KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

16
A special supplement of Gemini Newspapers. Publishers of The Kings Mountain Herald, The Banner News, and The Cherryville Eagle April 2013

description

Lawn & Garden Tab 2013, Kings Mountain Herald

Transcript of KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

Page 1: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

A special supplement of Gemini Newspapers.Publishers of The Kings Mountain Herald, TheBanner News, and The Cherryville Eagle

April2013

Page 2: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

2 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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By Alan Hodge

Spring is here and many folks’thoughts are turning back to how theyused to perk up mind, body, and spiritduring that time with tonics, elixirs, andeats which were made from wild plants.

The number of wild plants that localpeople have made use of over the years isimpressive. So is their knowledge of justwhat plant produces a particular effect.This knowledge is not to be taken lightly.The number-one rule of thumb aboutusing springtime wild plants for perkingyourself up is knowing exactly what youare putting in your mouth and what its ef-fects are. That said, let’s take a look atsome of the plants and their uses thatlocal folks used to kick up their heels inspringtime.

One of the most popular sources forspring tonics and tea is the sassafras tree.Also known as root beer tree, saloop, andague tree, sassafras is often found grow-ing along the edges of roads and oldfields.Both the bark and twigs of sassafras canbe used for medicine or tonics. When itwasdiscovered by early settlers, it was alsoone of the first things they sent back toEngland where it was said to cure “stink-ing breath, dropsy, feeble stomach, agues,and sore eyes.”

Among mountain folks, the sayinggoes that if you drink sassafras tea inMarch, you won’t have to visit a doctorall year.

Dorus Woodward of Mount Holly re-called that his father used to dig sassafrasand sorrel roots and make tea that he gaveto local Dr. Taylor’s patients.

“It was back in the horse and buggydays,” Woodward said. “Some folks usedto take sassafras twigs and use them todip snuff with too.”

Wild spring onions and their relativesare an important source of vitamin C to

country and hill people. Uses that can bemade of these plants include sauces, pick-led onions, fried onions, and salad gar-nishes. One wild onion relative, the ramp,is so well known that each spring sees afestival held in its honor in the North Car-olina mountains.

Ruby Buchanon of Stanley recalled hermom’s onion cough medicine.

“She would cut up onions and putsugar on them, then we would eat theonions ” Buchanon said. “She also usedspring pine tops and would boil them withsugar for cough syrup.”

Another popular country wild plantthat folks have turned to for nourishmentfor many generations is poke sallet. Madefamous by the song “Poke Sallet Annie”by pop singer Tony Joe White, the plant isalso called cancer jalap, gorget, and pi-geonberry.

The main thing to remember aboutpoke sallet is that the roots and berries aresaid to be poisonous. The leaves are bestwhen eaten young and tender. Before din-ing on the leaves, make sure you boilthem for a minute in two changes ofwater, then sauté gently in a little bit ofoil.

Ilene Potter of Belmont recollected hermother’s liking for poke sallet.

“Mom used to cook it all the time,” shesaid. “I didn’t like it but she did. You haveto be careful what you picked becausesome was poison.”

A staple of spring wild plant use is thedandelion. From its bright yellow flowerto the tender green leaves, the bloomingof the dandelion signals not only the com-ing of spring, but also the availability of avital source of vitamins. One of the mostlegendary uses of the dandelion amongcountry folk is wine making. Incrediblyeasy to make by simply putting sugar and

water in a crock with the flowers and let-ting it work, dandelion wine has broughtmany a smile to an old timer’s face.

As for the dandelion greens, they are agreat source of iron and vitamin C.Among the many ways they can be pre-pared is mixed raw in salads or fried witheggs and bacon.

For a bit of springtime sweetness, dowhat the country kids do and look for apatch of wild strawberries. Rich in vita-min C and iron, wild strawberries have asharper taste and are smaller than theircommercial cousins.Besides tangy pie and jam, other uses forwild strawberries are tea from the leavesand strawberry “leather.” This unusualitem is made by mashing the strawberries,rolling out the pulp and letting it dry.Its bright blue flowers a familiar spring-time sight along country roadways, ruralfolks have used chicory since colonialtimes for everything from salad to a wayto give coffee a real jolt. Packed full ofcalcium, as well as vitamins A and C,chicory is naturalized in our area fromEurope.

Chicory has even played an important

role in Southern history. During the WarBetween the States, coffee supplies in theSouth dropped to just about nothing. In anattempt to come up with a substitute orsome means to stretch the preciousgrounds, many folks dried chicory roots,chopped them up, and mixed them withwhat little java they had. Today, there’seven a brand of coffee that still haschicory as part of its blend.

One of the best sources for more infor-mation on how country people and otherfolks use spring wild plants is Vol. II ofthe “Foxfire” series edited by Eliot Wig-ginton. Another is “Wildflowers of NorthCarolina” by William Justice and C.Ritchie Bell.

Spring tonics, elixirs and eats All from wild plants!

Photo by Alan Hodge

Dorus Woodward and IleneBuchanon both recalled days when wildplants provided healthy alternatives to“store bought” medicines and foods.

Page 3: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 3

126 Bessie Drive • Kings Mountain, NC 28086

Phone: 704-259-6100 • Fax: 704-739-3713

Toll Free Phone: 800-441-9474

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Tim MillerBridges Hardware

In spite of the cool temperatures we’ve had sofar this spring, better conditions are coming for be-ginning that painting project you’ve planned. Be-fore beginning there are a few things to considerthat, when taken into account, will give you the jobyou’re hoping for.

Paint film failures can often be traced back to surfacepreparation. Always make sure that the surface, whetherinterior or exterior, is dry and free of surface contaminants:dirt, oil, grease, wax, sanding residue, soap film to name a few. On previously paintedinterior walls a good general purpose cleaner may be made using tri-sodium phosphate.Be sure and rinse well and allow the surface to completely dry before painting. In ourarea, mildew on exterior surfaces poses a significant problem. Rather than simplybleaching out this fungus, consider using a preventive wash to inhibit re-formation.

Since temperatures have been cooler than normal, let’s address weather conditions.Of course this primarily applies to exterior painting but can affect even interior paintjobs. For best results, paint when outside temperature, surface temperature, and painttemperature is 70 degrees and humidity is 50%. Rarely will we have all four perfect, butthese are the optimum conditions.

The applicator used for any paint job is the understated hero or villain. Think of itthis way- selecting a quality paint is like dressing up for the prom. Would you ride a bi-cycle to the dance after donning your tux or formal dress? Neither should you choosethe low end paint brush or roller and expect the best performance. Yes, the bike will getyou to the prom and the least expensive applicators will put paint on the wall. Instead,consider purchasing brushes and roller covers of better or best construction and balance,compare the painting experience and results, and then care for the tools as prescribed byyour paint manufacturer and the local painting experts so that they will be in top shapefor your next project.

