Playground Buenos Aires, Ed 2

8/12/2019 Playground Buenos Aires, Ed 2

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Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! We are pleased to

present our second edition of this new free city guide and magazine. Please use

us how you like: for tips, for the handy map at the back, for romantic nights in, or

for passing bored hours on a plane, train or automobile.

While it might be getting colder in the city, we cant resist feeling a little bit tropical at

the thought of the World Cup being held in neighbouring Brazil this year! World Cup

fever has definitely hit Argentina (as if it ever left) and so weve given you the World

Cup lowdown including a Destination Guide to Brazils host cities and a nifty World Cup

game guide tear-out so you dont have to miss a single match.

We dont want you to leave our beloved B uenos Aires behind though so if you dont get

see the live thing in Brazil, weve also provided the lowdown on the best bars to watch

football in the city. Continuing with the football theme, weve got recommended corks

to pop if your team triumphs (or if you need to forget the result), and our featured artist

Yvonne Kaiser has even gone with a footie theme for this editions unique cover.

For the non-football fanatics out there (we know you exist, although its a tough time of

year to admit it) there is plenty more to feast your eyes and senses on while in Buenos

Aires: whether you want to tread the boards of your first tango dance floor, tuck into

the citys food scene, or just find some peace and quiet where you can get a cup of tea

and let the rugrats loose for a while

When you are done with your Playground Buenos Aires guide, please pass us on to the

next user. We want to get around as much as possible, so if you do like the magazine,

pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone that looks like they read a bit of English

the more hands on us the better! We are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want

to pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and

well get some copies to you. We are free for everyone! We are also keen to hear from

eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are interested in collaborating

in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback or some of your own

favourite playground game ideas, wed love to hear from you!

Un beso!

Playground Buenos Aires

Editor| Amanda Barnes

[email protected]

Design | Pablo [email protected]

Distribution & Sales|

[email protected]

[email protected]

Playground Argentina S.A.,

Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2

Buenos Aires, Argentina

www.playgroundba.com

Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires!

BUENOS AIRES IS YOURPLAYGROUND!


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It Takes Two 06

BA's Baby Food 10

Finding Yoga Bliss 12

The Art of Argentine Slang 14

Artist Prole 18

WORLD CUP SPECIAL

Behind Football Fever 20

Screening BA's Sports Pubs 24

Playground's World Cup Pull Out Chart 26

Destination Guide Brazil 28

A Taste of Brazil in BA 32

Blue is my Colour 33

Scribbles from a Somm 34

The Riddler, The Monk and The Robot 35

Focus On 38

Restaurant Guide 40

Closed Door Restaurant Guide 41

Bar Guide 44

Focus on Cafe Tortoni 46

Playground Tips 48

Map 50

A guide to tango and alternative tango in BA

Where to take your babe in arms and toddlers in the city

The best spots for shavasana in the city

A guide to Lunfardo and Argentine body language

Yvonne Kaiser

The Highs and Lows of Argentine Football

The best places to catch the game

A guide to the best of each World Cup host city

Top spots for Brazilian beats and avour

Poetry from an Argentine fan

Top sparkling wines to celebrate a win

The Sparkling Wine Diaries and what makes wine zz

Palermo Soho

Top spots to eat in the city

Underground Dining

Where to drink and be merry

One of the city's most historical cafes

Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires

COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISHAND ARGENTINE JAMN IN BUENOSAIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMN!

Visit Museo del Jamn in Puerto Maderofor an excellent range of seafood,meat dishes, homemade pasta, saladsand tapas. Try our unique specialtiesincluding Suckling Pig, Salami andHam imported from Spain and the bestproviders in Argentina, and SeafoodFideu. We hope to see you soon!

Open every day from 12 till 12

Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As.(011) 4300- [email protected]

CONTENTS

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7

Rosie Hildertakes us throughthe two step, three step and

kick that heel back right up

your skirt otherwise known

as the forbidden tango

TANGOS ORIGINS

The truth about the origins of tango,

the dance that has captured so many

a heart and driven thousands into a

tango-fueled frenzy, is shrouded in

myth and legend. As the dance began

amongst lower-class immigrants who

did not leave written records, much

of its story relies on guesswork and

the accounts of those from a higher-

social stratum who encountered he

tango later on. Some things,

however, are certain. It is known

that during the late 1800s many men

came to Argentina, lured in by the

promise of a short period of work,

before a swift return to their families,

pockets bursting with cash. In reality,

immigrant life was gritty, difficult and

lonely. The promised riches never

materialised and the triumphant

return home never came. Instead,

impoverished immigrants found

themselves living in large communal

homes called conventillos, often in

Southern neighbourhoods like La

Boca. In these conventillos, homesick

immigrants played music together

to provide respite and entertainment

that transcended language and

cultural barriers. From these musical

gatherings, influenced by Spanish

and African rhythms and the recent

craze for couple dancing in Europe,

the tango was born.

The shortage of women in Buenos

Aires also influenced the tangos

development. Men who wanted to

meet a girl had two choices; they

could get short-term kicks at the

brothel, or try to woo a wife by

showing off their dancing. Mostmen did both. To entertain the bored

and horny men waiting in line at

the brothel, musicians played, and

so it was that men began to dance

the tango together as they waited,

practicing their moves to impress the

girls later on.

It took a while for the tango to enter

mainstream culture in Argentina.

After Argentine sailors travelled to

France and introduced the tango

there around 1912, the dance

became so popular in London, Paris

and New York that upper-class

Argentines were forced to embrace it.

SOCIAL CODES

Rife with social codes and hidden

head nods, the milongacan be a

daunting place. To learn your cabeceo

from your cortina, check out these

top tips.

At traditional milongas, the man must

ask the woman to dance, not the

other way round. The man does this

by scouring the room, when he sees

a woman he wants to dance with; he

nods his head slightly at her, called a

cabeceo. To accept the dance,

she nods back. He will then come

towards her table and the couple

move onto the dance floor together.

If the woman doesnt want to dance

with the man, she simply looks the

other way or pretends she hasnt

seen him. If she sees a man she

does want to dance with, she will try

and catch his eye, and if he doesnt

want to dance with her, he ignores

her gaze. Often, men and women

sit on opposite sides of the room, in

order to facilitate the cabeceo.

Top Tip | Dont forget your glasses oryou might end up missing the vital

signals or nodding at an undesirable

partner.

The music of the milongais divided

into tandas, sets of around five

songs played together. These are

broken up by cortinas, which are

non-tango tracks played in between

tandas. Men usually ask women todance at the start of the tanda, and

the same couple dance together for

the whole tanda. It is extremely bad

form to abandon your partner mid-

tandaand would be a terrible insult to

do so. In between dances, the couple

may exchange a few pleasantries and

at the end of the cortina, each dancer

returns to their table in order to eye

up new potential partners.

Top Tip |Choose your partner wisely;youll have to dance a whole tanda

with them once youve accepted.

Unfortunately, its impossible to tell

if someone sweats excessively, has

bad breath or is likely to stand on

your toes from across the room, so

sometimes youll have to risk it and

hope for the best.

Both sexes may be reluctant to

dance with someone who is new on

the scene, because they dont know

if theyre any good, and they dont

want to have to dance a whole tanda

with a potentially bad dancer. They

will often wait to watch potential

partners dance with someone else

before they ask them themselves.

Top Tip |Ladies, to guarantee adance, hire a taxi dancerfrom acompany like Taxi Dancer Tango(Av. Roque Saenz Pea 1110, Piso 5,

Oficina 2 (1035), 5183 0580, www.taxidancertango.com,ask for aquote). The taxi dancer will act as if

they dont know you, nodding at you

across the room before spinning you

round the dance floor, but youll have

to pay him for the pleasure.

If you go to the milonga as a

couple, also beware that this may

put off other potential dance part-

ners. Couples who want to dance

together usually sit in a different

section of the milonga, away from

the mating ritual of the cabeceo.

Couples who want to dance with

other people, may sit away from

each other.

At modern milongas, these rules

are no longer followed, or are much

more flexible. It is not uncommon inthese tango halls for men or women

to approach each other directly to

ask for dances.

Buenos Aires also has a buzzing gay

tango or Tango Queerscene. Atmilongas gay, dance couples can be

either same or opposite sex, most

dance both the man and womans

part, and they may even switch roles

mid-tanda. Gay or straight, male or

female, anyone can dance with

anyone at Queer Tango. ManyPhotosbyRosieHilder


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straight young women prefer going

to gay milongas, seeing them as

welcome change from the macho

culture of more traditional tango halls.

TANGO SHOWS

For an authentic street tango

experience that costs just a few

pesos, head to San Telmo street fair

on a Sunday. Here, you can watch

street performers dancing and

singing tango for tips. As night

comes and the market winds down,

locals flock to the makeshift milonga

in Plaza Dorregoand dance the nightaway beneath colourful street lights.

Another atmospheric open-air tango

spot is La Glorieta(11 de Septiembrey Echeverra, 4674 1026, Saturdays

and Sundays, from 8pm, free), where

tango-lovers gather on a bandstand

in leafy Belgrano for free classes

followed by a practica.

