CONTENTS

QUALITY ASSURANCE…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2

GARMENT SPECIFICATION……………………………………………………………………………………………….3

STYLE DESCRIPTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………3

FABRIC & TRIM DETAILS………………………………………………………………………………………………… 4

MEASUREMENT CHART…………………………………………………………………………………………………. 5

OREPARTION BREAK DOWN………………………………………………………………………………………….. 6

QUALITY ASPECTS IN DEPT…………………………………………………………………………………………….11

MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING………………………………………………………………………….15

FABRIC SPREADING ………………………………………………………………………………………………………15

FABRIC CUTTING AND BUNDLING………………………………………………………………………………….17

SEWING AND ASSEMBLY……………………………………………………………………………………………….18

FINAL PRESSING AND FINISHING…………………………………………………………………………………..19

TYPES OF DEFECTS………………………………………………………………………………………………………..19

CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….24

REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..25

1

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Introduction

It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their high standards. In addition quality control program can help them in their operations quality control program, spot and reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint production operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.

Quality is

Fit for use

Conformance to requirements

When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy when it is defect free

When it has a long life

When it has good wear ability and wash ability

General quality problem break up:

Sewing : 75% Fabric : 14% Finishing : 10% Others : 1% Total : 100%

Methods of Quality Control:-

1) Testing

2) Inspection

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Inspection:

Inspection may be defined as the visual examination in relation to some standards.

Objective of Inspection

The main objectives of inspection are

Detection of defects Correcting the defects or defective

GARMENT SPECIFICATION

Spec sheetA specification sheet, commonly abbreviated to “spec sheet,” is a technical document that sets out the details of how, exactly, a certain product is intended to perform or function. These sorts of sheets are very common in the information industry, particularly as relates to computer and software design, though they are used in any circumstance where something needs to be built or constructed in a precise way. Construction projects, general manufacturing, and some telecommunications work are all places where this sort of document can be found.

Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of your patterns into finished garments. Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality control.

Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details. We can tailor the format and information provided to suit your company’s individual needs.

STYLE DESCRIPTION

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FABRIC & TRIMS DETAILS

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MEASUREMENT CHART

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OPERATION BREAK DOWN

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QUALITY ASPECTS IN DEPARTMENTS

FABRIC AND TRIM STORE

4 POINT SYSTEM

The 4 point system is generally used for fabric inspection. In this system, points are assigned

for every possible defect in the fabric as follows.

Width wise point criteria Penalty points

Upton 3” 1 point

3-6” 2 points

6-9” 3 points

9” 4 points

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Length wise point criteria Penalty points

Upton 5” 1 point

3-6” 2 points

6-9” 3 points

9” 4 points

Area wise point criteria Penalty points

1X1 cm float 1 point

Upto 1X1 cm hole/stain 2 points

Over 1X1 cm to 2X2 hole/stain 3 points

Over 2X2 cm hole/stain 4 points

Yarn variation/Beam motion/Barre effect Penalty points

Minor 2 points

Major 4 points

• 3 points and 4 points are pointed and are called Cutable defects.

• 1 and 2 point are identified by stickers and panels replaced cutting.

• If defect points/100m3 < 40 then accept the fabric.

• If defect points/100m3 > 40 then reject the fabric.

Major woven defects: slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, and soiled yarns,

wrong warns.

Major dyeing or printing defects: out of register, dye stops, machine stops, color out, color

smear, or shading.

These defects are marked with colored tape so that they can be easily located.

Others Penalty points

Patta Cutable defect

Count or composition variation Cutable defect

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Short end Reject roll

Selvedge loose Reject roll

Wrong drawing Reject roll

Reed marks Reject roll

Temple marks Reject roll

Damaged selvedge Reject roll

Wrong weave Reject roll

FABRIC TESTING

• Fabric Shrinkage

• Color Fastness or Crocking

• Centre Selvedge

This test is used to check the color variation in the fabric. Full width of the fabric is taken

(length can vary according to requirement say 10”). The Fabric is divided into 6 pieces

and their grain line is marked.

These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 1.

When we arrange these fabric pieces in a series, we can see the shade variation in the

same fabric. Noting of this variation is very important at the time of cutting.

Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as compared to stripes and checks.