Couple these factors with quality paint selection and you’ll enjoy the finished prod-uct for years.

Need to paint? Now’s the time!

Jason RhodesRhodesdale Farm

Many gardeners do not attempt growingasparagus plants since it is not a fast pro-ducer.

If you have avoided cultivating this suc-culent plant in the past, I want to encourageyou to give it a try this season with helpfultips found below!

Building an Asparagus BedBuilding an asparagus bed is a simple

project that will yield delicious results formany years with minimal care.• All you need are a few simple gardeningtools, and a few hours of time to prepare anasparagus bed.• Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.• Well-drained soil is vital to the health ofyour asparagus plants.• If needed, build a raised bed to ensuregood drainage.• An asparagus bed for two asparagusplants should be approximately 4-5 feet

wide, and 5 feet long. Add 1.5 feet to thebed for each additional asparagus plant ifdesired.• Dig 8 inches deep with a rototiller or byhand.• Be sure the areas is weed free, as growingweeds will be an ongoing problem in yourasparagus bed.• Add and mix compost into the soil. Idealsoil ph is 7.0. Amend soil as needed.How to Grow Asparagus at Home• Plant crowns immediately after bringingthem home. If planting is delayed, wrap theroots in damp sphagnum moss.• Asparagus yields ½ pound per plant.• Roots should be planted in the springafter the last frost.• Keep asparagus well watered, but do notallow the soil to become overly wet orsoggy.

Planting AsparagusIf you decide to plant from seeds, sow

them thinly in shallow drills that are 30inches apart.

‘Growing Asparagus at Home’

See ASPARAGUS, 4

Page 4: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

4 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

By Lib Stewart

Dan Potter’s three inch tall baby bird-

house gourds are his favorites.

The Kings Mountain High soccer

coach and popular teacher “picked up” his

project for fun three years ago and hasn’t

stopped planting seeds in his garden and

cultivating seven different varieties of

gourds.

During spring break last week art stu-

dents at the high school painted gourds in

all shapes and sizes and the pretty gourds

will be sold to help out the Renaissance

Club rewards program. Last year students

painted the gourds, sold them, and the

Renaissance project earned $700.

Gourds have been cultivated for thou-

sands of years by many cultures world-

wide, Dan tells his students in Civics,

Economics and Psychology classes.

Gourds were used by Native Americans

for their usefulness as utensils, storage

containers and ornaments. Gourds are ac-

tually related to melons, squash, pumpkins

and cucumbers.

The bird house variety produces pro-

lific vines with yellow blossoms and re-

quires the longest growing season of all

the gourds. Gourds are ready for harvest-

ing when the stems dry and turn brown.

“My students have become as inter-

ested in gourds as I am,’’ said Potter, who

gives away gourds to friends.

A native of St. Louis, Mo., Potter is the

son of Jeannine Potter and the late Les

Potter. He graduated from the University

of South Carolina and met his wife, the

former Pat Durham, at a soccer game.

They married and Kings Mountain be-

came their home where they reared three

daughters: Meg Wood, Lesley Deaton, and

Susie Potter. Their pride and joy are the

four grandchildren, all under the age of 4,

and (another on the way). During spring

break the Potters head for Raleigh to see

Meg and family and Susie and to Morgan-

ton to see Lesley and family. The grand-

children are Addison and Eli Deaton, chil-

dren of Tyler and Leslie Deaton, and Ezra

and Durham Wood, sons of Lane and Meg

Wood.

“I love to teach and coach men’s soccer

and all my students are special,’’ says Pot-

ter, who joined the Kings Mountain

Schools 24 ½ years ago at KM Junior

High where he taught 1 ½ years before

moving to KM Middle School where he

taught three years before moving to the

high school. His wife, Pat, works with

Gentiva Home Health Agency in Shelby.

Obviously the Potters love gardening

and the outdoors and Dan plans to con-

tinue planting gourd seeds along with veg-

etables. He tends them carefully and loves

to see them grow.

How does your ‘gourd’ grow?

Dan Potter displays a variety of gourds at his home on Edgemont Drive in KingsMountain. Photos by Lib Stewart

These gourdsare beinghung to dryand use asbirdhouses.

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From page 3

Thin to 3 inches apart the first year.

Pick out inferior plants for thinning until

the ones left by the third year are a foot

apart.

Caring for Growing Asparagus• During the springtime, allow first spears

to grow.

• Mound organic mulch over the beds as

the spears develop.

• In the summertime, clear weeds.

• When fall arrives, apply 10 to 15 pounds

of compost per 100 square feet.

• Plants should be protected from frost in

the wintertime by applying mulch.

• In the third year of growing asparagus,

cut spears for harvest when they are over 5

inches long.

• Avoid cutting closer than 2 inches above

the ground, so that new shoots can develop.

• After harvesting, apply a 6 to 12 inch

layer of leaf mulch.

Time Line for Growing AsparagusAsparagus is a perennial which will

continue producing every spring for years.

Unfortunately, if you start growing as-

paragus from seed, the plants will not reach

maturity for three years.

You can purchase one year roots to

speed up the process.

However, it is advised by seasoned gar-

deners that two year old roots do not trans-

plant well.

So if you can come to terms with the

fact that you will not be eating fresh as-

paragus the first year, then by all means

consider growing asparagus!

ASPARAGUS: how to grow it at home

Page 5: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 5

By Michael E. Powell

As a well-known televisioncommercial reminds viewers,when it comes to making sureyour lawn grows, the main key isfeeding it as often as possiblethroughout the year.

While we all don’t have atenacious Scot to remind us to“Feed (our) lawn (insert yourname here), feed it!”, we can stillconsult with and listen to ourlocal horticultural agents andlawn and garden guys and gals.

One such is Mark Upchurch,owner of Upchurch Lawn andGarden in Cherryville.

Upchurch and his son Will,who incidentally teaches folkshow to take care of their plants,soils, and gardens, not only knowwhat you need to feed your lawn(and garden plants) the rightstuff, they know how to makesure you get your clay soil theright pH balance to have a stun-ning lawn all year round.

Will said one of the most im-portant things he feels anyone

can do, especially with the clay-based soils we have here is totake advantage of having stateagronomists check your soil per-sonally.

They do this by the individualtaking from between 15-20 soilsamples from various spots intheir yard, putting them in asmall cardboard box or boxes

(provided either by Upchurch’sor the horticulture folks at theGaston Citizens Center in Dal-las), then mailing them toRaleigh.

“In no time at all they willhave an answer back to you let-ting you know what your soilneeds.”

Will said the state does thisfor free so he advises his clientsto take advantage of it.

Both Upchurch men knowevery yard is different so theneed to do this is very important,especially if one is serious abouta great looking (and healthy)lawn.