To see a reasonably priced, quality

tango show, head to the famous

Caf Tortoni(Avenida de Mayo 825,4342 4328, www.cafetortoni.com.ar, shows every day, 8.30pm, $180).This historic caf is also a good spot

for a hot chocolate and churrosand

is home to the Academia Nacionalde Tango. The Academia has tangoclasses and the informative tango

museum the Museo Mundial DelTango(Avenida de Mayo 825, piso1, 4345 6967, Mon-Friday 2.30pm -

7.30pm).Cultural centreCentroCultural Borges(Viamonte 500,5555 5359, www.ccborges.org.ar, every day from 8pm, from $100)also has a variety of excellent tango

shows that wont break the bank.

Although the Esquina Carlos GardelTango Showin Abasto (CarlosGardel 3200, 4867 6363, www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar, everyday, dinner 8.30, show 10.30, from

US$96)is something of a tourist

trap, this well organised event does

exactly what it says on the tin, and

it does it well. The evening starts

with an optional dinner and climaxes

with a professional and enjoyable

tango show full of glitz, glamour and

plenty of passion. Over in San Telmo,

Bar Sur(Estados Unidos 299, 43626086, www.bar-sur.com.ar , everyday from 9pm, show $600, show and

dinner $800) has a similar touristy

vibe. Skip the overpriced dinner,

there are plenty of better options in

the neighbourhood, and arrive in time

for the up close and personal show at

this cosy historic bar.

At the high-end of the market, Faena

Hotels Rojo(Martha Salotti 445,4952 4111, www.rojotangoshow.com, every day, dinner 8.30pm,show 10.00pm, dinner and show

US$250, show US$185)has got it

all: gorgeous, intimate venue, top-

notch service, excellent food and

a superb tango show with a live

orchestra, five extremely talented

couples, and tango singers to boot.

A night at Rojo is not cheap, but it

will not disappoint. To avoid missing

out, make sure you reserve well in

advance.

MILONGAS AND TANGO CLASSES

Note that the dance you see at a

tango show is show tango and is

very different to the everyday tango

danced in milongas. For an authentic

tango experience, dont miss going

to a milonga. The entry usually costs

around $50 and most nights have

some sort of performance later on

in the evening. Youll have to hang

around till at least midnight to catch

the orchestra, dancing or singing

show, but those who can stay awake

will be glad they did.

The following milongasalso all havetango classes, which cost around

$40, followed by a practica. During

the practica, you can practise the

steps you learned in the class in an

informal setting. This is useful as you

can stop mid-dance to try out your

moves, while at the milongathis is

not acceptable. Most teachers are

used to tourists and speak at least

some English. If you are going to

just the milonga and not the class

or practice, its best to call ahead to

reserve a table.

Traditional milongasinclude El Beso(Riobamba 416, 4953 2794, Tuesday,

Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday,

Sunday. Times vary)and SalonCanning(Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, 48268351, Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays),

both popular with a loyal crowd

whose ages range between 30 to 70.

These milongasare firmly rooted in

the local community and are

fantastic for people watching, trying

to decipher tangos social codes and

seeing high-quality tango danced

by the people who live, breathe and

dream the dance. La Confiteria Ideal(Suipacha 384, 4328 0474, www.confiteriaideal.com, see websitefor schedule)is one of citys grand

cafes, which flourished in the Golden

Era and is now charming, beautiful

and dilapidated. They have affordable

shows and classes, plus an afternoon

milongamost days of the week.

Hosted in the Armenian club in Paler-

mo, La Viruta(Armenia 3116, 47790030, www.lavirutatango.com,see website for schedule) is a mix

between a traditional and modern

tango hall, depending on the day and

the crowd, and has a range of classes

and milongas, plus rock and salsa

classes.

Modern milongas are popular with a

young, hip crowd who are not afraid

to experiment with different tango

styles. Set in a trendy converted

house in Almagro, DNI(Bulnes 1011,4866 6553, www.dni-tango.com,Mondays to Saturdays, 10am - 9pm)

offer a range of great value group and

private classes, including a relaxed

Saturday afternoon practica, and alsohave a funky tango shoe and clothes

shop on site. In the same

neighbourhood, bohemian

La Catedral(Sarmiento 4006, 155325 1630, www.lacatedralclub.com, every day 6pm - 4am) ishoused in what looks like a school

gymnasium hijacked by art students.

Paintings and sculptures cover every

available space, and anything goes

with the eclectic, energetic crowd.

There are also folklore classes and

an excellent range of vegetarian food.

Down in San Telmo, Buenos AyresClub(Peru 571, 4331 1518, everyday 9pm - 2am) is open every night.

Mondays night bendita milonga

(blessed milonga) and Wednesdays

maldita milonga (damned milonga),

both have a class, followed by a

milongawith impressive live music

and a mixed crowd. On Tuesdays, its

Tango Queer night, which includes

a class followed by a milonga. Other

recommendable gay tango nights

are La Marshall(Riobamba 416,4583 3423, www.lamarshall.com.ar, class 10.30pm, milonga 11.30pm)on Fridays or Bayres Folk(15 56541658, Alsina 2540, 19.30 folklore

class, 20.30 tango class, 10.15pm

- 1.00 practica) a gay tango and folk

event in Balvanera on Wednesdays

(Alsina 2540) and in Palermo(Uriarte1271) on Saturdays.

Top Tip |To find out whats on where,download the free English-language

app Milonga Hoy or pick up a copy

of Tanguera magazine at any tango

venue.

ONE WEEKIN TANGO

Whatever the day and time, theres

tango happening somewhere in the

city. For the best tango week of your

life, dance your way to the following:

MONDAYBuenos Ayres Club

TUESDAYLa Catedral

WEDNESDAYBayres Folk

THURSDAYConfiteria Ideal Tango Ideal

FRIDAYSalon Canning

SATURDAYDNI (afternoon), El Beso(evening)

SUNDAYLa Glorieta

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Photo by Svetozar Andic


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11

ANIMAenowned for their delicious array of cupcakes (arguably

he best in BA) Anima offers a tranquil space to meet for a

offee, cake or sample from an extensive brunch menu.

he coffee is strong and smooth (as per the above) and

ou can combine with the usual medialunasor

ostadosfor breakfast or opt for the home made granola

nd yoghurt. If things are going really bad with your little

arlings why not treat yourself to one of the indulgent

akes or cookies and slowly relax into a sugar coma.Dulce de lecheand chocolate obviously abound but there

s also carrot cake, red velvet, Oreo cookie cupcakesall

mouth wateringly displayed.

he dcor is minimal with a Scandinavian feel; lots of

pace, light and simplicity, eliciting a calming affect on the

most harried mum. Ideal for meeting friends with babes

n arms and if you have older kids the cakes should keep

hem occupied for a while!

N.B. As if often the case here, there is no changing

tation but staff were relaxed about using one of the

ables out the back. Too good to miss!

Anima, Pea 2665, Pea and Juncal. 15 59 246 672 // 15

60 021 441 // 4805 8005. www.animacakes.com

PLAYFor those with slightly older children, this brilliant caf/

creative space runs workshops downstairs to occupy

your child as you either look on or, praise be, venture to

the quiet sanctity of upstairs. Here, caffeine IV safely in

place you can slowly come to your senses, catch up with

a friend or possibly attempt some work. AR$70 per hour

for the playroom, plus a small array of cakes and drinks

available upstairs. The gate to the playroom is locked so

you can relax about the fact they are out of sight.Several energetic, bilingual staff members are on hand

to supervise the children in activities including: painting,

playing with foam or sand as well as the usual cars,

playhouse with slide, balls, kitchenettepossibly due to

the fact it recently opened but facilities and toys are clean

and well kept. Impressive!

Play offers a wonderful concept but you may just find your

progeny want to hang off you and refuse to join in (as

happened with me) leaving you with two kids to look

after, none of the comforts of home and little chance to

attack that slice of marble cake.

Play, Juncal 1432, Juncal and Parana. 4816 6666

CASA MUASituated in an ornate corner building of Palermo Viejo,

this cafs secret weapon is its playroom! Available for

kids to roam wild, mums can view the action through a

glass wall and attempt to enjoy their coffee and catch up

with friends without being drawn in to resolve the latest

toddler dispute. The selection of toys is a little jaded but

playroom use is free and staff relaxed.

Great staples such as toasties, pizzas, salads and

wonderful juices and smoothies aswell as coffees are

available. After 4pm is the Meriendamenu only which is a

little on the sweet side. If they havent sold out there is a

tasty selection of different pan integralin contrast to the

staple pan de trigo. Plus outside seating.

The great news is that there is a baby change facility

(upstairs) but if youre coming with a push chair on a busy

afternoon, it can seem like an adult version of Tetris trying

to coordinate seating, hold baby and manoeuvre push

chairs in and out of tight spaces. Only less fun. Waiters at

the most recent visit were young males who, strangely

for Porteos, seemed oblivious to our logistical stress and

were not that helpful.

Casa Mua,Soler 4202, Soler and Julian Alvarez, 4862

7561www.facebook.com/casa.mua

BIO CAFWith its white and lime green walls, bamboo, Buddhas

and high ceilings redolent of a yogic shrine this caf is

a wonderful place to go for a cup of tea, snack, lunch

or dinner. If youve grown tired of medialunas, tostadas

and steaks, head here for an inventive selection of super

healthy salads, noodles, pizzas and soups.

