MWB Magazine October issue

ISSUE 216 | OCTOBER 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BEST FOOT FORWARDWHAT THE KEY NAMES IN FOOTWEAR HAVE TO OFFER FOR S/S 15—ANYTHING BUT A GREEK TRAGEDYAPHRODITE CELEBRATES 20 YEARS SINCE OPENING ITS DOORS—FROM THE BUSH TO BOND STREETAUSTRALIAN FOOTWEAR LABEL R.M. WILLIAMS REVEALS ITS FUTURE PLANS—

Spring / Summer �15C O L L E C T I O N

(+44) 113 2402211 www.skopeswholesale.com

QualityLuxuryHeritageMade in Scotland

T: 01450 363100E: [email protected]

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13 David HarveyA tribute to one of menswear’s finest

14 Online InsiderAdvice, news and issues online

16 Retail InsiderThe latest in-store news

22 Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

24 In-season stockParka and ride

26 One step beyondThe news and developments from mainstream footwear

28 Starting from the bottom upMWB’s seasonal footwear shoot

34 Moda GentIndustry insiders reveal what’s new for s/s 15

36 Classic gift guideGifts, accessories and essential extras for your festive offer

40 Product NewsRounding up the key stories this month

42 In-season stockPure jeanius

44 20 years of brotherly loveIndie Aphrodite celebrates its 20th anniversary

46 Chippewa back on the supply trailProfiling the classic biker boot label

48 SelectHighlighting the best from Moda’s contemporary zone

50 Sole-searchingNews, developments and trends from denim, street and young fashion footwear

52 Jacket RequiredTom Bottomley’s picks from the London trade show

54 Contemporary gift guidePoint of sale options including accessories, leather goods and tech extras

7 Comment8 News18 Interview

Hamish Turner

56 Collective59 The Bottomley Line62 Last Orders With…

John Jarrett

Front cover:

Lacoste01962 312803

R E T A I L

G E N T

D E N I M & S T R E E T

R E G U L A R S

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E D I T O R

Victoria Jackson [email protected]

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D E P U T y E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley [email protected]

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Isabella Griffiths [email protected]

Laura Turner [email protected]

Christina Williams [email protected]

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S U B E D I T O R

Amanda Batley [email protected]

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E D I T O R I A L A S S I S T A N T

Rebecca Jackson [email protected]

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D E S I G N E R S

Michael Podger [email protected]

James Lindley [email protected]

Clive Holloway [email protected]

Richard Boyle [email protected]

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S A L E S M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff [email protected]

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S U B S C R I P T I O N S

Laura Martindale [email protected]

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H E A D O F M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden [email protected]

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P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham [email protected]

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P O R T F O L I O D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook [email protected]

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M A R K E T I N G D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker [email protected]

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M A N A G I N G D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt [email protected]

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A recent survey by e-tailer BrandAlley revealed 48 per cent of shoppers arefrustrated with the high street after being faced with next season’s productsrather than current season. From those surveyed, 44 per cent highlighted adifficulty in finding holiday clothing in the height of summer, leaving them nochoice but to turn online.

It highlights the importance of reconsidering your buying tactics if you wantto keep up with consumer demands, especially if you’re solely a bricks-and-mortar business. Consumers, of course, will always enjoy the experience ofshopping on the high street, but more and more will favour online retailers ifthey can offer relevant stock all year round.

This also rings true of the footwear sector, with a report released earlierthis month by industry analyst Verdict indicating that consumers often prefer toshop in bricks-and-mortar shops for shoes, but are often frustrated by in-storeoffers that are out of step with the seasons.

Specifically, the report revealed that only 17.7 per cent of shoppers buyfootwear online – an avenue that could be maximised by indies, although theunpredictable nature of the British weather teamed with the traditional modelof fashion buying means that stores are all too often selling winter styles at atime when the UK climate is in the realms of summertime.

If you are looking to increase or strengthen your footwear offer, look nofurther than MWB’s seasonal footwear and accessory special. Bringing togetherthe news, developments and trends for s/s 15 from some of the key names inclassic and contemporary footwear, there is inspiration aplenty for those whodress their gents, quite literally, from head to toe.

Victoria Jacksoneditor

COMMeNT

With news that online clothing andfootwear sales have topped the £10bnmark over the past 10 months, itseems shoppers are turning to theinternet to find current-season clothing, as opposed tothe high street’s new-season stock. —

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AMAZON TOPS DIGITALCUSTOMER SERVICE REPORT

Online retailer Amazon has topped the latesteChannel Retail Benchmark report examining digitalcustomer experience, beating off department storesDebenhams, John Lewis and Marks & Spencer.

The report, undertaken by eDigitalResearch,which assessed the complete end-to-end customerexperience across key digital channels, found thatAmazon topped the report thanks to its accurate andfast predictive text on keyword search, extensivecustomer reviews and one-click purchase function.

“Amazon has long led the field with its multi-channel customer experience, introducing ideas suchas predictive search text and one-click purchases,”says Derek Eccleston, commercial director ateDigitalResearch. “While it still doesn’t lead the waywhen it comes to design or first impressions, Amazonclearly understands its customers.”

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NATWEST ANNOUNCES EIGHTNEW BUSINESS HUBS

National bank Natwest will roll-out its investment andmentoring scheme to eight new regional hubs,following a successful trail already under way inScotland. The scheme aims to help would-beentrepreneurs to realise their business ideas throughfinancial grants and mentorship programmes designedto give private sectors the help they need to grow.

The scheme – which is run in partnership withEntrepreneurial Spark in Scotland – will be rolled-outto Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Leeds, Manchesterand Belfast, with two further locations to beannounced next year.

“Our work in Scotland has had a positive impacton the huge upsurge in the number of new businessincorporations,” says Jim Duffy, CEO ofEntrepreneurial Spark. “Better still, those who gothrough our programmes have an 80 per centsurvival rate, which is way above average.”

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N E W S

The third edition of Hong kong trade show The HuB, which closed its doors inAugust, saw the event cement its position as the leading trade show in Asia forbranded and designer fashion with a new central venue, reworked exhibitor mixand attendance from key buyers from across Hong kong, mainland China andthe Asia-Pacific region.

The two-day event, which took place in the new venue of D2 Place in the heart ofKowloon’s fashion district, featured almost 100 international brands from the UK, US,Italy, France, Spain and Japan, as well as some of the latest Asia-Pacific design talent.

“The HUB is a really interesting show for us, and both the location and overall showenvironment have been greatly improved by the move,” says Tony Evans, managingdirector of Gola Classics, which also took part in the February 2014 show at The HUB’sprevious venue at Asia World Expo. “We’ve seen a good number of the better-endretailers from Hong Kong, and a lot more visitors from mainland China than we did at the last show. I think you have to invest the time to come out here if you want to findout what the opportunities are, and there’s definitely an interest in all brands with agenuine heritage.”

Daniel Dunko of Hancock was also positive about the show’s performance.“Hancock already does well in Japan, but we see Hong Kong as the gateway to the restof Asia,” he says. “Our strategy for this region is all about making contacts andestablishing a rapport. Nothing happens overnight, and I feel we need to take part atleast three times if we’re serious about building the brand here.”

Leading Hong Kong retailers visiting the show included Lane Crawford, The Armoury, D-Mop, Kapok and Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, joined by around 200buyers from Mainland China. Buyers also visited the event from Singapore, Korea, Japan,Taiwan, the Philippines and Australia.

Richard Hobbs, who founded The HUB in 2013 with business partner PeterCaplowe, described the August 2014 event as a “breakthrough show”. “This has definitelybeen the best reaction we’ve had from exhibitors and visitors, and three seasons on fromthe launch we’re attracting the right calibre of brands and buyers,” he says. “The moveto our new venue has been particularly well received, and the international brands we’reworking with are really beginning to see the potential of the region.”

The fourth edition of The HUB will take place at D2 Place, Kowloon, Hong Kong,on 12-13 March 2014.

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THE HUB HITS HOMEWITH THIRD EDITION

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CONTINUED GROWTHFOR SKOPES

British label Skopes has once again experiencedsubstantial growth across its tailoring offer, with a23.9 per cent increase in turnover for the first ninemonths of 2014.

Following a successful s/s 15 selling season,which saw a 100 per cent increase in forward ordersat Moda in August, the brand is continuing to focuson the wholesale market (which has experienced a 43per cent increase across the UK and Ireland), as wellas the digital arm of the business.

“We’re trying to put more emphasis on ourcustomer’s websites,” says Simon Cope, managingdirector, Skopes. “They take the orders, and we sendthem directly to the consumer for them. All they haveto do is put our product on their website. We do therest for them, and any returns come back to us. We’reencouraging independent retailers to take advantageof this through their own websites.”

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CONSUMER SPENDING KEEPSRECOVERY ON TRACK

Consumers are keeping the economic recovery ontrack by increasing their spending, according to asurvey by the Confederation of British Industry.

The survey revealed that only 17 per cent ofretailers reported a fall in sales, compared to 48 percent who said that sales had risen in the time periodfrom September 2013 to September 2014. Sales ofclothing and furniture were particularly strong, withthe industry body describing clothing sales figuresas having “shot up” in the year leading up to this month.

“It seems consumers are still active, but haveeased back on their spending after splashing out ata strong rate overall during the first half of the year,”says economist Howard Archer from IHS GlobalInsight. “Elevated confidence, high and risingemployment and muted inflation is supportive toconsumer spending.”

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NEW TOMMY HILFIGER CHIEF BRAND OFFICER

PVH Europe, parent company to lifestyle labelTommy Hilfiger, has announced the appointment ofAvery Baker to the newly created position of chiefbrand officer for the brand.

Reflecting PVH Europe’s increased focus on theglobal alignment, evolution and elevation of TommyHilfiger, Baker will continue in her role as chiefmarketing officer with an expanded mission to sustainand evolve the label’s market leadership position. Shewill also help drive business strategies that enhanceglobal coordination and alignment across productdivisions, commerce channels and regional markets.

“Avery has incredible expertise in her field anda deep knowledge of the business,” says DanielGrieder, CEO, Tommy Hilfiger. “She is uniquelypositioned to drive the business forward and help usmaintain and grow our leadership position.”

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CALL FOR BIODEGRADABLE CLOTHINGDesigners and retailers should createclothing from materials that are easilybiodegradable, making them more ethicalto dispose of at the end of theirlives, says waste management companyBusiness Waste.

According to the company, up tofive per cent of all rubbish sent tolandfill is clothing and textiles,which can take years to break down. Andwhile some manufacturers areexperimenting with biodegradableclothing, the effort is diminutivecompared to the thousands of tonnes oftextile waste, such as nylon and rayon,disposed of each year.

Figures show that the average lifeof an item of clothing is only threemonths before it is either never wornagain, or discarded. Business Wasteclaims that making clothes out ofeasily degradable materials ensures theitems can at least be shredded andcomposted afterwards.

“Around £140m worth of clothes –1.2 million tonnes – goes to landfillevery year in the UK,” says BusinessWaste spokesperson Mark Hall. “It’s an enormous amount of resource thatbecomes buried in the ground. If wecan’t get out of the habit of binningold clothes, why not make them easilyrecyclable?”

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BOXPARK SCOOPS E-COMMERCE AWARDBoxpark Marketplace has been named asthe best new e-commerce retailer inrecognition of the launch of its e-commerce platform. The pop-up mall,located in London’s Shoreditch,launched the e-commerce platform in abid to “connect the dots between thephysical and the digital”, and to giveindependent retailers a true omni-channel solution.

The accolade for the launch came asthe Ecommerce Awards for Excellence2014 took place at West London’sMarriott Hotel on Grosvenor Square.

“I’m delighted to win the award,”says Boxpark founder Roger Wade.“Boxpark Marketplace is a revolutionaryomni-channel platform for smallindependents. It will hopefully allowthe small retailer to compete with thehigh street.”

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RELOCATION FOR ALVANONApparel size and fit specialist Alvanonhas relocated to bigger premises aspart of its ongoing development. Themove will accommodate the company’s newfashion fit space, as well as itsgrowing strategic consultancy andtraining requirements.

Previously based in London’sNotting Hill, the company is nowlocated on Floor 3, 30 Queensway, West London. All contact informationsuch as the firm’s telephone numberremains the same.

Launching later this year,Alvanon’s fashion fit space will allowdesigners to fit their garments onAlvanon’s entire range of world classtechnical fit forms for a nominal fee.Designers will also be able to takeadvantage of the brand’s consultancyand training facilities.

Founded in 2001, Alvanon is a global leader in providing fullservice integrated fit solutions to theapparel industry.

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IN BRIEF

LABOUR TO COMMIT TO CUTIN BUSINESS RATES

The Labour Party is set to commit to a one per centcut in business rates if they win the 2015 elections.

The plans would see a reversal in the inflation-linked increase set to take place in April 2015, as well scrapping the planned increase in 2016 – amove worth £250m to businesses in 2015 and £540m in 2016.

“As well as leading the debate on fundamentalchange, the BRC has been strongly encouraging thecontinuation of an immediate package for retailers tosuppose the high street and it is very welcome tohear it announced,” says Helen Dickinson, directorgeneral of the British Retail Consortium (BRC).

“UK business rates are the highest propertytaxes of any EU county and lead directly to vacantshops and job losses,” she continues. “It is widelyagreed that the system is no longer fit for purposeand requires total reform.”

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RETAIL TRUST ANNOUNCESTERRY DUDDY AS NEW CHAIR

Retail Trust has appointed Terry Duddy as its newchair, taking over the role from John Lovering.

Duddy, who recently stepped down from hisrole as chief executive of the Home Retail Groupafter 15 years, is one of the longest serving chiefexecutives in the industry. In joining Retail Trust, hebrings a wealth of experience including the journeyfrom analogue to digital retail.

“I am delighted to be appointed chair of RetailTrust at a time when demand for our services isgreater than ever,” says Duddy. “During John’sstewardship the charity has undergone significantchange and the future is about evolving further ourproducts and services to support the 4.5 millionpeople who work in retail and the supporting servicesand related industries.”

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K-WAY OPENS FIRST UK STORE

French outerwear label K-Way has opened its first UKstore in London’s Shoreditch, heralding a period of“aggressive expansion” for the brand.

