aeronaut

JonnyHarbour tug

Order No. 3030/00

Harbour tug Jonny

Jonny is a fully operational model which will give great pleasure to any model builder. The basic design is that of a modern harbour tug. One outstanding feature of the kit is the very high quality of the materials supplied, and the reward is a superb model. The capacious hull is moulded in GRP, and all locations for openings are moulded-in. The model is supplied complete with two shaft drive systems and twin rudders, but a Kort nozzle system can also be installed at any time. Alternatively the vessel can be fitted with a Schottel drive system, and the building instructions include a section describing this option.The kit includes all the parts required for a stern roller, which means that the vessel can be built in an offshore tug version. The working deck is clad with laser-cut wood panels. The wheelhouse furniture and fittings are included, allowing any level of detail to be incorporated. Additional features are the two working fire monitors, which also rotate.

The kit contains many operational working parts such as towing winch, tugger winches, fire monitors, searchlight and more.

Please follow the individual steps in these instructions when building the model, and read through the descriptions and notes carefully before you reach for the glue bottle. The last few pages of these instructions contain a Parts List to which you should refer constantly during construction. The numbered parts mentioned in the instructions are described accurately in the Parts List, informing you of their form, material and dimensions.Certain parts have to be cut to the correct length by the builder; the correct dimensions are also stated in the Parts List.

Suggested power systems:

Shaft drive systemMotor 2 x Race 720 navy Order No. 7000/49Speed controller 1 - 2 x Multi 25 Order No. 7019/71Lead-acid battery 12 V / 7.2 Ah Order No. 7449/06

1 x Propeller, 60 mm, R.H. Order No. 7174/141 x Propeller, 60 mm, L.H. Order No. 7174/132 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/602 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/662 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/67

Optional Schottel drive systemSchottel drive system, brass Order No. 7020/84

Optional equipmentBow thruster Order No. 7020/28 or 7020/93MicroLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/01EasyLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/03Geared pump Order No. 7140/50Silicone tube Order No. 7274/57Winch drive unit Gear power 15/6V micro geared motor

Recommended adhesivesMaterial Adhesive Order No.GRP / ABS, GRP / PVC UHU Acrylit 7633/09GRP / wood, GRP / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02Wood / wood Ponal Express 7638/10 UHU hart 7631/02Wood / metal, metal / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02 UHU plus schnellfest 7633/04ABS / metal, ABS / wood Stabilit Express 7646/01

Recommended primerMaterial Primer Order No.Plywood Sanding sealer 7666/02

The laser-cut parts are retained in the wooden sheets by small lugs. Release the parts by cutting through the lugs with a sharp knife. Don't break the parts out, as they could be damaged.

We recommend using our balsa knifeOrder No. 8185/00

Use polycarbonate paints to finish the GRP and ABS components.The wooden parts should be primed using sanding sealer and rubbed down before painting.

Tips & notes

Assemble parts 1 - 4 to make the boatstand.

HullUse a pencil to pick out the marked position of the bow thruster (BSR); this will help when cutting the openings.Mark the openings for the bow thruster to suit the unit you intend to install, and cut them out.

We recommend using a Dremel or similar electric tool with a Form Flame diamond cutter to cut the openings; this bit can be used both to drill and shape the opening.Adjust the holes to suit the bow thruster you wish to fit. Assemble the bow thruster using UHU Plast Spezial or Ruderer adhesive.

Position the bow thruster in the hull. The BSR should be angled back at about 50°, so that the screws can be reached at any time (in case of repair); tack it to the hull using cyano-acrylate ('cyano'). Seal any gaps on the outside of the hull using adhesive tape (masking tape; not standard clear tape, as Stabilit / Acrylit sticks to this). Glue the BSR to the inside of the hull using Stabilit / Acrylit. Allow the glue to cure fully, then remove the tape and apply more glue round the tubes on the outside. Cut off the excess tube length and carefully sand back flush with the hull.

2721

19

2023

18 24 258

9

10

11

18

12 1314

22

15

1617

26

Cautiously place the framework in the hull, but don't glue it at this stage!The rear face of frame 13 (shown red) must lie flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake. Now glue the deck stringers 19 to the frames, ensuring that they fit fully into the slots; they must not make contact with the hull.Glue frame 16 to the stringers 18, and the foredeck girders 23 to frames 13 - 16.At a later stage the two stringers 18 can be used as a support for the receiver, speed controllers and other electronic units.

13

1

2

3

4

5

Remove the frames and stringers from the laser-cut sheets. Fit the frames 8 - 15 on one stringer 18, and hold them in place using spring clamps or strips of tape. Insert the second stringer 18 in the slots in the frames, then tack the stringers to the frames using cyano. Glue the battery plate 22 in the frames 12 - 15. Glue the two deck stringers 19 to the frames. The remaining joints are glued when the framework is fitted in the hull. Glue the support 27 between the main deck supports 21.Mark the height of the deck inside the hull, then glue the foredeck support 25 in the bow. Place the frame 17 in position. Lay the foredeck 64 in place and clamp it to the bulwark. Now stand the hull vertically on its bow. Position frame 17 carefully and glue it to the hull. Remove the deck, then glue the foredeck girders 24 in place.

SpecificationScale 1 : 32Height 675 mmWeight 14 kgBeam 308 mmLength 990 mmDraught 110 mm

Harbour tug Jonny

Jonny is a fully operational model which will give great pleasure to any model builder. The basic design is that of a modern harbour tug. One outstanding feature of the kit is the very high quality of the materials supplied, and the reward is a superb model. The capacious hull is moulded in GRP, and all locations for openings are moulded-in. The model is supplied complete with two shaft drive systems and twin rudders, but a Kort nozzle system can also be installed at any time. Alternatively the vessel can be fitted with a Schottel drive system, and the building instructions include a section describing this option.The kit includes all the parts required for a stern roller, which means that the vessel can be built in an offshore tug version. The working deck is clad with laser-cut wood panels. The wheelhouse furniture and fittings are included, allowing any level of detail to be incorporated. Additional features are the two working fire monitors, which also rotate.

The kit contains many operational working parts such as towing winch, tugger winches, fire monitors, searchlight and more.

Please follow the individual steps in these instructions when building the model, and read through the descriptions and notes carefully before you reach for the glue bottle. The last few pages of these instructions contain a Parts List to which you should refer constantly during construction. The numbered parts mentioned in the instructions are described accurately in the Parts List, informing you of their form, material and dimensions.Certain parts have to be cut to the correct length by the builder; the correct dimensions are also stated in the Parts List.

Suggested power systems:

Shaft drive systemMotor 2 x Race 720 navy Order No. 7000/49Speed controller 1 - 2 x Multi 25 Order No. 7019/71Lead-acid battery 12 V / 7.2 Ah Order No. 7449/06

1 x Propeller, 60 mm, R.H. Order No. 7174/141 x Propeller, 60 mm, L.H. Order No. 7174/132 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/602 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/662 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/67

Optional Schottel drive systemSchottel drive system, brass Order No. 7020/84

Optional equipmentBow thruster Order No. 7020/28 or 7020/93MicroLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/01EasyLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/03Geared pump Order No. 7140/50Silicone tube Order No. 7274/57Winch drive unit Gear power 15/6V micro geared motor

Recommended adhesivesMaterial Adhesive Order No.GRP / ABS, GRP / PVC UHU Acrylit 7633/09GRP / wood, GRP / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02Wood / wood Ponal Express 7638/10 UHU hart 7631/02Wood / metal, metal / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02 UHU plus schnellfest 7633/04ABS / metal, ABS / wood Stabilit Express 7646/01

Recommended primerMaterial Primer Order No.Plywood Sanding sealer 7666/02

The laser-cut parts are retained in the wooden sheets by small lugs. Release the parts by cutting through the lugs with a sharp knife. Don't break the parts out, as they could be damaged.