FABRIC DEFECTS

Abrasion Mark

Double Pick

Oil Stain

Hole

Bow

Skew

Crease

Dye Stain

Miss-pick

Slubs

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Calendar Line

Contamination

TRIM TESTING

Buttons:

Colour fastness

Dry Cleaning

Washing test

Steam Test

Labels:

Colour fastness

Dry Cleaning

Dimension Stability

Physical and Chemical Test

TRIM DEFECTS

Buttons and Labels:

Broken buttons

Misprinted and wrong care labels

Color bleeding labels

DTM buttons not dyed to match

Incorrect size of buttons

MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING

MARKER DEFECTS

Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include

the correct number of parts.

Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a

marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped

fabrics.

Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.

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Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay

not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.

Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the

pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the

pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric.

The pattern may have worn out edges.

Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in

components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.

When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut

with bits missing.

Not enough knife clearance freedom.

Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.

Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial box across the

seam.

Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

FABRIC SPREADING

FABRIC SPREAD

Markers

Marker Placement

Table Marks

Pattern Check

Splices

Narrow Goods

Tension

Leaning

Remnants

Fabric Flaws

Defects

Ends

Spreader should spread rolls according to shade. If two shades must be used in a

spread, tissue paper should be used to separate the rolls.

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Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of

fabric before they are spread.

SPREADING AUDIT

Inaccurate ply count

Wrong color

Wrong marker

End loss exceeds allowance

Inaccurate set up

Improper shading

Wrong cut number

Inaccurate tickets

Four point flaw left in (marked)

Wrinkle

Over Splice

Under Splice

Four point flaw left in (unmarked)

One cutout not utilized in spread remnant

Selvage cutting edge variance >1/2”

FABRIC CUTTING AND BUNDLING

CUTTING AUDIT

• Miscut: Check for miscut or the failure of the Cutter to split the line. Tolerance is

1/16”. Report all defects for miscuts to Cutting Foreman (Supervisor).

• Matching Plies: Check the top ply with the bottom ply to see that they are the same.

Compare both to a hard pattern or paper maker. Tolerance is 1/8”.

• Ragged Cutting: Check for ragged cutting according to the standards of the customer.

It is a judgment defect. It is important on critical parts that if it has to be re-cut then it is a

defect.

• Notches: Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Any

critical notch missing needs to be checked 100%. Tolerance is 1/8”.

• 10% of bundles in a cut should be inspected

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Lot Size 1.5 2.5 4.O 6.5

Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept

Less than 151 8 0 5 0 13 1 8 1

151-280 8 0 20 1 13 1 13 2

280-500 32 1 20 1 20 2 20 3

501-1200 32 1 32 2 32 3 32 5

1201-3200 50 2 50 3 50 5 50 7

3201-10000 80 3 80 5 80 7 80 10

10001-35000 125 5 125 7 125 10 125 14

35001-150000 200 7 200 10 200 14 200 21

150001-500000 315 10 315 14 315 21 200 21

500001 & Over 500 14 500 21 315 21 200 21

SEWING AND ASSEMBLY

INSPECTIONS

• Inline inspection: Our assembly line check points ensure 100% checking is done for the

partially stitched garments and only defect free garments are forwarded to the next stage of

garment manufacturing.

• Roaming inspection: Designated checkers randomly check pieces at each operation along

the assembly line.

• Traffic light inspection system: In this system check each operator is given a card for

measuring their quality performance. The quality checker goes to the operator and

randomly checks a few garments. The inspection result is marked red or green on the card

post scrutiny based on rating criteria.

• End of line inspection or table checking: Our checkers scrutinize each completely stitched

garment at the end of the line. This ensures 100% checking is done for all garments

proceeding to the next stage of garment manufacturing.

• Auditing of checked pieces: Our audit procedure is a checkpoint that ensures that only

100% inspected garments are sent for finishing. This audit also ensures that all defective

pieces are removed from the assembly line.

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COMMON DEFECTS

Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from wrong

functioning of sewing machines.

o Skipped Stitch

o Staggered Stitch

o Unbalanced Stitch

o Variable Stitch

o Open Stitch

o Needle Mark

Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the

interaction of the operator and machine in the handling of garment.

FINAL PRESSING AND FINISHING

FINISHING AUDIT

Initial finishing inspection: During initial finishing we ensure that the garment is scrutinized

prior to being sent for pressing.

