t ascents have inished to the right, with Jerry's o riginal

finish (the crux) being repeated only once, by Rich Simpson.1995 FA : Progress (F8c), Kilnsey, UK .1995 FA : Sean's Roo f (F8c), Blackwell Dale , UK .1996 Nelson ' s Colu mn (E6 6b /5a) , Lond on , UK.

Climbed with Johnny Daw es and Simon Nadin on behalfof Survival to publicise the plight of Canada's Innu people.

1996 FA: Th e Joker (Font 8a) , S tanage , UK .

1996 Conce ived the idea for, produce d and starred inThe Real Thing c l imbing f ilm wi th Ben M oon .Filmed by Simon Tucker, the ilm focused on the boulderingin Fontainebleau , Fra nce.

1997 FA : Samson (E8 7b) , Burbage South , UK.1998 And rew Hen ry d ies .


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the canal at the bottom of the garden; especially the Bushs, Anne and Brian,

and their great , relaxed home in Bristol , and the furry and feathered visi torswho looked through the windows to say hello.

Thanks to Vertebrate for everything, especially Teija for always beingso nice on the pho ne, and John Coefield for sharing with me the childishenthus iasm - W e'r e do ing Jerry's book ' - as well as everything else he hasdone to b r ing i t a long . An d C apta in Q^ . Natha n , Jon and S imon. Th anks amill ion to Ed Douglas for his terrif ic work on edit ing the book. Ed sparedno effort in this task and more than anything this has made i t the book thatit is.

Th e greatest thanks go to my wife Hele n, for the support , the space, thebelief the expectation, the love, the cups of tea, and everything else.

iall GrimesSheffield, December 2008.

Glossary

Abse i l A controlled sl ide dow n a rope.

Are te Th e outside edge of a corner, often lacking in cracks, andtherefore protection, which is usually climbed by leaningoff to the side and running the hands and feet up the rock.Jerry's route, Ulysses, at Stanage, is a good example o f anarete climb


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arete climb.

Belay Noun. The stopping points that mark the top of a pitch,

where a leader stops and secures himself to the rock, andeither brings up the second, or abseils off .Verb. Th e act of safeguarding a leader or second by payingout or taking in the rope as the other climbs.

Belayer Th e person wh o belays. Som eone wh o belays a lot , andseldom actually gets to climb, is called a belay bunny orbelay slave.

Bolt A protection meth od consist ing of a dri l led hole, into

which a bolt is screwed, to attach a metal r ing. This allows

protection where no cracks or other natural methods arepossible. Commonly used in Europe, al though i ts use inthe U K or Ame rica is l imited to certain areas or rock types.Where i t strays outside these defined areas, i t can leadtradit ionalists into apoplexy.


Bolt Friend

Karabiner

G L O S S A RY

Bou lderin g A type of climbing, not involving ropes, on short routes

where fall ing is usually with out physical consequence, oftenno mo re than twelve feet high. I t is best suited to powerful,explosive movement rather than long endurance. The safetyand lack of other paraphernalia allows for the very hardestof moves and sequences. A bouldery route is a roped climbwher e the har dest part is a short , very difficult section.

Dy no A dynamic move , where somet imes the whole body losescontact with the rock, f lying upwards to catch holds that areotherwise out of reach. A double-dyno is where bot h han dsleave lower holds simultaneously and catch higher holdstogether, a move often used on a campus board.

Ed ge A small , f lat hold, usually big enoug h comfortably to fi t thefingertips, and generally fairly positive.

Flas h Clim bing a route first try, with no falls , with someknowledge of the moves , o r wi thou t on-sight.

Friend A protec tion device used in tradit ionally-protected climbs,consist ing of a series of spring-loaded cams that expand


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Karabiner consist ing of a series of spring loaded cams that expandinside a crack. Also called a cam.

Gra des Lots of different grading systems are used throu ghou t thisbook. The first one to appear is the tradit ional Brit ishsystem, running from V Diff and Severe, which are lowgrades, to Very Severe and Hard Very Severe, consideredmedium, then in to the Ext reme grades , E l , E2 . . . E7 . Th issystem was used in Britain for many decades, and st i l l is forthe majority of cl imbs. I t takes into account the physicaldifficulty of a climb, as well as its danger, and as such isperfect for bold Brit ish-style climbs. Th e Frenc h system(7b, 7b+, 7c etc) differs from the British system, as it onlydescribes physical difficulty, as that country has less of a

tradit ion of bold climbing. French grades began to be usedfor bolt-protected sport cl imbs in Britain during the 1980s.This change is reflected in the book. German and Australiansystems are much l ike the French one, and can be directlytranslated (see chart overleaf).


G R A D E S

Admittedly quite difficult to understand, this grade table is intended todemonstrate how the various grading systems used in different areas aroundthe world roughly equate to one another.