We recommend using our balsa knifeOrder No. 8185/00

Use polycarbonate paints to finish the GRP and ABS components.The wooden parts should be primed using sanding sealer and rubbed down before painting.

Tips & notes

Assemble parts 1 - 4 to make the boatstand.

HullUse a pencil to pick out the marked position of the bow thruster (BSR); this will help when cutting the openings.Mark the openings for the bow thruster to suit the unit you intend to install, and cut them out.

We recommend using a Dremel or similar electric tool with a Form Flame diamond cutter to cut the openings; this bit can be used both to drill and shape the opening.Adjust the holes to suit the bow thruster you wish to fit. Assemble the bow thruster using UHU Plast Spezial or Ruderer adhesive.

Position the bow thruster in the hull. The BSR should be angled back at about 50°, so that the screws can be reached at any time (in case of repair); tack it to the hull using cyano-acrylate ('cyano'). Seal any gaps on the outside of the hull using adhesive tape (masking tape; not standard clear tape, as Stabilit / Acrylit sticks to this). Glue the BSR to the inside of the hull using Stabilit / Acrylit. Allow the glue to cure fully, then remove the tape and apply more glue round the tubes on the outside. Cut off the excess tube length and carefully sand back flush with the hull.

2721

19

2023

18 24 258

9

10

11

18

12 1314

22

15

1617

26

Cautiously place the framework in the hull, but don't glue it at this stage!The rear face of frame 13 (shown red) must lie flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake. Now glue the deck stringers 19 to the frames, ensuring that they fit fully into the slots; they must not make contact with the hull.Glue frame 16 to the stringers 18, and the foredeck girders 23 to frames 13 - 16.At a later stage the two stringers 18 can be used as a support for the receiver, speed controllers and other electronic units.

13

1

2

3

4

5

Remove the frames and stringers from the laser-cut sheets. Fit the frames 8 - 15 on one stringer 18, and hold them in place using spring clamps or strips of tape. Insert the second stringer 18 in the slots in the frames, then tack the stringers to the frames using cyano. Glue the battery plate 22 in the frames 12 - 15. Glue the two deck stringers 19 to the frames. The remaining joints are glued when the framework is fitted in the hull. Glue the support 27 between the main deck supports 21.Mark the height of the deck inside the hull, then glue the foredeck support 25 in the bow. Place the frame 17 in position. Lay the foredeck 64 in place and clamp it to the bulwark. Now stand the hull vertically on its bow. Position frame 17 carefully and glue it to the hull. Remove the deck, then glue the foredeck girders 24 in place.

SpecificationScale 1 : 32Height 675 mmWeight 14 kgBeam 308 mmLength 990 mmDraught 110 mm

Angle the deck supports 21 at a point 38 mm aft of frame 9, and glue them to the frames. Rub glue into the underside of the cracks.

21/20

19

9

18

Anchor hawse pocketsOpen up the hawse openings in the hull at the marked points. Glue the hawse pockets 6 together, then temporarily tape them in the openings.Slide the foredeck 64 into position in the hull, and tape it in place. Insert the chain hawse pipes 7 in the holes in the deck and the hawse pockets 6. Align the hawse pockets carefully before tacking them in the openings using cyano. Remove the deck and the pipes 7 again, and apply Stabilit / Acrylit round the hawse pockets. When the glue has set hard, sand back the excess material flush with the hull.

7 64

67.1

Bilge keelsMill out the slots for the bilge keels 28; these parts are symmetrical. Trim the slots in the hull to match the ABS parts.Fit the parts in the slots, and secure them with Stabilit / Acrylit applied on the inside. Use a spacer such as a coffee stirrer between the bilge keels and the hull to maintain the correct position. Fill any gaps on the outside with glue.

Power systemVarious types of power system can be installed; the basic shaft drive system is supplied in the kit. A separate chapter at the end of the instructions describes the installation of the optional Schottel drive system.

Shaft drive systemMark the position of the holes in the hull for the rudders and propeller shafts as shown in the drawing; it is best to use a setsquare for this. The dimensions for the shaft and shaft bracket openings refer to the point where the deadwood joins the hull. Measure all the dimensions along the surface of the hull.

Mark the position of the holes for the rudder bushes: 56 mm from the rear edge, and 69 mm from the centre. Drill the holes 5 mm Ø.

26

25

24

23

Assemble the parts of the motor mounts 29 and glue the joints.Apply sanding sealer or epoxy to the surfaces and allow to set hard. Screw the motors to the mounts.Various motors can be used. The mounting holes suit 600, 700 and 800 brushed motors, and brushless motors with a 25 mm hole spacing.

6

7

8

9

10

11

Saw a 2 mm wide lengthwise slot in the skeg tube 37. Glue together the skeg components 35 - 34 - 35, keeping the parts flush at the rear; this produces a channel at the front. Bend the brass rod 36 to the shape shown, and glue it to the skeg using Stabilit / Acrylit.Fit the shaft bracket 39 onto the stern tube, but do not glue it at this stage.

Fit the skeg tube 37 onto the stern tube, and glue the skeg in the channel using Stabilit / Acrylit. Drill a 4 mm Ø hole 3 mm deep in the top of the rear lug of each skeg.

41.1

42 44

41.240

Fit the propeller shaft through the hull and connect it to the motor using the shaft coupling. Fit the shaft bracket 39 through the hull. Insert the rudder in the hull, fitting the bottom end of the rudder blade into the skeg.Align the whole assembly so that the rudder is exactly vertical. Tape the assembly to the hull in this position. Now tack the rudder bush and the motor mount to the hull using a few drops of cyano.

Apply epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit all round the joint between the motor mount and the hull. Apply tape to the over-sized holes for the shafts and shaft brackets on the outside of the hull. The more accurately you do this, the easier it will be to clean up the glued joints afterwards.Glue the shaft brackets in place using Stabilit / Acrylit. The shafts can be glued using epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit.

Screw the tillers 30 on the rudder shafts. The rudder system can be operated using one or two servos.

24

29

19 19

Servo mount for shaft drive systemAssemble the servo mount as shown, and glue the joints.Apply sanding sealer to the assembly and allow to dry, then install the servos.Glue the servo mount centrally in the hull at a point about 125 mm from the stern, measured along the bottom of the hull.Once the servos are in place you can install the rudder pushrods, keepers and pushrod connectors.

46

4947

48

48

47

37

39

34-3536

Drill 4 mm

Roughen the rudder shaft with a file where it passes through the rudder blade. Glue together the rudder blade components 41 using Stabilit, sandwiching the shaft 41.1 between them; it should project at the bottom by about 4 mm.Drill a 4 mm hole in the rear of the skeg. Open up the hole in the hull to 5.0 mm Ø to accept the rudder bush.Fit the bush and a bush doubler 40 onto the rudder shaft, and check it for fit in the hull and the skeg from the underside. Apply Stabilit round the rudder bush on the inside of the hull, pressing the second bush doubler into the adhesive from the top. Allow the glue to set hard, then turn the hull over and glue the first bush doubler to the hull and the rudder bush.Lightly grease or oil the rudder shaft, and push the silicone tube half-way onto the bush and half-way onto the shaft to form a watertight seal. Bend the final 1 cm of the rudder pushrod 43 at 90°. Engage it in the tiller, and secure the end with the keeper 44.

