Copy Nail Polish Product..Posted by andriantoangkadirjo85 on July 24, 2011

Hi all,

Cosmetics and their use as decorative applications for the human body have been in existence for centuries and are used

extensively throughout the world. As a multibillion-dollar industry, cosmetics have many different applications, including the use

of lipstick, eyeliner, facial creams,powders, highlighters and nail polishes or lacquers. Used primarily by women, the extent of

cosmetic use is extraordinary, and has made many of the cosmetics producing and marketing firms very profitable endeavors.

The nail polish sector of the cosmetic industry is extremely competitive. New colors, combinations, including clear formulations and

varitation thereof are constantly hold onto a bigger piece of the market share. The scientific research that is poured into these

endeavors is considerable and new products and/or brand names are continually being introduced.

According to Euromonitor, the retail value of the global market for nail products, which includes nail varnishes, enamels, nail varnish

removers, treatments, home manicure products, including cuticle softeners and nail strengtheners, reached $4.9 billion in 2010,

with hand care products, including hand moisturizers, emollients, and soothers and hydrators for skin prone to redness, irritation, or

eczema, reaching $2.3 billion. Nail products in the US reached $800 million in retail value, and US hand care products were valued

at $110 million.

Euromonitor notes that nail polish was the fastest growing category in the sector, registering 8% current value growth in 2009, an

improvement on the 7% growth in the previous year. In addition, the DIY (do it yourself) trend helped drive 9% value growth in nail

care products in 2009. Budget conscious consumers continue to give themselves manicures and pedicures at home, while nail

polishes continue to benefit from new launches. According to Euromonitor, as a result of the growth in sales, nail products also saw

a flurry of company activity, with, Coty acquiring the OPI nail polish brand.

Marvelous..superb..tons of business opportunities..

What are nail polishes? They are essentially comprised of pigments and/or dyes that are incorporated and suspended in various

solvents and bases. The polishes are also stabilized in the suspensions to protect the appearance of the product and to prevent the

pigments, during the shelf life of the product, from floating, settling, separating, or striating the polish. Nail polishes are also

formulated so that the film formed thereby is tough and durable and adheres to the human nail and will not readily crack, chip, peel,

splinter, or become brittle after application and during wear. The toughness should last for an extended period of time, thereby

enhancing the durability of the nail polish enamel.

I’ve been assigned to copy nail polish/nail enamel/nail lacquer. It’s been more complicated than the first one, see here, If you’re

wondering what was I doing about it, I conveniently presented it to you. I devided into several steps, ie :

1. The Target.

12 different shades to copy

2. Create formulas.

There are many sources available :

US PATENTS & many free-online formularies of suppliers, magazines and other sources.

3. Gathering raw materials.

I think this is the toughest part of the job. Because I work in small company, I’m unable to meet with the sales reps from all suppliers

as many actually don’t know about the existence of the company. Really gathering from scratch..:). But I just thought this as a kind

of mentally exercise..to be patience, not easily give up. An interesting story when I called the principle reps office in Singapore just

to ask their reps office in Indonesia. But the try is worthy. The reps in Indonesia really proved to bring great help to this project, by

supplying great data and sample..:)

3. Create dye solution for color matching.

To match the color with the target, I started with 0.1% w/w oil solutions of the colors. Fortunately, the colors for nail polished used to

comprise of D&C Red #6, #7, #34, D&C Yellow #5 Lakes,Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Iron Oxides, Iron Black Aluminium Silicate and Iron

Blue Aluminium Silicate. 

After mixed it, compare to the target and determine whether it is to dark or too light. In the next attempt, double the amount of

color if too light or cut it in half if too dark. Continue this process of doubling or halving dye levels until get something that matches.

If done properly, we should get pretty close in 7 tries. Also, do not forget to record how much color we’ve used.