Also a rarity in BA is its range of healthy infusions aiding

digestion or fighting fatigue. If youre feeling run down

and bedraggled, just perusing the menu will make you

feel lighter. That said, its not all wheatgrass shots and

self-restraint; there is a long dessert menu including

tapioca pancakes with red fruits, flans, sesame and ginger

ice creams. For something more filling and savoury there

are lentil burgers and delicious bruschettas. Homemade

wholemeal bread with tapenade is served as standard in

a cork bowl. Bike racks and seating outside. You can also

purchase some of their niche health products. Whats not

to love?A slight drawback is the lack of baby changing and narrow

entrance which can prove tricky with pushchairs but

its worth it if you are feeling in need of a healthy, tasty

alternative to the norm. Best for babes in arms. Or better

still leave the kids at home and come of an evening with

your partner.

Bio Caf, Humboldt 2192, Humboldt and Guatemala,

4774 3880.www.biorestaurant.com.ar

LA PAYUCAThe owners of this otherwise slick looking parrilla y horno

de campotook the ingenious decision to include a large

day-glo playroom on its upper floor. Entrance to the room

is free if you order either a kids meal or snack. Keen to

avoid a toddler food-throwing session due to

overtiredness, we arrived as the doors were opening at

noon and were ushered to the tables adjacent to the

playroom. By the time our food arrived, eight further

tables had been filled with similarly exhausted looking

parents accompanying children under six.

As well as the usual cuts available there were delicious

alternatives such as pork with plums and apple. Life-

affirming Provencale fries (with garlic and rosemary) also

a must.

Helpfully, the playroom is also open from 16-19h to

accompany their Mate bar. So Mum can sit, chat and

refuel with a friend whilst the kids cause chaos in a safe

space. Families are usually squirrelled away adjacent

to the room. If you are seated further away there is a

camera zoomed in on the playroom entrance allowing

you to check your children arent escaping or getting into

a ruckus, via a screen further down. BA needs more of

these spaces.

La Payuca, Arenales 3443, Arenales y Bulnes,

www.lapayuca.com

CANT PRIOne of the best options for children over toddler age,

this great little caf is open from mid afternoon into the

evening serving a variety of wholesome but child-friendly

dishes including pastas, pizzas, milanesa, chicken and

chips. Fixed to the walls are a variety of retro wooden

games and stacked up on shelves are countless board

games. The seats and tables are basic formica and plastic

in brightly coloured hues: the focus is definitely more on

the child here but when they are amused and well-fed,

parental contentment follows!

If younger siblings are accompanying the outing, good

news! There is a changing station and staff are

extremely helpful and understanding. There is a punchy,

free lemonade with the 20 pesoentrance fee. Upstairs is

a space that can be hired out for private parties and a

series of rainbow-coloured cakes dusted with hyperactivity

inducing sprinkles was seen being dispatched to a group of

baying 3 year olds. Well, this is Argentina after all!

Cant Pri,Chacras 5216, Chacras and Bonpland, 4777

7236,www.cantepri.com

In a city with such a love affair and relaxed attitude to

children its good to know there are a few spots to go to

when you want to go out en famille. As all mothers know

however, sometimes its easier to stay at home with

distractions and amusements to hand, and all the

equipment for a radioactive poo. I am still yet to find a

caf where water and cushions are freely proffered to

breast-feeding mothers with a guaranteed baby change

and buggy park. I sense a gap in the market but until

then these spaces offer a reasonable middle ground for you

to enjoy some time out of the house with your children

and have some one else cook and clean up for you!

Living in BA with babies or small childrenand in need of some time out? Wantto combine tending to your little oneswhilst also discovering more of the Porteoaf culture? You might think that the

attempt to organise a successful sortie fromhome is akin to a military operation. You

may scoff in derision at the suggestion youhave the time and energy to lounge aroundpeople-watching in a caf when youre luckyif you brushed your teeth. But wait! Hereare a few ideas to whet the appetite, refuelbefore the next tantrum and get you out ofthe confines of your four walls.

Helen Applebyis a yoga teacher,massage therapist, writer andlooks after two small boys in her

spare time.

www.onawingandaprayerblog.

wordpress.com


7/27

Although better knownfor tango dance, steak,and malbec wine,Buenos Aires is rapidlybecoming a hot spot foryoga as well. A leisurelystroll through thePalermo, Las Caitas,Recoleta, and SanTelmo neighborhoodswill reveal a plethora ofyoga studios and sports

clubs offering classes inevery style including:bikram, hatha, vinyasa,ashtanga, iyengar,kundalini, and more.Finding yoga classesmight not be hard, butchoosing a studio thatsuits your physical andspiritual needs can be. Tohelp you find your yogamojo weve puttogether a list of some ofthe best yoga studios inBuenos Aires.

URBAN LOTUS

Is an adorable studio located on the second floor of an

old French style building in Palermo Hollywood. The main

yoga classroom is a warm and inviting space featuring

hardwood floors and large windows with several tiny

balconies covered in planter boxes brimming with bright

red flowers. Urban Lotus features hatha, iyengar, ashtan-

ga, restorative, and purna yoga classes, ideal for those

seeking variety within their practice. A drop-in class is

about $80 AR and monthly membership starts at $250 AR

for one class per week.

The eh part |Classes are less frequently offeredthroughout the day compared to other studios. Likewise,

the majority of classes are the slower varieties of yoga,

(ex. Hatha, Iyengar) which are good for improving muscle

flexibility, concentration, relaxation and breathing, but are

usually less physically challenging. If you want a workout,

the ashtanga class is really your only option.

The best part |Shavasana. Yoga classes typically endwith a final pose called shavasana, in which everyone lays

on their back allowing the mind and body to relax and

reset itself. Whats so special about that? Well, at Urban

Lotus shavasana is all about pampering your body. They

provide complimentary fleece blankets, lavender scented,

therapeutic eye masks, and calming face and neck massa-

ges as you rest in your final pose. Its also not uncommon

for the teacher to light candles and incense or lightly spray

scents in the air to help inspire relaxation. It is the most

luxurious shavasana imaginable and you will leave feeling

and smelling like a goddess.

Fitz Roy 2207 - Palermo, Buenos Aires

Tel (54) 5294-5032

www.urbanlotuspalermo.com

Language(s) spoken | Spanish

VALLE TIERRA

Is a staple for yogis in Buenos Aires. They offer a robust

schedule of yoga classes in every style of practice, as

well as workshops, books, and oodles yoga paraphernalia.

They are located in the charming Palermo Soho neighbor-

hood, directly next to plaza Armenia, so after breaking a

sweat, turning yourself into a human pretzel, and finding

inner peace you can take a seat in the park, sip mate, and

enjoy the lively, yet laid back pace that permeates Buenos

Aires. Drop-in classes are $150 AR and a monthly-unlimi-

ted pass costs about $600 AR.

The eh part | This is going to sound harsher than itsmeant to be, but there is a lack of spirituality and warmth

at Valle Tierra compared to other studios in Buenos Aires.

The teachers emphasize the physicality of yoga over the

mental and spiritual components. Some people really en-

joy this style of class, but if you crave the yoga high, you

know that mind numbing, body humming feeling that

you sometimes get after a great class, you probably wont

find that at Valle Tierra. It is a great studio for helping you

master advanced yoga poses, but better to look elsewhe-

re for enlightenment.

The best part | The Valle Tierra studio is a large and beau-tiful space (think Zen gardens and waterfall instillations)

ideal for practicing yoga. Multiple rooms allows for several

yoga classes to be taught at once, which means that at

any time of day you can find a class that fits your schedule

and fitness needs. Experienced teachers facilitate classes

in hatha, ashtanga, kundalini, iyengar, cardio, and Bhajan

(childrens yoga); and push their students to perfect each

yoga pose. Of all the studios visited, this one stands out

as the best bet for bringing your yoga to the next level.

Costa Rica 4562

Palermo, Buenos Aires

Tel (54) 4833-6724/1222

www.valletierra.com

Language(s) spoken | Spanish and English

BUENA ONDA

Is the Argentine equivalent of Mecca for expat and travel-

bug yogis. The studio operates in 3 neighborhoods of Bue-

nos Aires including, Las Caitas, San Telmo and Recoleta.

Each location typically has one class per day, which they

teach IN ENGLISH to students from all over the world.

The yoga studio spaces are warm and inviting, as are the

teachers, who instantly make you feel like youre part of a

community and not just a tourist trying to stay fit on vaca-tion. In addition to their usual yoga classes, they regularly

offer fun and interesting workshops on health, fitness,

and wellbeing. Your first drop-in class will set you back

$80 pesos, its $160 AR for each drop-in afterwards, and a

monthly unlimited pass costs about $800 AR.

The eh part |Almost all the classes at Buena Onda arevinyasa, a fluid, movement-intensive practice in which the

teachers choreograph their classes to smoothly transition

from pose to pose, often to music. Its a popular and well-

known style of yoga, but if youre looking to try different

styles you may want to consider a studio that offers a

variety of yoga practices. That said, no t wo vinyasa clas-

ses are the same, so theres still a lot of room for variation

in each class depending on the instructor and theme of

the class that day. Its also worth noting that Buena Onda

is a little bit pricier than other yoga studios. Think of it as

the price you pay for taking classes in English and not

Spanish.

The best part | Buena Onda is not just a yoga studio its a community. Unlike other studios where you come

in, take class and then leave, Buena Onda is the type of

place where people talk casually before class and grab

dinner afterwards. The classes themselves are physically

challenging and often spiritually invigorating. They are

complimented with regular workshops and retreats that

focus on various aspects of health and wellbeing. Buena

Onda literally translates to good wave in Spanish, but in

the context of a person or situation it means good ener-

gy or vibe. Buena Onda yoga studio lives up to its name

in every way, offering enjoyable and friendly yoga classes

to people from all walks of life.