41

41.1

12

13

14

15

16

Angle the deck supports 21 at a point 38 mm aft of frame 9, and glue them to the frames. Rub glue into the underside of the cracks.

21/20

19

9

18

Anchor hawse pocketsOpen up the hawse openings in the hull at the marked points. Glue the hawse pockets 6 together, then temporarily tape them in the openings.Slide the foredeck 64 into position in the hull, and tape it in place. Insert the chain hawse pipes 7 in the holes in the deck and the hawse pockets 6. Align the hawse pockets carefully before tacking them in the openings using cyano. Remove the deck and the pipes 7 again, and apply Stabilit / Acrylit round the hawse pockets. When the glue has set hard, sand back the excess material flush with the hull.

7 64

67.1

Bilge keelsMill out the slots for the bilge keels 28; these parts are symmetrical. Trim the slots in the hull to match the ABS parts.Fit the parts in the slots, and secure them with Stabilit / Acrylit applied on the inside. Use a spacer such as a coffee stirrer between the bilge keels and the hull to maintain the correct position. Fill any gaps on the outside with glue.

Power systemVarious types of power system can be installed; the basic shaft drive system is supplied in the kit. A separate chapter at the end of the instructions describes the installation of the optional Schottel drive system.

Shaft drive systemMark the position of the holes in the hull for the rudders and propeller shafts as shown in the drawing; it is best to use a setsquare for this. The dimensions for the shaft and shaft bracket openings refer to the point where the deadwood joins the hull. Measure all the dimensions along the surface of the hull.

Mark the position of the holes for the rudder bushes: 56 mm from the rear edge, and 69 mm from the centre. Drill the holes 5 mm Ø.

26

25

24

23

Assemble the parts of the motor mounts 29 and glue the joints.Apply sanding sealer or epoxy to the surfaces and allow to set hard. Screw the motors to the mounts.Various motors can be used. The mounting holes suit 600, 700 and 800 brushed motors, and brushless motors with a 25 mm hole spacing.

6

7

8

9

10

11

Saw a 2 mm wide lengthwise slot in the skeg tube 37. Glue together the skeg components 35 - 34 - 35, keeping the parts flush at the rear; this produces a channel at the front. Bend the brass rod 36 to the shape shown, and glue it to the skeg using Stabilit / Acrylit.Fit the shaft bracket 39 onto the stern tube, but do not glue it at this stage.

Fit the skeg tube 37 onto the stern tube, and glue the skeg in the channel using Stabilit / Acrylit. Drill a 4 mm Ø hole 3 mm deep in the top of the rear lug of each skeg.

41.1

42 44

41.240

Fit the propeller shaft through the hull and connect it to the motor using the shaft coupling. Fit the shaft bracket 39 through the hull. Insert the rudder in the hull, fitting the bottom end of the rudder blade into the skeg.Align the whole assembly so that the rudder is exactly vertical. Tape the assembly to the hull in this position. Now tack the rudder bush and the motor mount to the hull using a few drops of cyano.

Apply epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit all round the joint between the motor mount and the hull. Apply tape to the over-sized holes for the shafts and shaft brackets on the outside of the hull. The more accurately you do this, the easier it will be to clean up the glued joints afterwards.Glue the shaft brackets in place using Stabilit / Acrylit. The shafts can be glued using epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit.

Screw the tillers 30 on the rudder shafts. The rudder system can be operated using one or two servos.

24

29

19 19

Servo mount for shaft drive systemAssemble the servo mount as shown, and glue the joints.Apply sanding sealer to the assembly and allow to dry, then install the servos.Glue the servo mount centrally in the hull at a point about 125 mm from the stern, measured along the bottom of the hull.Once the servos are in place you can install the rudder pushrods, keepers and pushrod connectors.

46

4947

48

48

47

37

39

34-3536

Drill 4 mm

Roughen the rudder shaft with a file where it passes through the rudder blade. Glue together the rudder blade components 41 using Stabilit, sandwiching the shaft 41.1 between them; it should project at the bottom by about 4 mm.Drill a 4 mm hole in the rear of the skeg. Open up the hole in the hull to 5.0 mm Ø to accept the rudder bush.Fit the bush and a bush doubler 40 onto the rudder shaft, and check it for fit in the hull and the skeg from the underside. Apply Stabilit round the rudder bush on the inside of the hull, pressing the second bush doubler into the adhesive from the top. Allow the glue to set hard, then turn the hull over and glue the first bush doubler to the hull and the rudder bush.Lightly grease or oil the rudder shaft, and push the silicone tube half-way onto the bush and half-way onto the shaft to form a watertight seal. Bend the final 1 cm of the rudder pushrod 43 at 90°. Engage it in the tiller, and secure the end with the keeper 44.

41

41.1

12

13

14

15

16

Stern rollerThe parts of the stern roller should be glued together as shown in the drawing. Prepare the cradle by curving it over a table edge or cylindrical former. Glue parts 51 in the cradle, then glue the bearing plates 55 in the roller 54. If you wish, 4 x 8 mm ballraces can be fitted in the bearing support.The final step is to glue the bearing cover 53 on the end.Slip the shaft 56 through all the parts to check alignment, and leave it in place while the glued joints harden.

53

52

51

55

54

50

56

Remove a section 74 x 24 mm in size from the centre of the hull at the stern, as shown in the drawing, and glue the stern roller cradle in the opening using Stabilit or Acrylit. Cut back the bulge in the stern bulwark at an angle of about 24°.Round off the sides of the bulwark adjacent to the cradle.

Cut out the openings for the scuppers and cable hawses using a diamond cut-off disc.The top edge of the deck is the top edge of the fore-and-aft bulge on the hull.

Glue the main deck supports 57 and doublers 58 together on a flat surface. Don't glue the front and rear parts together.The outside edges must line up flush.Glue the deck supports 57 / 58 in the notches in the frames.Apply glue between the two parts, and tape the area where the supports are angled.

57 58

Main deckImportant: check that the scuppers are cut out as far as the peripheral rubbing strake. The correct scupper height is about 5 mm.Remove the main deck 59 and remove any rough edges on the rear face.Press the deck into the hull.Engage the front lugs in frame 13.Since the hull is hand-laminated, the wall thickness may vary slightly in the area where the hull meets the bulwark at the level of the peripheral rubbing strake.Sand smooth any irregularities in the hull, and trim the deck until it is a snug fit.The rear face of frame 13 must end flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake.

- If you have not installed the stern roller, the deck support 25 can now be glued in place.- If you have fitted the stern roller, the engraved area of the main deck 59 must first be removed.

Cut a few wedges from the spruce strip 61. Cut the spruce strip 60 into suitable lengths and fit them through the scuppers above the deck. Now use the wedges to press the deck down. This action presses the framework down onto the bottom of the hull, and the glued joints can now be completed. The sole purpose of the framework is to support and secure the deck, so there is no need to glue all the joints over their full length.