Already stocked on a wholesale basis by 75selected UK accounts including Urban Outfitters,Asos, Oi Polloi, Aspecto and Stuarts London, themen’s and women’s label will now aim to replicate itsbusiness models in France and Italy with the openingof a network of stores. Currently, the brand has 13standalone stores in Italy and five in its native France,although these figures are set to rise to 14 and 10respectively by the end of next year.

The brand will also seek to increase its offer oftrend-led outerwear, combining its outdoorperformance properties with an increased focus onaesthetic appeal.

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HOUSE OF FRASER TO EXPAND

House of Fraser, which has 59 stores in the UK andIreland, will invest £150m into its UK operation overthe next four years, focusing on its online platformand store revamps.

The news comes following the announcementthat online sales increased by 29 per cent during thefirst half of this year. The rise in online salescontributed to an overall increase of 4.2 per cent inlike-for-like sales during the same period. Menswearsales specifically grew by 9.7 per cent – almost threetimes the rate of the retailer’s womenswear offer.

“We are very pleased with our performanceover the last six months, which has been driven by the continued success of our leading multi-channel offering and the strength of our premiumbranded proposition,” says John King, House ofFraser’s chief executive.

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HUNTER APPOINTS UK & IRELAND COUNTRYMANAGERJason Eames-Illingworth will joinHunter as UK & Ireland country managerin November, after spending time insimilar roles at Tommy Hilfiger,Wrangler and most recently Replay UK.

He will be responsible for thedevelopment and growth of the new brandcategory Hunter Original, whichlaunched at London Fashion Week inFebruary this year. The label’s s/s 15 range was shown at LondonFashion Week in September.

Eames-Illingworth says, “It’s aprivilege and also very exciting to bea part of the Hunter team at such anexciting time for the brand,recognising the opportunity that existsto build Hunter Original. I am reallylooking forward to working with theteam and with retailers to deliver thenew and innovative product offeringwithin the collection to the endconsumer, while expanding the existingfootwear business.”

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THE IDLE MAN SECURES $1.2M INVESTMENTThe Idle Man, the online destinationfor “fashion-savvy” men founded byformer head of menswear at Asos, OliverTezcan, has secured a follow-on roundof investment of $1.2m. The onlineretailer has seen growth of 40 per centmonth-on-month, since its launch in Maythis year, and the funding from privateequity house Foresight Nottingham fundwill assist with its continued growthand expansion.

In addition to the funding, TheIdle Man has also bolstered its seniormanagement team with the appointment ofAmanda Minshull-Beech, former financedirector of Amazon Europe.

The site has also just launched itsfirst exclusive collaboration withHype, one of the UK’s leadingstreetwear brands, on a collection ofT-shirts, hoodies and sweatshirts,ranging in price from £25 for a T-shirtto £40 for a hoody.

The Idle Man will also launch itsown-label range later this month,focusing on the key requirements forevery young man's wardrobe, from T-shirts to sweatshirts and jeans tochinos, all at an affordable price.

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BENCH APPOINTS CHIEF WHOLESALE OFFICER Sebastian Prallet will assume the newlycreated position of chief wholesaleofficer at Bench in November. He willtake charge of the company’s worldwidedistribution via wholesalers, dealingwith around 1,500 wholesale customersincluding 700 in Germany.

Prallet joins Bench fromSwitzerland’s Holy Fashion Group, where he has been head of internationalsales for menswear and womenswear forJoop! since 2010. Previously he hasheld senior sales positions at theAdidas group.

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IN BRIEF

BOOMERANG FRIENDSLAUNCHES IN UK

Swedish label Boomerang has launched itsBoomerang Friends programme in the UK market –a loyalty scheme designed to reward frequentcustomers.

The programme, which represents over 60 percent of the brand’s repeat business in its native Sweden, offers customers monthly productupdates and inspirations, bonus points on everypurchase made in-store, two bonus vouchers peryear, personal shopping experience and VIPinvitations to sale previews.

“Boomerang Friends represents the next step inour customer/sales support,” says Daniel Cutler, UKand Irish distributor for Boomerang. “It’s a way for usto give back something to those that have brought intous and the brand over the last 10 months. It’s also agreat way for us to connect and communicate with newcustomers, without being overtly pushy in our efforts.”

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jan 19–21STATION-Berlin

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FALL/WINTER 2015/16WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | 13

DAVID HARVeyFormer MWB editor Nick Cook remembers the menswear and textilesjournalist, who passed away on 2 September, aged 84.—

David Harvey, who died last month after a shortbattle with cancer, had already lived more thanone life in journalism, textiles and menswear bythe time our paths first crossed in the mid-90s.

Born in 1930, David started his working life asa teenage reporter on his local newspaper theCroydon Times, where from the ground up helearned the research, writing and networking skillsthat would form the foundation of a career whichspanned more than 60 years. Fast-tracked upthrough the ranks, he went on to enjoy many yearsas journalist and editor on publications both in theUK and overseas, before a post at the Ministry ofInformation paved the way for public relationsroles with Savile Row icon Hardy Amies, and theInternational Wool Secretariat. Menswear andtextiles would be his passion from this point onand, when David returned to journalism in the 80s,it was as a menswear and textiles specialist on astring of titles including Drapers Record,Menswear and The Observer.

In the early 90s David took up the role of UKpress representative for Florence trade showorganiser Pitti Immagine, and it was through hiswork for Pitti Uomo that I was introduced to a manwhose interest, enthusiasm, knowledge andhumour I was fortunate enough to enjoy for thebest part of the last 20 years.

I first met David at a Christmas press lunch,hosted by the trade show Premier Collections, ata time when exhibitions still had the kind of PRbudgets that could bankroll a festive afternoon atThe Ivy for a rogues’ gallery of trade and consumerjournos and an accompanying cast of livelyindustry luminaries. Either by accident or design –I was the newly appointed editor of MWB – Davidand I were seated together. “I hear you’re runninga rather interesting menswear magazine based inthe North,” said David, demonstrating thecuriosity and impeccable manners which dictatedthat he should always know at least somethingencouraging about any new arrival. “Perhaps weought to invite you over to Florence?”

I made my first trip in June the following yearand, over the course of each new season’s show,

and of the leisurely press lunches at San Lorenzothat preceded them, I got to know David as awonderful storyteller, a mine of industryinformation, a consummate host, an expert atintroductions, and a great friend.

David’s untiring interest in people, and hisjournalistic nose for a good story, made himperfectly suited to his work with Pitti Uomo, andDavid’s table in the Pitti press restaurant, or thelounge of the Beacci hotel, which was his homefrom home whenever he was in town, was thestarting point from which so many of us Britishjournalists would set out in search of a hot lead,an interesting brand, a new contact or amemorable night out in Florence. Like so manypeople in the industry, I’ll be forever grateful toDavid for introducing me over those years toamazing places I’ll always remember, and topeople who remain friends to this day.

Dinner with David in Florence, or lunch withhim at The Mill, the converted watermill inCuxham, Oxfordshire, which was his home forover 50 years, was always guaranteed to be bothan entertainment and an education. I’m sure I’mnot the only person in the industry to have wishedthat David had turned his journalistic skills to thewriting of his own memoirs – not so much forpublication but rather to provide a record for posterity of the perfectly pitched stories thatwould pepper his conversations, but which I, for

one, could never recount with anything like thesame style or sparkling turn of phrase. David hadthe most amazing memory for both history, inwhich he was incredibly knowledgeable andcompletely self-taught, and for events from hisown fantastically varied and colourful life.

Countless mill visits, and numerous trips toHarrogate during its decades-long run as a venuefor national menswear exhibitions, had fed inDavid a genuine love of the North, and he’drecount stories of travelling up to Leeds in aprivate Pullman carriage with Hardy Amies and histeam, with the station porters staring aghast at theflamboyant attire of this group of peacockingLondon dandies. When the Hardy Amies brandwas revived by a recent licensee, and I walked intoits Edinburgh store to see a six-foot photographof David, Amies and their finely attired colleaguesdisplayed on the wall behind the counter, I couldeasily see why.

But although David could, if pushed, haveeasily recounted a personal history of the goldenage of the menswear industry (with the odd taleof, say, emigrating by boat to Australia, or dancingwith Grace Jones at Club Sept in Paris thrown infor good measure), he was never one to live onpast glories. Even well into his 80s David was stilladding new names of all ages to his ever-growingcircle of friends, and I know that every one of usfeels lucky, and privileged, to have known him.

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ONLINe INSIDeRAdvice, news and issues online.

WeB WATCH

WWW.HANCOCkVA.COM

The British luxury outerwear company hasredeveloped its website with the launch of its newe-commerce service and the addition of aninnovative bespoke tool. The bespoke featureenables users to choose from two men’s andwomen’s silhouettes, as well as the ability to re-colour different elements. Shoppers will also beable to customise 16 different sections of thejacket such as collars, cuffs, vents, pockets andsleeves, as well as the choice of a variety ofHancock’s signature vulcanised cloths. Makingsure the brand is at the forefront of technology,the new service is enabled to use on all devisesincluding tablets and mobiles.

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ADVICE: MANAGING THe SPeeD OFFAST FASHION ONLINe

TONy BRyANT isHead of businessdevelopment at k3 Retail and can be contacted viawww.k3retail.com

Retailers need to adapt to the ever-evolving needs of the consumer toremain relevant in a multi-channel marketplace that is dictated by fast-moving trends – fuelled by a heady mix of celebrity culture, catwalkcouture and heightened demand for transitional pieces.

A single view of the concept-to-consumer process can create shorterdecision cycles, improving responsiveness throughout the supply chain toget “hot off the runway” products to market quickly.

With such a fast-paced turnaround, the life cycle of fashion products isinvariably short and complex. Timing these life cycles, especially when thereare multiple items within the process, can maximise revenues and minimiserisk. Integrated product data and life cycle management models are animportant weapon in the fashion retailers’ armoury; getting products to railsfaster, while controlling timely markdowns. This pull-and-push mechanicensures a seamless flow of hot-to-trot stock is available at any one time,stimulating demand and encouraging repeat custom.

As the trend for transitional items grows, so will the need for retailersto adopt more frequent delivery drops throughout the season. A unified viewof stock order management can increase targeted deliveries, based onhistoric sales data, while providing an “at a glance” overview of the availabilityof existing items and variants across different channels.

Rather than a one-size-fits-all approach, retail technology embodiesexpression, without constraint or compromise. Ax|is fashion from K3 is aconcept-to-consumer solution, built on Microsoft Dynamics for Retail andfurther enhanced to meet the unique and exacting needs of the fashion andapparel industry. Providing one solution that works across all the elementsin the value chain, it delivers even more agility and insight for retailers whoare looking to quickstep with fast fashion.

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RASCALS LAUNCHES ONLINE Scandinavian streetwear label Rascalshas made its first foray into e-commercewith the launch of its online retail arm.

Selling the brand’s a/w 14collection, the website offers freeshipping within Europe, tax-freepurchases outside the EU and a $15charge for shipping to North America.

In addition to complete collectionsfour times a year, the Copenhagen labelwill also stock online-exclusiveproducts in the current months.

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INDUSTRY DOUBTS OVER ASOS RECOVERYOnline retail giant Asos may feel theeffects of its recent profit warnings,according to a new report by industryanalyst Finspreads.com. The retailer –which is one of the UK’s biggestpurveyors of branded fashion – recentlyissued its third profit warning in six months after its shares fell by 14 per cent.

“The market is beginning to wonderif Asos is capable of making a comebackafter being hit by so many troubles insuch a short space of time; threeprofit warnings in six months and afire which destroyed up to £30m worthof stock,” says Warren Ruhomon, marketanalyst at Finspreads.com. “The worstcase scenario is that the brand or theshares could become an unsustainableproposition. In that case, we wouldexpect a private equity or industrybuyer – perhaps the owners ofBoohoo.com – to come forward.

“However, most likely is thatoperations and revenues will stabilisein the second quarter of 2015,” hecontinues. “I do think Asos still has alot going for it and its credit appearsto be in excellent health.”

The news comes following reportsthat some of Asos’ key suppliers arethreatening to pull out of partnershipswith the retailer, following its heavyapproach to discounting, which somebrands see as too competitive againsttheir own in-house sales channels.Next’s newly launched Label channel –an online forum from which the retailwill sell branded collections fromdesigners such as Lipsy and Lyle &Scott – may be an alternative optionfor suppliers seeking an alternativesales platform.

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NeWS

JOHN LAMBeRT is apartner in County Clothesmenswear, which has storesin Canterbury andTenterden. County Clothesis a member of the Fashion

Association of Britain (FAB).

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

ReTAILINSIDeR

VIEWPOINT

I was delighted to receive the BestIndependent Retailer award at the IMC showin August. I actually received the same awarda couple of years ago, but since then I’vebecome a partner in the business and haveinitiated several changes, including a re-fit anda repositioning of the business.

On the back of those changes, it wasespecially rewarding to be recognised again. Ihave endeavoured to meet the needs of theyounger customer by developing a youngerdepartment within the shop by introducingbrands such as Digel Move and Olymp body-fit shirts. We already carried Digel, butDigel Move is a more fashion-led, slimmer-cutrange dedicated to the 20-30 year-oldcustomer. Interestingly, it has not soldexclusively to the customer we had in mind,and we’ve found that Digel Move and Olympbody-fit have developed a following among theolder customer, too.

As an independent retailer, I think whatmarks us out, among other things, is ourproduct knowledge and commitment to thetrade. I’ve worked in the fashion industry sinceI was 17 years old and I dare say that theexperience shows when you are served bysomeone who knows what they are talkingabout. Product knowledge and being able totalk to customers in a respectful way speaksvolumes about your business. We prideourselves on the fact that we know about theproduct we are selling. We know about the fabrics that are used; why they have beenchosen for that garment and how they areconstructed. I feel that it’s important. Productknowledge says a lot about the store; it showsyou are interested in what you are selling, andthat matters.www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

TIMBERLAND UNVEILS NEWFLAGSHIP CONCEPT

Timberland has revealed its newly redesigned Regent Street flagship store – a one-off concept designwith aims to further cement its position as an outdoor lifestyle brand.

