Mo Flo
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me / Lifestyle / Travel
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27 2015 at 12:15 AM Updated Mar 27 2015 at 12:15 AM
break with the past
nding the contemporary in Firenze – be it food, hotels or art – isn't
ways easy; tradition and history still weigh heavily on the eye and
omach.
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ORENCE - AFR - L&L - Aida's colossal head by Dante Ferretti Opera di Firenze (Florence Opera House) -
HOTO: Pietro Paolini/Terra Project FLORENCE - AFR - L&L - Aida's colossal head by Dante Ferretti Opera di
enze (Florence Opera House) - PHOTO: Pietro Paolini/Terra Project Pietro Paolini
Robert Bevan
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autifully freighted with art history though Florence is, a little light relief from
ting your Ghibertis from your Ghirlandaios is sometimes needed – if only to escape
marauding coach parties.
e locals don't want to live permanently in the 15th century either so, honestly, it's
to take your Renaissance-focusing blinkers off now and then without feeling
lty. However, (fashion aside) !nding the contemporary in Firenze – be it food,
tels or art – isn't always easy; tradition and history still weigh heavily on the eye and
mach.
pular outrage greeted the arrival of the New Opera Theatre in 2011. Its sharp,
minated angles by Italian architects ABDR are part of a developing cultural
ecinct – the Parco della Musica. It is the most conspicuously modern structure in
inner city and hated for it.
e city prefers to keep its jauntier modern looks hidden under a sweeping cloak of
eling render or concealed behind old walls of rusticated stone. The Palazzo Strozzi
case in point; begun in 1489 its magni!cently stern exterior belies an interior
en over to culture. When the last aristos sold up in the 1940s the proceeds were justough to buy a new Fiat Topolino. Eventually ownership was transferred to the state
d it now houses contemporary art and fashion shows, antique fairs and a just-
nched arts programme for its soaring courtyard.
RCHAEOLOGICAL PAST
ke also the Museo del Novecento – the museum of 20th century art – that opened
t summer in an old cloistered hospital across the piazza from the sublime Santa
ria Novella (the church not the station of the same name – although the latter is a
dernist architectural gem). The Museo, originally conceived in a bid to stop
rence "coasting along on its archaeological past", contains some 300 works
luding many donated to the city by international artists after the catastrophic, art-
stroying "oods of 1966 as well as other works of Futurism and Arte Povera (the last
me Italy had an art movement worthy of a name) that have been pushed from pillar
palazzo in search of a home over the decades. Compared to the four-centuries-old
!zi, it inevitably feels a little raw and low in highlights, despite a lovely smattering
Morandis and Baccis but then, unlike at the Uf !zi, you don't risk a ! ve-hour high
son wait to see them.
herwise, the city's most recent investments in museums have been the private
airs of Florentine fashion brands; the 1995 Ferragamo Museum in the Palazzo Spini
roni and, from a few seasons ago, the Gucci Museum right on the Piazza della
noria, north east of David's bum. Inside yet another ancient building, the Gucci
useo is something of a hard sell with items from the back catalogue on display in
ek, minimalist cases, a stylish café and a busy gift shop with snaking queues of
panese fashion students. But there is a section devoted to displaying the most
ntemporary of conceptual art.
oll north from here beyond the Duomo and fashion takes a dive in the rundown
eets around the 19 century glass and cast-iron Mercato Centrale. Outside, lines of
ed stallholders "og the same leather wallets and handbags, some with signs
ignantly insisting that the items are Italian rather than Chinese made.
th
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t the central market itself is worth a visit. It's not the most authentic of food
rkets given the city's tourism pressures but there are still huge sacks of dried
rcini and trays of tripe on sale. More novel is a tasty food court that's just opened on
mezzanine above the stalls and below the beautiful glass and and iron roof from
ich hang giant beehive-like lamps. The stalls "anking this raised court specialise in
al and artisanal produce such as breads, cheeses, pasta, polpetta and, a personal
e; the counter run by the Savini family who have been snuf "ing out truf "es since
1920s and serve them here as a quick snack on pasta or eggs. Take a ticket and
emble your meal, eating either at your chosen stall or in a central café-bar area.
low diners are as likely to be locals as tourists.
OOKING SCHOOL
ere is also a steel and glass cooking school here but a more stylish option for hands-
cuisine is across town near Porta Romana. Desinare a Florentine phrase, denotes
nviviality around the family table and the Desinare cooking school is tucked above a
etty courtyard at the back of Riccardo Barthel, one of the most intriguing kitchen
d bathroom shops in the world. It can supply you everything with a match for a
tage brass tap to top-of-the-range modernist cookware. Workshops around the
urtyard are busily restoring old furniture, picture frames and ceramics while you
rn to make !lled pastas or roll sushi in a kitchen equipped for everything from slow
vacuum cooking.
is is also one way of avoiding the too common Firenze eating environment that can
so dated that it wouldn't surprise to !nd a fossilised contessa face down in her
paccio. Another is to dine at Zeb in the gently hip San Niccolo area of the Oltrarno.
ormer grocery store, it is now a famed lunch spot with white walls, clean lines and
uisine that tweaks the nipples of tradition and that's served at counters rather than
les. The name derives from Zuppe e Bolliti (soups and boiled meat) and that's
ant as encouragement rather than to be off-putting.
re theatrical than deliciously earthy Zeb is another newcomer Caffe Florian, the
enze branch of the Venetian institution that's being promoted as "where !ne dining
ets contemporary art". Here, a sequence of rooms including one salon by artist
on Demetz lined in carbonised panelling like a burnt gondola cabin (in the Maarten
as manner) aim at a young/arty crowd. As is its menu that features dishes such as
nk!sh tagliatelle in a poison green (if tasty) broth. It's fun but a bit try hard.ually young at heart in a more scruf !ly boisterous, student-y way, is Caffè Letterario
Piazza delle Murate. The focus of the Commune of Firenze's prison turned arts
ntre, Le Murate. Summer sees outdoor !lms, concerts and DJs.
e exception to Florence's lethargy in the face of the contemporary is its hotels. As a
nd tour must-see for over 300 years the city does good hotels. The Four Seasons if
ulous for dowager duchesses (or when just in that kind of mood) but those looking
something fresher also have plenty of choice, from the self-conscious glamour of
Lungarno to the pioneering design gymnastics of UNA Hotel Vittoria. A happy dium if you don't want design shouting in your face is the Rocco Forte-owned
tel Savoy which is !nished in the group's trade mark svelte accented neutrals. The
voy's dining room bar and its terrace onto the Piazza della Repubblica are being
urbished as a "retro-chic Florentine bistro … contemporary yet vintage." What that
ans will be unveiled at the end of March. There are also rentable boutique
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artments such as the two Floroom venues where ancient timbers are teamed with
p furnishings. (Floroom2 on via del Sole is far more polished than Floroom1
hough the latter has the better location).
r truly stunning hospitality architecture, however, you must head south out of town
he Antinori family winery averting your eyes from the dismal Florentine suburbs
ng the way. There's not a raf !a-clad Chianti bottle in sight at the restaurant,
useum and cellar door complex built in a luxurious blend of dark timber, terracotta
d rusted steel by architects Archea Associate. It is among the most sophisticated
amples of contemporary design in Tuscany and a place to cast off the centuries. Just
a while.
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