17

18

19

20

Steps 17 and 18 describe the installation of the stern roller. If you don't wish to install the system, please continue with Step 19.

spring clips

60

Wedges 61

59

64

Allow the glued joints to set hard, then remove the main deck and apply adhesive (Stabilit or Acrylit) to the top edge of the frames. Place the deck in position again, and secure it using the wedges and rulers or other long strips. Use spring clips to press the deck onto the deck supports as shown.Allow the glued joints to set hard, then place the foredeck 64 in position and check that its rear edge lines up flush with frame 13. You may need to carry out minor trimming to the front area of the deck to achieve this. Remove any irregularities on the inside of the GRP hull. Mark on the inside of the hull the height of the foredeck support 25, and glue it in place.Remove the foredeck again.Now glue the foredeck girders 24 to frame 16. Fit frame 17 in the hull under the deck girders, spaced about 84 mm from frame 16, then glue it in place with cyano. Apply Stabilit or Acrylit to the top edge of the frames. Place the foredeck in position and secure it as described before using rulers, wooden strips and wedges.It is important not to distort the rear end of the deck, otherwise the superstructure will not fit. The inside of the opening must end flush with the frames. Glue frame 17 in the hull.

Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove all the wedges and clamps.Fill any gaps between hull and deck with Stabilit or Acrylit, immediately wiping away any excess adhesive before it sets using a cloth or kitchen paper soaked in methylated spirit ('meths'). Check that the slots in the deck for the bulwark stanchions are not blocked with glue. If they are, immediately open them up with a pointed balsa strip.

The hawse pipes 7 can now be trimmed to fit and glued in place; glue them under the anchor winch 7.1. Lay the hull on one side and apply spray filler or filler / primer on the inside of the bulwark. Alternatively apply conventional filler paste and sand smooth when dry.The deckhouse coaming is fitted next, but not before the lower section of the deckhouse is built.

DeckhousePlace the base plate on a flat surface, and glue the individual sheet components to it following the sequence of the part numbers. Note that all the parts have tabs and slots which only fit one way round. Make the superstructure fillets 70 from the tube material: quarter the tubes lengthwise and trim them to fit.Repeat the procedure with the upper superstructure fillets 71.Parts 84 and 85 butt together at the top.Trim the upper superstructure fillets to fit as shown.Assemble the companionway 86; it will be glued to the angled wall 79, but only after the lower deckhouse has been painted.

73

7985

7566

7874

85 71

70

66

72

84

67

71

85

85 66

66

81

7776 69 68

83

65 82

86

21

22

23

24

Stern rollerThe parts of the stern roller should be glued together as shown in the drawing. Prepare the cradle by curving it over a table edge or cylindrical former. Glue parts 51 in the cradle, then glue the bearing plates 55 in the roller 54. If you wish, 4 x 8 mm ballraces can be fitted in the bearing support.The final step is to glue the bearing cover 53 on the end.Slip the shaft 56 through all the parts to check alignment, and leave it in place while the glued joints harden.

53

52

51

55

54

50

56

Remove a section 74 x 24 mm in size from the centre of the hull at the stern, as shown in the drawing, and glue the stern roller cradle in the opening using Stabilit or Acrylit. Cut back the bulge in the stern bulwark at an angle of about 24°.Round off the sides of the bulwark adjacent to the cradle.

Cut out the openings for the scuppers and cable hawses using a diamond cut-off disc.The top edge of the deck is the top edge of the fore-and-aft bulge on the hull.

Glue the main deck supports 57 and doublers 58 together on a flat surface. Don't glue the front and rear parts together.The outside edges must line up flush.Glue the deck supports 57 / 58 in the notches in the frames.Apply glue between the two parts, and tape the area where the supports are angled.

57 58

Main deckImportant: check that the scuppers are cut out as far as the peripheral rubbing strake. The correct scupper height is about 5 mm.Remove the main deck 59 and remove any rough edges on the rear face.Press the deck into the hull.Engage the front lugs in frame 13.Since the hull is hand-laminated, the wall thickness may vary slightly in the area where the hull meets the bulwark at the level of the peripheral rubbing strake.Sand smooth any irregularities in the hull, and trim the deck until it is a snug fit.The rear face of frame 13 must end flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake.

- If you have not installed the stern roller, the deck support 25 can now be glued in place.- If you have fitted the stern roller, the engraved area of the main deck 59 must first be removed.

Cut a few wedges from the spruce strip 61. Cut the spruce strip 60 into suitable lengths and fit them through the scuppers above the deck. Now use the wedges to press the deck down. This action presses the framework down onto the bottom of the hull, and the glued joints can now be completed. The sole purpose of the framework is to support and secure the deck, so there is no need to glue all the joints over their full length.

17

18

19

20

Steps 17 and 18 describe the installation of the stern roller. If you don't wish to install the system, please continue with Step 19.

spring clips

60

Wedges 61

59

64

Allow the glued joints to set hard, then remove the main deck and apply adhesive (Stabilit or Acrylit) to the top edge of the frames. Place the deck in position again, and secure it using the wedges and rulers or other long strips. Use spring clips to press the deck onto the deck supports as shown.Allow the glued joints to set hard, then place the foredeck 64 in position and check that its rear edge lines up flush with frame 13. You may need to carry out minor trimming to the front area of the deck to achieve this. Remove any irregularities on the inside of the GRP hull. Mark on the inside of the hull the height of the foredeck support 25, and glue it in place.Remove the foredeck again.Now glue the foredeck girders 24 to frame 16. Fit frame 17 in the hull under the deck girders, spaced about 84 mm from frame 16, then glue it in place with cyano. Apply Stabilit or Acrylit to the top edge of the frames. Place the foredeck in position and secure it as described before using rulers, wooden strips and wedges.It is important not to distort the rear end of the deck, otherwise the superstructure will not fit. The inside of the opening must end flush with the frames. Glue frame 17 in the hull.

Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove all the wedges and clamps.Fill any gaps between hull and deck with Stabilit or Acrylit, immediately wiping away any excess adhesive before it sets using a cloth or kitchen paper soaked in methylated spirit ('meths'). Check that the slots in the deck for the bulwark stanchions are not blocked with glue. If they are, immediately open them up with a pointed balsa strip.

The hawse pipes 7 can now be trimmed to fit and glued in place; glue them under the anchor winch 7.1. Lay the hull on one side and apply spray filler or filler / primer on the inside of the bulwark. Alternatively apply conventional filler paste and sand smooth when dry.The deckhouse coaming is fitted next, but not before the lower section of the deckhouse is built.

DeckhousePlace the base plate on a flat surface, and glue the individual sheet components to it following the sequence of the part numbers. Note that all the parts have tabs and slots which only fit one way round. Make the superstructure fillets 70 from the tube material: quarter the tubes lengthwise and trim them to fit.Repeat the procedure with the upper superstructure fillets 71.Parts 84 and 85 butt together at the top.Trim the upper superstructure fillets to fit as shown.Assemble the companionway 86; it will be glued to the angled wall 79, but only after the lower deckhouse has been painted.

73

7985

7566

7874

85 71

70

66

72

84

67

71

85

85 66

66

81

7776 69 68

83

65 82

86

21

22

23

24

The deckhouse is now used as an aid in installing the coaming in the foredeck.

Separate the coaming 87 and remove any rough edges.Place the coaming on the foredeck girder 23, press it against the foredeck and secure it with a strip of tape. Push the coaming into the corner with a piece of dowel of around 10 mm Ø, and bend the radius to fit snugly. Secure it with adhesive tape, then bend the other corner in the same way. The coaming should now be an accurate fit in the deck opening.Remove the adhesive tape.

Adhesive tape

Dowel

87

Apply a strip of tape all round the bottom of the deckhouse; this protects it, and also simulates the thickness of a coat of paint. Fit the deckhouse into the coaming 87; this action presses it against the deck.The coaming is glued to the deck using UHU Plast Spezial, whose narrow nozzle is used to apply the adhesive accurately in the joint line between foredeck and coaming.Leave the deckhouse in place until the glue has set hard.