Set across two floors, the shop will continue to stock the full men’s, women’s and children’scollections, with a dedicated footwear area and brand experience room that will allow shoppers tocustomise their purchases on-site.

Speaking exclusively to MWB’s Tom Bottomley, Mike Connell, vice president of European Retail,explains who the brand is now appealing to consumer-wise. “We wanted to give solutions to our loyalconsumers by showing our heritage, craftsmanship and quality, but we were also looking to appeal toa consumer who is on the go, enjoys the social aspect of the outdoor life in the city and the need to beready for anything.

“We believe we are showing a younger and more lifestyle side of Timberland, and this how wewant to move forward in the following seasons,” he continues. “The UK is one of the biggest marketsfor Timberland, and London is the city where trends start in Europe. It is definitely a strong brandstatement to have our ‘re-imagined’ flagship store in London.”

—

IN BRIeF

The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.—

THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY OPENS NEW STOREThe Cambridge Satchel Company has openeda new flagship store in London’s CoventGarden. The 3,239 sq ft shop on JamesStreet features two designated retailfloors and three further floors of officespace for the brand, including a showroom.The opening follows a $21m investment fromIndex Ventures in January of this year, aswell as a number of new appointmentsincluding Mario Muttenthaler, who joins as CMO from MrPorter.com, and JonnyWooldridge who joins as CTO from M&S.

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ACCENT CELEBRATES 30 YEARSLeeds indie Accent celebrated its 30thanniversary last month, with an in-storeparty and special brand collaborations.Taking place on 25 September, the eventincluded a customisation stand from denimspecialist Replay, as well as a series ofAnniversary jeans, numbered in a limited-edition wash, with leather patches andAccent embossed logo. The independentretailer also showcased a/w 14 collectionsin a fashion show, as well as welcoming anappearance from Bez of The Happy Mondays.

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www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: uttER NuttER

IN FOCUS: wood

CONTENT & CO OPENSITS DOORS

Edwin Europe and independent retailer The Content Store have announced the openingof Content & Co in Exmouth Market.

Conceived from a mutual respect andfriendship between Mark Batista, owner of The Content Store, and globally respected denimgiant Edwin Europe, the collaborative shop willstock the broadest range of Edwin Europe’s denimand apparel, outside the brand’s existingstandalone store in Shoreditch.

The contemporary retail space will also offercomplementary labels including Our Legacy,Aspesi, Barena, Alden, Nike and Mismo.

Content & Co aims to offer a moredirectional approach to menswear than theoriginal Content Store on Lambs Conduit Street.

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as a big denim retailer, what brands are currently doing it for you?We’ve had a big sea change in our denim – beginning with this season.We’ve dropped a few brands because the sell-throughs weren’t highenough, and because they stopped doing 30-inch leg lengths, whichis a considerable part of our business. We are also seeing a return ofbig brands such as Levi’s, Diesel and Replay. Nudie continues to dowell for us, too. Levi’s has also come back on and done amazingly well.—what about in terms of price points and fits?

Jeans that sell between £80 and £120 tend to do thebest. And the brands aforementioned are thestrongest in that price category. Every jean istapered these days, whether you’re talking about aslim-fit, regular or loose-fit jean. So there’s a large

variety of blocks above the knee, but knee down it’s all tapered. Theregular five-pocket straight denim has still got a market, and alwayswill because of the older customers, but we’re even finding that someof the older customers want a tapered leg, too.—do you sell the footwear to go with the jeans?Absolutely – we merchandise the belts and the shoes to go with them.And we also like to show them that they can wear the jeans outshopping on a Saturday with a pair of Converse, as well as a smartershoe on a Friday night. This is Essex after all! Bass Weejuns loafers dovery well for us, as do Reece James shoes.

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NIXON MAKES UK DEBUTWatch and apparel brand Nixon opened itsfirst ever UK store at the beginning ofthis month, following its latest openingin Paris in September. Located on NewburghStreet, in London’s Soho, the storefeatures products from the brand’s men’sand women’s watch collections, apparel andaccessories, including headphones andmobile speakers. The store will alsofeature Nixon's Customisation Bar –offering customers the opportunity tocustomise and create a one-of-a-kindtimepiece, working from three styles andbuilding their own identity includingwatch face, casing, strap and engraving onthe back.

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kaShIF QazI, OWNER,UTTER NUTTER,ROMFORD, ESSEX

55 oldham StREEt, maNchEStER m1 1JR

EStaBlIShEd: 2004BRaNdS: PENFIELD.STÜSSY, SAUCONY, NIKE,PUBLISH, RAINS,HERSCHEL, ICECREAM,BEASTIN, THEHUNDREDS, 10 DEEP,NATIVE YOUTH, ASICS,GOURMET, TEN C,MONITALY, DELPH, CLAE, SOULLAND,BROOKLYN WE GOHARD, ELVINE, SCHOTT

Now in its 10th anniversary year, wood on oldham Street in manchester’s Northern Quarter,formerly home to the infamous Factory Records, has been quietly championing original anddirectional menswear since its inception in 2004. It opened a second store in Huddersfield in 2008,relocating it in 2013 with a new shop fit – as well as putting new emphasis on its website businessvia www.ashopcalledwood.com.

The Manchester store is often at the forefront of breaking new brands. It’s described as a“crystal ball” for the Huddersfield shop, staying one step ahead, so the brand mix does vary a littlebetween each shop, as does the customer base. Wood also championed the likes of Barbour jacketsa few years back as more of a fashion garment, well before they enjoyed the mass revival of today.It’s also a long time stockist of Stüssy and other American, or American-influenced, streetwearbrands. The likes of 10 Deep, Beastin and Mishka are popular in-store, and Wood buys into the labelsthat industry folk love, such as Monitaly and Soulland, while also realising good numbers in terms ofsales with the likes of Native Youth, Icecream and The Hundreds.

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IN BRIEF

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | INTERVIEW | 18

CeO AND MANAGING DIReCTORR.M. WILLIAMS

INTeRVIeW

Australia’s iconic “bush outfitter”R.M. Williams now has a much morefashion-focused offering whileretaining its heritage appeal andcraftsmanship. With new investmentfrom L Capital, the private equitybusiness sponsored by LVMH, thereis also a new push on the uk andeuropean wholesale markets, as wellas plans for further retail, as TomBottomley discovers from CeO andmanaging director Hamish Turner.—Tom Bottomley: What’s R.M. Williams’ history inthe uk?Hamish Turner: R.M. Williams the brand has beenin the UK since the first store opened inKnightsbridge in 1989. But the man himself, R.M.,which stands for Reginald Murray but he wasalways just known as R.M. – even by his kids – wasmaking trips to the UK and Ireland to look forbeautiful fabrics and raw materials for hisproducts as far back as the early 50s. He landedin London, got in a cab, and asked if he could bedriven to Edinburgh. For him, looking at the map,it was just a standard drive compared to Australia.The cabbie looked at him funnily, asked if he wasserious, but took him all the same. So the firstimmediate tie to the UK was for the supply of theraw materials back in to Australia. At the time, UKfibres, fabrications and even leathers were theworld’s best. —TB: What was his background?HT: He was born and raised in Prospect, SouthAustralia, where our factory remains today. We stillown the original address, too, at 5 Percy Street,where we now have a store and a museum. It wasoriginally his father’s house, and R.M. set up thebeginnings of the first factory in 1932 – in an ironwoodshed in the back yard. In Australia, R.M. is atrue icon, and a figure that represents trueAustralian heritage. The Prime Minister namedhim a National Living Treasure when he was stillaround – an accolade awarded to exceptional

HAMISH TuRNeR

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | INTERVIEW | 19

Australians with substantial and enduringaccomplishments in their field. R.M. died in 2003,aged 95 – a good innings for anyone – and thefederal government provided a national funeral.—TB: How is R.M. Williams perceived in Australia?HT: He created the products for what we call the“bush” and you call the Outback. A lot of peoplearound the world have heard of, or bought, ourboots, but sometimes the man’s status and legendisn’t always early understood outside Australia. Hisis a story of a true pioneer and entrepreneur. —TB: How did the creation of the boots comeabout?HT: His first products were pack saddles – for thesecond horse that’s not ridden but carries all thesupplies. But then he met a fellow called DollarMick around a camp fire in the bush. Betweenthem they worked out how to make a boot out ofonly one piece of leather, with just a seam at theback of the boot – which we still do today – sothere were no other seams or edges where thestitching could wear away or break. A lot of themen in the bush at the time liked to wear socks,but there wasn’t really a way to repair them whenout in the bush, so you needed to be able to havea totally smooth-fitting piece of leather on yourfoot. They also found at the time that, for heels onboots, when you pushed them up against a stirrupthey could break – dangerous when in a gallop. Sothey worked out how to attach the heel so it wasvery strong and wouldn’t come off. —TB: How did the business develop in those earlyyears?HT: They made the boots, started wearing themand sold a few pairs. R.M. was smart enough to puthis name and address on the boot tug of each pair.Word spread among guys out in the bush sittingaround campfires as to how good the boots were,and with the name and address on the boot tugs,they could write to R.M. Williams and order a pair.The rule was you had to send the money with theorder. That’s how it started, and today we’reproducing 150,000 pairs of handmade boots ayear, exporting to 15 countries, and we operate avery large retail network in Australia.—TB: What has triggered this new push for thebrand into other markets?HT: Over all the years of development of thefootwear and apparel, in May last year it was

enough to attract the interests of the L CapitalAsia group, a private equity business sponsoredby LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). Theybought into R.M. Williams as a 49.9 per centshareholder. That development has come aboutwith Ken Cowley, who is the chairman and 51 percent owner and was one of R.M.’s best friends, aswell as having been Rupert Murdoch’s right-handman for some 45 years. Cowley was 100 per centowner of R.M. Williams for 11 years prior to thisdeal. With the LVMH background, L Capitalobviously brings with it a huge amount of talentwhen it comes to brand building, as well as amassive worldwide network. The strategy was putin place to take R.M. Williams to a much biggeraudience while still keeping the core brand DNA.The UK and Europe are being targeted first, todevelop the label and the product there over thenext two-three years. Once we have thatacceptance and success in the UK and Europe, wewill take the brand back into Asia, which is thelargest emerging middle to luxury market.—TB: Is it now so much more than about thefamous R.M. Williams boots?HT: Over the last 80 years, the company hasalways dressed people from head to toe. And wehave over 360 people in our factory handcraftingour boots every day. There are 68 hand-heldprocesses to produce a pair of our boots. They area fully lasted Goodyear welt, and we use the finestleathers in the world. Our Craft Line, in terms ofour belts, bags and other leather accessories isalso big business – around 200,000 units a year,all hand-crafted in Australia. And we have a fulljean production – and were the first denim-makerin Australia, as well as a big shirt and outerwearbusiness. With the new push into Europe, we’ve expanded the line to ensure we’ve used thequintessential elements of the brand and its 80 years of heritage, as well as thedesign expertise of ourcreative director JonathanWard – one of Australia’s mostprominent designers whoseown couture creations have dressed the likes of KylieMinogue, Elle Macpherson and Nicole Kidman. We alsonow have other seniordesigners in Europe.—

TB: What direction has the collection taken?HT: The line we launched at the last Bread &Butter for s/s 15 has more of a UK and Europeanappeal. There’s still a real sense of Australia, interms of product delivery across both men’s andwomen’s, but we’re also now giving a European fitand feel to the product range – which lets us takethat next step forward in the marketplace. There are unique requirements to differentmarkets in terms of design, fit, style, fabricationsand colour choice, and now we can do it. Theresponse has been great in the first season. Ouraccounts in the UK have doubled already. It’s notoften that you start to look at the better-endretailers in your first season with a new offer, butwe have been targeting the likes of Selfridges,Harvey Nichols, Liberty, Harrods and Fenwick. Thebig plus is that Mr Porter has been secured onmen’s, and will carry our footwear online for s/s 15.Kurt Geiger is also taking it. But we still supplypeople in the bush now for their workingrequirements; in fact we sell more into regionalAustralia than we ever did. Outerwear forms animportant part of that.—TB: Is the outerwear requirement for europedifferent?HT: yes – largely because of the climate. That’swhere we can utilise modern techniques andfabrications. There’s still a sense of styling that tiesit back to what we’ve created for our homemarket, but it’s higher end. For men, there’s the“panel” jacket, which has unique stitching anddesign elements and takes its inspiration fromAustralia. There’s also a reversible jacket called theWestern Ridge Mac, which is a great piece.—TB: What are the plans for your own retail?HT: We’ve been on New Bond Street for

nearly five years – and thatshop will be getting a faceliftfor spring 2015. There is now a chance to bring thebest of R.M. Williams into the UK and Europe – in a farmore sophisticated way, andyes we will be looking at otherretail opportunities. We will be doing that in the next 12-18 months, with selectlocations where we will createour new delivery of our R.M.Williams stores.

“Word spread amongguys out in the bushsitting aroundcampfires as to howgood the bootswere, and with thename and addresson the boot tugs,they could write toR.M. Williams and order a pair”

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 21

Established by menswear designer Benjamin Crane in 2012, Bee was born from a belief that high-performanceclothing can be fashionable as it is able. “It’s about creating clothing without compromise – believing that“performance” doesn’t have to be worn on your sleeve and that balancing function with form is what makes agarment truly wearable and covetable,” says Crane. Standing at the core of the a/w 14 collection is the label’souterwear, with signature duffles, trenches and smock coats all making an appearance in Bee’s bright andcolourful DNA. In terms of brand development, buyers – who currently include Number Six London, By-Walskiand Best of British Store – can expect to see the introduction of knitwear and shirting, as well as an innovativewaterproof pac-a-blazer and a secret collaboration with a key bag label. www.beeclo.com

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G E N T

MakING abee lINe

22 Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

24 In-season stockParka and ride

26 One step beyondThe news and developments from mainstream footwear

28 Starting from the bottom upMWB’s seasonal footwear shoot

34 Moda GentIndustry insiders reveal what’s new for s/s 15

36 Classic gift guideGifts, accessories and essential extras designed for your festive offer

JOHN POUNDRELAUNCHESINTO WHOLESALEMARKET

As the “oldest luggagebrand in the world”,John Pound certainlyhas a number ofarchives to go through,and with its relaunchback into the wholesalemarket for a/w 14, that’sexactly what the labelintends to do.