• Final finishing Inspection: After the garments have been pressed they are again checked

and sent for tagging and packaging.

• Internal final audit: Our quality control team carries out a final audit of all packed

garments. This audit is carried out to guarantee that before handing over shipment, only top

quality garments reach our clients.

Effective quality control at each process ensures that defective garments are removed

before handing to the next step of garment manufacturing. Our checks ensure that at the

end of production the chances of having a defective garment are slim.

FINISHING DEFECTS

Unwanted marks on fabric

Pin holes

Bowing

Pilling

Water Spots

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Cuts or Nicks

Seam Tears

Streaks

Inadequate Pressing

TYPES OF DEFECTS

Critical Defect - A defect that is likely to result in a hazardous or unsafe condition for an individual using the product or that contravenes mandatory regulations.

Major Defect – A defect that is likely to result in failure; reducing the usability of the product and obvious appearance defects affecting the saleability of the product.

Minor Defect – A defect that does not reduce the usability of the product but is nevertheless a workmanship defect beyond the defined quality standard.

Defect Description Critical Major MinorMaterial Defects - Woven GarmentsWeaving Faults - (broken yarn) XWeaving Faults – (missed yarn) XWeaving Faults – (coarse yarn) X XWeaving Faults – (slub) XWeaving Faults – (neps) XWeaving Faults – (colour dye bars) XWeaving Faults – (colour stripes) XWeaving Faults – (thick place) XWeaving Faults – (thin place) XWeaving Faults – (thick bar) XWeaving Faults – (thin bar) XHoles XFabric torn XPermanent crease lines in fabric XPermanent fold lines in fabric XCleanlinessStain X XOil spots X XOil stain X XWater spots XWater stain X XRust stain XPen mark XPencil mark X XChalk mark X XGlue stain X XGlue mark X XUntrimmed thread ends X

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Loose thread XDust fibres attached on fabric surface XLoose fibres attached on fabric surface XAppearanceColour shade variation X XColour off tone XGlaze XPoor ironing XCrease mark XWrinkle mark XFold mark X XUnmatched checks X XUnmatched stripes X XSewn in wrong fabric direction XSewn in wrong fabric side XWashing mark X XUneven washing effect XBurned X

Defect Description Critical Major MinorScorched XOver pressed (seam impressions) XStretched shape due to pressing XDistorted shape due to pressing XBubbles due to improper fusing XStitching DefectsBroken stitches XSkipped stitches X XRun-off stitching X XUneven stitching X XIrregular stitching X XWavy stitching X XInsecure back stitching XLoose stitch tension X XUneven stitch tension X XUneven stitch density X XMissed stitching XMissed bar tack XUnmatched join stitching X XMissed sewing operation XNeedle chewing(cutting and holes) XSeaming DefectsOpen seam XPuckered seam X XPleated seam XTwisted seam XPuckering X XFrayed edges XFolded seam X

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Seams folded opposite to specified direction XUnaligned seam XUnmatched seam XUneven pleats length X XUneven darts width X XMisplaced bar tacks XUneven seam length X XSeam cracking on stretch fabric XLinking seam cannot stand for stretch XCollar/NeckUneven collar points XMis-shaped collar points XUnbalanced collar XOverlapping collar XBubble in collar fall XBubble in collar stand XUneven collar end XCollar shape not as approved X

Defect Description Critical Major MinorLittle recovery or no elasticity at neck XNeck opening too small for wearing XFront PlacketUneven placket width X XIncorrect placket width XUneven placket length X XVisible under placket X XButton & Button HoleMissed button XBroken button XInsecure button stitching XWrong button XOmitted button hole XIncomplete stitching XUncut button hole XUnaligned button & button hole X XMisplaced button & button hole X XButton stitch not properly locked XSleeve & CuffUneven sleeve length X XUneven sleeve placket length X XUneven sleeve placket width X XNotches exposed at sleeve slit XWrong attachment of sleeve lining XUneven cuff width X XUneven cuff height X XFront/Back Yoke/ShoulderExcess gathering at yoke seam X XUnmatched seams at armhole X X