“As acidic as our soil can be,you may have to add lime to it,but there are other minerals, suchas iron or magnesium that youmight need to consider as well,”Mark said.

“Feeding your lawn, like thatcommercial says, is very impor-tant as well,” he continued.

And one can do that any timethe weather is right, from mid-March through April or on

through mid-May.Since no two lawns are alike,

the bottom line, literally, is hav-ing a healthier root system, ac-cording to Scot’s Miracle-Groweb site. A well-fed lawn meansa healthier root system that can“combat heat, cold, drought,mowing, foot traffic and otherstresses.” They also acknowledgethat while feeding your lawnonce a year improves its condi-tion, “feeding it four times a yearwill make it even healthier.”

They offer a regular lawn-feeding schedule for a lush-look-ing and green lawn, one they saywill turn “your neighbors greenwith envy.”

The Upchurches and manylawn and garden professionals allagree early spring is the best timeto start feeding your lawn be-cause, in their estimation, “lawnswake up hungry in the spring,”and feeding your lawn in thespring “gets it off to a good startbefore the heavy growing sea-son.”

Feed your lawn the right stuff!

Mark Upchurch, owner of Upchurch’s Lawn and Garden, withtwo items of great importance for the would-be lawn lover; a soilbox to have free soil pH tests done by the state, and a bag of “Weedand Feed” for the lawn. Two basic items, he said, with which to getstarted in taking care and feeding your future fantastic lawn.

Photo by Michael E. Powell

See YOUR LAWN, 12

Page 6: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

6 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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Bridges Hardware301 W King St

Kings Mountain, NC704-739-5461

[email protected]

23834

There are some plantsthat do well together (com-panion plants) when theyare planted next to eachother and there are certaincombinations of plants thatslows the growth of one orboth types of plants. Basi-cally, certain plants loveeach other and certainplants hate each other.

Companion planting canbe a complex and oftenoverwhelming if you let it.But as you gain more expe-rience and develop a feelingfor gardening, companionplanting will becomeclearer. Just be sure not tolet too much planning spoilthe fun and excitement ofworking in the garden!

This isn’t to say that youcan’t grow these plants to-gether in the same garden,just don’t grow them rightnext to each other. Below,at left,0 is a guide to helpidentify what grows welltogether and what doesn’t.The chart lists the compati-bility, both the good and thebad, of plants when plantednext to each other.

Companion planting is adiscipline in which furtheranalysis needs to be carriedout. There are a lot of un-knowns and variables thatmust be considered. Suchas the age of the vegetablesor herbs, the percent ofeach of the varieties ofplants grown in combina-tion, and how close to-gether they are planted. Itshould be done with an in-quisitive approach to seewhat actually works welltogether and what doesn’t.Are the benefits or negativeinfluences due to root ex-cretions, plant aroma, or thepollen of composite flowersthat attracts certain benefi-cial insects?

All-Around Beneficial Influence

Certain herbs have abeneficial influence on thewhole plant community.These plants and theircharacteristics are:• Lemon balm creates abeneficial atmospherearound itself and attractsbees. • Marjoram has a benefi-cial effect on surroundingplants.• Oregano has a beneficialeffect on surroundingplants.• Stinging nettle (Urticadioica): Helps neighboringplants to grow more resist-ant to spoiling. • Valerian (Valeriana offic-inali): Helps most vegeta-bles. • Chamomile

(Chamaemelum nobile): Alime specialist.

Plant (Herb) Benefit

Basil Companion to tomatoes; dislikes rue intensely; improves growth and flavor; repels flies and mosquitoesBee balm Companion to tomatoes; improves growth and flavor.Borage Companion to tomatoes, squash, and strawberries; deters tomato worms; improves growth and flavor.Caraway Plant here and there; loosens soil.Chamomile Companion to cabbage and onions; improves growth and flavor.Chervil Companion to radishes; improves growth and flavor.Chives Companion to carrots; improves growth and flavor.”Dead” nettle Companion to potatoes; deters potato bugs; improves growth and flavor.Dill Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots; improves the growth and health of cabbage.Fennel Plant away from gardens; most plants dislike it.Garlic Plant near roses and raspberries; deters Japanese beetles; improves growth and health.Horseradish Plant at the corners of a potato patch to deter potato bugs.Hyssop Deters cabbage moths; companion to cabbage and grapes. Keep away from radishes.Marigolds The workhorse of the pest deterrents. Plant throughout the garden; discourages insects.Marjoram Here and there in the garden; improves flavor.Mint Companion to cabbage and tomatoes; improves health and flavor; deters white cabbage moths.Mole plant Deters moles and mice if planted here and there.Nasturtium Plant under fruit trees; deters aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles; improves growth & flavor.Peppermint Planted among cabbages, it repels white cabbage butterfliesPetunia Protects beans.Pigweed One of the best weeds for pumping nutrients from the subsoil; keep weeds thinned.Pot marigold (Calendula) Companion to tomatoes, deters asparagus beetles, tomato worms, and general garden pests.Purslane deters asparagus beetles, tomato worms, and general garden pests.Rosemary Companion to cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage; deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot fliesRue Keep it far away from sweet basil; plant near roses and raspberries; deters Japanese beetles.Sage Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots; keep away from cucumbers; deters cabbage mothsTansy Plant under fruit trees; deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs & ants.Tarragon Good throughout the garden.Thyme Here and there in the garden; deters cabbage worms.ValerianGood anywhere in the garden.Wormwood As a border, it keeps animals from the garden.

Plant Good Bad (Vegetable) Companions Companions

Asparagus Tomatoes, parsley, basil

Beans Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, Onions, garlic, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant, gladiolus, chives summer savory, most other vegetables and herbs

Beans, bush Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, Onionsstrawberries, celery, summer savory

Beans, pole Corn, summer savory, sunflower Onions, beets,kohlrabi, cabbage

Beets Onions, Kohlrabi Pole beans

Cabbage family Aromatic plants, potatoes, (cabbage, cauliflower, celery, dill, hyssop, Strawberries, kale, kohlrabi, broccoli) chamomile, sage, peppermint, tomatoes,

rosemary, beets, onions pole beans

Carrots Peas, leaf lettuce, chives, onions, Dillleeks, rosemary, sage, tomatoes

Celery Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage

Chives Carrots, tomatoes Peas, beans

Corn Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, Tomatomelons, pumpkins, squash

Cucumbers Beans, corn, peas, radishes, Potatoes,sunflowers, lettuce aromatic herbs

Eggplant Beans, potatoes, spinach

Leeks Onions, celery, carrots

Lettuce Carrots and radishes, strawberries, cucumbers, onions

Melons Corn, Nasturtium, radish 

Onions(garlic) Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, Peas, beanslettuce, summer savory, leeks,chamomile (sparsely), pepper