UKadjectival

ModDiff

VDiff

SH S

vs

HVS

E l

UKtechnical

3c

4a4b

4c

5a

Sb

French

F l /2

F lF2

F3F4

F4+

F5

F5+

F6a

F6a+

US

5.2

5.35.4

5.55.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10

5.10+

Aust

10

1112

1314

15

16

17

18

19

UIAA

I

IIIII

IVIV+V-VvVI-VI

VI+

G L O S S A RY

For bouldering, there is another system, using V grades

(originating in the US) or Font grades (originating inFontainebleau). Again, both these systems are directlycomparable, and better describe the short explosive climbingstyle found in boulder problems.

Com petit io n climbing does n' t use grades, as i t is aboutpitching climbers together on a similar cl imb.

H ex A massive, six-sided fist-sized mon ster of a nut (see nutbelow) favoured by climbers operating in lower grades.Sometimes called a cow-bell .

Jam A way of climbing cracks by insert ing the fingers, hands orfists , and twisting them so that they lock in place. Ouch

Karabiner Th e oval-shaped metal r ing with a sprun g gate used to clip

the rope into bolts, nuts and other protection.

Lead To climb a route with a rope, cl ipping i t into protectio n as

you go, safeguarded by a belayer from below.


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E2

E3

E4

E5

E6

E7

E8

E9

E10

5c

6a

6b

6c

7a

F6b

F6b+

F6cF6c+

F7a

F7a+

F7b

F7b+

F7c

F7c+

F8a

F8a+F8b

F8b+

F8c

F8c+F9a

5.10++

5.11a

5.11b5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c5.14d

20

21

2223

24

25

26

27

28

29

3031

32

33

3435

VII-

VII

VII+VIII-

VIII

VIII+

ix -

IX

IX+

X -

x

x

X I-

XI

Nu t A protection meth od used in tradit ionally-protectedclimbing, consist ing of a length of wire or nylon web bing

with a blob of metal on the end. The metal is slotted intocracks and the rope clipped into them. These originatedfrom the use of engineering nuts by climbers in the 1950sand '60s.

O n - s i g h t Clim bing a route with no know ledge of the route, such aswhere the holds are and what protection is required.

Peg A spike of metal , usually five to ten inches long, that canbe hammered into cracks and holes where other protectionwill not go. I t is perm anen t and can damage rock. Fo r this

reason, i t is often considered unethical , and at certain Brit ishvenues, their use is frowned upon.

Protection Th e pieces of metal that the leader places (nuts, Friends,hexes) or that are already in place in the rock (bolts, pegs),into wh ich a leader clips a rope for security.


P u m p A swelling, mainly in the forearms, caused by strenuous

climbing. Blood collects in the exerted muscles causing a lossof strength, bulging Popeye-like members, and an exquisitepain level.

uickdraw A length of nylon webb ing, 6 to 8 inches long, with akarabiner at each end. This is used as the l ink betweenprotection and the rope, the assembly allowing moreflexibility and less rope drag than just using a singlekarabiner.

Rack A climber 's collection of nuts, Friend s, hexes andquickdraws.

Redpoint In sport cl imbing, a successful ascent in which the climberclimbs from the bo ttom to the top of a climb, clippingthe rope into runners as he goes, and without fall ing orweighting any runners along the way. I t is often precededby rehearsal of the route, resting frequently on all theprotection, or working the moves on top-rope.

Runner A runn ing belay, any of the points along the length of a

G L O S S A RY

Traverse Clim bing sideways as oppos ed to upwa rds.

Undercut An ups ide-down ho ld tha t i s used by tu rn ing th e handaround, palms upwards. These make for very strenuouKclimbing as a lot of force must be used to keep the bodyin place.

Yo - y o A style of cl imbing, once considered to be a valid ascent inBr i ta in , Germany and Amer ica . When the leader falls offa route, he is al lowed to lower to the ground, rest and thentry again with the ropes st i l l cl ipped through the highestprotection. This meant that he would not have to clipthe protection the next t ime, making the climbing easier.How ever, i t was often done by start ing from the gro und,without any abseil inspection of the route or top-ropepractice. I t would be replaced in the 1980s by the Frenchredpointing method of ascent.


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Runner A runn ing belay, any of the points along the length of aclimb where the rope is cl ipped into protection. Runner isoften used as another word for protection.

Second Th e person wh o comes up a route after the leader, cl imbingthe route on top-rope, and removing the protection placedby the leader. I t is an essential part of tradit ional cl imbing.

Slab Rock at an angle that feels less than vertical , whe retechnique and foo twork mat te r more than upper bodys t reng th .

Sport climb A climb protected mainly by bolts or other types ofprotection that are left in place, as opposed to the tradit ional

Brit ish method of leader-placed protection. This generallymakes for very physical , though safe, cl imbs.

Top- rope To climb a route with a rope thro ugh the belay at the top ofthe climb. I t removes any danger or need to clip protection.It is not consid ered a valid ascent.

Revelations 2009 Moffatt

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