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Improper gathering at sleeve cap X XPocket & Pocket FlapUnaligned front pockets (hi-low pocket) X XSlanted pocket X XExcess tightness of pocket X XExcess fullness of pocket X XPocket cloth not smooth when bar tacking X XTwisted pocket cloth XPoorly shaped pocket XPoorly shaped pocket corner XMisplaced pocket position X XIncorrect pocket position XExposing pocket corner XIncorrect position of pocket flap XHemTorn at rib XHoles at rib XUneven hem X X

Defect Description Critical Major MinorTwisted hem XWavy hem X XRibbingTorn at ribbing XHoles at ribbing XLittle recovery or no elasticity at ribbing XLiningLining too short or too long XPuckering at lining seam X XTwisted lining XWaistband & Belt LoopUneven waistband (Hi-low waistband) X XPoor waistband finishing X XUneven belt loop X XImproper position of belt loop XMissed belt loop XWaistband stitching broken when stretched XLittle recovery or no elasticity at waistband XSide seam turned wrongly XIrregular hem width X XEmbroideryMissed embroidery XMisplaced embroidery XBroken embroidery stitches XIncorrect embroidery stitch density XUneven embroidery stitching X XColour off shade or not as specified XWrong embroidery XPrinting Defects

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Missed printing XMisplaced printing XPrinting faults – (printing stain) X XPrinting faults – (off printing) XGlitter / diamantes rubbing off print XColour off shade or not as specified XWrong printing XLabels & HangtagsMissed label XMissed hangtag XWrong label XWrong hangtag XLabel insecurely stitched X XLabel folded by stitching X XPart of label sewn inside seam XLabel sewn inverted (label up-side-down) XLabel sewn reversed (label up-side-down) XBrand – no sew in, swing ticket or price ticket X

Defect Description Critical Major MinorBrand – wrong sew in, swing ticket or price XticketBrand – wrong colour sew in, swing ticket or Xprice ticketCare label – no label XCare label – label inaccessible and no details XelsewhereCare label – letter height under 1.5mm XCare label – only symbols used XCare label – not legible XCare label – does not comply with legal XspecificationCountry of Origin – no label XCountry of Origin – label inaccessible and no Xdetails elsewhereCountry of Origin – letter height under 1.5mm XCountry of Origin – does not comply with legal XspecificationFibre Content – no label XFibre Content – label inaccessible and no Xdetails elsewhereFibre Content – letter height under 1.5mm XFibre Content – does not comply with legal XspecificationFire Safety – no label XFire Safety – label obscured and no details on Xpacket or elsewhereFire Safety – not at centre back XFire Safety –each separate piece of garment X

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not labelledFire Safety – incorrect label XFire Safety – does not comply with legal XspecificationAccessoriesScratches X XPoor plating XSharp points XSharp edges XRust XWrong accessories XColour discharged XMalfunction of zipper XZipper slider not running smoothly X XMissed zipper teeth XMissed zipper puller XWavy zipper X XPoor setting of zipper X

Defect Description Critical Major MinorZipper tape too close to fly seam affecting Xzipper functionDetached snap XDetached rivet XDetached stud XSnap too tight to close or open X XSnap too loose to close or open X XFabric torn around snaps XMissed shoulder pads XMisplaced shoulder pads X XMissed Velcro tapes XMisplaced Velcro tapes X XPacking DefectsWrong folding size XWrong folding method XWrong hangtag XWrong tissue paper XMissed hangtag XMissed tissue paper XMissed silica gel XMissed spare button XPolybag torn XBodyExcess gathering at yoke seam X XUnmatched seams at armhole X XImproper gatherings at sleeve cap X XDeformed shape XMeasurementOutside tolerance less than a grade X

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Outside tolerance equal to or more than a XgradeMiscellaneous DefectsWrong size label XOdour XMildew XWet item XDamp item XVisible or disturbing mending places X

CONCLUSION

It is important to maintain a level of quality for every industry or business to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies. Especially for the business engaged in export business has to sustain a high level of quality to ensure better business globally. Companies who are into export business hold the prestige of the country, and due to this generally quality control standards for export are set strictly. It becomes mandatory to have good quality control of their products as export houses earn foreign exchange for the country. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. In this industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, fabric construction, yarn, surface designs, colors fastness and the final finished garment products. The quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.

REFERENCES:

www.Supplierportal.HM.com

www.Globalsourcing.landsend.com

www.fashion2fiber.com

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www.onlineclothingstudy.com

www.slideshare.com

quality manual of matrix sourcing pvt ltd

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