Parsley Tomatoes, asparagus

Peas Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, onions, garlic,corn, beans, most vegetables and herbs gladiolus, potatoes,

chives

Potatoes Beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish Pumpkins, squash,(should be planted at the corners of cucumbers, the patch), marigolds, eggplant sunflowers,

tomatoes, raspberries

Pepper Onion 

Pumpkins Corn Potatoes

Radishes Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce, melons, Hyssopcucumbers

Soybeans Grows with anything, helps everything

Spinach Strawberries, eggplant 

Squash Nasturtiums, corn Potatoes

Strawberries Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce Cabbage(as a border), onions

Sunflowers Cucumbers Potatoes

Tomatoes Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus, Corn, Kohlrabimarigolds, nasturtiums, carrots

Turnips Peas  

Companion Plants: What grows well together

Page 7: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 7

1233 West Franklin Blvd., Gastonia

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David DillingDilling Heating Company

Now that spring is here, it is time toget your home in shape. Spring-cleaningincludes caring for your air conditioningsystem with preventive maintenance.Peak performance and energy savings canbe achieved by following our recommen-dations.

The following is a checklist used byprofessional HVAC companies in servic-ing your unit for spring and summer:• Clean air conditioning evaporator and con-denser coils. Dirty coils reduce the system’s abilityto cool your home and cause the system to runlonger, increasing energy costs and reducing thelife of the equipment• Check refrigerant levels. Too much or too littlerefrigerant may cause your system to use moreenergy• Clean and adjust blower components to provideproper system airflow for greater comfort levels.Airflow problems may reduce cooling efficiency by15%• Tighten all electrical connections and measurevoltage on motors. Faulty connections may resultin unsafe operation of your systemLubricate all moving parts. This reduces friction in

motors• Check and inspect the condensate drain.Clogged drains may cause water damage and af-fect indoor humidity levels• Check controls of the cooling system to ensureproper and safe operation• Check thermostat settings to ensure the cool-ing system is set to be comfortable and also saveas much energy as possible

There are also actions homeowners cantake to keep cooling equipment runningefficiently:• Inspect and change air filters monthly in your airconditioner or heat pump. A dirty filter can dam-age your equipment and possibly lead to earlyfailure• The area around the outdoor part of the heatpump must be kept clear of debris• Clear out grass clippings, dry leaves, and dirtfrom the unit regularly• Do not mow around the outdoor unit while it isrunning• Look for ants around the outdoor unit. Ants canenter the unit and interrupt the flow of electricityin the system• Identify the location where the condensate drainterminates and look for water in that area. Thisindicates the condensation is draining from theunit

Spring-clean your air conditioning system

Spending time outdoorscan recharge the soul andbring the family together. Inyour own backyard you canfind beauty, enjoyment anda place to connect with na-ture — so long as you makesure to maintain all thosebeautiful trees and plants.

Whether you have a gar-den, woodlands or naturallandscaping on your prop-erty, you will want to keepyour land healthy and freeof unwanted pests. And ex-perts say that woodlandsneed special attention.

Although trees lookstrong, woodland ecosys-tems are particularly vul-nerable to natural andman-made dangers that cangradually reduce the healthand beauty of your woods,says Mike Burns, foresterand program resource man-ager with the American For-est Foundation.

A U.S. Forest Service as-

sessment released last De-cember predicts that asmany as 34 million acres offorestland could be lost inthe United States during thenext 50 years, and that allregions in the United Stateswill experience increasedstress from natural disastersand pest infestations.

Luckily, there are stepslandowners can take to helpkeep trees and woodlandssafe from pests:

• Keep an eye out forchanges. On trees, spots ofyellow or brown or somethinning needles might bethe effects of natural shad-ing on lower limbs — or itmight be a disease or insectthat’s about to spread toother trees.

• Stay informed aboutthreats in your area. Contactyour state forestry agencyor state department of natu-ral resources to find outwhat’s bugging your area.

• Monitor for pests andsigns of disease everymonth or two. Check treeson the trunk, limbs, twigs,under peeling bark andleaves — the most likelyplaces to find injuries. Keepyour eye open for thingsthat look out of the ordi-nary.

• Online resources canhelp you become a bettersteward of your land. If youown some woodlands, con-sider signing up for the MyLand Plan resource,launched by the AmericanForest Foundation. MyLand Plan can help youconnect with up-to-date in-formation about pestthreats, map your land‚Äôsboundaries and recordchanges over time, all atwww.MyLandPlan.org. Youcan explore the website’snewly expanded invasivepest and pathogen section

Keeping your backyard pest-free

See YOUR YARD, 13

Page 8: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

8 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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By Beth Brock

When most people plant a gar-den, they think of the usual veg-etables – corn, beans, cucumbers,maybe some cantaloupes andtomatoes. But how many peoplearound Kings Mountain growpeanuts, tobacco, horseradish,popcorn, and garlic along with theusual garden-variety vegetables?

Joe Brock does just that. Drive down South Cansler

Street and you’ll pass a house withsome unusual sights in the backyard.

The first thing that might catchyour eye is a 25-foot water tower.Then as you get a little closer,you’ll notice about eight raisedgarden beds. This is the Brockhouse and gardens.

Joe starts seedlings in late win-ter to have them ready to trans-plant in one of the raised beds orhis regular in-ground garden.

There is a greenhouse wherethe plants are started and as they

mature, and as the weather warmsup, they are transplanted into oneof the gardens. In the raised beds,Joe plants asparagus, herbs,onions, garlic, horseradish, egg-plants and strawberries. This mayvary from year to year.

He likes to grow things that

other people may not think aboutgrowing just to see how they willdo. He has discovered that peanutsgrow well in the garden, and to-bacco thrives. Last year he planteda half-dozen different varieties ofpeppers, and also a half-dozentypes of lettuce. He has learned

the best varieties of potatoes togrow and he grows both sweet po-tatoes and Yukon Gold.

The peanuts turned out to besurprising. You see a pretty smallplant growing out of the ground,and when you pull it up, there aresometimes 100 or more peanutsgrowing underground!

The fertilizer for the gardencomes from a compost pile that isfed year-round. The pile compostswell, in fact, too well at times.One day Joe came home to findhis neighbor putting out a fire withthe hose. The compost had caughtfire, and she was afraid it wouldspread.

One of the most interesting as-pects of Joe’s gardening is his ir-rigation system. In front of hisgardening shed is a 250-galloncistern that collects rainwater. Thewater is pumped to the tower withsolar power from panels (boughtat a yard sale) on top of his work-shop. The water pressure is strongenough from the 25-foot tower

that he can use a spray nozzle orsprinklers. The great thing aboutthis is that he is getting free water,and it is totally chemical free!

Gardening doesn’t end with theraised beds and the regular gar-den. All around the yard are vari-ous fruit trees, berry vines andbushes, two grape arbors, andeven an almond tree! In the fall,he’s busy collecting pecans fromhis several trees. And flowersabound year round.