Multiple locationsLas Caitas (Gorostiaga 1776),

San Telmo (Balcarce 958),

Recoleta (Jean Juares 1193)

[email protected]

www.buenaondayoga.com

Language(s) spoken | English and Spanish

Buenos Aires is a bustling metropolis that can feel a bit

overwhelming at times. Fortunately, yoga provides the

ideal escape from all the traffic and chaos during your stay

abroad. And Buenos Aires is a city full of options for those

looking to get their yoga on, so dont be afraid to mix and

match different studios and practices until you find the

right fit for you. Besides, once youve exhausted all of the

yoga options in Buenos Aires, theres always Eco Yoga

Park (www.ecoyogapark.com),an inspiring yoga retreat

center just 40 miles outside of the city.

Lauren Mineris a writer and consultantfrom the US living in Argentina. She enjoyssushi, dance, yoga and travel and you can

read about her attempts at healthy living

while in the land of empanadas at Active

Expat. www.activeexpat.com

13

WHERE TO GET YOUR YOGA GEAR

AXA |Products and devices for practicing yoga,Monday to Friday 08:30 - 19:30. Bouchardo 2756

CAMPANIA INTERIOR |Yoga attire and accessories.Monday to Saturday from 11:00 - 20:00. Armenia 1532

SOWNNE | Fitness ware. Av. Luis Jose de Chorroarin 965 A

VALLA TIERRA | Classes and products for practicing yoga,Monday to Saturday 8:30 to 21:00. Costa Rica 4562

STOCK CENTER |Chain of 22 sports articles stores in cityand suburbs. Major brands. Av. Cabildo 2080


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715

. Saying helloCheis the word Argentines use to call each other, a bitke hey in English, and is usually used at the start of aentence. It is often followed by boludo, which can meanriend, mate or idiot, depending on the context.

2. Booze and partyinghere are lunfardowords for lifes essentials: morfi food,irra beer, pucho cigarettes, boliche nightclub and bondibus. Perhaps you might wait for the bondias you smokepucho, and think about the birra youre about to have withour morfi,before going to a boliche.

3. Girls and BoysMina, pibe and chabnare slang for boys and girls. A malean be a pibe, or a chabn, a female a mina, piba orchabna.

4. Being coolsomeone refers to you as a grosso/a, capo/a or copado/a

ou should definitely not be offended, these words mean

person is cool and are the highest of compliments inunfardo.

5. Making ExcusesTengo fiacaliterally translates to I have laziness and is oftensed as an excuse to get out of engagements. Anotherseful word is colgado/a, which means flaky, and me colgu

means I flaked, another acceptable excuse as to why youidnt do something

6. Disastern the early 1900s, quilombowas used to refer to Argentinewhorehouses; nowadays the term means mess or disaster.

Es un quilombo!is slang for: Its a total mess. This will stillaise the eyebrows of some grannies on the block though.

7. FlirtingThe art of chamuyoor smooth-talking, is a skill that seems tocome naturally to most porteomen. Useful related phrasesare: sos un chamuyero youre a smooth-talker or dej dechamuyarme stop trying to fool me/chat me up. Otheruseful flirting phrases includetirar onda which means to flirtof send someone good vibes, and touch and go, a phrase fora one-night stand or casual sexual relationship.

8. BallsA lot of lunfardorelates to a mans balls, yet men andwomen alike refer to their pelotasor bolas with phrasessuch as rompe bolas ball breaker or hincha pelotas aball itcher, or someone annoying. Que hincha pelotas!translates literally to how you make my balls itch, or Whata ball breaker!. They are also referred to as huevos (eggs)which can often cause entertaining translation errors inconversation.

9. MoneyThere are several words to talk about cash. MangosareArgentine pesos, guitais money and a luca, one thousand

pesos. No tengo ni un mango, would mean Im totallybroke/I dont even have one peso but it is more fun to thinkabout said person being sad about not even having one tasty

mango.

10. FartingPedomeans fart, and lunfardois littered with fart-relatedvocabulary. En pedo(in fart) means drunk, ni en pedo(noteven in a fart) translates to not even if I was drunk. Otherphrases include estoy al pedo(I am at fart) Im not doinganything and vive en un nube de pedos (he/she lives in acloud of farts) - meaning they have their head in the clouds.

CUIQUI - To suggest that someone is scared, or hascuiqui, press your fingers against your thumb repeatedly. The

motion is said to represent the anus muscles contracting infear.

When to use it -Before your friend gets up to show offtheir tango moves for the first time.When not to use it -As part of your dance routine.

NI IDEA -The Argentine equivalent of the shouldershrug, to say you dont know something, place your righthand under your chin and then move it away from your body.

When to use it - When someone asks you which bus theyneed to get to the outskirts of the city.When not to use it - In answer to Why did you come toArgentina?

It began as a whisper amongprisoners, homesick immigrantsand some of the first tangueros, butlunfardo, or Buenos Aires slang hasnow permeated popular culture tothe extent that porteosof all agesand social classes use its thousandsof words and phrases. Much

lunfardo is accompanied by handgestures, a true porteoshows noemotion without waving their handsaround, and can be roughly divided

into categories regarding the mostimportant aspects of Argentine life.

While silly words might be a Porteosforte, do not underestimate the powerof the gesture either. Heres a quick fireguide to getting yourself understoodwith the ultimate BA body language:

So you thought youunderstood Spanish?

Rosie Hilder teachesyou how to really talk the

talk in Buenos Aires with aquick pick oflunfardo.

When British journalistRosiemoved to BAfour years ago she fell in love with its vibrant

streets, relaxed lifestyle and dulce de leche

ice cream. In her free time she enjoysphotography, storytelling and writing songs

about board games. www.rosiehilder.com


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10/27

When did you realise that you wan-

ed to become an artist?

ince I was a young girl I alwayselt a bit different: in my choice of

ames in which I always imaginedifferent worlds, voices, gnomesnd I drew a lot. My father livedn the US and I sent him drawingsnstead of letters.hen I studied art and I always,lways drew, painted or saw lifehrough an artists view: from theolours in a salad, to the colours inlothes, in the clouds my entireeality was constucted by what wasreative, picturesque or artistic.ut the moment when I took the de-ision to be an artist, I think it was

some time between 15 and 42 yearsold. Somewhere around then

Was your path to being an artist a

natural one?

To be an artist was a natural act,from my essence. I couldnt see theworld in any other way.

Is it easy to be an artist in

Argentina? What are the

advantages or disadvantages?

The advantages are personal: thiscountry has something irreplaceablethat forms parts of the emotionalrecipe for my paintings. It gives mea nest to develop in.

It is difcult to live off art in

Argentina though, it is a very uniquemarket but there is an enormouscreative genious in this country.There are many things to play

with and develop, and this is verystimulating.The disadvantages are that at timesyou cant nd support from

cultural politics, and that you cantnd some of the art materials or

they are very expensive buteverything can be resolved!

What are the themes you most like

exploring in your art?

Everything has to do with conciousexperiences or dreams. I like to

observe clouds for a long time, andwhen I paint them, ideas come fromthe clouds. I dont copy what isnatural, they are images that arerecreated internally: owers, drops

of water, balloons, gazes andgestures of people especiallychildren and animals, they are mysiblings and companions.Everything forms part of the story ofimages that I bring to the painting.It is normal that I dream part of thepiece of art something appears inthe night, and then I take it to thecanvas. It always happens when Ipaint people and characters, thatthey appear at some moment! Theyare beings that I dont know, butthey look to be born.

What is a normal day in the life of

an artist?

I dont know about the rest, but mydays start very early because I adoremornings. I like to smell the aromasof the morning: the leaves, the rain,the humidity, the grass. Coffee with

vanilla, toasted bread, the sweet-

ness of a homemade jam. Then Imeditate, I need half an hour for it otherwise I cant start. In meditationI create my own space of vitality,from nutrition to order. I alsoalways do reiki to myself or others,and yoga.I also prepare art classes and giveclasses in primary school too.Working with children is a pleasurefor me.Every day music is present, I listento music for many hours fromclassical to Radiohead, Sigur Ross,Aristimuo, The Beatles, JazzI also enjoy silence though.

Do you think that there is a most

creative period in ones life?

In general I think that children aremuch more creative than adults.

What period of Argentinas history

do you think was the most creative?

I think when they opened the rst

art schools, and a European wave

of immigrants moved here. Then

in the 60s, and now. In reality Ithink that there is a great openessto new technologies and new waysof expressing yourself. There areless prejudices about art, aboutwhat is beautiful, useful or deco-rative. There are many differentpaths. I think that this period isincredibly rich to observe, learnand inspire people to create withtheir own voice.What message would you give to

yourself as a 16 year old?

I would leave a message in a bottlethat says Learn to enjoy everymoment, life offers them to you toenjoy. Savour every experience,dont run when it is not necessary.Listen to your breathing, yourbody, jump, dance, shout, sing, sitdown and think Fall in love manytimes and open your heart. Takeit in, embrace it. Art is the act ofbelieving in every gesture of yourday and night. Every being has thepower to decide how to travel their

path. Good luck and God bless.

Artist prole ///YVONNE KAISER

nterview by AMANDA BARNES

Louise

his editions artist is Yvonne Kaiser,

n artist and teacher who usually works

with paintings.