Starting life in theCity of London in 1823,the brand designed andproduced trunks andluggage for the gentryfrom its base inLeadenhall Street.Designer StuartEggleton acquired therights to the brand in

2013 from John Lewis Plc, and has revived thebrand with a small but concise collection, withretail prices starting at £750 for a briefcase.

John Pound will donate 10 per cent of profits to educational charities, with Eggletonhaving a keen interest in this area due to his ownbattle with dyslexia.

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www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 22

radarSpotlighting style.

PrOduCt NewSInside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2013—SIGNATURE STYLE: Garments in the label’s casual range feature aniconic sewn-on patch, identifying them as Kempes products.—HISTORY: Co-founders Danny Passarella, David Pinder and GavinSkelton created the brand’s first collection using inspiration from AldousHuxley’s The Doors of Perception, focusing on the quote, “There arethings known, and there are things unknown. In between lie the doors ofperception.”

After launching its first collection for s/s 14, menswear label kempes willfeature different subjects that define each range going forward. Thebrand is the brainchild of Danny Passarella and a new direction for thedesigner, who has already made a name for himself in the industry.Bright colour selections used in the new range shows a move away fromthe monochrome palette and casual styling of Passarella’s establishedT-shirt brand Passarella’s Death Squad.

Using specialist British craftsmen and Japanese-sourced fabrics,the label’s latest collection includes suits in crimson red and bright blue,featuring wide-legged pleat-front trousers and strong attention todetail. Psychedelic designs are at the forefront of the casual side of thecollection, with garments featuring a distinctive pocket patch on T-shirts,shirts and sweaters. Japanese denim is used for three jeans stylesincluding wide-leg, straight fit and loose fit. Wholesale prices averageat around £90.www.kempesclothing.co.uk

kEMPES

OHW? EXPANDS INTOACCESSORIES

Contemporary footwear label Ohw? has expanded into accessories for a/w 14,with the launch of its firstbackpack.

Following the brand’ssignature “back to basics”design ethos, the backpack ismade from grey wool and tanfull-grain leather, wholesalingat £80, with an RRP of £200.

The size markers alongthe cut edge of the leather atthe bottom of the bag aresignature details that appearon the uppers of all Ohw?shoes, and are the traditional way thatshoemakers indicate the sizes of cut pieces. The bag, meanwhile, has insidecompartments and is fully lined in synthetic nubuck.

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ON TREND

designers Ian Campbell Cole and Felicity baggett created accessoriesbrand Campbell Cole out of a shared appreciation for a minimalist look.

The brand’s Annex collection made its debut earlier this year. Inspiredby modern living architecture, the range of contemporary bags and small leather goods are designed to act as a portable living space forbelongings to allow easy organisation of daily essentials. Soft premiumleather and the fine attention to detail embodied in the range reflect and promote the brand’s overall approach to design. With pieces made and designed in England, the result is products that boast sleek, luxurious exteriors.

Having a strong belief that accessories can enhance everyday life,products undergo a well-thought-out design process and are balanced withdetailing and functionality. Both Cole and Baggett maintain a meticulousapproach to design, which is reflected in the end product. Each piece issubmitted to an intricate manufacturing process before being presented,including tweaking and refining, and finally finished in specialist Uk factories.

Cole and Baggett also feature the work of other British designers thatshare the brand’s ethos, and are keen supporters of independents. www.campbellcole.co.uk

braNd tO watCh

ESTABLISHED: 2014—SIGNATURE STYLE: A meticulous approach todesign, exploring sculptural form and balancing it withessential detailing and effortless functionality. —HISTORY:Designer Ian Campbell Colestarted the brand with a smallrange of nylon and leather bags,which laid the foundations for acontemporary aesthetic.

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1: GUIDE£5.50 020 7481 1111

2: MERC£10 020 7495 8538

3: MINIMUM£10 07966 465456

4: SOXKSprice on request 0116 236 2304

5: CAMEL ACTIVEprice on request 0161 234 0999

Seasonal extras: winter warmers

CAMPBELL COLE

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

FRED BENNETT UNVEILS NEWCOLLECTION

Fred Bennett, the British jewellery and accessorieslabel, has unveiled the latest additions to its s/s 15offering with the introduction of watches to its offer.

The Classic FB watch, crafted from polished andmatt stainless steel, features a navy blue dial, offering amodel and masculine style, while the Fred BennettSports Watch features a chronograph with day, dateand 24-hour indicators displayed on a matt black dialwith a distinctive orange second hand. Both styles arewater resistant up to 200m. RRP prices range from £75 to £85.

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Parka aNd rIdePrepare shoppers for the elements this winter, with a

comprehensive offering of investment outerwear. while paddeddown jackets are still present, it’s the parka silhouette that returns

to reign supreme.—


CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 0161 234 0999 ANTHONY MORATO £84.00 020 7739 8560 MA.STRUM PRICE ON REQUEST 01268 564636

MERC £55 020 7495 8538 BOOMERANG £179 01252 725200 DOUGLAS & GRAHAME £47.95 033 34567777

GEOX £62.40 020 3227 0502

G LAB £240 020 7636 6088 SPIEWAK £160 07773 775092 PARKA LONDON £97 020 7424 6887

www.gucinari.co.uk

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | FOOTWEAR | 26

ONe SteP beyONdwhile footwear remains classic in terms of silhouettes and popularstyles, interest for the new season comes from pops of colour and a pared-down, casual offering.—

LOAKE

In its premium 1880 range, styles such as the Taunton brogue (pictured), a two-tone shoe with Goodyear welted soles, reflect British label Loake’s overallfocus on updating classic styles with contemporary features for s/s 15. Newmaterial and colour combinations work together to create the main look of the season. —

AIGLE

Defined by modernity and simplicity, Aigle’s s/s 15 collection takes its inspiration from thegarden and the lush flora and fauna within. Theseason opens with a focus on burnt orangeshades and moss green accents, withsophisticated tones of grey and soft yellowemerging later. With details that are inspired bythe brand’s heritage, fabrics reflect the season’slighter mood and fine prints are contrasted withvolume and military highlights. —

BARBOUR

Creating twists on the modern classic, Barbourupholds a diverse offering for s/s 15. In the brand’sHeritage range, styles such as Valiant (pictured), atrainer shoe with tweed fabric to the upper, reflecta fusion of relaxed and formal. Meanwhile, theInternational range features the Randall, avulcanised suede shoe featuring a crepe effect soleand quilted profile stitching. The plain toe suedeFarsley chelsea boot heads up the Lifestyle range,featuring dark green soft leather linings.

BASE LONDON

Unveiling a contemporary fashion look with a luxury edge, Base London usesideas from around the word for its travel-inspired s/s 15 collection. Expect to seestriking colours influenced by vibrant Eastern spice markets, leisure stylespresented in woven and punched leathers, formal choices that blend classicBritish design with seasonal flashes of colour and lighter suede alternatives thatupdate the look for warmer weather.—

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | FOOTWEAR | 27

J SHOES

J Shoes returns with its trademark classic and heritage styles,which form the foundation of this season’s look. key piecesinclude suede driving moccasins in tones of red, purple andyellow, while traditionally-styled brogues and chukkas continueto be strong alongside the Instructor range, featuring softrubber soles and clean canvas uppers. —

FRANK WRIGHT

Incorporating seasonal trends and classic styles, Frank Wrightintroduces distressed and antiqued leathers together with suedeand waxed leather options this season for understated styling. keystyles, such as Bognor in tan leather (pictured), feature contraststitching, leather and and brogue detailing. Meanwhile,contemporary touches come in statement shades of caramel, rust, ocean and grey. —

BARKER

Quintessential British footwear label Barker continues itslove affair with heritage styling for the new season, andalthough tradition is at the core of its design ethos, s/s 15sees the introduction of bold splashes of colour. Acrossthe brand’s comprehensive collection of both men’s andwomen’s footwear, key styles include Barker’s signaturebrogues and Derbys, with vivid colour panelling andcontrasting laces. —

SEBAGO

Sebago’s popular and iconic Docksides (pictured) return updated for s/s 15.Available in new colour combinations with matching slip-resistant soles andlaces, the hand-stitched moccasins maintain comfort and durability and comein a mixture of materials including premium leather, nubuck, suede orneoprene uppers.—

GUIDE LONDON

This season Guide London offers a diverse range of footweardesigns, with the aim of presenting an on-trend shoe for everyoccasion. Following on from the previous season’s success, keystyles include brogues, suede driving shoes and slip-on espadrilles.key season colours burgundy, cobalt and brown bring acontemporary update to the look. —

STARTINGFROM THEBOTTOMMWB SHOWCASES THE SHOEESSENTIALS TO ADD TO YOURFOOTWEAR OFFER THISCOMING SPRING/SUMMER 2015,FROM CATWALK-INSPIRED SLIP-ONS TO THE CLASSICNEUTRAL DESERT BOOT.

Photographs www.chrisharveyphoto.com 07549 811066


1: CROFORD BY HENGST £17.25 01785 662102 • 2: ROAMERS £13.75 0116 240 32323: BASE LONDON £31.15 020 8532 0000 • 4: FRONT £23.90 020 8773 7800

5: HEY DUDE £25.20 01202 575394 • 6: PARADIGMA £54 07813 212416

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COLOUR POPPING—

1: BRAKEBURN £14.58 01203 338500 • 2: BIRKENSTOCK PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7371 65543: BUGATTI £29.16 01604 686800 • 4: BEACH ATHLETICS £12.75 01633 271488

5: DR. MARTENS £37.50 0845 769 7178 • 6: MUSTANG PRICE ON REQUEST 07974 155274

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SLIP STYLE—

1: QUAYSIDE £32.50 01275 392694 • 2: COTSWOLD £16.66 01452 7273003: BRAKEBURN £18.75 01202 338500 • 4: CHATHAM MARINE £22.90 0845 270 0217

5: CAMEL ACTIVE £39.60 01642 677222 • 6: AIGLE £41.70 01608 813860

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DOCK OF THE BAY—

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GOING GREEN—

1: MOCCAMOCCA BY JOHN WHITE £29.95 01933 410584 • 2: CHATHAM MARINE £37.10 0845 2700 2173: DJINNS £21.74 01202 575394 • 4: JUSTIN REECE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8809 7052

5: PARADIGMA £40 07813 212416 • 6: BONNARUE PRICE ON REQUEST 0085 235639344 • 7: RM WILLIAMS £88 07774 722757

1: JUSTIN REECE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8809 7052 • 2: BASE LONDON £31.15 020 8532 00003: CAMEL ACTIVE £37.50 01642 677222 • 4: BIRKENSTOCK £62 020 7371 6554

5: BARBOUR £50 0191 455 4444 • 6: FRONT £21.75 020 8773 7800

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NEUTRAL TERRITORY—

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | MODA | 34

MOdaGeNt

with a refreshed look and a revised layout, the mood around Moda Gent’s s/s 15 edition in august wasupbeat. Mwb caught up with some of the show’s key exhibitors to find out how business is faring, and

what plans they have for the new season. —

darIa POhlMaNN, uk exPOrtMaNaGer, Meyer hOSeN

“As always, Moda has been a great show for Meyer –the new layout and look of the event indicates somereal investment from the brands surrounding uswhich is an indicator of how the market is improvingas a whole. We’ve opened six to eight new accountsand have had a growing number of returningstockists, which is just as, if not more, important tous as opening new doors is. We’ve seen a 10 per

cent increase across the Uk market year-on-year and want to retain ourposition as the leaders in the country’s trouser segment. Growth to us hasto be organic, so it’s about moving forward slowly but surely, rather than ata fast pace when potential mistakes could arise. An important thing Meyerhas introduced, and it’s been a great decision to do so, is Uk sizes. Also ourpremium line – MMX – has seen its popularity in the Uk continue to grow.We’ve only really pushed forward with a soft launch this season because wewant customers to gain confidence in the product line so retailers are ableto order a smaller quantity to test the water first.”

MarCO VaGhettI, head OFCreatIVe, GOOdwIN SMIth

“Originally launched in 1928, Goodwin Smith wasthe brainchild of two rival shoemakers – ErnieGoodwin and Walter Smith – who decided to joinforces to create their own brand. Myself and friendTim Smith decided to relaunch the label with a softlaunch last season. This season, however, we’rereally driving forward with our presence inindependents. We’re already stocked in the likes of

Room 14 and Intro, with 80 accounts nationwide. We’ve found we’ve donereally well with gentleman’s outfitters and, with the average pair of shoes inthe collection wholesaling at £30 and retailing at around £90, we offer a goodmark-up. Aimed at the 21-30 market, we’ve tried to harness the power ofsocial media to get the end consumer interested in our product, so ourTwitter, Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram accounts all have the same“young and carefree” tone of voice. Linking up with celebrities and brandambassadors has also been really successful for us with this demographic.You’ll see Goodwin Smith on the likes of Calum Best, racing driver OliverWebb and reality stars including Jamie Laing and Ross Worswick.”

JONathaN keNyON, SaleS aGeNt,beNCh

“There’s a massive peak in the Uk market right nowfor performancewear, and Bench is experiencingsuch a positive response to the s/s 15 collection. Forus as a brand it’s about re-educating the endconsumer about who Bench is now, as opposed towho we were years back. We certainly haven’t lostour roots, but we have developed and grown as abrand. It’s about building the confidence of the

retailer and, even though we’ve opened new accounts here at Moda, it’s notabout volume; it’s about maintaining our current relationships season afterseason. Bench has invested close to £2m with the aim of owning the marketwe currently sit in. We want to see Bench sit confidently next to the likes ofNorth Face and Patagonia and, with our new multi-purpose collection, I thinkit’s something we can execute. To distinguish the two lines – City andPerformance – we’ve kept the original branding for City and introduced anew branding for Performance, adding features such as safety reflectivity,versatility found in outerwear, which turns into a travel pillow and built-insunblock throughout our T-shirt range.”