4. Make solution for Nitrocellulose.

As Nitrocellulose is dangerous/explosive if not handling properly, so it is safer to keep this material in the form of solution. First,

wetting the Nitrocellulose with 30% Isopropyl Alcohol, and then dissolved with ester solvent such as Ethyl Acetate. First we don’t

have clear solution, but with keeping it in tight container, we’ll have clear solution within days.

Well, now one of the crucial point is taken care, keeping the Nitrocellulose safe! What a relief..:)

5. Prepare the nail polish base.

I devided this base into 2 : clear lacquer base and thixotropic clear lacquer base.

a. Clear Lacquer Base 

clear nail lacquer

To make this clear lacquer base, I just mixed acrylates copolymer with solvent like alcohol and butyl acetate or acetone. This will

make a clear one, different from nitrocellulose or its derivates which produce clear, yellowish solution.

Thanks to God ! When I try this clear base by applying to my nail, this proved to be a good one.. Have glossy,  proper viscosity, good

adhesion & flexibility, chip & scratch resistance.

So relief..just half way left to finish the product.

b. Thixotropic Clear Lacquer

To complete gelification need 1-day standing

Composition consist of clear lacquer + attapulgite, a hydrated magnesium aluminosilicate. Attapulgite occurs as tightly packed

bundles of submicron particles whose lathe-like structure gives it unique colloidal and sorptive properties. As thickener and

suspending agent, they provide benefits including easy dispersion, formulating latitude and long term stability.

Both ingredients (clear lacquer & attapulgite) have to be dispersed using a high mixing speed, eg. with the help of an Ultra-Turrax

apparatus or a dissolver. High-speed mixing creates optimum dispersion, thus rapid & maximum thickening. Intensive, slow-speed

mixing, such as with a double planetary-type mixer, may take longer to develop near maximum viscosity.

During this process the lacquer becomes warm. After cooling a jelly stucture starts to appear. This gelification process is completely

after about 1 day of standing. The amount of attapulgite is reduced as solids rise. Pigmented systems may need less than 0.5% for

suspension or soft-settle, and those with large particles may need 0.5% to 2.0%. These solids content and amount of attapulgite are

crucial. Too much will cause the product too thick and can’t be applied smoothly. Too little will cause the opposite, the product will

be too thin and difficult to apply.

6. The finished nail lacquer.

Depending on the desired pearl effect, appropriate pearl-pigment dispersion or pure powdered pearl-pigments are added to the

thixotropic clear lacquer. Usually between 0.3%-1.5%. Powder pigments from Rona/Merck program can yield attractive effects in nail

lacquers, such as :

interference pigments for change-effects, eg. Timiron Super Red, Timiron Super Violet, Timiron Super Copper. color lustre pigments for lustre and color, eg. Colorona Sienna, Colorona Copper, Colorona Bronze.

Concentration in the nail lacquer about 1%-1.5%.

The pearl pigment dispersion or the pigment powder is carefully stirred into the thixotropic clear lacquer until homogeneous. A

dispersion apparatus should however, on no account be used for this purpose.

Further addition of dye stuffs is possible. Conventional pigments should be dispersed into the thixotropic clear lacquer before the

pearl lustre pigments are added, because they need high shear forces for dispersion.

7. Filling nail polish.

The obstacles in filling nail lacquer are small bottles, narrow necks, flammable contents. Manual filling machine for cream might

work, but should modify the filling head so that it turn very narrow and can reach the bottom of the pack. Unless, the bubbles will

blowing nail polish out of the top of pack.

During the filling, as it is a solvent based product, make sure it is well ventilated. Otherwise, after a couple of dozen packs we’ll be

floating on the ceilings..:)

andriantoangkadirjo bottom line

– Nail polish is really very2 competitive cosmetic product. It is the fastest growing category in the sector with highest value growth

in the market.

– Nail polish formulation is really unique. Not only cosmetic but also dealing paint formula in general, like car, house,etc. The

knowledge in it is vast..No wonder many cosmetic industries are reluctant dealt with this product, considering difficulties and

toughness in formulating.