Joe saves seeds from one sea-son to the next, and last summerwas surprised to see a zinniagrowing that was half pink, halfwhite – divided right down themiddle. He researched this phe-nomenon and discovered that it iscalled a fractile, which is a colorgene mutant. There is no rhyme orreason as to why the saved seedssometimes produce the unusualflowers.

And last, but not least, all thegrowth in the yard and gardens is

Gardening, it’s not just for tomatoes and corn!

Joe Brock shows off some of the bees he keeps housed in thebackyard to assist with pollination.

See GARDENING, 10

Page 9: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 9

When to Plant Vegetables For Zones 7-8Each USDA planting zone has its own schedule for sowing seeds. If you’re new to vegetable gardening, you’ll want to know that there is a right time to sow each vari-

ety of vegetable seed. By following our zone chart for both cool and warm season vegetables, you’ll be sure to sow your seeds in the correct window of time, enablingoptimum sprouting and yield. And don’t forget, the seeds you pick are also of the greatest importance. Even if you are an old hand in the vegetable garden, we hope thatour USDA zone planting chart will be a useful tool for organizing your spring and summer vegetable planting.

A Garden Planting ChartCrop Days to Spring Fall Seed/Plants Distance between Distance between Depth

Maturity Planting Dates Planting Dates 100 Feet Rows Plants to Plant

Asparagus 2nd season Jan. 15-Mar. 15 Nov. & Dec. 50 roots 3 to 5 ft. 1½ to 2 ft. 6 in.

Bean, bush 50-60 Apr. 1 - May 1 July 15-Aug. 20 ½ lb. 3 ft. 2 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.

Bean, pole 65-75 Apr. 1-May 1 July 15-Aug. 10½ lb. 3 ft. 6 to 12 in. 1-1½ in.

Bean, lima 65-75 Apr. 1 - June 1 July 1-Aug. 11 lb. 2 to 2½ ft. 3 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.

Beet 55-65 Feb. 15-Apr. 1 Aug. 1-Sept. 20 1 oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 2 in. 1 in.

Broccoli 60-80 Feb. 15-Mar. 15 Aug. 1-Sept. 1 100 plants 2½ ft. 14 to 18 in.

Cabbage 65-80 Jan. 15-Mar. 15 Aug. 15-Oct. 1 100 plants 2½ ft. 12 in.

Cantaloupe 80-90 Mar. 25-Apr. 20 Not recommended 1 oz. 4 to 6 ft. 3½ to 4 ft. 1½ in.

Carrot 70-80 Jan. 15-Mar. 20 Aug. 20-Sept. 15 ½ oz. 2 ft. 2 to 3 in. ½ in.

Cauliflower 55-60 Mar. 1-Apr. 1 Aug. 1-Sept. 1 100 plants 3 ft. 12 to 18 in.

Collard 55-70 Feb. 1-Mar. 20 Aug. 1-Oct. 1 ½ oz. 2½ ft. 8 to 16 in. ½ in.

Corn 80-100 Mar. 15-June 1 June 1-July 20 ¼ lb. 3 to 3½ ft. 12 to 18 in. 2 in.

Cucumber 60-65 Apr. 1-May 15 Aug. 20-Sept. 1 1 oz. 3½ to 5 ft. 3 to 4 ft. 1½ in.

Eggplant 75-90 Apr. 1-May 15 July 10-15 50 plants 3 ft. 2½ to 3 ft.

Kale 50-70 Feb. 1-Mar. 10 Aug. 10 30½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.

Lettuce 60-85 Jan. 15-Mar. 1 Sept. 1-Oct. 1½ oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 10 to 12 in. ½ in.

Mustard 40-50 Jan. 15-Apr. 1 Aug. 20-Oct. 1½ oz. 2 ft. 1 in. ½ in.

Okra 55-60 Apr. 1-June 1 June 15-July 11 oz. 3 to 3½ ft. 6 in. 1 in.

Onion (mature) 100-120 Jan. 1-Mar. 15 Sept. 1-Dec. 31 300 plants or ½ gal. sets 1 to 2 ft. 3 to 4 in. ¾ in.

Peas, garden 60-80 Jan. 15-Feb. 15 Not recommended 1 lb. 2½ ft. 1 in. 1½-2 in.

Peas, southern 60-70 Apr. 1-Aug. 1-½ lb. 3 ft. 4 to 6 in. 1½-2 in.

Pepper 65-80 Apr. 1-June 1- 50 plants 2½ ft.1 ½ to 2 ft.

Potato, Irish 70-90 Jan. 15-Mar. 1 Aug. 1-Aug. 151 peck 2½ to 3 ft. 10 to 14 in. 5 in.

Potato, sweet 90-150 Apr. 15-June 15 100 plants 3½ ft. 12 in.

Radish 25-30 Jan. 15-Apr. 1 Sept. 1-Oct. 151 oz. 1½ ft. 1 in. ½ in.

Spinach 40-45 Jan. 15-Mar. 15 Sept. 1-Oct. 151 oz. 1½ to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ¾ in.

Squash, bush 50-55 Apr. 1-May 15 Aug. 1-20 1 oz. 3 to 4 ft. 2 ft. 1½-2 in.

Squash, winter 85-90 Apr. 1-Aug. 1-½ oz. 5 ft. 3 ft. 1½-2 in.

Tomato 70-85 Mar. 25-May 1 June 1-Aug. 10 50 plants 3 to 4 ft. 2½ to 3 ft.

Turnip 45-65 Jan. 15-Apr. 1 Aug. 10-Sept. 15 ½ oz. 1 to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ½ in.

Watermelon 80-90 Mar. 20-May 1 Do not plant 1 oz. 10 ft .8 to 10 ft. 1½ in.

Page 10: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

10 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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Hometown Hardware

I learned to prepare a garden plot

at an early age . . .my brother and I

would take turns walking behind

the small horse drawn cultivator.

This was not an easy thing to do,

but “Doc” the horse was twice our

age and of course knew 10 times

more about cultivating a garden

than we did. Doc went about his du-

ties the way it should have been

done, making us boys look a little

smarter.

Dad’s first rule of a good garden

plot was to “break” or turn the

ground in the fall of the year, add

some leaves, straw and manure

(see, Doc was helpful there also) to

the soil, let the winter take its course

with rain freezing the ground. In

early spring the tilling began.

The first pass through the garden

would be the one to get the soil

loosened up, then we would pick up

the rocks that seem to grow in the

winter (Doc hated stepping on

rocks). With the coming of modern

power equipment Doc got retired to

the pasture which made his life

more easy . . .

But some things never change.