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | MODA | 35

SIMON Parr,SaleS dIreCtOr, GIbSON

“This season has been a really strong start forGibson. Obviously a/w 14 is notably stronger, forModa and for brand as a whole, but we’ve seensome key accounts and opened a number of newdoors. I actually saw a retailer who I initially saw atJacket Required earlier on in the season, and whoflew in from Germany to specifically sit down andwrite an order here. We’ve also had a representative

from Aston Villa Football Club looking for suits for the team, as well as onlineshop MyTuxedo looking for both full suits and jackets. In terms of product,our patch pocket, one-button linen and cotton-mix jacket (£55 wholesale)has seen a great reaction, as has our seeksucker three-piece suit, whichfeatures shorts – a new addition for us this season – and is really well-pricedat £60 for the jacket, £22 for the waistcoat and £20 for the shorts. Althoughwe haven’t pushed our accessories as much as we did last season, we’ve stillkept the tweed hats and will be putting a bigger focus on this area of thecollection for a/w 15.”

brIaN wINterbOurNe, uk SaleSaGeNt, SeIdeNStICker

“This season Seidensticker took a step back andreassessed its position here at Moda alongsidesome of our counterparts and decided to reallyshow what we’re made of – hence the impressivenew stand build. We’re one of three big Germanshirt brands in the Uk market and, for s/s 15, we’vemade the decision to lower our prices. This is onlyfor the Uk retail market mind, but with this slightly

movement in price our aim is to attract new customers and help us stand outagainst the competition, while also giving our current stockists a bettermargin. It feels tremendously exciting at the moment at Seidensticker, withour collection really moving forward in terms of development and design.The environment that we’ve set up here at Moda reflects how we’re evolvingas a brand and, without tempting fate, it seems like retailers are feeling farmore optimistic than they were this time last year.”

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | ACCESSORIES | 36

RICHARD JAMES £65 WWW.RICHARDJAMES.CO.UK

GUIDE £10 020 748 1111

UNIVERSAL WORKS £6 [email protected]

CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230

MARWOOD £48 07973 429177

MINIMUM £30 07966 465456 SMART TURNOUT PRICE ON REQUEST 0845 129 2900

ECCO £105.60 0808 101 7442

MILLICAN £72 (BAG AND CAMERA CASE) 01768 778778

ClaSSICGIFt GuIde

the new season sees a nod towards the sartorial gent in terms of accessories, with a raft of stylishessential extras on offer – ideal for stocking fillers and festive gifts.

—Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | GENT | ACCESSORIES | 37

JAS M.B £135 020 7739 1008

SIMON CARTER £18.10 020 8683 4475

MERC £8 020 7495 8538

FENDON 1919 £159 01273 202095

PENFIELD £18 020 7720 5050

BEN SHERMAN £10 020 7812 5300

TRIWA £75 020 7377 9083

NOBIS £23 07885 066006

EDEN PARK PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387

ATELIER SCOTCH £32 020 3137 3901 BARBOUR £99.60 0800 009 988

DENISON BOSTON £20 01273 202095

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 39

British clothing label Moniyang not only has an unusual name, but also a less than ordinary design ethos. With abrand name that translates from the Sudanese term “men of men” – taken from an indigenous tribe where theculture requires a boy to go through a rigorous initiation process to carry him through to become a man – thislabel also has some real substance. Founded by university friends Dennis Immanuel and Junior Agyeman,Moniyang is stocked in independent boutiques, including Vivachoo and Secret D’or. There is also aninternational presence with stockists in the UAE, with the brand’s DNA comprising loud prints, leathers and a relaxed, versatile fit. “The next season will see a much bigger collection from Moniyang,” says Agyeman.“While offering our customers a greater choice, it will still retain the hallmarks of the label – which areoriginality and a rebellious streak in its design. Expect another exotic theme and more timeless yet versatilepieces which are still fashionable.”www.moniyang.co.uk

D E N I M & S T R E E T

a MaN aMONGStMeN

40 Product NewsRounding up the key stories this month

42 In-season stockPure jeanius

44 20 years of brotherly loveIndie Aphrodite celebrates its 20th anniversary

46 Chippewa back on the supply trailProfiling the classic biker boot label

48 SelectHighlighting the best from Moda’s contemporary zone

50 Sole-searchingNews, developments and trends from denim, street and

young fashion footwear

52 Jacket requiredTom Bottomley’s picks from the London trade show

54 Contemporary gift guidePoint of sale options including accessories, leather goods and tech extras

PERFECTO FROM THEINSIDE OUT

Schott NYC enters its 101th yearwith the relaunch of its iconicasymmetrical jacket, commonlyknown as the Perfecto. Takinginspiration from this, Schott hascreated a collection of premiumjackets, all named Perfecto Brand,for s/s 15.

Sourcing only the bestmaterials for its collectionsincluding Woolrich wool from theWoollen Mills of Scotland, andhand-waxed cowhide leather fromMartexin Original Wax, the rangeembodies Schott’s heritageperfectly.

—

www.Mwb-ONlINe.CO.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 40

radarSpotlighting style.

PrOduCt NewSInside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2014—HISTORY: Conceived earlier this year, Pawn Future Kings wasestablished by agent Chris Sykes after noticing a need for a youngstreetwear label in his offer. —SIGNATURE STYLE: Strong graphics, ethnic prints and inspiration drawnfrom music influences.

“I was looking for a streetwear brand to add to my agency portfolio andas my background is in this area, I thought of a name and produced myown,” says established agent Chris Sykes. “The contacts I’ve made inthe industry over the years have been really helpful in terms of advice,funding, sourcing and design – as well as great customers who arebuying into the brand.”

And it’s easy to see why buyers have been keen to stock theNorthern label, aside from their trusting relationship with Sykes. Withwholesale prices ranging from £10 for T-shirts, vests at £16, sweats at£22 and hats at £8, competitive pricing is the core of the brand.

Drawing its inspiration from classic streetwear labels from the 80sand 90s through to the current day, the brand is designed to target the18-30 year-old market and with the current trend for street-inspiredclothing going through the roof, there’ll be no problem securing fans. www.pawnfuturekings.com

PAWN FUTUREkINGS

MASTER OF ITS CRAFT

Founded in 2013, Master CraftUnion is a denim label that hasthe credentials of being hand-woven in a family-run millin Okayama, Japan. The sewingand washing is processed in themountains of Shimane, wherehot spring water and volcanicpumice are used to create the denim via traditional non chemical techniques.

A key style for the seasonis the MCU paper Denim, whichis constructed from exclusivefabric using traditionally milledJapanese paper within theweave of the denim. This aidscomfort, breathability and 3Dshape retention plus a shorterwear-in time than standardjeans. Stocked in HarveyNichols and Selfridges, this isone denim label to watch.

—

GRAPHICAL TRIO

British tailor timothyeverest, print designereley kishimoto andcreative agency newFuture Graphic havecollaborated to createclothing line tek –unveiled at the Best of Britannia earlier this month.

the first project forthe design trio is theshirt – a perfect startingpoint for printer andtailor to meet. handscreen-printed cottonshirting from the ekdesign studio in Brixtonis shaped and detailedby timothy everest inlondon’s Shoreditch.

the finishedproduct has been manufactured and packaged under art directionfrom new Future Graphic, with the trio making a concerted effortto take a locally produced and crafted shirt to a global market.

—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 41

on tRend

contemporary menswear label Luke 1977 has unveiled its first denimprogramme made on british soil.

the collection, luke made in the uk, comprises two styles based on thebestselling silhouette Freddie, which has a classic regular rise, five-pocketstyling and a gradual taper from knee to hem.

there is a super-stretch selvedge version, which has been exclusivelydeveloped by the brand and features the company colours (black/gold/red)inter woven into the selvedge. the second style, also the Freddie five-pocketmodel, uses luke’s classic non-stretch raw indigo 12oz fabric, which is thebrand’s British-produced entry point offer, with touches such as two copperpiece rivets, donut buttons and classic five-pocket styling.

“From my early days at london’s Central St martins, where i workedwith British fabrics and manufacturing for my degree collections, i havealways promised myself that i would try to use local talent and manufacturingwhere i could, but scale and price have always been an issue,” says lukeRoper, founder and creative director. “With the ever-closing production andprice gap with China, i am excited to finally be bringing elements of ourcollection home.”www.luke1977.com

brand to watch

luke made inthe uk

ESTABLISHED: 2001—HISTORY: Coming from“lads” label Luke 1977, s/s 15sees the launch of Luke’s first Made in the UK denim programme.—SIGNATURE STYLE:Focusing on fabric, thecollection encompasses the brand’s DNA of classic silhouettes withinnovative detailing.

1 2

3 4

5

1: FYT & CO £15.50 01628 777 320

2: MI-PAC£4.15 020 7739 7620

3: NATIVE YOUTH£5.75 020 7739 7620

4: SCOTCH & SODA£24 020 7253 6404

5: SUPREMEBEING£8 01223 873359

Seasonal extras: Prints

Unless stated otherwiseall prices are wholesale

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 42

Pure jeaniuSdistressed finishes, patchwork panelling and irregular silhouettes are keyto denim’s a/w 14 offer, while robust jean jackets offer a transitional pieceinto the colder months.—


EDWIN £88020 7278 4494

DUKE £12 0115 977 0009 WESC £40

01271 865600

FRANKLIN &MARSHALL £34020 7488 1380

VOI JEANS £2401772 841973

WEEKEND OFFENDER £2601332 342068

EVISU PRICE ON REQUEST020 7907 0977

BELLFIELD £90161 230 7312

WÅVEN £15 020 7739 7620

SUPREMEBEING £10 01223 873359

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | APHRODITE | PROFILE | 44

20 yearSof brotherLy Love

for menSwear

aphrodite is one of those menswearindependents that seems to have been aroundfor an eternity. Going from 500 sq ft and fivebrands – ted baker, john Smedley, armand basi,john tate & blanc bleu – in 1994 to over 40brands and 3,800 sq ft of retail space 20 yearslater, signifies consistent growth and adedicated following.

Customers are now more likely to bebrowsing and buying the likes of moncler, Stoneisland, Y3, Paul Smith, Folk, oliver Spencer, ourlegacy, Belstaff, hugo Boss, CP Company andVivienne Westwood. and, whereas once it wasvery much a local Sunderland customer thatbrothers duncan and andrew mckenzie targeted,it’s now much more far-reaching. “Certainly in 1994 when we opened, our customers were mainlyfrom Sunderland,” says duncan mckenzie. “now they come from Sunderland, newcastle,middlesbrough, durham, darlington andYorkshire.” and that’s not including much furtherafield with the success of the shop’s website,www.aphrodite1994.com, which was originallylaunched in 2007 but relaunched as a much slickeroperation in 2012.

“We came up with the name aphrodite afterour parents had been on holiday to Cyprus in

1993,” says mckenzie. “the town they stayed inwas called aphrodite, though obviously it’s alsothe name of the goddess of love.” they must haveliked the sound of it, however clearly it was theirlove of clothes that was the driving force. “We’rehappy to get to 20 years, for sure,” saysmckenzie. “But we’ve never really felt the threatof any economic downturn to be honest.”

that’s some statement, considering he wasjust 18 years old when he opened the shop in 1994,while his elder brother andrew was only 21. “ourparents bought the building, and we bought it offthem five years down the line when the businesswas more established,” says mckenzie, now 38.“our first full season’s forward-order buy for theshop was only £14,000, so it was very much on ashoestring budget, but with help from ourparents. the first two years were really tough – areal learning curve. in terms of brands, apart fromted Baker there was no real money makers there.”

it was in their third year that they got induffer of St George, and things started to take off.“duffer took off massively, especially with thehoodies it did at the time,” says mckenzie. “thewhole americana sportswear thing it did reallyhelped us establish our customer base. in 1998-1999, we got in Paul Smith Jeans and things went

up a tier again. Following that, in 2000, hugo Bosscame on board – and we were in our fullmomentum. once you’ve got brands like that onboard you can start taking some decent money,and obviously it’s attractive to other big namebrands in terms of wanting to be in your shop.”

Competition in Sunderland for menswear hasalso “come and gone,” according to mckenzie.“there was a bit of an influx around 10 years ago,with the likes of Van mildert and eleven cominginto town, but they all seemed to fall by thewayside.” So newcastle and the metro Centrepose the biggest competition these days.

in times of bigger boys moving into town –not just on menswear, but also across the retailboard, and with it ever growing rents, it must becomforting to own the building they are in. and,considering what it will be worth now, comparedto what their parents paid for it in 1994, alsopotentially very profitable should they ever decideto sell up.

“having the freehold is a huge advantage,”says mckenzie. “in 2002 we bought the buildingnext door, too.” Starting with 500 sq ft in 1994, in2000 that increased to 1,000 sq ft with theopening of the first floor, and with the purchase ofthe building next door that went firstly to 1,500 sq

duncan and andrew mckenzie opened aphrodite in Sunderland in 1994 with just five brands. aphrodite may be the goddess of love, but it’s been the brothers’ love of menswear that has seen the shop reach

its 20th anniversary this year – now with over 40 brands and further shop expansion currently under way. tom bottomley discovers how the business has grown.