Adhesive tape

87

Bulwark stanchionsThe bulwark stanchions have to be trimmed to fit individually. The numbering of the etched parts starts in the centre of the foredeck with No. 1, and increments towards the stern. The bulwark stanchion numbers are marked on the drawing in red. They are not stated individually in the Parts List; all of them are grouped together as Part 88.The bulwark stanchions are the same right and left, i.e. opposite stanchions bear the same number.Separate only the stanchion you are currently working on. If you have fitted a stern roller, then the stern bulwark stanchions must be trimmed to suit.If your trimming of the deck has moved the slots out of position, it is possible to re-position them by heating the etched parts lightly and pressing them into the deck.Be sure to use pliers to hold and insert the stanchions.The bulwark stanchions must end flush with the top of the hull. You may need to adjust their height slightly depending on the actual position of the deck.

16

15

10

15

25

26

27

15

3330

20

2593

Insert the supports 91 in the foredeck. Separate the bulwark reinforcement 90 and the bow reinforcement 89. Fit the bow reinforcement 89 on the supports 91. Cut the two bollard tubes 94 to length and fit them through the bow reinforcement and into the deck to aid alignment. The centre part of the reinforcement 90 can now be fitted; it should project by about 1 mm, and the bollard tubes should stand vertical.Glue the bow reinforcement 89 and the bulwark reinforcement 90 in place.

Starting at the forward step, tack the rear handrail 93 to the bulwark with a few drops of cyano, working towards the stern.The handrail should overhang by about 1 mm on the outside. Lay a wide strip of similar thickness on both sides of the bulwark to ensure that the handrail is level and central.When one side is finished, lay the hull on its side and run cyano along the joint to strengthen it.Repeat the procedure with the other side.Glue the forward handrail to the bulwark starting at the step and working forward. Trim the two angled handrails 90.1 to fit between the handrail 92 and the bulwark reinforcement 90.

Assemble six bollards as shown in the drawing alongside.Door portholes can also be used as spare bollard caps, as their diameter is the same.Drill a 5.0 mm Ø hole in one end of the tubes 94, and glue the cross-pieces 98 in them. Insert them in the base plate 96 - without glue - to check alignment.Do not glue the base plate yet, as it has to be trimmed to match the angle of the deck surface.Allow the bollards to dry, then fit them in the appropriate holes in the deck. Adjust the holes in the base plates if necessary, align the bollards carefully and glue them to the tubes. Don't glue the bollards to the deck until they have been painted.

95

98

97

96

28

29

1

91 94 9090.1

89

92

The deckhouse is now used as an aid in installing the coaming in the foredeck.

Separate the coaming 87 and remove any rough edges.Place the coaming on the foredeck girder 23, press it against the foredeck and secure it with a strip of tape. Push the coaming into the corner with a piece of dowel of around 10 mm Ø, and bend the radius to fit snugly. Secure it with adhesive tape, then bend the other corner in the same way. The coaming should now be an accurate fit in the deck opening.Remove the adhesive tape.

Adhesive tape

Dowel

87

Apply a strip of tape all round the bottom of the deckhouse; this protects it, and also simulates the thickness of a coat of paint. Fit the deckhouse into the coaming 87; this action presses it against the deck.The coaming is glued to the deck using UHU Plast Spezial, whose narrow nozzle is used to apply the adhesive accurately in the joint line between foredeck and coaming.Leave the deckhouse in place until the glue has set hard.

Adhesive tape

87

Bulwark stanchionsThe bulwark stanchions have to be trimmed to fit individually. The numbering of the etched parts starts in the centre of the foredeck with No. 1, and increments towards the stern. The bulwark stanchion numbers are marked on the drawing in red. They are not stated individually in the Parts List; all of them are grouped together as Part 88.The bulwark stanchions are the same right and left, i.e. opposite stanchions bear the same number.Separate only the stanchion you are currently working on. If you have fitted a stern roller, then the stern bulwark stanchions must be trimmed to suit.If your trimming of the deck has moved the slots out of position, it is possible to re-position them by heating the etched parts lightly and pressing them into the deck.Be sure to use pliers to hold and insert the stanchions.The bulwark stanchions must end flush with the top of the hull. You may need to adjust their height slightly depending on the actual position of the deck.

16

15

10

15

25

26

27

15

3330

20

2593

Insert the supports 91 in the foredeck. Separate the bulwark reinforcement 90 and the bow reinforcement 89. Fit the bow reinforcement 89 on the supports 91. Cut the two bollard tubes 94 to length and fit them through the bow reinforcement and into the deck to aid alignment. The centre part of the reinforcement 90 can now be fitted; it should project by about 1 mm, and the bollard tubes should stand vertical.Glue the bow reinforcement 89 and the bulwark reinforcement 90 in place.

Starting at the forward step, tack the rear handrail 93 to the bulwark with a few drops of cyano, working towards the stern.The handrail should overhang by about 1 mm on the outside. Lay a wide strip of similar thickness on both sides of the bulwark to ensure that the handrail is level and central.When one side is finished, lay the hull on its side and run cyano along the joint to strengthen it.Repeat the procedure with the other side.Glue the forward handrail to the bulwark starting at the step and working forward. Trim the two angled handrails 90.1 to fit between the handrail 92 and the bulwark reinforcement 90.

Assemble six bollards as shown in the drawing alongside.Door portholes can also be used as spare bollard caps, as their diameter is the same.Drill a 5.0 mm Ø hole in one end of the tubes 94, and glue the cross-pieces 98 in them. Insert them in the base plate 96 - without glue - to check alignment.Do not glue the base plate yet, as it has to be trimmed to match the angle of the deck surface.Allow the bollards to dry, then fit them in the appropriate holes in the deck. Adjust the holes in the base plates if necessary, align the bollards carefully and glue them to the tubes. Don't glue the bollards to the deck until they have been painted.

95

98

97

96

28

29

1

91 94 9090.1

89

92

Assemble the foredeck emergency exit by gluing together parts 99 - 103.Two switches with 6 mm shafts can be installed in the floor 99, e.g. for activating the model batteries.

Glue the hinge components 104 to the cover 105. Bend the handle 106 to the shape shown, and glue it in place. Connect the cover to the housing using the hinge pin 107.

106

105104

102100

101

100107

103

At this stage the hull and deck can be painted. Place the model in its stand in the position shown in the drawing, and mark the Construction Water Line (CWL) all round the hull. Mask off the threaded part of the propeller shafts. The model can now be painted in the colour scheme of your choice. Glue the bollards and the exit hatch on the foredeck.

DeckhouseLeave the window blanks in the sheet panels for the moment; this eliminates the tedious task of masking off the inside and outside when painting.

Do not remove the small tabs in the windows, as they serve as spacers when fitting the glazing panels later.

118

95 112

113

114

117

116

115

113

121

110 (111)

109

108

120

30

31

32

Complete the connecting wall 108 by fitting the doors 109. Glue this assembly in the wall 82.Complete the rear superstructure wall 110 with the doors 111, and glue it to the floor 65 and the wall 108. The outer wall 113 of the exhaust pillar fits in the same slot from the rear.Tape the outer walls 113 and 116 of the exhaust pillar, and angle them slightly. Glue them to part 110.Fit the rear wall 114, and glue the doors 115 at the bottom.Insert the lower wall 116 and the glazed wall 117 between the walls of the exhaust pillars.Tape parts 116 and 117 together, and glue these two walls to the floor 65 from the inside.