Basic rules of preparing a good

garden spot

Take the time to do a thorough

job. Inadequate tilling will lead to

an uneven layer of uncultivated soil

under the loose dirt on top, like an

uneven floor under carpet. You can

rake the loose dirt level, but as it

settles with time and watering the

uneven sub-surface eventually

shows up as small hills and valleys.

The uneven surface is annoying in

a garden, but you can correct it next

year.

The most common cause of un-

even tilling is trying to save time by

tilling to the full depth of the tines

on the first pass. Every time the

tiller lurches, it leaves a high spot in

the sub-surface layer.

Instead of trying to cultivate to

the full depth of 8-10 inches all at

once, make multiple passes across

an area, lowering the blade a couple

of inches each time.

Each time you lower the blade to

cultivate deeper, start cultivating in

a different direction and start half a

row offset from the previous rows.

Repeating the pattern and following

your previous rows tends to make

ruts that will show up later.

Make four - yes, I said FOUR -

passes across the area at each blade

depth. The first two passes cultivate

the soil lengthwise and crosswise.

Then make the third pass diagonally

to the first two, and the fourth pass

at right angles to the third one.

To incorporate extra material

into the soil - compost, manure or

sand - spread the material evenly

over the soil and then till the area in

the four directions.

Sharpen the tines before you

start tilling. Before you lower the

blades to till deeper, check the tines

and sharpen them if they need it.

Try this method in getting a gar-

den ready for planting and seed. I

am sure that you will be able to reap

a more bountiful harvest.

Sure do miss ole Doc.

Proper cultivation of your garden

From page 8

pollinated by the honeybees housed in the back yard. Joe and his

two sons got interested in raising bees a few years ago, and after

the boys moved out of town, he added their bees to his own. Joe

bought sourwood trees from Tennessee in order to have sour-

wood honey. Most of the trees didn’t survive, but the bees still

produce plenty of delicious golden honey. On several occasions,

swarms of bees have come to the yard, or to neighboring yards,

and Joe has collected them and added them to his hives.

He has been canning and freezing his produce for years, but

has recently started experimenting with other methods of preser-

vation. He makes sauerkraut the old fashioned way, burying it in

the ground to ferment. The kraut is a hit with dinner guests.

A newer experiment is making marinated vegetables using the

culture from yogurt. This too, has been a success, and is a healthy

alternative to pickling with vinegar and salt.

Living just a block from downtown Kings Mountain, Joe has

proved that you don’t have to live in the country to be a farmer!

If you are interested in learning more about anything in the ar-

ticle, you can email Joe at: [email protected].

GARDENING: it’s not justfor tomatoes and corn

Page 11: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 11

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Jennifer ParkerPremier Federal Credit Union

What is home equity? Home eq-uity is the market value of a home-owner’s unencumbered interest intheir real property. Or more simplystated it is the difference betweena home’s fair market value and out-standing balance of all liens on theproperty.

Home Equity Loans and HomeEquity Lines of Credit are twoproducts that homeowners oftenuse. They are most often referredto as Second Mortgages and areavailable at most Credit Unionsand other financial institutions.Home Equity Loans are usually aone-time, lump sum loan mostoften with a fixed interest rate.Home Equity Lines of Credit arerevolving lines of credit usuallywith an adjustable interest rate;however some financial institu-tions offer a fixed-rate loan as well.Most second mortgages are fi-nanced for 10 or 15 years.

Your house is more than just a

home; it may also be a great sourceof cash. There are many reasonsfor putting the equity in your hometo work for you. Money from theseloans can be used for consolidatinghigh interest credit cards and otherunsecured debt. It can also be usedfor larger transactions such as pay-ing for college, weddings, new ap-pliance upgrades, kitchen andbathroom renovations, or full homeremodels.

Using the equity in your hometo pay for these types of transac-tions can be beneficial in manyways. By paying off high interestcredit cards you can save money ininterest and possibly lower yourmonthly payments. You can alsoincrease your credit score, and thatopens the door to lower interestrates on future loans. Additionally,when you use this equity as secu-rity for home repairs, your interestmay even be tax deductible. Con-tact your tax consultant for moreinformation on your personal situ-ation.

Danny HendersonParker Farm Service

Buying a Used Tractor? Be sureto know your stuff –

First, making a decision on thatused tractor you’re sizing up is thetoughest part. Due to the huge se-lection of models, makes and otheroptions out there, you’ll want themost economical pick that hasonly the options you need. So hereare 5 tips you’ll want to keep inmind.

What will you use the tractor for?Knowing this will help you in

narrowing down your choices. It’spointless to consider a constructiontractor with a bush cutter attach-ment if you’re looking to till andseed only. Save yourself moneyand space by buying only whatyou need.

Is more power “better?You’ll save money by choosing

the lower torque models, but willyou be sacrificing labor and longterm investment? That’s right:

your used tractor is much morethan a tool, it’s an investment. So,if you’re working with heavy clayor hilly terrain, going for the trac-tor with that higher-end engine andtorque output might be the bestbet. Remember, the attachmentsyou use will require their ownamount of power, too. Alwaysmake sure you match your imple-ment with the correct horsepowerto prevent damage and to keep asafe environment for you!

Attachments & your used tractorAlways consider which attach-

ments you’ll need BEFORE buy-ing your used tractor. Looking fora front loader? Seek out tractorsthat have dual hydraulic connec-tions. Different attachments take avariety of horse power. Study yourcurrent and future attachmentneeds and get the correct size trac-tor for those needs and attach-ments.

When “antique” doesn’t cut it.Antique tractors are a charming

addition to any home or farm, butthey certainly are not the choice of

any working agricultural profes-sional. Be sure that the used tractoryou’re looking at has a powertake-off (PTO). The PTO is asplined driveshaft that providespower to tractor attachments, in-cluding but not limited to post holediggers and other rear attachments.Many older tractors do not includea power take-off, specifically mid-century or older tractors. Today,common PTOs operate at 540RPM, and are commonly seen at1000 in certain areas.

You’ll need parts -make sure you can find ‘em!

Since you WILL need futureparts and maintenance it’s best tostay away from those lesser-knownbrands of used tractors. Hard tofind parts and hefty shipping feescan be quite expensive. This iswhy the top name brand tractors,including New Holland and Kub-ota have been fan favorites foryears. Remember, nothing is worsethat a tractor sitting idly whileyou’re waiting for parts to arrive!

Come see us for all your tractorequipment and gardening needs.

Putting the equity in your home to work for you

Looking to buy a used tractor?Check out these top 5 tips first

Page 12: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

12 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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Resurrection Lutheran Church’s Com-munity Garden produces a bountiful har-vest every year from prayer andvolunteers who till it with love.

God’s hungry are fed from the gardenand also from donations from all denomi-nations at the busy and popular free soupkitchen at Central United MethodistChurch. Thousands of meals have beenprepared and served by volunteers whohave conducted a project for a number ofyears that has become a blessing formany.