—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | APHRODITE | PROFILE | 45

ft in 2003, then doubling to 3,000 sq ft by 2010.this year’s new refurbishment work will see thestore grow once again – to 3,800 sq ft. “therewere two separate units that we rented outdownstairs – to a barbers and a jewellers – for 11years, and that’s what we’re extending into,” saysmckenzie. eleven years of rent coming in mustalso have been quite a tidy addition to what theshop was taking.

now with 25 staff, it’s also a far cry from justthe two brothers that set up aphrodite. “there’sbeen a lot of progress,” says mckenzie. “twentyyears of stress, but we still love it. it’s a goodindustry to be involved in, when you think we wereat Pitti in Florence in June, then Paris, then milanin July, and we’re down in london a lot buying aswell. myself and my brother still do most of thebuying, and with me being 38 – soon to be 39 –and andrew still only being 41, we still considerourselves relatively young to do the buying,though now we obviously have all the experienceon our side as well.”

however, he does stress that they take some of the younger guys working for them withthem sometimes, to get a bit of a different input.“it gets them more involved in the business aswell,” says mckenzie.

in 2012, the brothers also bought anotherfreehold in the city, at the back of their store,which is now where all the web team is housed, all12 of them – eight full-time and four part-time. “Wedo all our Search engine optimisation (Seo) in-house, to get higher up on Google, and we’vegot people specifically dealing with blogs, whichhas become a big part of our business,” saysmckenzie. “if we can get some of the more limitedtrainers, say from new Balance, on hypebeast,then we can get a massive reaction from it. it’s howa lot of people find us online – searching for thelikes of Stone island or moncler or whatever it is.”

he says it’s important to sell online, but it’salso a great tool in terms of advertising the shop.“When we opened, we would have put a shop adnext to the sports pages in the Sunderland echo,but now it’s all done online – and we get customerscoming into the shop from all over the north eastas a direct result,” says mckenzie.

dedicated premises for the online businesshas made a massive difference to the websitetrade, so much so that they now need to upgradetheir server due to the level of traffic going to thewebsite. “it’s now 40 per cent of our business, andwe expect that to one day overtake the shop, butwe’ve been fortunate because the shop-floor

business just keeps going,” says duncan. “We’vedefinitely not witnessed any downturn in footfall,and with the increased space there’s an extra drawto the shop.

“We’ve found the more you invest in thebusiness, the better return you get,” he continues.“there are a few retailers who are a bit long in the tooth and who don’t spend money on their businesses – and they are usually the oneswho are suffering.”

to celebrate 20 years in business, thebrothers are throwing a big party, inviting their loyal customers, as well as other retailersthey’ve got to know and become friends with overthe years, and various brand representatives.“We’ve also got dual-branded productcollaborations with oliver Spencer, Paul Smith,Barbour and Grenson,” says mckenzie. “and we’rerunning competitions in-store and online,including with adidas originals via our website,whereby a pair of trainers can be won everymonth for 12 months.”

optimism from independent retailers canoften be quite hard to find, even when times aremeant to be good, but the mckenzie brothers’love of menswear means they are not in the handsof the gods, as aphrodite keeps on giving.

“We�came�up�with�the�nameAphrodite�after�our�parents�hadbeen�on�holiday�to�Cyprus�in�1993.The�town�they�stayed�in�wascalled�Aphrodite,�thoughobviously�it’s�also�the�name�of�the�goddess�of�love”

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 46

chiPPewa backon the SuPPLy traiL

heritage american outdoor and work boot brand chippewa is still manufacturing in the uS today, and now has a fresh impetus to supply other markets with its authentic products. tom bottomley gets the new plan of attack from the butler company owner david butler, who’s heading up the

new supply for the uk.—

anyone of a certain age will rememberchippewa boots from the last time they had areal presence in the uk market – in the late 80sand early 90s, when every cool kid on the blockhad a pair of their engineer boots on their feet.either that or a pair of chippewa’s famousLogger boots. they just looked so good with apair of jeans, and they seemed to last forever.

however, as the cycles of fashion change, sodid Chippewa slip happily back to its roots innorth-central uSa. a supplier to engineers,builders, lumberjacks, the uS army and not tomention an army of bikers, Chippewa certainlyhad its work cut out for its home market as it was.

But now it’s back in the uk, via david Butlerand his Butler Company agency – previouslyresponsible for bringing in the likes of otherfantastic heritage uS footwear brands such asFrye boots, Sperry, Pro-keds and Gh Bass with its Weejuns.

Butler says, “this is a reintroduction to theuk of another legendary american brand.Chippewa is such a great name, coming from anold native american tribe.

“We’re in the process of establishing 10 keyretailers to relaunch Chippewa in the uk for thisautumn,” he continues. “american Classics, oi

Polloi and the hip Store have taken it so far. andmr Porter is on board with a 7-inch engineer bootwe’ve done in collaboration with Jean Shop newYork. it’s a real gem.”

despite a good kick-off to uk business,Butler stresses that Chippewa has no urgency torebuild the business too quickly here. it’s aboutmeasured organic growth and long-termdevelopment. he says, “it’s about getting thename out there as one of those great oldforgotten about american brands. and one thatstill manufactures all of their boots in the uS, usingthe traditional methods and materials.”

Justin Brands acquired Chippewa Shoemanufacturing Co in 1984. Justin Brands is thelargest, and one of the oldest, continuously rundomestic boot manufacturers in the uS. it is alsothe recognised leader in Western and outdoorfootwear. But to this day, the Chippewa Shoe Cohas preserved a domestic manufacturing basewith its uS factories as well.

in 1999, John Justin stepped down from hisrole as chairman of the board of Justin industriesinc, and in 2000 the board of directors for Justinindustries approved the sale of the company toWarren Buffett and the Berkshire-hathaway Corp.Buffett is an american business magnate and

investor. he is the chairman, Ceo and largestshareholder of Berkshire hathaway, and rankedamong the world’s wealthiest people.

“Buffett has invested heavily into good old-fashioned american manufacturing, withChippewa now one of those great old brandsbenefitting,” says Butler. “he believes in theregeneration of american manufacturing, and healso happens to have the biggest shares in Coca-Cola, which helps things.”

For Butler, Chippewa stands for “outdoors”,and as such they are not part of a fashion trend.“We’re placing it with certain retailers whounderstand it,” he says. “We’re even supplyingSilvermans in the east end.” Silvermans is a shoprenowned for selling both new and used armysurplus gear and workwear. So the brand’s newdevelopment in the uk market is not just aboutfashion and trends, but also about the practicality,functionality and credibility of the boots – as wasoriginally intended when they were first created.“We see Silvermans as a strong anchor into the long-term market that we would like to develop,avoiding the cyclical nature of the fashionbusiness, too.”

Butler sees the engineer boot as one of themainstays of the Chippewa brand, which has

OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 47

apparently got one of the biggest collections ofengineer boots in the world. it’s believed it wasChippewa engineer boots that marlon Brandowore in 50s cult biker gang film the Wild one. Sothey really are iconic, as well as being abouttraditional american workwear.

“it certainly seems that Chippewa does ‘own’the engineer boot category, or biker boot as it ismore commonly known – in fashion circles atleast,” says Butler. “But we’re also supplyingmotorcycle store Surrey Speed Shop(surreyspeedshop.com) with them now – whichwas set up for serious bikers, so again it’s aboutauthenticity. it’s about rooting the product whereit is not just about a trend, but about supplying theright guys with the right boots – for all the rightreasons, and for the rest of their lives.”

the price points are high, with the 11-inchengineer boots retailing at £235 at the SurreySpeed Shop, but you’re getting a lot for yourmoney. they’re similar to a Red Wing price point.“oi Polloi and the hip Store are also buying intoour lace-to-toe Bridgeman boot with the whitewedge Vibram sole unit – which also retails at£235,” says Butler. “i believe Chippewa is the onlybrand to do a boot like that. it’s traditionally usedin the american construction industry, but it looks

great with a decent pair of levi’s and a white tee.”For Butler, the three signature pieces in the

Chippewa collection are the engineer boot, thelace-to-toe Bridgeman boot and the Service boot,which is a standard american workman’s boot andagain looks great with a pair of jeans. “those arethe three boots where we’re seeing real traction.our counterpart in Paris has placed those threeboots in some very good retailers, and it’s nowhappening across the rest of europe, too.”

Butler has his own initiative planned to getthe brand “out there” on twitter, Facebook andother social-media sites. he’s bought a whitetoyota hilux Surf, produced in 1990, which he isturning into what he calls the Chippewaggon. acatchy name, for sure. “it’s a bit of fun to createsome buzz for the label,” he says. “it will be quiteheavily branded and i’ll be doing some ‘trunkshows’ such as Goodwood.

“the interior has been decked out in pinewood,” Butler continues. “it’s a two-door, and ithink it’s the only one in the uk of its kind. it wasa Japanese production for the american market,and it just seems to fit with the brand. it will appealto the americana purist.” if Butler has his way, itcould also lead to a new customer trail in searchof Chippewa’s famous boots.

chiPPewa brand hiStory

In�the�same�decade�Ford�Motor�Company�wasfounded�and�the�Wright�brothers�took�their�firstflight,�the�Chippewa�Shoe�Manufacturing�Cowas�established�by�JB�Piotrowski�and�JohnAndrejski�in�1901.�It�was�named�after�ChippewaFalls�in�Wisconsin,�a�small�logging�town�locatedin�the�upper�Midwest�United�States.�Soon�afterthe�company’s�inception,�demand�for�the�ruggedboots�from�the�local�logging�communityincreased,�and�the�company�relocated�from�thefounders’�original�workshop�to�a�five-storyfacility�on�River�Street�in�downtown�ChippewaFalls�that�still�stands�today.

Timber�was�fuelling�the�industrial�revolutionat�the�turn�of�the�century.�A�real�demand�wasrealised�for�dependable�footwear�that�thelumberjacks�needed�to�survive�in�the�extremeoutdoor�work�environment of�the�forests�of�theupper�Midwest�and�Canada.�The�Chippewa�ShoeManufacturing�Co�introduced�the�first�lacedoutdoor�specific�boot�with�the�development�of�theChippewa�Logger�Boot,�making�Chippewa�oneof�oldest�outdoor�footwear�brands�in�the�world.�

Chippewa�is�also�credited�for�inventing�theEngineer�style�boot.�The�Original�ChippewaEngineer�boot�debuted�in�1937�as�a�semi-dressboot�that�engineers�preferred�for�field�work.�Theclassic�11-inch�Engineer�boot�with�logger�heelwas�introduced�in�1940.�Its�laceless�tall�shaftadded�maximum�protection�to�the�foot�and�shinwhile�on�the�road.�

During�Word�War�II,�the�US�Army’s�10thMountain�Division�depended�on�Chippewa�forthe�company’s�expertise�in�the�development�ofheavy-duty�cold-weather�footwear�and�skiboots.�Chippewa�would�later�use�the�sameresearch�and�development�to�launch�itslegendary�Arctic�Collection.�Chippewa’sExtreme�Cold�Weather�Minus-40�and�Arctic-50boots�were�deemed�the�“finest,�warmest,insulated�Goodyear®�welt�boots�ever�made.”

In�the�50s,�the�Chippewa�ShoeManufacturing�Company�was�the�first�tointroduce�US-made�mountaineering�boots�withthe�Italian-made�original�Vibram�soles.�Andthrough�Chippewa’s�continuous�research�anddevelopment�in�the�field,�the�company�receivedapproval�on�US�Patent�3545107�in�1970�for�thefirst�padded�boot�collar.�The�Kush-N-Kollar�wasdesigned�to�reduce�the�stress�of�the�achillestendon�while�walking�for�long�periods�of�time.

Justin�Brands,�a�Berkshire�Hathaway�Inccompany,�acquired�Chippewa�Shoe�Mfg�Co�in1984.�Justin�Brands�is�the�largest�and�one�of�theoldest�continuously�run�domestic�bootmanufacturers�in�the�US.�And�to�this�day�theChippewa�Shoe�Manufacturing�Co�has�remaineda�true�American�brand,�preserving�a�domesticmanufacturing�base,�making�high-quality,�tough,durable�and�hand-crafted-in-the-USA�product.

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | SELECT | REVIEW | 48

SElEctmoda’s Select area always throws up a few surprises, but this time round it was a more tightly edited

section focused on key brands – and key product. tom Bottomley discovered the best s/s 15 sellersfrom some of the brands that showed.

—

GLOVERALL

Great to see a brand of Gloverall’s qualityshowing in Moda’s Select area, and one of itss/s 15 highlights is a simple car coat based onone of the brand’s archive pieces. It’s got a bitof a short and clean 60s look to it. Easy to wearand lightweight, it’s also showerproof andmachine washable. Available in navy, stone and tan.

The coach jacket in a resonated cottonhas been a big hit for the season, and it’s easyto see why; it’s one of those jackets that’s justeasy to throw on for everyday use. Againsimple in design, with a gingham check lining,it’s also made in England. Another big appealfor retailers is a wholesale price of £55, and arecommended retail price of £149.

A summer-weight duffle coat is somethingyou’d clearly expect from Gloverall, and the brand has delivered a decent one in aBritish Brisbane Moss fabric, which iswaterproof but also machine washable. It’smade in London, too.

A Gloverall branded pique polo shirtmight not be something you’d expect to havewon the attention of buyers, especiallybecause they’re usually the reserve of otherbrands. But on the contrary, apparently. Adecent “brand carrier”, so to speak, availablein five colours, made in England, with single tipping on the collar and in a goodquality cotton.—

FARAH 1920

The Rampton jacket has done particularly wellfor the seasonal sell, coming in five colours,with yellow and burgundy particular highlights.It’s almost like a windbreaker and field jacketcrossover with concealed hood in the collar,and is considered a good transitional seasonpiece. Wholesaling at £38, and set to retail at£95, so just under that magic £100 mark.

The Haverford button-down all-over printcotton slub polo shirt has also ticked the rightboxes with buyers, available in three colours –with navy and burgundy being the bestsellers.

A simple waffle cotton crew-neck knit alsomakes the grade, with small leather Farah “F”embossed patch branding on the left chest.Burgundy again is the key colour.

The space-dye linen and cotton mix button-down long-sleeved shirt is another winner. It’s got a good heritage look to the fabric, a nice handle, and thewooden buttons give it class. The regular fitalso means it’s not a shirt for beanpoles. It’s alittle bit forgiving. —

BERTONI WHITE LABEL

The White Label is Bertoni’s more premiumline. The double-breasted wool-mix checkblazer has had a great reaction, very DavidNiven in his pomp, and certainly for the moresartorial customer. Wholesaling at £89 is alsoan appeal. A scissors logo appears on one ofthe sleeve buttons for a subtle bit of branding.

A subdued tartan check two-buttonjacket with patch pockets can be dressed upor worn more casually which is part of theappeal. It also comes with the option ofmatching narrow-leg trousers with turn-ups ifyou want a suit – though it’s sold as separates.

The “dress blue” two-button blazer (againwhich can be bought as a suit) is the brand’sstatement piece, but also one of thebestsellers. The jacket is fitted with darts in allthe right places, with a double-vent back. Andthe Liberty print of a matching shirt appearson the inside of the jacket. It’s half-lined, so alsonice and lightweight for summer.