You can see

more of

her work

yvonne.kaiser.589

[email protected]

www.ickr.com/photos/31044493@N0819

Despedida

Hoyfuncin

Conversacinsilenciosa

Lunasdeftbol

Volando

Sara

Buscando


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12/27

omestic Primera Divisin were

anned from attending games

n the Buenos Aires province

ollowing the fatal shooting of a

upporter. The Club Atltico Lans

an was killed by a rubber bullet

red from a policeman and was

ne of 15 football related deaths

ccurring in 2013 according to the

NGO Salvemos al Ftbol (AFP) -

rompting an extreme response

rom the AFA, Argentinas football

ederation.

his ban did not apply to teams

perating within the capital city

self, meaning two of the countrys

most prominent outfits, Boca

uniors and River Plate, still enjoy

eated rivalry on and off the pitch

uring the famous Superclsico

erbies. Both clubs have origins in

a Boca, the working class dockland

rea of Buenos Aires with River

ounded four years earlier in 1901.

parks flew when River relocated

o the more affluent district of

Nez and as a result the team

was coined Los Millonarios(TheMillionaires), further alienating the

ans from Boca, called Xeneizes Genosese) referring to the local

alian immigrant community which

till forms the crux of the clubs

upport.

Each club in the top flight possesses

a section of ultra hard-core fans.

These infamous foot soldiers of

football are the barras bravasand

spread fear throughout the land.

Well organised and sometimes

violent, each intimidating network of

supporters wields almost unfettered

power over the multi-million-pound

business of football in Argentina.

Sadly mob violence and aggression

is still utilised by the barras bravas

to harvest tens of thousands of

dollars from every game through

illegal rackets, money laundering

and drugs. The more successful

and lucrative each particular club

becomes, the more the fans claim

as their own. Gustavo Grabia, an

Argentine journalist who has spent

years delving into the underground

world of Argentine football and

corruption, estimates that the largest

barras bravasreceive anywhere up

to 30 percent of transfer fees when

a player leaves, and up to 20 percent

of some footballers salaries.

The reputation of Argentine

supporters and the events leading

up to the ban prohibiting away

supporters travelling to top flight

matches has spilled over ontoWorld Cup preparations. Brazilian

authorities, together with Interpol

and police from neighbouring

countries have expressed concern

about allowing members of the

barras bravas into Brazil to support

Argentina, fearing severe unrest

and confrontations between

opposing sets of fans. A selection

of the supporters, considered the

most dangerous members of the

organisations, have been placed in

the so-called risk group and are

being closely monitored with a view

to banning them from the greatest

footballing event on Earth.

However, the lawyer representing

the Hinchadas Unidas Argentinas

(Argentine United Supporters

Union) - which brings together more

than 30 groups of barras bravas-

confirmed that 650 members of

the group will be granted access to

Brazil to support the national side

as it tries its best to take home gold

this year.

On the flipside the majority ofArgentina will be willing their team

to win in the safety of their homes

or from the hundreds

of watering holes

that are scattered

throughout

Buenos Aires.

The atmosphere

will be electric

and as always, the

World Cup is set to

unite nationalities the

world over.

23

1/220 cm x 14,25 cm

1/810 cm x 7,125 cm

1/420 cm x 7,125 cm

1/165 cm x 7,125 cm

1/165 cm x 7,125 cm

Playground Buenos Aireses una nueva revistacon un alcance de 30,000 copias por edicin! Larevista se reparte gratuitamente en ubicacionesclaves para llegar a los turistas descubriendo ydisfrutando Buenos Aires y Argentina.

Contactanos para saber ms sobrePlayground Buenos Aires

[email protected]@playgroundba.com

ANUNCIATE AQU !

23


13/27

25

As one would expect in a city as sports-mad as

Buenos Aires, there are a number of bars to

choose from and with the 2014 FIFA World Cup

ust around the corner, finding one nearby is never going

o be more important. However, finding a good one is

ot easy.

amiliar sports bar shortcomings poor service,

ackadaisical scheduling and overpriced, bland drinks re commonplace, and give the experience of watching

elevised sport in the city a somewhat bittersweet

aste. It does not help that most Porteosare not really

nterested in watching sport in public, leaving these

aunts more or less exclusively to tourists.

y way of an explanation, it is worth remembering that

he culture of watching sport in bars is relatively new. In

he United Kingdom, at least, regular televised football

was a rarity until the mid-1990s, when the games rapid

entrification priced out the traditionally working-class

anbase and forced it into pubs. This process is yet to

appen in Argentina so if people want to see their

teams match, the vast majority can simply go to the

stadium and watch it.

Furthermore, the fact that almost all top-flight domestic

matches are screened on terrestrial television

through the Ftbol Para Todos(football for everyone)

programme means two things: firstly, that fans who are

unable or unwilling to make the trip to the stadium do

not need to leave their comfort of their home to watchthe action; secondly, that most bars cannot claim an

advantage over others by showing live football and so

devote little energy to doing so.

Nonetheless, there are several viable options. Here are

five of the best.

EL ALAMO(Uruguay 1175, Recoleta)

Pros | A massive array of sport is on offer at this hugelypopular American-owned bar. If you are looking for

somewhere to watch a game with all-but guaranteed

coverage, cheap drinks and a mostly English-speaking

clientele, this is by a distance your best bet.

Cons | If youre interested in actually watching thematch more than mingling or getting steaming drunk, the

crowds for major sporting events can be too big and too

raucous. Additionally, the fact that the locals stay well

clear gives it the feel of a North American enclave.

GIBRALTAR(Per 895, San Telmo)

Pros | If you have come from the UK and find yourselfmissing home, this well-known watering hole will be

comfortingly familiar. A pub in the true English style,

the Gibraltar offers a good range of drinks at reasonable

prices and excellent grub, too.

Cons | There are only two televisions in the bararea and, as with El Alamo, the crowds are regularly

uncomfortably big. On those occasions, simply getting

served or catching a glimpse of the screen becomes a

challenge.

LOCOS X EL FTBOL(Av. Las Heras 2101, Recoleta)

Pros | Conveniently located one block from the Recoletacemetery, this caf-bar has more screens than you can

shake a stick at and is always ready to accommodate the

needs of visiting sports fans eager to watch their team.

Cons | The range of drinks on offer is undeniably poorand the prices beggar belief. Service can be slow,

too: on one occasion half of the match our group was

watching elapsed before our drinks arrived, despite

regular reminders that we were still waiting.

SUGAR(Costa Rica 4619, Palermo)

Pros | Perhaps the most well-known option in all ofBuenos Aires, Sugar benefits from a prime location in

Palermo Viejo and caters to all comers with a wide range

of sports coverage and regular drinks promotions.

Cons | Again, the major events can attract colossalcrowds: the queue to watch the Super Bowl there

snaked down the street and into the distance. Also, it

can be a bit dark Sugar cannot hide that its primary

function is as a tourist-friendly nightspot.

SULLIVANS IRISH BAR(El Salvador 4919, Palermo)

Pros | Very close to Plaza Serrano and almost alwaysopen, Sullivans is at the very least a reliable failsafe.

The menu is decent and the surroundings pleasant

enough to keep you hanging around long after the end of

sporting proceedings.

Cons | While the food is good, it is definitely on thepricey side. The Irish Bar setting can appear awfully

artificial it often feels like the only evidence that

youre sitting in Buenos Aires is the sunshine coming in

through the window.

As plane loads of tourists are making theirway to Brazil over these next couple ofmonths to catch the World Cup action,

you can still get a taste of football fever inneighbouring Buenos Aires. Football nut

Rob Brown investigates where best to getyour pint and footie debates.

Rob Brownis a self-confessed footballaddict. After adopting Buenos Aires

as his home for a few months he has

gotten a taste for a places to catch a

pint and the game.

PA-BLOOR-TIZ

AVI-LA GRAPHIC

DE

SIGNERPUBLIC OUTDOOR SCREENINGS

In a city that lives and breathes football it is no surprise that there arealways outdoor screenings of the Argentina matches. You can catch thegames and a crowd of fans in two locations for each Argentina match: atthe Anteatro Parque Centenario and in Plaza San Martin. Expect hoards

of fans, waving ags and a great atmosphere (unless Argentina lose).

Pros |Free! And a great community spirit.Cons | Outside, so potentially cold and wet. Bring winter clothes.

Anfteatro de Parque Centenario |Leopoldo Marechal on the cornerof Angel GallardoPlaza San Martn |Santa F on the corner of Maip


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15/27

DESTINATION GUIDE /BRAZIL

As all eyes turn to Brazil for theWorld Cup, Amanda Barnes invitesyou to visit some of the big hostcities during the games.

RIO DE JANEIRO

Probably the city people think of first when theyhink of Brazil, Rio is undoubtedly iconic. Humpedillsides, white sand beaches and swathes ofeautiful people characterize the city that doesntleep. But there is more to Rio than the beach, thearties and the samba.

SUGARLOAF

his unusual hill formation is a number onettraction for the views it offers you over Rio city,ut rather than catching the lift up to the top,onsider trekking your way to the lofty heights ofugarloaf. While you probably need the exerciseo burn off all the sugar-laden caipirinhas youllnevitably knock back, the walk is also rewardingor all the wildlife that will greet you on the way:

monkeys and toucans are some of the localresident. Once you get to the top reward yourselfwith a cool beer as you take in the awesome view.