Resurrection Pastor Hobbie Outtensaid church members started planting acommunity garden on a plot of groundbehind the church in 2009. The projectgrew.

“Sometimes we harvested 10 timesmore cucumbers than what was neededfor the Central Methodist ministry sosome food goes to neighbors and tochurch members to cheer them up andsince our choir always cheers us up theyget a special gift from the garden put ontheir windshields while they are in choirpractice,” said the minister.

Outten said that a total of 298 hours of

volunteer labor has gone intothe garden in the past severalyears from neighborhood Pres-byterians, Baptists, Methodists,Church of God and Lutherans.

He said the big harvest eachyear comes from the prayers ofthe children in the ResurrectionLutheran School Pre-School.The children love the gardentoo, and enjoy seeing the tinyplants sprout up to becometasty red tomatoes, green cu-cumbers, and other vegetables.

Outten said that a total of3,991 pounds of produce hasbeen harvested from the com-munity garden. That’s lots ofgood eating.

The beauty of a Community Garden

Top right: Resurrectionpre-schoolers throws outseed in the garden.

At right: Vegetables fromthe community garden areharvested and ready to beshared.

From page 5

Note to lawn lovers: ifcrabgrass was a problemlast year, Mark and Willsaid to apply a combina-tion fertilizer with a pre-emergent to control it.

“That could be some-thing like using Triple-17or some similar, slow-re-lease fertilizer,” Mark said.The first number on thebag indicates the nitrogencontent, which he added isvery important and muchneeded this time of year.

For the latespring (April -June) feeding,Miracle-Grosays to considerit your lawn’s“lunch time.”

Grass is“busy” and isusing up storedenergy, so lawnlovers need tosupply theirlawns with a feeding de-signed for this time ofyear. Upchurch added thatunfortunately broadleafweeds are actively grow-ing, too.

Their store, as do otherlawn and garden stores,carry weed control agentsto hit those pesky weedswhile at the same timefeeding the lawn with acombination of fertilizer

with broadleaf weed con-trol, known as a “weed-n-feed” program.

The heat of summer(July-Aug.) is tough onany yard grass, Upchurchsaid.

“Many things can stressa lawn out, such as heat,drought, foot traffic, andinsects.”

A summer feeding pro-tects and strengthens alawn against these prob-lems.

If insects are seen in thegrass, Upchurch recom-

mends using afeeding productthat also containsinsect control,commonlyfound.

Miracle-Gro’sweb site remindslawn lovers thatthe fall (Sept.-Nov.) is a timeof “ideal condi-tions for your

lawn.” They mention the“cool nights, ample rain-fall, and morning dew arejust about as good as itgets for grass.” After theheat of the summer, thelawn is ready to growagain, and is looking forthe nutrients it needs to re-cover from summer dam-age.

Upchurch and othergardening experts know,and mention frequently

how this season’s feedingcould just be the singlemost important lawn feed-ing of the year.

A final feeding at thistime, right before wintersets in, helps the lawn“prep” for its winter nap.

During this time theroots get strengthened,more nitrogen is stored foran early spring, with theend result hopefully beinga healthier lawn for thenext year.

Upchurch said with thered, clayish soil found inN.C., it takes between fourand five years to get a re-ally spectacular lookinglawn, but the work is wellworth it.

For those with barespots, he recommendsusing a good grass seed,such as Kentucky 31-TallFescue Grass seed, to ironout those rough spots.

“It’s a good drought-re-sistant seed with goodwear and foot traffic toler-ance.” Another brand hementioned was TheRebel’s Tall Fescue Mix,adding his clients have hadgood results with thosebrands.

Whatever your choices,the Upchurches not onlystand behind the productsbut are there with adviceto help lawn lovers havethe nicest looking lawnsaround.

YOUR LAWN: needs the right food to thrive

“Many thingscan stress a

lawn out, suchas heat, drought,

foot traffic, and insects.”

Page 13: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 13

Settle-ComfortHeating & Cooling Systems

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From page 7

and locate professional services available

for your needs.

• If you suspect an outbreak, collect

samples of tree damage and any associated

pests to accurately identify the problem,

which may have more than one cause. Take

pictures and notes on your trees’ symptoms.

Often pictures are enough for an expert to

identify the problem and help you figure

out what to do next. Next steps can be iden-

tified by your state forestry agency or de-

partment of natural resources.

• If you discover an insect that you sus-

pect might be a danger to your trees, seal it

in a container and store it in the freezer until

you can deliver it to a proper authority.

In the long run, nature might well be in-

vincible, but in the short run, residents may

need a helping hand to protect local land to

keep trees healthy.

YOUR YARD: keeping it pest free

Cooking from the garden is not like

cooking from the store. There’s nothing

more tasty, nutritious and satisfying than

fresh, homemade meals made from the

fruits, vegetables and herbs you grew your-

self.

Experts say that even with modest

amounts of time and space, you can grow an

organic garden plot that feeds your family

all year long.

“The simplest methods of gardening

work best,” says Barbara Damrosch, organic

gardening expert and co-author of the new

book, “The Four Season Farm Gardener”

Cookbook, which serves as both a garden

guide and a healthful cookbook. “There is

very little you can’t accomplish in the gar-

den if you trust the systems that are already

in place.”

Damrosch and co-author Eliot Coleman

contend that organic vegetable gardening is

not only healthful for you and your family,

but is also good for the planet and can make

a serious dent in your food expenses.

They are offering these great tips to any-

one looking to grow and cook their own

food:

• When choosing which plants to grow,

consider how much space you have. Salad

crops, for example, give you the most vari-

ety in a garden of limited size. Consider pri-

oritizing crops whose flavor is most notably

lacking in supermarket varieties, such as

tomatoes, strawberries, cucumbers and mel-

ons.

• It helps to get to know different plants

on a family basis. Family groupings are very

important in planning how to rotate the

crops in your garden from year to year, and

much of the techniques that work for one

vegetable, apply equally well to its cousins.

• Don’t let weeds get ahead of you. Once

they’ve gained the upper hand, getting rid of

them can seem almost impossible. The ideal

time to control weeds is when they are tiny,

right after they first appear. Take the extra

time to plant in straight lines, which can help

with weed control.

• Veteran gardeners tend to be supportive

resources to newcomers. Let friends with

green thumbs share their enthusiasm and ex-

pertise with you. Or get involved in an or-

ganic community garden, where there is no

shortage of experienced gardeners to con-

sult.

• Pass up the modern habit of eating any

crop, any time of year by letting your gar-

den feed you. Fruits and vegetables that

come from halfway around the world were

often harvested far too early and can have a

disappointing, bland taste. By planning

meals from your garden, you’ll become a

more creative, improvisational cook.

More gardening tips can be found at

www.fourseasonfarm.com.