The cotton Liberty print shirts haveapparently sold fantastically well, too, soclearly plenty more floral patterns will bearound for s/s 15. Wholesaling at £40, for £110retail, there is a good margin to be had.—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | SELECT | REVIEW | 49

WOLSEY

the 100 per cent linen indigo revere collarshort-sleeved bowling shirt has been picked upby quite a few buyers apparently, and has aclassy 50s look to it. the sleeves are doubleclothed at the hem to give some weight and avoid the rising crease effect you can getwith linen.

a long-sleeved overhead henley top inwhite is about as simple as it comes, but awardrobe staple, nonetheless. Wolsey, ofcourse, has a history of producing suchhenleys or “grandad” tops, and this one is in awearable linen and cotton mix herringbone.

the three-button washed cotton blazer innavy blue, with heavy stitching detail on theshoulders and sleeves, is another piece of note.unstructured and easy to team up with a teeor, indeed, the aforementioned henley.

the navy jacquard camo bomber jacket ismore of a premium gem in the collection, in anice Japanese fabric. the same camo fabricalso appears in the form of a long-sleeved andshort-sleeved shirt.—

RIDGEMONT

launched by the former owner of duffs, alexhall, along with former professional skaterStacy lowery, Ridgemont blends outdoor-styleshoes with skate looks and vulcanisedconstruction. the mid-top outback boot inwaterproof leather, with d-ring fasteningsystem as you’d find on a traditional walkingboot, is among the bestsellers in the uS.

the mesa tan chukka boot, in an oiledsuede, is another style that’s winning plaudits.it’s also available in brown, charcoal and black.the ortholite insole is supportive, shockabsorbent, retains its shape, and is moisture-wicking. it’s all about mixing performance with fashion.

For a more skate-orientated shoe, there’sthe Rover, which either comes in full-grainleather combined with waxed canvas, or anoiled suede with waxed canvas.

the Crest low in a dry waxed canvascompletes the current bestsellers. the waterapparently beads off the olive canvas. thereare alternative colourways as well as an oiledsuede version.—

JUSTIN REECE

new for Justin Reece is the introduction ofGoodyear welted footwear, in the form of a tanbrogue boot, which wholesales for £46 andretails at £140. it could quite easily fit into thatgap in the market below the high end, butabove the likes of Base london and FrankWright, while giving some competition to thelikes of h by hudson.

in the main collection, the dover broguefeatures in a full-page ad in Fhm Collectionsthis autumn, which should not only raise thebrand’s profile but also boost sales dramaticallyof that style – available in five colours, includingnavy, burgundy and green. Red laces (tonallaces are also provided) and a red line throughthe sole unit give a bit of brand identity.

the suede tasseled loafer, available innavy and black, is another one that’s beenpicked up on by the slightly more directionalbuyers. it’s a lightweight shoe, but looks moresturdy, again with the eye-catching red-linethrough the sole.

lastly the tan Chelsea boot (also availablein black) with the commando sole unit isanother style that’s been hitting some goodnumbers for Reece James, a brand that carriesstock on all its bestselling styles, with goodmargin for retailers always a key focus.—

MEYBA

Retro footwear label meyba was born in Barcelona and is ahousehold name around europe. With a focus on penetrating theuk market for spring/summer 2015, the brand has extended itscollection and drawn inspiration from “moving from the beach tothe city”. Buyers can expect to find meyba’s successful jogger(pictured) available in more colours and in a partly mesh version, aswell as the Warm up – a minimalistic shoe made from suede withan off-white sole. —

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | FOOTWEAR | 50

SoLe-SearchinG mwb highlights the news and developments from some of the key names inyoung, contemporary and directional footwear.—

DUCK AND COVER

the footwear range from British streetwear label duck and Cover takes ona simpler and cleaner aesthetic this coming season by using subtlebranding and a strong colour palette of black, white and graphite, withaccents of red, green and blue running throughout. With nine stylesavailable, the footwear range boasts four distinct silhouettes, comprising a low and mid-cut silhouette, using suede, canvas, ballistic nylon, denimand Pu.—

ANTHONY MILES

For spring/summer 2015 contemporary British footwear label anthonymiles introduces yet another iconic sole, with the addition of a newtranslucent contoured wedge with coloured flecks in the forepart and acolour slice at the heel. to further the appeal of the crafted sole, thebrand also offers full colour-blocked versions. the minimalist styling,meanwhile, is refreshed with the injection of new materials such asnubuck and a lighter colour palette.—

LUKE

due to the well-received response to luke’s eVa sole units in its footwearoffer, the new season sees the brand expand this option, as well as addingnew fabrications. key features include patterned digital and rubberised 3dgeometrics prints, technical performance sports mesh, innovative non-stitch panelling and fabrications including suede, patent and leather.Colour-wise, the collection includes shades of lime, pink, orange and blue.—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | FOOTWEAR | 51

PALLADIUM

this season boot brand Palladiumcombines inspiration from itsFrench heritage and military rootswith modern, urban influences toupdate its collection with blendedmaterials, slim silhouettes and newseasonal colours. linen and twilluppers bring a lightweight refreshto the line, without sacrificingclassic Palladium elements, such as the brand’s signature luggedoutsole and rubber toecap, whileinterchangeable laces and updated logo accents providefashionable details. —

CAT

iconic footwear label Cat unveils its latestcollaboration for the new season, this time withacclaimed artist, set designer and print-makerCamille Walala. off the back of her work withcompanies such as nintendo, Pantone andkoppaberg, Walala has created a set of printsexclusively for Cat to be used across its newspring/summer collection. For the brand’smenswear category this includes prints on the tongue of the Colorado Slouch boot, whichalso sees the rigidity of the classic Colorado cuff removed and replaced with a soft upper“slouch” design.—

BEDROOM ATHLETICS

Casual footwear and slipper brand Bedroomathletics is driving its presence in the uk marketfurther for s/s 15. a key category for the label isits harris tweed collection, which for themenswear range includes the Charles model –featuring a harris tweed upper, flannel checklining, leather logo attached to the cuff and anon-slip branded tPR sole. another key designis the edward, which is a moccasin style in harristweed, but with a tPR driving sole.—

NICHOLAS DEAKINS

nicholas deakins builds its signature footwearcollection around the retro trainer package fors/s 15. newness is found in the incorporation offull-grain nubucks and denim to give a vintagefeel, while technology has been used to createwoven and knitted sports shoes. another keysilhouette is the moccasin, which takesinspiration from a back catalogue of patterns in full-grain leather. in terms of colour, buyerscan expect hunter green, cobalt blue, charcoaland white. —

BUCKETFEET

Following BucketFeet’s successful launch intothe uk last spring, the artist-designed footwearbrand returns for the new season and has justfinished its first successful run with footweargiant Schuh. the label is also championing oneof the season’s most talked about casualfootwear essentials – the slip-on skate shoe.—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 52

A.FOUR

Fresh for s/s 15 is this eye-catching new labelfrom tokyo, boasting a four-piece collaboration(two jackets and two shirts) with designerkenneth mackenzie of 6876 fame, as well as acollaboration with legendary americansportswear brand Champion. interestingdesign details give the main collection an edge.a hooded gilet is a key piece, as it mixes“designer and street”, and the three-buttonjersey blazer is another fine example. a 50s-style terry towelling polo shirt addssomething else into the mix, and there’s yet

another collaboration, this time with Japanese vintage reproduction specialist neighborhood, onjeans. a.Four labs, a separate line, which features a fantastic rude boy all-over print shirt, croppedchinos and a harrington jacket, is also key.—

BRIXTOL

the Swedish brand with more than a Britishinfluence is going from strength to strengthdesign-wise, and owner Gustav kjellander ishappy that his take on British street-style iswinning an ever-growing customer base here inBlighty. So much so that 40 per cent of thebrand’s own online business is coming from theuk, a sure sign of good things to come. all thewaxed jackets are made in the uk, too, as is theknitwear. the most commercial piece in termsof volume sales is the hooded teflon-coatedhoolihan jacket, a play on hooligan, so it’s got abit of a terrace appeal, and comes in five colours. there’s also a technical field jacket with concealedhood, and some other shiny technical pieces that will ensure the wearer stands out from the crowd.the brand’s signature style is the parka, without a hood, and with more of an ma-1 type knitted collar. —

TIGER JAY

another Jacket Required debut, this collectionfrom the netherlands has been created inconjunction with the reproduction of a J-Classracing yacht, originally made before WWii. anold 30s drawing of one of the boats, which wasmeant to be built for the king of Sweden at thetime, was “acquired” by the mysterious ownerof this label. as he set in motion the building ofit, he also decided it needed a clothing line togo with it. a 50s-style pin-up print features –embroidered on a great zip-up hooded jacket,short-sleeved shirt, cotton shorts and also a

waterproof duffle bag, which also says “a girl in every port”. a traditional “rainbow striped” rubberfisherman’s jacket looks like it would definitely keep you dry on the deck and there are some prettycool high-top sneakers, though what they have to do with sailing is anyone’s guess.—

jacketrequired

an ever-growing show with a great industry buzz – despite the extremely warmweather giving London’s old truman brewery a bit of greenhouse effect this

time around. tom bottomley picks some winners.—

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 53

NOTCH LONDON

Three years in the making, with a designer whocounts Burberry and Tommy Hilfiger among hiscredentials, Notch London is aimed at a“slightly more mature crowd that appreciatespremium product”, according Jon Poll whoseAgent C is handling sales for the North – whilethe South is being covered by Index London.Heavyweight tees with pocket details sell for£45 retail, and there’s printed shirting, a greattwo-colour Oxford shirt, but it’s the jackets thatstand out. There’s a tasty little bomber jacketwith contrast sleeves and slanted zip-up chestpocket, a simple but good-looking multi-pocket two-button blazer, and a six-button peacoat style –again with a slanted zip-up chest pocket. Psyche and Urban Outfitters are apparently fans.—

PUBLISH

Enjoying its fourth season in the UK, thoughanother first showing at Jacket Required,Publish has been picked up by the likes of Size?Urban Outfitters and Wellgosh. This LAstreetwear label is best known on its home soilfor its sportswear pieces, particularly itsjogging bottoms – which literally hit the groundrunning due to excellent cut and detailing.When we say “streetwear”, this elevates it, andmakes it more grown-up and interesting. Thequill logo is also a nice touch. There are alsosome decent patterned shirting, an MA-1 style

green jacket, and tees and sweats featuring a print with London riot police. Read all about it.—

GOOD GUYS

Designed in Paris by vegan Marion Hanania,Good Guys was created due to her passion forshoes, as well as a vegetarian lifestyle. Havingworked as a footwear designer for brands suchas Isabel Marant, Hanania set out on her ownquest to make a difference by creatingfashionable, but vegan shoes – that “do good,not harm”, and that’s the label’s motto. Evenbetter, all materials are waterproof, non-toxic,breathable, durable and light, plus they can becleaned to look as good as new with soap andwater, even though some look like they aresuede – traditionally a nightmare to keep clean. There are men’s and women’s, with moccasin-styleboots and lace-up shoes, loafers and two-tone saddle shoes key. They don’t come cheap, with shoesretailing between £120 and £200, but they don’t half make you feel good about yourself.—

MARSHALL ARTIST

Perhaps perceived as an outerwear-focusedbrand, and therefore more inherently suited toautumn/winter, Marshall Artist has upped thestakes with this spring/summer 2015 line to bringa more balanced offering. Printed tees, sweats,polos, Oxford shirts and shorts all give the line awider appeal, though it is still the jackets, albeitin lightweight fabrics, that shine through. Thewindcheater, available in four colours includingburgundy and navy, which retails at £85, hasparticularly hit the mark with buyers. The camostory continues with venom, used for jackets and

shirts, and the “blister wash” Teflon-coated, multi-pocket nylon field jacket gives a nod to Italiansportswear. The price points are where Marshall Artist really wins, as you don’t half get a lot of bangfor your buck.—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | ACCESSORIES | 54

ASHLEY MARC HOVELLE £18 07425 848454

NIXON £160 0808 234 7003

GARCIA PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387

DUKE PRICE ON REQUEST 0115 977 0009

FYT £6 01628 777320

VOLCOM £29.54 020 7729 2744 SERGE DENIMES £17 [email protected]

WEEKEND OFFENDER £9.26 01332 342068

BUFF PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387

contemPoraryGift Guide

mwb’s comprehensive guide to the perfect christmas point-of-sale pick-ups across young denim,street and directional menswear.

—Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | ACCESSORIES | 55

MI-PAC £5.40 020 7739 7620

WESC £4.80 020 8959 3200

ELEMENT £23.40 0033 558730059

NATIVE YOUTH £5.75 020 7739 7620

LE COQ SPORTIF £20.50 020 7636 4664

BJORN BORG £9 020 7637 1395

HYPERGRAND £63.50 07802 252858

SUPERDRY £7.08 020 7440 5123

SUPREMEBEING £12 01223 873359

ELVINE £14 020 7723 3211 SCOTCH & SODA £12 020 7253 6404

URBANEARS PRICE ON REQUEST 0046 766359081

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 56

collEctIvEthe people, the places, the products.

Years ago, I was favoured and blessed enough to have my shirtcollection in Selfridges oxford Street. this was before they moved thedepartment upstairs and began a relentless pursuit of internationalluxury brands and positioned themselves ever and ever higher. theyasked me to come in and do a “meet the designer” event, along with anumber of other brands and suppliers throughout the store.

It was great fun. I sold lots of shirts – and cufflinks – and met manyinteresting and enthusiastic customers. The whole evening was amiablylubricated by a generous drinks sponsor.

Just before the evening ended, and I was debating whether I couldget away with another glass of freebie booze, when two young men insports gear came up to my stand and began carefully going through therange. It became clear that they were ushers at a wedding and neededtwo matching shirts.

As any salesperson knows, common ground is the best way to starta conversation, and conversations lead to sales. I broke the ice by askingthem what sport they played. “Ice hockey”, came the reply, and wechatted along those lines for a while. Then I mentioned that I play croquet,and was hoping to be selected to play for England up. We then spent thenext half an hour discussing our respective sports.