SANTA TERESA

This is the bohemian part of Rio where peoplecome to play bossa nova, eatfeijoada and let theirhair down in this attractive hilltop town. Catch theold tram from downtown up there and spend arelaxing afternoon or early evening meanderingthe cobblestone streets and catching whiffs ofcomforting bean stews and soul lifting notes ofbossa. Head back down later at night for a few beersand good times in Lapa district, which is packed withbars, beer sheds and numerous salsa clubs.

CENTRO

This is where you get an insight into modern Brazil:futuristic architecture, busy commerce and lots ofpeople. You wont want to spen d too much timehere, but it is worth a visit to check out the pyramid-shaped Cathedral (catedral.com.br), the CentroCultural in an old bank (culturabancodobrasil.com.br)and Arco de Teles, a historical old townoasis in the middle of a concrete jungle which offersan insight into the past and some of the best happyhours in Centro.

IPANEMA

You might just find yourself humming the song ,because the girls from Ipanema are certainly eye-catching. As are the boys. And dont they all know it.As people parade around the streets in their bathingsuits you wonder just how much less they can getaway with wearing, until you reach the beach whereit is flesh-central. These are the prettiest beaches inthe city and get crowded on a Summers day withbeach-lovers, people spotters, musicians and foodsellers taking up every inch of sand. The chaos andthe buzzing atmosphere is all part of the charm. Thestreets of Ipanema offer a little bit of calm respitewith posh shops, fancy bars and more lycra-cladmoving manikins.

DETOURISLA GRANDE

If you think the city beaches are idyllic, take a tripto Isla Grande. Only 150kms from Rio, this is a stillunspoiled island where you can watch the world

slowly pass by from the comfort of a hammock.Theres no rush here and no reason to do anythingmore than just enjoy this pristine piece of Atlanticrainforest; time out by the gorgeous sea, sand andsurf; and have a few caipirinhas over the course ofthe afternoon!

SAO PAULO

A cultural capital of Brazil, Sao Paolo is a big,modern city with all the trimmings. Home to 22million people, the city is not small it is the mostpopulated in South America and it expands furtherthan the eye can see on the horizon.

MUSEUMS

Sao Paulo is filled with museums, galleries andart spaces. Here are just a couple to start yourlist with: the Museu do Ipirangaand Memorialda America Latina will delivery on history andarchitectural appeal; Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo,Pinacoteca do Estado, Museu de Arte Modernaand Museu de Arte Contemporaneaare justa handful for art lovers; Weathervane CulturalScience Museumwill keep the kids happy; andthe Julio Prestes Cultural Centreis the home tothe Symphony Orchestra.

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY

Sao Paulo has possibly the most exciting foodscene in South America with some of the worldsbest restaurants located here. There are noshortage of great places to eat and they rangefrom the very expensive top restaurants, todelicious (and just slightly more pocket friendly)delights at the main market. Afterwards head tothe bars to carry on the night in true Brazilian style,Rua Aspicuelta is one of the more popular bar andgoing out areas.

Amanda Barnesis a British journalistwho started her South American journey

five years ago with four months in

Brazil. She learnt to make her first good

caipirinha in the back of a bar in Paraty

with a passion fruit the size of her head.

Ever since then, shes been hook, line

and sinker for Brazil (when she isnt living

with Malbec-tinted glasses in Argentina).

www.amandabarnes.co.uk@amanda_tweeter

Christ the Redeemer - Rio de Janeiro

Sugarloaf

Selaron steps

Cathedral of Saint Sebastian

Ipanema beach

Isla Grande

Octvio Frias de Oliveira Bridge

Memorialda America Latina

29


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LIBERDADE JAPANESENEIGHBOURHOOD

With the biggest population of Japenese peopleutside of Japan, this is a mini Tokyo in the heart ofao Paulo. If you are a fan of sushi - this is the placeor you. Challenge yourself to eat an entire sushioat in one sitting!

DETOURPARATY

A six hour bus from Sao Paulo, this fishermansillage is an idyllic spot with a pretty bay, beautifulolonial houses on cobbled streets, and an arty andohemian vibe. Many people visit Paratyfor a long

weekend or mid-week getaway to indulge in someve bossa music late into the night after a stomachleasing meal in one of the many good restaurants.he rainforest behind offers good trekking, waterfallsnd wildlife if you need a break from the beach.

SALVADOR (BAHIA)

urther north in Brazil, this is the homeland ofCarnival and parties with an authentic Bahian vibe.A stronger connection to Brazils African identitymeans that the music is more hip-shaking, the

air is stacked higher on the head and manywomen will wear striking traditional Afro-BrazilianBahian dress.

OLD TOWN, PELOURINHO

As Brazils oldest capital, from 1549, Salvador hasome of the most beautiful colonial architecture. A

walk around the Old Town and its many cobblestonequares is the perfect way to spend an evening and

there are plenty of bars to quench your thirst andstreet food to appease your tummy.

PONTA DE HUMAITA

This little spit with a historical church offers greatviews over Salvador bay and is the perfect place towatch the sunset over the city and sea.

DETOUR MORRO DE SAO PAULO

An island paradise reached after a two hour boat ridefrom Mercado Modelo in Salvador, you can easilydisappear on Morro. Palm tree fringed beaches, livelybeach parties and pretty much nothing else makesMorro a switch off from the worldhaven.

OTHER LOCATIONS

The games will be played in a number of otherlocations in Brazil. Heres a summary of theless-travelled roads:

NATAL

A modern-northern city that was founded onChristmas Day, Natal is renowned for great beacheswith warm, calm waters, sand dunes and you caneven spot dolphins off some coastlines. This is alsowhere the dance forr really comes to life. Dontmiss evening classes or dances in the many forrbars and schools.

CUIAB

In the middle of Brazils cowboy country, Cuiabis the portal for splendid nature-spotting in thePantanal and the start to the Amazon. There iscanoeing, hiking and waterfalls to explore but itsthe native residents that draw the most attention:jaguars, monkeys, macaws, tarantulas and more!The city itself is the smallest host city and youll findthe restaurant and bar scene very central and easyto navigate.

BELO HORIZONTE

Belo Horizonte is a modern city, so modern infact that the Catholic Church at first refused toconsecrate the ultra-modern So Francisco deAssis Church (which looks more like a fancyairport). It has been accepted now, and if peoplearent coming to see this unusual church, theyll beheading here for the good bar scene in the city andthe pretty colonial towns nearby.

Liberdade gates

Salvador (Bahia)

Old Town, Pelourinho

Dancing Forr

Chapada-dos-Guimares

Historial churck - Ponta de Humaita

Isla Grande

Palm tree island - Morro

FORTALEZA

A large and ever-growing city in the north, whosemain attractions are the fabulous sand-dune beacheswhere surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing rule thewaves and skies. Iracemabeachis the most popularfor bathers. In the city, wander to the Cathedal areafor the open air food and clothes market.

MANAOS

The capital of the Amazon, this is the stop off pointfor the worlds largest jungle. The amazing wildlifenearby is the main attraction, but there is also ahuge opera house, and river beaches and waterfalls,and the new indigenous, weaved basket-stylestadium where the World Cup games are being heldis nothing short of impressive.

RECIFE

Known for having some of the longest city beachin Brazil, it is perhaps no surprise that local sharkslove the beaches here too enter the water at yourown risk! When you arent dallying with the localaquamarine residents, this modern city has plentyof restaurants, bars and cultural centres to keepyou entertained. Antiguo Recifeis the old townneighbourhood best visited in the evening.

So Francisco de Assis Church

Iracema beach

Amazon indigenous

31


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There was a time when I thoughtfootball was actually...nothing at all.

There was a time when I believed thatfootball was an odd sport, you know,a bunch of guys following a poor ball.

With the passing of time, I understood it all.A sense of belonging. A colour, a team, a bond,

a cathartic scream of goal!Little by little, my passion for football grew.

It blossomed and I felt I belonged.

Blue is my colour until my last breath.Theres the ritual, the most amazing an d weird lucky charms,

I know al l of us A rgies have oneArgentina is football, I didnt u nderstand it at first, until I felt it.

The reason? Not worth men tioning.The result? Smiling at everyone who wears that unique blue,

listening to my neighbour uttering the word goalwith the same excitement as I do.

The way others greet you the following dayeither with a joke or a congratulations,

either way, here, in my country,football is both for men and women,

of course, they think we dont know that much about it,but we do, we certainly do.

BRASILIA

The capital of Brazil, even though you might neverhave heard of it This square metropolis in thevast Brazilian countryside was built in the mid-50sand the design reflects it with some seriouslypost-modern architecture and a cathedral shapedlike a crown of thorns. The impressive modernbuildings have earned it UNESCO world heritagestatus.

PORTO ALEGRE

This busy modern city is a big shopping area andbeef capital for its famous churrascaria (BBQ)scene. There is busy nightlife here, good hikesnearby and Brazils main wine country is only twohours away.

CURITIBA

With immigrants from all over, this city has a seriesof fountains and memorials dedicated to differentpeoples: Jerusalem, Arab, Japan, Italian, youname it its probably here. This also gives it great

variety in cuisine and an eclectic bar scene. As thegreenest city in Brazil, much of Curitiba is focusedon sustainability and the area is also renowned forgreat parks and nature trails.