Tape together parts 114 and 117, and glue the joint on the inside. Remove the tape when the glue has set hard, and seal the narrow gap on the outside with UHU Plast Spezial. The small nozzle of the adhesive bottle helps to keep the glue in the correct place.Fit part 119 (servo mount) in part 113. Insert the outer wall 120 and the companionway support 121, then glue all the joints.

112114

113

11965

108111

110

82

109

Assemble the fire-fighting bridge from parts 128 - 131 as shown in the drawing alongside.

Glue the bridge to the exhaust pillars.

The superstructure can now be painted. 130129

131

128

Assemble the four cylinders from parts 126 / 127 as shown in the drawing.

127 126

Glue the frames 123 to the exhaust pillars.Glue the lugs 125 to the covers 124.Drill 1 mm Ø holes in the pillars for the wires 127, adjacent to the frame.When the cylinders are complete, the covers can be glued to the pillars.If you wish to paint the grilles 208, do this before installing them.

125

124

127

123

208

126

33

34

35

36

Assemble the foredeck emergency exit by gluing together parts 99 - 103.Two switches with 6 mm shafts can be installed in the floor 99, e.g. for activating the model batteries.

Glue the hinge components 104 to the cover 105. Bend the handle 106 to the shape shown, and glue it in place. Connect the cover to the housing using the hinge pin 107.

106

105104

102100

101

100107

103

At this stage the hull and deck can be painted. Place the model in its stand in the position shown in the drawing, and mark the Construction Water Line (CWL) all round the hull. Mask off the threaded part of the propeller shafts. The model can now be painted in the colour scheme of your choice. Glue the bollards and the exit hatch on the foredeck.

DeckhouseLeave the window blanks in the sheet panels for the moment; this eliminates the tedious task of masking off the inside and outside when painting.

Do not remove the small tabs in the windows, as they serve as spacers when fitting the glazing panels later.

118

95 112

113

114

117

116

115

113

121

110 (111)

109

108

120

30

31

32

Complete the connecting wall 108 by fitting the doors 109. Glue this assembly in the wall 82.Complete the rear superstructure wall 110 with the doors 111, and glue it to the floor 65 and the wall 108. The outer wall 113 of the exhaust pillar fits in the same slot from the rear.Tape the outer walls 113 and 116 of the exhaust pillar, and angle them slightly. Glue them to part 110.Fit the rear wall 114, and glue the doors 115 at the bottom.Insert the lower wall 116 and the glazed wall 117 between the walls of the exhaust pillars.Tape parts 116 and 117 together, and glue these two walls to the floor 65 from the inside.

Tape together parts 114 and 117, and glue the joint on the inside. Remove the tape when the glue has set hard, and seal the narrow gap on the outside with UHU Plast Spezial. The small nozzle of the adhesive bottle helps to keep the glue in the correct place.Fit part 119 (servo mount) in part 113. Insert the outer wall 120 and the companionway support 121, then glue all the joints.

112114

113

11965

108111

110

82

109

Assemble the fire-fighting bridge from parts 128 - 131 as shown in the drawing alongside.

Glue the bridge to the exhaust pillars.

The superstructure can now be painted. 130129

131

128

Assemble the four cylinders from parts 126 / 127 as shown in the drawing.

127 126

Glue the frames 123 to the exhaust pillars.Glue the lugs 125 to the covers 124.Drill 1 mm Ø holes in the pillars for the wires 127, adjacent to the frame.When the cylinders are complete, the covers can be glued to the pillars.If you wish to paint the grilles 208, do this before installing them.

125

124

127

123

208

126

33

34

35

36

Recess

Divide the two exhaust pipes 132 and 133 centrally at an angle of 45°, and glue them in the rear face of the exhaust pillars.

The two servos required for rotating the fire monitors can now be screwed to the underside of the servo mounts 119.

132

133

134

119

Fire monitorsPlease take care to follow the sequence of the illustrations when assembling the monitors.

Clean all the parts with warm soapy water and a brush to remove any excess material, as it could come loose later and block the monitors when they are operating.

Cut a slot about 3 - 4 mm deep on one side of the 3.0 mm brass tube (2) at the top. Fit the tube in the bottom section (1); it should project at the top by about 1 mm.

Glue together the top and bottom sections (1 + 3); thick cyano is the best adhesive to use for these joints.

Thread the column (4) onto the 3 mm tube and glue the parts together.Push the 4.0 mm tube (5) into the bottom of the column (4) as far as it will go, and glue the joint. Glue the spindle bridge (7) to the top section (3), and glue the handwheel (8) to the spigot.Fit the base (6) as shown, taking care not to glue it to the monitor column or the tube, as it acts as the pivot bearing.

Glue together the jet nozzle and the spray nozzle.

The diameter of the front holes in the spray nozzle is 0.6 mm. You may need to drill them out.

Glue the nozzle you wish to use in the main monitor body.

When painting the monitors take care to prevent paint blocking the holes.

1

2

37

8

4

6

5

1

2 3

37

38

39

Installing the glazing panelsDon't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).Place the panel in position centrally, leaving a recess all round; apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.

From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from smearing. The inner film can be peeled off when the glue is dry.Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some time after drying.Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.

The windows in the side walls 66 do not have etched frames; only the forward windows in part 67 have frames.

109

4

10 9

6

4 1

2

8

75

3

1 Bottom section2 Brass tube, 3.0 / 2.1 x 12 mm3 Top section4 Monitor column5 Brass tube, 4.0 / 3.1 x 100 mm6 Base7 Spindle bridge8 Handwheel, laser-cut9 Jet nozzle10 Spray nozzle

A good method of swivelling the monitors is to fit pulleys on the brass tube and drive them from a servo using rubber bands. In this case the hole in the servo mount should be fitted with a plain bush or ballrace. The fire monitor drive components are not included in the kit.The pump can be installed aft of the battery support 22 on the bottom of the hull. The intake nipple (tube Ø to suit your pump) should be glued aft of the pump on the centreline of the hull, projecting by 1 mm on the outside. Glue it in place on both sides of the hull.

Superstructure deckLay scrap pieces of 1.5 mm ABS sheet under the superstructure deck 138 to act as spacers.Glue the base rails 139 to the edges of the deck; four separate parts are required on each side. The mitred joints must be trimmed individually. Add the forward base rail, followed by the rear rail. The latter must not project at the sides, since it has to fit between the exhaust pillars.

140

139138

Steel strip

Magnet

One option for making the deck detachable is to secure it with magnets; these are not included in the kit. The retaining magnets do not need to be excessively strong.

Glue the magnet supports 140 in the corners of the superstructure to suit the thickness of the magnets you wish to use. When fitting the magnets check that they do not block the openings for the railing stanchions. Glue the magnets in place. A piece of tinplate from a tin can is all you need on the opposite face.Lay the strip of metal on the magnet and apply adhesive to the exposed surface. Lay the deck on top and allow the glue to set hard.The superstructure deck can now be painted.

40

41

42

Recess

Divide the two exhaust pipes 132 and 133 centrally at an angle of 45°, and glue them in the rear face of the exhaust pillars.

The two servos required for rotating the fire monitors can now be screwed to the underside of the servo mounts 119.

132

133

134

119

Fire monitorsPlease take care to follow the sequence of the illustrations when assembling the monitors.

Clean all the parts with warm soapy water and a brush to remove any excess material, as it could come loose later and block the monitors when they are operating.

Cut a slot about 3 - 4 mm deep on one side of the 3.0 mm brass tube (2) at the top. Fit the tube in the bottom section (1); it should project at the top by about 1 mm.

Glue together the top and bottom sections (1 + 3); thick cyano is the best adhesive to use for these joints.