Finally, they bought their shirts and cufflinks, and turned to go. Asthey did, one paused and asked me, “If you could be the best in the worldat croquet, or the best in the world at shirts, which would it be?”

It was an excellent and profoundly thought-provoking questionwhich took me a while to answer.

I was reminded of that question again last month as I was Captainof Dulwich Croquet Club, and my team was playing the final of theNational Inter Club Championship. September also saw the first full dayof trading at my new store in Brighton. Needless to say, I was checkingmy phone at every available opportunity. Fortunately, we won thechampionship and Brighton had an excellent first Saturday.

But the fact that I was playing a final in Woking, rather thanwelcoming customers to my new store, probably tells you what my answerwas to that sharp minded young man in Selfridges.

Is that bad? I don’t think so. We all work so hard, and unless we havepassions and interests outside menswear, we will become very dull, andlose sight of the old adage that we’re meant to work to live, and not theother way round.

And I didn’t get picked for England. In case you were wondering.Simon carter is the cEo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

LITTLE BLACK BOOKaSIadoG

maNhattaN, NEw YoRk

taking on the hotdog is no mean feat but asiadog did just that, giving thismighty american classic an asian twist. For street food with a difference,head to asiadog. Food just got fusion-y.

A wide range of customers, including downtown creative types and self-proclaimed foodies, flock to the store to try this relatively new food concept.Bestsellers include one of the spiciest choices on the menu The Vinh, a takeon the Vietnamese-style sandwich Banh mi, and The Mash, a toppingconsisting of sweet and spicy ketchup, jalapeño mustard and crushed potato chips.

Since launching in 2008 as a weekly pop-up at a bar, owners Mel andSteve have grown the business in size and following and have appeared atBrooklyn Flea, Central Park Summerstage and opened their first bricks-and-mortar store.

—

PlaN B

daNIEl cutlERUK and Irelanddistributor forBoomerang ofSweden

when my father sold the uk Gant business back toSweden in 2000, I didn’t know whether to continueas marketing director for a successful, albeitcorporate brand, or take the opportunity to startmy own business. I chose the latter. But, had my lifetaken a different course, I’d probably have landed upin Port Douglas in North Queensland, Australia, as adiving guide/instructor.

When I first met my wife, Allye, she was workingfor a diving firm, and the sport very quickly becameour shared passion. Whether it was a weekend downat Portland Bill, a week in Sardinia or three weeks onthe Barrier Reef, it was the greatest of hobbies. Couldwe have made a decent living out of it? Probably not,but nice to dream.

—

SIMON SAYS

cloSEtcoNFIdENtIal

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 57

I currently cannot live without my Edwin jeans. I am amassive fan of the washes and fit of the Japanese denimbrand. They get better and better the more you wear them.I now have three pairs of them, and can’t see me changingbrands anytime soon. Once you find your denim brand andfit you stick with it.—I can’t wait for winter time to come around again so I canpull my Peregrine Summit jacket out of the wardrobe. Ifirst came across those guys at Jacket Required a few yearsago, and have become a huge follower of the brand. Their

whole collection is made in England and, for me, they are one of the best kept secretsin the industry. My jacket is made from waxed British Millerain and it is ageingsuperbly. Everywhere I go people ask me where I got it. —Everybody who knows me will say I am never out of a hoody. I probably have onefor every day of the month, and the missus hates washing them! My obsession hasgot so bad I now have to sneak them into the house so she doesn’t see them. —obviously for my feet it has to be J Shoes. Monday to Friday I am usually sportingour classic “Charlie” brogue or one of our casual chukka boots, not just because Iwork for the brand, but because they are so comfy as well as looking the part. Whenthe weekend arrives it’s all about the trainers. I am a sneaker freak and, if it’s not apair of Nike Air Max (like everyone else at the minute), then it’s my current favourite –Adidas Stan Smith’s - that are coming out to play. Recently I came across ITEM m6,a new German based sock company, and I am now officially hooked. And, due to thenature of my job, I’m constantly travelling so a good bag is essential. I’m a big fan ofForbes and Lewis at the moment.

—

tom tuRtoNuk SalES maNaGER, J ShoES

TOP TWEETS

SOCIETY

HI Hostels �@Hostelling "Do you guys have pizza in the UK?" wasalso one asked in the US. Could've brokenthe news to them but found it too funny toanswer #ttot

ASOS Menswear @ASOSMenswear But can it stop time a la Bernard's Watch?#AppleWatch

Patrick Grant �@paddygrant Educating Essex. Why has it taken me solong?

London Fashion Week@LondonFashionWk Celebrate #BritishFashion & be a part ofthe 2014 British Fashion Awards onDecember 1st. Buy tickets online:http://bit.ly/16pVuMa #BFA

Brook Taverner �@brooktaverner This time of year feels a little bit like anepisode of Game of Thrones, but sadly"Winter is coming" time for a new wardrobe

The Modern Gentleman @TheMitchelli Wearing braces and a waistcoat seemedlike the right thing to do this morning....

The Famous 1886 �@thefamous1886 best #factoftheday today: Samuel L Jacksonhas a clause in all his movie contracts that allows him to play golf twice a weekduring filming.

BlackBook Magazine �@BlackBook "Chance encounters are what keep usgoing." – Haruki Murakami

thE PaRtIES aNd EvENtS FRom IN aNd aRouNd thE mENSwEaR INduStRY.

HRH THE PRINCESS ROYAL VISITED PRIVATE WHITE V.CLAST MONTH (17 SEPTEMBER) TO TOUR ITSMANCHESTER-BASED FACTORY AND OFFICIALLY OPENTHE ON-PREMISES NEW STORE TO THE PUBLIC.

ACTOR WILL MELLOR AT THE ANNUAL LUKE ROPER GOLFDAY, DESIGNED TO RAISE MONEY FOR THE FASHION &TEXTILES CHILDREN’S TRUST, WHICH SAW CELEBRITIESAND SOME OF MENSWEAR’S FINEST INCLUDING VANMILDERT, DIFFUSION AND ACCENT COME TOGETHER FORA DAY OF GOLF WITH ENTERTAINMENT PROVIDED BYCOMEDIAN RUSSELL KANE.

GUESTS ENJOYED CANAPÉS AND DRINKS AT THE RECENT30TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY FOR LEEDS INDEPENDENTACCENT, WITH A DJ SET FROM BEZ (THE HAPPY MONDAYS)AND A FASHION SHOW HIGHLIGHTING THE KEY A/W 14TRENDS ON OFFER ACROSS BOTH THE MEN’S ANDWOMENWEAR DEPARTMENTS.

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | 59

the bottomLey Linemwb deputy editor tom bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

countinG the coSt ofcounterfeitinG

the big brands have been used to their productsbeing counterfeited for decades. But with the riseof the internet, the rise of counterfeit goods hasgone through the roof. though it’s nigh onimpossible to stop, there are big efforts going onto stem the flow. Some brands, eager to protecttheir brand values and reputation for quality, are doing more than others in the fight againstbad copies. kevin Spreekmeester, senior vicepresident of marketing for Canada Goose, says,“it’s a huge issue – and a growing one. We activelywork with the Canadian anti-Fraud centre andhave international monitoring partners that sweepthe internet twice a day for us. they try to takedown counterfeit auctions, counterfeit websitesand rogue websites around the world.”

the counterfeit goods mostly come fromasia, and sales are predominantly happeningonline. “it’s so easy for counterfeiters to set up anonline shop that looks like Canada Goose, andtrick consumers into placing an order that eithernever gets delivered or is a badly constructedimitation,” says Spreekmeester. What is alarmingis the quality of the counterfeits that so manypeople are being fooled into buying. there is a lotof technology and innovation that goes into themaking of a Canada Goose jacket and, while a realparka will be filled with the best down feathersknown to man, and trimmed with coyote fur –which provides the ultimate protection tofrostbite of the face – counterfeit jackets havebeen found to be trimmed with fur from dogs orraccoons. as for the insulation, counterfeiters willfill the jackets with any bird’s feathers they canfind, bird poo included at no extra price. nice.

there’s no standard pricing on counterfeitseither. Four or five years ago, Spreekmeester saysthey saw counterfeit prices advertised at less thanhalf of one of their coats (currently £750 for anexpedition parka). But they’re getting smarter, asthey know that can be a tip-off to consumers.“We’re now seeing them get closer to prices thatare offered by our authorised retailers.”

in 2013, Chinese customs officials confiscatedover 70,000 counterfeit diesel products exiting thecountry. in 2014, diesel initiated an online brandprotection programme that has proved to be verysuccessful. more than 120 infringing sites havebeen taken down, with more than 1,000 sellersblocked and around 400,000 items removed,though educating consumers is surely the most

powerful tool in the fight against fraudulentgoods. as Spreekmeester says, “if the price seemstoo good to be true, it probably is.”

Good for SomethinG

every now and then there’s a label or product thatcomes out of nowhere and goes “boom.” Jon Pollfrom agent C in manchester appears to be havingthat sales moment with a brand called Good Fornothing. “it’s gone nuts since June,” says Poll.“and i mean nuts! the phone has not stoppedringing for re-orders. We’ve sold around 8,000units of one tee – the kryptic – in the last coupleof months alone.” and now with a collaboration,launched with Foot asylum and asos, with malemodel of the moment Stephen James – the faceof asos, diesel eyewear and Ck one – things aregoing to get even bigger. “i think one of thebiggest factors has been the general affection forthe brand name Good For nothing, and the label’sdistinctive butterfly logo, which has been spottedon all the cool kids in ibiza this summer,” says Poll.one of the two manchester lads behind it wantedto be a footballer, but was effectively told he was“good for nothing”, hence the name. now, itseems, he can’t stop scoring.

theSe bootS weren’t madefor waLkinG

the opening of the first Pro-direct shop onCarnaby’s Foubert’s Place (next to the brand newadidas originals flagship) recently sent footballlovers into a frenzy. it’s boot heaven, from old-school classics such as the adidas World Cup, tomodern knitted neon numbers including the nikemercurial Superfly – as worn by Ronaldo. lit-updisplay cases even have signed boots from someof the world’s greatest players, old and new – Peléand messi are prime examples. manchester City’sVincent kompany even popped in to check outthe selection and see how you can select yourperfect boots on giant in-store touch screens. itreally has completely visualised the original onlineexperience (www.prodirectsoccer.com), and is agreat addition to the one-off concept stores thatmake Carnaby a unique shopping destination. But,with so many lads and dads into their clobber andfooty, it’s always struck me as a good idea formenswear independents to stock a small selectionof the best boots in town too. adidas Gazelles forgoing to the game on a Saturday, and Puma king’sfor Sunday morning’s attempted Pelé overheadkick, why not?

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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GOOD FOR NOTHING’S LATEST COLLECTION

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CANADA GOOSE CONTINUES THEFIGHT AGAINST COUNTERFEITS

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although now one of the uk’s brightest emerging talents in illustration, fashion andstyling, john jarrett wasn’t always the sartorial figure he is today. victoria jacksonspeaks to jarrett about his path into fashion,how his style has evolved, and finallyappreciating those hand-me-downs, whichhave, until now, remained locked away.—

www.mwb-onLine.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 | 62

LaSt orderS with...john jarrett

D/O/B:�18/05/1989Place�of�birth:�LondonNow�lives:�LondonInstagram:�_johnjarrettWebsite:�www.individualism.co.uk

can you give an insight into your average day?it starts off with replying to a barrage of emails –usually concerning ongoing projects and potentialprojects – and the occasional browse of style sites.i never really know exactly what i’ll be challengedwith until the night before, neither do i realise howmuch time i actually really have. Some days myjobs consist of styling for shoots and films, whileother days i dedicate to sketching concepts andstoryboarding for films and personal projects.

was fashion something you were interested infrom a young age? i was never really into fashion when i was young. iwanted to be a character designer for games andmovies, and studied animation and film at uni. iwas super timid and wasn’t very popular, you see.it wasn’t until college and uni that i really wantedto change my image. Style was a way for me to beable to communicate with people without actuallyhaving to approach anyone. i kind of just fell intothe industry, and realised that i could use my skillsand knowledge for fashion instead of animation.and so i did.

out of every creative area you’re involved with,which would you was your first passion?my first passion, and my favourite thing to do, issketching. i love coming up with ideas, concepts anddesigns through drawing. Give me a pencil, paperand my itunes playlist and i’ll be happy for days.

how would you describe your style? how has itevolved over the years? Since high school i’ve tried lots of styles. ichanged through experiences good and bad,mostly bad. You have to go through all styles tofind your own. i don’t have a particular look; i mixtogether pieces according to how i feel that day.

what was the last piece of clothing you bought?a corduroy western-style denim jacket from Gapin cream. i love the colour and the fit is perfect.

what’s the most treasured piece of clothing inyour wardrobe?an old Ben Sherman leather jacket – a mod-stylejacket that my dad gave me when i was a kid.

quick-fire round...—Favourite book: The Art of Final Fantasy by Toshitaka Amano.—Best piece of advice: Practice makes perfect.—Biggest vice? Eating out too much.—What couldn’t you live without? Music… good music.—Early bird or night owl? Night owl.—

who inspires you style-wise?i’m easily inspired, but the guys who have reallyopened my eyes to the possibilities of men’s stylehave to be hiroki nakamura, Pharrell Williams,nigo, nick Wooster, aitor throup, harris elliott,ouigi theodore and kpop-scene.

what about in terms of work?i’m inspired by people who are not stuck doingone particular thing, and excel in other intereststhey may have. entrepreneurs. it just shows thatthere is so much potential in all of us to do whatwe love, and it all comes down to how much time,effort and passion you put into it.

you recently collaborated with footwear labelohw? how did that come about?i did a few illustration projects at the beginning ofthe year, one of which was a collaborative projectwith ohw? and individualism, where i illustratedfive of our favourite ohw? styles. thankfully, fromthat, they called me to work on this season’s adcampaign, and that’s where we’re at now.

as this is our footwear issue, give us your topthree footwear labels.oliver Sweeney for the classics with a twist, ohw?for its simplistic design, and Visvim for its modern-bohemian image.

Garments that won’t hang about.The steamer that will.

For more informationTel: 020 8417 0660 www.propress.co.uk

MWB Magazine October issue

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