Recife beach

Cathedral - Brasilia

Curitiba National Park

A TASTE OF BRAZIL IN BA

Cant make it to the games but still want to catch some

f that Brazilian vibe? Here are your best spots for

Brazilian bounty in Buenos Aires.

BOTECO DO BRASIL

Down to earth, home-style cooking is at the heart of

his Brazilian-owned (and cheffed) Palermo joint. Expect

lassics like Pastel Carne, Bolinha de queijo, Feijoada

bean and meat stew) and Fish Moqueca (coconut fish

tew). Boteco do Brasil,Honduras 5774, Palermo

Hollywood (11, 3979-2970). Lu nch & Dinner Tues.- Sun.

ME LEVA BRASIL

hey have slightly odd opening schedules in the

week, but come Friday, Saturday, Sunday this Palermo

estaurant is ready to take you to Brazil with typical

ishes like prawn stew, beef strogonof and of course

eijoada served all afternoon and evening. Me Leva

Brasil,Costa Rica 4488, Palermo Viejo (11, 4832-4290)

SUNDAY FORRO AT FOYNES BAR

f you need a place to get yourforron (a typical

Brazilian dance if you missed the gag), then Foynes is

he place to go on a Sunday night. Class starts at 9.30,

ut dancing carries on till much later in the night often

with a live band. Foynes Bar,Niceto Vega 4984, Palermo

Soho. (15 6455 1548)

AMBAZOUK AND MALUCO BELEZA DISCO

Brazilians do like to party, and this energetic disco has

mix of Brazilian-Rock-Reggae-Cachengue to mention

few genres What stands out though for real

Brazilian flavour are the Lambazouk (Lambada mixed

with Brazilian zouk) classes every Friday and Sunday

ight, followed by a disco to show off your moves.

Wednesdays they have a show dinner where the feijoadainner is free when you order drinks. Maluco Beleza

Disco,Sarmiento 1728, Center (11, 4372-1737). Open

Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun (malucobelezadisco.com)

SolCifreisaself-admittedworkaholic.

SheisbornandraisedArgentineanbu

t

findsthatEnglishisthelanguageofher

soul.Aswellaswritingpoetry,shortstories

andnovels,sheisanEnglishteacher.


18/27

LaPlataandiscurrentlySomm

elierat

FrancisMallmann1884inMen

doza.

Sheisusedtodrinkingonthejob.

Dana_Fernandez

BOHME LUIGI BOSCA BRUT NATURE - The champion of elegance. $380This gives you a sparkling wine together with a delightful feeling, because it hasa great structure and complexity, but leaves room for subtle freshness of sparklingwine. The grapes come from Lujn de Cuyo, Mendoza, and the vineyards areolder than 50 years old. It is a traditional champenoise method sparkling wine

made from Pinot Noir (aged in barrels), Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.

CRUZAT CUVE RESEVE NATURE - Majestically structured. $170With a good balance between a cooling sensation and the strength of a foamingcomplexity, this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Made by the traditionalchampenoise bottle fermentation method, youll still notice yeast notes from asignifcant contact with the lees over 24 months.

LUIS REGINATO EXTRA BRUT CHARDONNAY-TORRONTS - Beautifulfreshness and good moneys worth! $105If you want something light, fresh and fruity, this is one of the best examples toget your moneys worth. An easy drinking sparkling wine, that wont disappoint.Its fruity notes are remarkable and persistent bubbles make it a very interesting

sparkling wine; developed by a family with vast experience. 70% Chardonnay and30% Torrontes by Charmat method.

DESEADO FAMILIA SCHREORDER - Especially for sweet tooths. $90The very fruity nose is almost like a perfume in this sweet sparkling wine madefrom the Torronts grape by Charmat method. It is extremely user-friendly and softand sweet in the mouth. I must admit that although it is not new to the market,it remains very original. If sweetness is your pleasure, Im sure youll love thissparkling wine!

NIETO SENETINER BRUT NATURE - Fresh and complex. $95With a very nice color thats almost a tenuous rose. The complex nose combines

fruit and toast, and this sparkling has good acidity and harmonious, lastingbubbles. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Charmat method.

ScribblesfromaSomm...The World Cup is coming... Are you ready to celebrate ?Imagine that your country is the world champion; dont you thinkyou should be prepared to celebrate? And how would you do it?

At least if your team does not win, youll have a nice bottle of sparkling wine in order to forget the result!

WellI havetobe honest, Imnot a football lover, but when it comesto celebrating, a sommelier canbe useful. On this occasion,I have chosensomesparklingwines to celebrate your team winning the game, or perhaps

tohelp you commiserate.

THE SPARKLING WINE DIARIESThe Riddler, The Monk and The RobotHave you ever wondered how bubbly gets, well, bubbly? Amanda Barnes

takes us through the snap, crackle and pop of sparkling wine and meets ariddler, a monk and a robot along the way.

Popping corks and letting foamy Champagne bubble over glass tops (o r neckingthe pre-mature zz quickly from the excited bottle top) is a quintessential part ofa good party. Sparkling wine is fun, frothy and makes you feel fabulous.No one can resist a bit of bubbly, even those extraterrestrials that dont drinkwine will down a glass of Champagne when the occasion calls. Aside from the

hiccups and an instant blood transfusion of happiness, there is a lot more tosparkling wine then meets the blurry eye. Getting the bubbles into the wine is anart form that has taken centuries to master.

How do you get bubbles in the bubbly?

As a modern drinker that has grown up in theage of soda stream and panda pop, the mostobvious way to make something sparkle would beby carbonating it. It doesnt take a miracle

to turn the sparkle in water to sparklein wine, and that is how it happensin the cheapest zzy plonk. If youimagine the lowest shelf on thesupermarket, the one that beggarsbelief at only $30 pe sos this is thesort of wine that has had carbon(CO2) injected into it. This would be yourBaywatch equivalent: fun, bubbly,cheap entertainment that has beenarticially inated.

On the other end of the spectrum we getthe most revered and the oldest method

for sparkling wine: the traditionalchampenoise method. The mostexpensive, the longest lasting and the one

that was, like many good things in life,discovered comple tely by accid ent.

The legend goes that in 1697 an oldmonk was busy in his monastery attending to hisne bottles of monk-made wine and swigging afew along the way (monks may lead a solitary

AmandaBarnesisaself-admittedsparklingwineaddict.

Whensheisntpoppingcorksorenjoyingfizztrickledown

herthroat,sheiswishingshewas.

Fortunatelyforher

drinkinghasbecomepartofherworkrequirementandyou

canread

herwinearticlesonwww.amandabarnes.co.uk

orwww.thesqueezemagazine.com

@amanda_tweeter

life, but it was certainly a merry one!) The monkopened one of his bottles, and to his amazement itcame out zzy! He drank the miraculous nectar andallegedly cried out to his monastery colleagues Comequick, I am drinking stars! And so the fairytale of

the discovery of Champagne began.

The science behind the discovery is that whenactive yeast is left in a wine bottle with sugarit produces CO2 (aka. lovely bubbly). The simplechemical reaction is sugar + yeast = alcohol + CO2.It is the same process you use for makingstill wine, although when done in a closedenvironment (like a bottle) all the CO2 gasis captured. The trapped CO2 b ubbles canbe released in a delightful pop ofa cork, a sizzle in the glass anda zzle on the tongue. Or they can bereleased when the pressure becomes toomuch, and the bottle or top - explodes. Thissimple bubble science is how Formula Onewinners have so much post-race fun.

The truth behind the star-studdedstory of the monks discovery isactually that he was hopping madwith all these exploding bottles in his cellar, ruininghis wine and destroying the peace of the monastery.The fact that this monks name was Dom Perignonmade this sli ghtly problematic for a certain


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37www.thesqueezemagazine.com/app

A free appguide to Mendozaswineries, wines and regions !

Champagne b rand later down the line After thework of a talented spin-doctor in the 19th century,he truth got a bit of fairy dust and became

all about sparkle and enchanted discovery. Domerignon was now the pioneer and poster boy of

Champagne and the multi-billion dollar Champagnendustry was born.

The fact that the English had been makingparkling wine since 1662 (some 30 years before

Dom P got frustrated with his popping bottles) stillemains a thorn in the side for the French legend,ompletely au contraire to the story Champagne

houses like to give you. Even other parts of Franceoutside the Champagne boundary) will negate thefamed regions claim to the discovery. Carcassonnen Southern France proclaim that they were the veryrst to discover sparkling wine in the 1530s, over aentury before the English. All these claims to thenvention of bubbly are rather comme ci comme a.The important bit is that this was the rst methodfor sparkling wine and is still being made today, ina very traditional and painstaking process.

The champenoise method, with the secondfermentation in the bottle, requires a lot of manualabour and a t least a few months in the wineryor sometimes over 5 years) to make it. This iswhere the role of The Riddler comes i n. One of themost under-appreciated gures in sparkling history,he riddler is the person that has to spend

months in a dank, cold cellar turningach bottle 90 degrees once a day toteadily collect and settlehe dead yeast athe bottom ofhe bottle to beater popped out.

The riddler as if he wasnt lackingacknowledgement enough has been replaced toome extent by machine now, but many producersrefer the hand-turned technique and machines

are often more expensive than hiring a person. Allthe attention to meticulous details is whychampenoise is the most expensive

method, but also renowned as thebest for its ne bubbles and specialtertiary aromas like baked bread,brioche, trufe and hazelnuts.This is the James Bond ofsparkling wine.