Eating is one of the most important things

we do, so don’t just settle for what the su-

permarket has to offer. Gardening can revo-

lutionize the way you eat, and help you take

greater control of your family’s nutrition.

Grow what you eat; cook what you grow

These beautifulraised beds for vegetable gardening arepart of JoeBrock’s garden.

See Joe’s story on page 8.

Page 14: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

14 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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January• Start a garden record book now, allowing space to record the dates of first and last frosts, sowing seeds,planting, transplanting, time of bloom, first fruits, fertilizing, problems with pests, and other information. Overa period of years, this will be an invaluable record.• Make a garden plan. • Plan the amount of each vegetable to be planted, including enough to can and freeze. Allow about 1/10acre of garden space for each member of the family.• Buy enough quality seed for two or three plantings to lengthen the season of production.• Take soil samples and take them to your county extension office for analysis.• Apply manure or compost and plow it under if you did not do so in the fall.• Apply lime, sulfur and fertilizer according to the soil-test results and vegetable requirements. Buy 100pounds of fertilize for each 1/10 acre to be planted (if manure is not available, buy at least half againmore). Use 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 analysis, depending on soil test and vegetable requirements.• Get plant beds or seed boxes ready for growing plants such as tomato, pepper and eggplant. Have bedsready for planting in early February.• Check on your compost pile and make sure it is ready for use in the spring.

February• Plant seed boxes. Peppers and eggplants will take eight weeks to grow from seed to transplant size,while tomatoes will take six weeks. When the seedlings form their third set of true leaves, transplant themto individual containers.• Prepare land for planting - winter and early spring plantings belong on a ridge (raised bed) for betterdrainage and earlier soil warm-up.• Make early plantings of your choice from the following: carrots, collards, lettuce, mustard, English peas,Irish potatoes, radishes, spinach and turnips.

• Use “starter” fertilizer solution around transplanted crops such as cabbage.• Replenish the mulch on strawberries.• Seed herbs for April planting.

March• Make second plantings of such quickly-maturing crops as turnips, mustard, radishes and “spring onions.”• Early-planted crops may need a nitrogen side-dressing, particularly if the soil is cool. Place the fertilizerseveral inches to the side of the plants and water it in. A little fertilizer throughout the growing period isbetter than too much at one time.• Before settling them in the garden, harden-off transplants - place them in their containers outdoors in asheltered place a few days ahead of planting them.• Get rows ready for “warm-season” vegetables to be planted during the last week of March or first weekor two of April as weather permits.• Put down mulch between rows to control weeds.

April• Plant your choices of the following “warm-season” or “frost-tender” crops: beans (snap, pole and lima),cantaloupe, corn (sweet), cucumbers, eggplant, okra, field peas, peppers, squash, tomatoes and water-melon.• Plant tall-growing crops such as okra, pole beans and corn on the north side of other vegetables toavoid shading. Plant two or more rows of corn for better pollination.• Make a second planting within two to three weeks of the first planting of snap beans, corn and squash.• Within three to four weeks of the first planting, plant more lima beans and corn. • Cultivate to control weeds and grass, to break crusty soil and to provide aeration.• Maintain mulch between rows.• Plant tender herbs.• Do not work in your garden when the foliage is wet to avoid spreading diseases from one plant to another.

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Keep on track all year longMonthly to-do list with garden activities for zones 7-8

Page 15: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

April 10, 2013 Home, Lawn & Garden 15

Enjoy the bounty of nature. Rhodesdale Farm offers

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May• Make third plantings of vegetables mentioned for April (snap beans, corn, squash, lima beans).• Locate mulching materials for such crops as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, Irish potatoes, okra and limabeans. Apply before dry spells occur but after plants are well established (usually by blooming time).• Pole beans cling to the trellis or sticks more readily if attached by the time they start running.• Watch out for the “10 most wanted culprits”: Mexican bean beetle, Colorado potato beetle, bean leafbeetle, Harlequin cabbage bug, blister beetle, cabbage worm, tomato hornworm, tomato fruit worm (andcorn earworm), cucumber beetle and squash bug. Early discovery makes possible early control.• Keep a log book of problems and failures that occur so you can avoid or prevent them in the next plant-ing season. Note successful techniques and varieties for consideration next season.• Make plans now for putting up some of your garden produce.

June• Harvest vegetables such as beans, peas, squash, cucumbers and okra regularly to prolong productionand enjoy peak freshness.• For best results, harvest onions and Irish potatoes when two-thirds of the tops have died down. Storepotatoes in a cool, dark place and onions in a dry, airy place.• Clean off rows of early crops as soon as they are through bearing and use rows for replanting or keepthem fallow for fall crops.• Plant sweet potatoes and a second planting of Southern peas.

July• Start planning the fall garden.• Clean off harvested rows immediately to prevent insect and disease buildup.• Plant the following vegetables not later than July 20 to allow time to mature before frost: tomatoes, okra,corn, pole beans and lima beans. Also plant cucumbers, squash and snap beans.• Plant that big pumpkin for Halloween.• Make sure the garden is well mulched to prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

August• Plant the following no later than the dates indicated below:• August 15 - Snap beans and Irish potatoes (seed can be sprouted two to three weeks before planting).• August 31 - Cucumbers and squash; plant varieties resistant to downy mildew.

• Start plants for broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale and onions in a half-shaded area for settingout in September.• Prepare soil for September to October plantings of “cool-season” crops. Apply fertilizer and prepareseeded so rains will settle the rows and make it easier to get seeds to germinate when they are planted.

September - October• Choose the mild weather during this period to plant or transplant the following: beets, broccoli, cabbage,carrots, collards, lettuce, mustard, onions, radishes, spinach and turnips. Plant your second planting of fallcrops such as collards, turnips, cabbage, mustard and kale.• Harvest mature green peppers and tomatoes before frost gets them — it may not come until November,but be ready.• Harvest herbs and dry them in a cool, dry place.

November - December• Why not get started early for next year?•Spread manure, rotted sawdust and leaves over the garden and plow them under; you’ll be surprised atthe difference this organic matter will make in the fertility, physical structure and water-holding capacity ofthe soil.• Take a soil sample to allow plenty of time to get the report back. Lime applied now will be of more ben-efit next year than if it is applied in the spring before planting. Always apply Dolomitic limestone in order toget both calcium and magnesium.•Take an “inventory.” Maybe you had too much of some vegetables and not enough of others. Make anote about favorite varieties. Start planning next year’s garden now!• Before sending your seed order, draw a map of the garden area and decide the direction and length ofthe rows, how much row spacing is needed for each vegetable, whether or not to plant on raised beds, andother details.

It’s never too early to startplanning next year’s garden!

Page 16: KMH Lawn & Garden 2013

16 Home, Lawn & Garden April 10, 2013

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