Thread the column (4) onto the 3 mm tube and glue the parts together.Push the 4.0 mm tube (5) into the bottom of the column (4) as far as it will go, and glue the joint. Glue the spindle bridge (7) to the top section (3), and glue the handwheel (8) to the spigot.Fit the base (6) as shown, taking care not to glue it to the monitor column or the tube, as it acts as the pivot bearing.

Glue together the jet nozzle and the spray nozzle.

The diameter of the front holes in the spray nozzle is 0.6 mm. You may need to drill them out.

Glue the nozzle you wish to use in the main monitor body.

When painting the monitors take care to prevent paint blocking the holes.

1

2

37

8

4

6

5

1

2 3

37

38

39

Installing the glazing panelsDon't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).Place the panel in position centrally, leaving a recess all round; apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.

From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from smearing. The inner film can be peeled off when the glue is dry.Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some time after drying.Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.

The windows in the side walls 66 do not have etched frames; only the forward windows in part 67 have frames.

109

4

10 9

6

4 1

2

8

75

3

1 Bottom section2 Brass tube, 3.0 / 2.1 x 12 mm3 Top section4 Monitor column5 Brass tube, 4.0 / 3.1 x 100 mm6 Base7 Spindle bridge8 Handwheel, laser-cut9 Jet nozzle10 Spray nozzle

A good method of swivelling the monitors is to fit pulleys on the brass tube and drive them from a servo using rubber bands. In this case the hole in the servo mount should be fitted with a plain bush or ballrace. The fire monitor drive components are not included in the kit.The pump can be installed aft of the battery support 22 on the bottom of the hull. The intake nipple (tube Ø to suit your pump) should be glued aft of the pump on the centreline of the hull, projecting by 1 mm on the outside. Glue it in place on both sides of the hull.

Superstructure deckLay scrap pieces of 1.5 mm ABS sheet under the superstructure deck 138 to act as spacers.Glue the base rails 139 to the edges of the deck; four separate parts are required on each side. The mitred joints must be trimmed individually. Add the forward base rail, followed by the rear rail. The latter must not project at the sides, since it has to fit between the exhaust pillars.

140

139138

Steel strip

Magnet

One option for making the deck detachable is to secure it with magnets; these are not included in the kit. The retaining magnets do not need to be excessively strong.

Glue the magnet supports 140 in the corners of the superstructure to suit the thickness of the magnets you wish to use. When fitting the magnets check that they do not block the openings for the railing stanchions. Glue the magnets in place. A piece of tinplate from a tin can is all you need on the opposite face.Lay the strip of metal on the magnet and apply adhesive to the exposed surface. Lay the deck on top and allow the glue to set hard.The superstructure deck can now be painted.

40

41

42

WheelhouseSeparate the lower mounting frame 141. Separate the lower wheelhouse walls by removing the tabs at the joint positions. Tape the parts together and insert them in the mounting frame before gluing the joints on the inside.The floor 150 can be inserted to stiffen the structure, but do not glue it to the walls at this stage.Tape the window frames 146 - 149 together, and insert them in the upper mounting frame 151; glue the joints on the inside. Remove the tape over the joints, and apply more glue on the outside of both assemblies.

141

142145

142143

142144

150 142

143

149 146

149147

148

149

146

145

The interior fittings can now be glued to the floor 150. We recommend that you do not glue these parts to the walls at this stage, as this makes subsequent painting easier, since the floor complete with fittings can still be removed. The struts 153 and 165 are glued vertically to the centre console 155, and the centre panel 164 to the underside of the control desks.

162

163

164163

150

144

152

142143

145

161160

157

154

154

152142

156155

159

157145

161

144

Remove the base plate complete with fittings before continuing work on the wheelhouse. The insert can now be painted, and the control desk completed with the etched parts.

Tape the upper panels of the window frames 146 - 149 together as already described, and insert them in the mounting frame 151. Glue the joints on the inside.

Fit the roof 166 in the roof opening together with the navigation lamp supports, followed by the supports for the side ladders.You may need to chamfer the upper edges of the roof to allow it to be fitted horizontally.Glue the roof in place from the inside.Glue the lamp brackets 167 in place.

151

149

146

166

147149

146

149148149

167

Bevel

Joining the lower and centre sections.Bevel the inside of the lower mounting frame 141 at an angle of about 13° over half the material thickness.Tape the upper and lower sections together on the outside. Slide the frame over the joint line, and glue the parts together on the inside.You can stiffen the structure by adjusting the position of the floor.

43

44

45

46

170 168

169

171

141

Any remaining gaps can now be made good using polyester filler paste. Paint the wheelhouse inside and out.

Installing the glazing panelsDon't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).Place the panel in position centrally, and leave the glue to dry for about ten minutes.Apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.

From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from smearing. Peel off the inner film when the glue is dry.

RecessNote regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some time after drying.Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.

Complete all the doors with the appropriate latches or turnbuckles 172.

47

48

49

50

51

When all the glued joints have dried fully, the door frame components 168 and 169 can be glued in the wheelhouse. Glue the wall 170 to the frame and the lower wall from the inside. Glue the door 171 in the door opening. Tape together the lower part of the wheelhouse and the roof section. Slide the upper mounting frame over the joint line, and glue the joints on the inside. Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove the mounting frame and peel off the tape.

Fill any gaps on the outside of the structure with adhesive. Leave the glue to dry and repeat the process if necessary. Sand the joint areas with a file or a foam sanding block using a circular motion; this method produces sharp corners.

WheelhouseSeparate the lower mounting frame 141. Separate the lower wheelhouse walls by removing the tabs at the joint positions. Tape the parts together and insert them in the mounting frame before gluing the joints on the inside.The floor 150 can be inserted to stiffen the structure, but do not glue it to the walls at this stage.Tape the window frames 146 - 149 together, and insert them in the upper mounting frame 151; glue the joints on the inside. Remove the tape over the joints, and apply more glue on the outside of both assemblies.

141

142145

142143

142144

150 142

143

149 146

149147

148

149

146

145

The interior fittings can now be glued to the floor 150. We recommend that you do not glue these parts to the walls at this stage, as this makes subsequent painting easier, since the floor complete with fittings can still be removed. The struts 153 and 165 are glued vertically to the centre console 155, and the centre panel 164 to the underside of the control desks.

162

163

164163

150

144

152

142143

145

161160

157

154

154

152142

156155

159

157145

161

144

Remove the base plate complete with fittings before continuing work on the wheelhouse. The insert can now be painted, and the control desk completed with the etched parts.

Tape the upper panels of the window frames 146 - 149 together as already described, and insert them in the mounting frame 151. Glue the joints on the inside.

Fit the roof 166 in the roof opening together with the navigation lamp supports, followed by the supports for the side ladders.You may need to chamfer the upper edges of the roof to allow it to be fitted horizontally.Glue the roof in place from the inside.Glue the lamp brackets 167 in place.

151

149

146

166

147149

146

149148149

167

Bevel

Joining the lower and centre sections.Bevel the inside of the lower mounting frame 141 at an angle of about 13° over half the material thickness.Tape the upper and lower sections together on the outside. Slide the frame over the joint line, and glue the parts together on the inside.You can stiffen the structure by adjusting the position of the floor.

43

44

45

46

170 168

169

171

141

Any remaining gaps can now be made good using polyester filler paste. Paint the wheelhouse inside and out.

Installing the glazing panelsDon't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).Place the panel in position centrally, and leave the glue to dry for about ten minutes.Apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.