Somewhere in-between champenoiseand carbonation are the tank(charmat) method and transfermethod: modern ways of getting a

traditional-style second fermentationin greater quantity, with less hardwork. Lets call them Robocop 1 & 2.

The tank method (aka charmat) is - asexpected from the name - where the secondfermentation is not done in a bottle, but rather in apressurized tank. This is the method for many mid-priced sparkling and fruity wines like Prosecco andLambrusco in Italy.

Finally, the transfer method involves making asparkling wine in the bottle the traditional way, then

transferring it into a tank and re-bottling it. Thismethod seems like a lot of work and it is! But theadvantages are making a more consistent wine(without variation between bottles) and giving thecomplexity of a traditional champenoise methodwine that has beneted from lees aging.

Once the bubbles are created though, the work isntdone. You need to add a dosage (a sugar mixture)

to sweeten it to your nal taste. All of this meddlingmust to be taken into mind by the winemaker from

the beginning, as he has to make the basewine in the rst place imagining whatit will taste like after secondfermentation and the addeddosage. Another superheroof the sparkling wineworld.

Making zz is not as easy as it rst seems.So while popping a cork on a bottle of bubbly isfantastically simple, next time you are spritzingit in the air and all over the frenzied crowd (ordisdainful girlfriend) remember all the people,history and effort that goes into that lovely jubblybottle of bubbly.

BUBBLY T IPS

If you thought you love Champagne, spare a thought for the ever-so-slightly delirious Marie Antoiniette who had such a fondness for thesparkling stuff that she got a special glass shape made in the formof her breast.

Champagne can only come from certain grapes from the smallChampagne region in France (33,500 hectares spread over 319 villages).So if you see Champagne on an Argentine bottle, it most certainly isntChampagne, just incorrectly labeled Sparkling Wine.

If you seem foxed by how some sparkling wines are sweet whileothers are dry, pay attention to this key words which are thegiveaway for the dosage (sugar concentrate) added at the end:ranging between Brut Nature (0-3 sugar), Extra Brut, Brut, ExtraSec, Sec, Demi Sec, up to Doux (sweet = 50+grams of sugar per litre).

Contrary to when you open a normal bottle of wine, the proper way toopen a sparkling wine is by turning the bottle and not the top.

Sparkling wine isnt just for cocktail hour and canaps, try your nextbottle with fried chicken and tell me you dont love it! Go with texturewhen pairing sparkling wine, think caviar and popcorn and light shand seafood dishes are always classics.


20/27

PLAZA SERRANOove it or hate it, this is the hub ofctivity in Palermo Soho. Historicallybohemian neighbourhood

requented by the likes of Jorge Luisorges (who has a street namedfter him here), it is now rather

more gentrified and touristy but ittill provides good entertainmentor everyone with a kids playground;umerous markets selling all sortsf artisanal products, gifts and art toelight shoppers; and bars all aroundo keep the dads and boyfriendsappy.

PEOPLE WATCHINGyou are an avid people-watcher, this

s the spot for you. Take a pew at onef the many outdoor bars and feasthe eyes on trendy porteos, camara-acking tourists and meanderingamilies who all come here in theirroves on the weekends.

COLOURS FROM

ASIA (ANDARGENTINA)Camboya(El Salvador 4817)bringsthe vibrant colours of Asia to Sohowith colourful clothes, jewelry andgifts from many different countriesin Asia and the Middle East. You canget yourself kitted out in full dressand accessories and have that justcame back from travelling India lookwithout stepping outside of Palermo.If you want to go for a more ethnicArgentine look, right next door isTake It (El Salvador 4815)where youcan get dressed in equally brightcolours and accessories that all comefrom the North of Argentina and aremade by different artisan producers.

FULL CITY COFFEE

HOUSEWith fantastic Colombian coffee,this small coffee shop is a mecca forexpats who need their caffeine dripand locals who come for an espressoto go, or stay for the Colombianbreakfasts. Good wifi and a stack ofmagazines to peruse make it a greatstopover in Soho.Thames 1535.

GIVE ME MOREDULCE DE LECHE!

If you find yourself with an insatiableaddiction, La Salamandramight justsave the day. With a Dulce de Lechefarm in Lujan (90kms away),you cantaste the buttery goodness in theirDulce de Leche and Mozzerella barin Palermo. Sweet treats and cheesedelights line the shelves or you canbuy supplies to take home.El Salvador 4761.

A TOUCH OF TASCA

RETRO AND TEAA modern take on a tasca, ManuelaMalasaa serves up Spanish stylepintxos, long weekend brunchesand teas and coffees served inside apretty caf-resto-bar with warm staffand retro furnishings. One of themany lovely spots in Soho to meetup with friends for an afternoon.Manuela Malasaa, Costa Rica4818.

PUNTOCUCIf you want to get an idea of howmuch of a commodity importedgoodies have become, just stepinto this modern food shop whereyoull see coconut milk and Englishtea displayed as if it were fancyperfume or crystal. Quite rightly soas almost every long-term expat willvalue foreign goods almost as muchas a diamond earrings after living ina country where even getting hotsauce becomes an arduous task.Jorge L. Borges 1732.

SANTA EVAA covered market next to PlazaSerrano with a bar in the heart ofit, this is the perfect spot for a bitof boozy shopping with a fernetand colain hand. There are alsoregular live music and milongasinthe evenings. Drink and shop withcaution, Playground BA holds noresponsibility for drink-inducedpurchases. Serrano 1551.

MISSIONIf you are into your leathers, thisshop is the outlet of a large leatherfactory in Cordoba. Producing high-quality cow hides that are made intohandbags, throws and carpets, this isa leather-lovers haven, and perhapsPETAs nightmare. Pasaje Russel5009.

Palermo has a myriad of handsomegalleries, pretty design shops, painfullycool cafes and bars, steak-lovingrestaurants alongside achingly greenvegan hotspots, and the occasional drunkhen party stumbling through the streets.The nucleus of all this activity is PalermoSoho, centered around Plaza Serrano.Weekdays are calmer but from Fridayafternoon till Monday morning, Sohobuzzes with pleasure seekers, coffeedrinkers and knickknack shoppers. Thereare countless places to eat, drink, buy andbe merry, but here are a couple gems.

By Amanda Barnes

A taste of Asia, Camboya Dulce de Leche atLa Salamandra

Manuela Malasana Market at Plaza Serrano Mission Plaza Serrano Santa EvaFull House Coffee

PhotostakenbyAmandaBarnes

SECTOR MAP

F-2F-3G-2G-3

39

Plaza Serrano

La Salamandra

Manuela MalasaaMission

Puntocuc

Full CityCoffee house

CamboyaTake it

Santa Eva

WrittenbyAmandaBarnes

AmandaisaBritishjournowhohasbeen

delightinginMendozaswinesceneand

vineyardsforlongerthanherliverwouldlike

toadmit.www.amandabarnes.co.uk


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common cuts of meat. For a more pocketfriendly experience of Sucre, try out theirlunch menu which has 2 courses for $170.

Sucre, Sucre 676 (between FigueroaAlcorta and Castaeda) Belgrano (11) 47829082. Reservations 24 hours previouslyonline, open daily Lunch & Dinner.$$$$$

BELLAGAMBA

If you want a traditional Argentine bodegon(tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of themost centrally located ones still sending outmilanesas and jugs of wine at lunch timethe same way it did since opening in 1900.Started by a couple Italian immigrants, themotive behind this bodegon is lling foodand a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere.Cheap, cheerful and authentic.

Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Juninand Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833.Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$

BAR DU MARCHE

A French-chic bistro with around 50 winesby the glass and a handful of differentdishes including foie gras, sh carpaccioand lamb cooked in Malbec. While there isplenty of delectable bites served here, themain focus is on the wine. And not onlyfor Argentine wines but also for a nice (butobviously small) selection of foreign wines.Ideal for winos who like a bit of cheese on

the side as they also serve some of thebest artisanal cheese in town, and the staffwill happily pair it for you.

Bar du Marche, Nicaragua 5946 (betweenArevelo and Ravignani), Palermo (11) 47781050. Lunch & Dinner, Closed Sundays. $$$

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza,pasta and parilla! There is so much moreo Buenos Aires food scene though andhis is a quick glance guide to some of the

gastronomy gems you can discover in thecity. Dont forget that Argentineans dine lateat night with most restaurants not openingmuch before 8pm and often still serving tillgone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.

CASA CRUZ

his restaurant has a long history ofroviding top quality food, and now havingeen taken back over by sommelier andoodie Aldo Graziani Casa Cruz is backn top of its game with some of theest steak in town and a more relaxedtmosphere. Perky jazz and an eclectic

mix of music set the scene for this upscaleet unpretentious restaurant where youan order delicious cocktails or wine fromlist that will take any wine lover at least

n hour to pick from. Pick a red thoughecause the best thing here is the steak:

uicy with a distinctive, rich avour hingedwith herbal notes and a smoky nish theecret of how they cook it remains in theitchen.

Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658 (between ElSalvador and Honduras) Palermo (11) 4833112.$$$$

SARKIS

erving food as if it were in Armenia,nd un-translated menus to match, this isgreat spot for those on a budget who

want to taste some proper Middle Easternood. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bitushed this isnt your spot for a fancyate but it will keep you happy with itseppe,

Playground Buenos Aires, Ed 2

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Transcript of Playground Buenos Aires, Ed 2