From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from smearing. Peel off the inner film when the glue is dry.

RecessNote regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some time after drying.Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.

Complete all the doors with the appropriate latches or turnbuckles 172.

47

48

49

50

51

When all the glued joints have dried fully, the door frame components 168 and 169 can be glued in the wheelhouse. Glue the wall 170 to the frame and the lower wall from the inside. Glue the door 171 in the door opening. Tape together the lower part of the wheelhouse and the roof section. Slide the upper mounting frame over the joint line, and glue the joints on the inside. Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove the mounting frame and peel off the tape.

Fill any gaps on the outside of the structure with adhesive. Leave the glue to dry and repeat the process if necessary. Sand the joint areas with a file or a foam sanding block using a circular motion; this method produces sharp corners.

MastAssemble the mast base as shown in the drawing at the bottom.Part 174 (left) is not shown in the interests of clarity.Glue parts 178 to the tubular mast.Fit the piston 181 through the cylinder 180, and glue parts 182 and 183 to the ends as shown.We recommend that you paint all these parts before gluing them to the roof.

175

178

174

179

182181

180

183

177

176

173

On the full-size vessels the mast is usually lowered only to replace a lamp or repair an aerial.Drill a 3.0 mm hole through the mast 184 for the shaft 179.Drill 2.0 mm holes through the mast for the aerial bracket 187 and the flag holder 190.Slip the lamp brackets onto the mast and glue them in place. Glue the gussets to the mast and the underside of the lamp brackets.Holes for the lamp cables can be drilled below the brackets.Thread the cables into the mast under part 176 and down through the cable tube into the superstructure.

The lamp housings are assembled as shown in the drawing alongside.The housings are designed to accept 3 mm LEDs.

Ankerlanterne (weiss) Anchor lamp (white)Toplanterne (weiss) Masthead lamp (white)Schlepplanterne (weiss) Towing lamp (white)Rundumlanterne (rot) Panoramic lamp (red)

192

193

191

193

191

The mast can now be painted, then fitted with the LEDs and lamp housings.Mount the mast and base. Glue the raising cylinder brackets 178 to the mast. The whole assembly can now be glued to the roof.Assemble the radar units and paint them.We recommend that the radar units should only be installed when the railings have been completed.

198

196

194

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195

198

52

53

54

SolderingIt is important to use an iron of adequate rating for soldering the railings. We recommend at least a 48 W tool. A high temperature should also be set in order to avoid overheating the parts. This approach delivers a large quantity of heat at the joint position in the shortest time, and helps the solder to flow well.A good means of protecting the deck is to lay a double layer of kitchen cloth on the surface, and insert the railing stanchions through it. Dampen the cloth well before soldering. This protects the painted plastic surfaces from heat and solder splashes.

CompanionwaysThe strings (side parts) and treads are supplied as one-piece etched components.The flanges for the railing stanchions are also part of these components.Be sure to bend the parts in the direction of the etched-in grooves, as this prevents them breaking.

Bend the strings over at 90°, then bend the stanchion flanges down at 90°. Since the handrail and lower rail pass through the stanchions at an angle, the holes in these stanchions (203) are oval in shape. These stanchions are located in the etched parts sheet inside the window frames.

The companionway handrails and lower rails are cut from 0.8 mm Ø brass rod.

201

202

199

203

205

205

207 206

Towing lightStern light

203

199

204

Bend the two companionways 199 to shape, and insert the railing stanchions 203. Solder the stanchions and the bend lines on the underside. Bend the treads to the horizontal position. Position the companionways as close to the side of the hull as possible, otherwise they may break off when the superstructure is raised. Glue the companionways in place with small amounts of cyano.Assemble the long companionway running to the superstructure deck in the manner already described, inserting the handrail and lower rail in the exhaust pillar. Glue them to the companionway support. The companionway should not rest on part 121; the soldered joint between the handrails, the lower rails and the railing is quite strong enough.

55

56

57

MastAssemble the mast base as shown in the drawing at the bottom.Part 174 (left) is not shown in the interests of clarity.Glue parts 178 to the tubular mast.Fit the piston 181 through the cylinder 180, and glue parts 182 and 183 to the ends as shown.We recommend that you paint all these parts before gluing them to the roof.

175

178

174

179

182181

180

183

177

176

173

On the full-size vessels the mast is usually lowered only to replace a lamp or repair an aerial.Drill a 3.0 mm hole through the mast 184 for the shaft 179.Drill 2.0 mm holes through the mast for the aerial bracket 187 and the flag holder 190.Slip the lamp brackets onto the mast and glue them in place. Glue the gussets to the mast and the underside of the lamp brackets.Holes for the lamp cables can be drilled below the brackets.Thread the cables into the mast under part 176 and down through the cable tube into the superstructure.

The lamp housings are assembled as shown in the drawing alongside.The housings are designed to accept 3 mm LEDs.

Ankerlanterne (weiss) Anchor lamp (white)Toplanterne (weiss) Masthead lamp (white)Schlepplanterne (weiss) Towing lamp (white)Rundumlanterne (rot) Panoramic lamp (red)

192

193

191

193

191

The mast can now be painted, then fitted with the LEDs and lamp housings.Mount the mast and base. Glue the raising cylinder brackets 178 to the mast. The whole assembly can now be glued to the roof.Assemble the radar units and paint them.We recommend that the radar units should only be installed when the railings have been completed.

198

196

194

196

195

198

52

53

54

SolderingIt is important to use an iron of adequate rating for soldering the railings. We recommend at least a 48 W tool. A high temperature should also be set in order to avoid overheating the parts. This approach delivers a large quantity of heat at the joint position in the shortest time, and helps the solder to flow well.A good means of protecting the deck is to lay a double layer of kitchen cloth on the surface, and insert the railing stanchions through it. Dampen the cloth well before soldering. This protects the painted plastic surfaces from heat and solder splashes.

CompanionwaysThe strings (side parts) and treads are supplied as one-piece etched components.The flanges for the railing stanchions are also part of these components.Be sure to bend the parts in the direction of the etched-in grooves, as this prevents them breaking.

Bend the strings over at 90°, then bend the stanchion flanges down at 90°. Since the handrail and lower rail pass through the stanchions at an angle, the holes in these stanchions (203) are oval in shape. These stanchions are located in the etched parts sheet inside the window frames.

The companionway handrails and lower rails are cut from 0.8 mm Ø brass rod.

201

202

199

203

205

205

207 206

Towing lightStern light

203

199

204

Bend the two companionways 199 to shape, and insert the railing stanchions 203. Solder the stanchions and the bend lines on the underside. Bend the treads to the horizontal position. Position the companionways as close to the side of the hull as possible, otherwise they may break off when the superstructure is raised. Glue the companionways in place with small amounts of cyano.Assemble the long companionway running to the superstructure deck in the manner already described, inserting the handrail and lower rail in the exhaust pillar. Glue them to the companionway support. The companionway should not rest on part 121; the soldered joint between the handrails, the lower rails and the railing is quite strong enough.

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56

57

The superstructure railingRailing between the exhaust pillars:Thread five railing stanchions onto the handrail and lower rail, and insert them in the deck. You can either glue these parts together using cyano, or solder the joints.Paint the railing and glue it in the deck.The lamp bracket for the stern and towing lights is made from parts 209 - 211.

Forward superstructure railing:Bend the wires using a screwdriver or dowel of about 3 - 4 mm Ø; this maintains a constant radius.

Start by bending the nine treads 212. Paint them and glue them in the walls 67 and 84.

Side superstructure railingsThe wheelhouse itself is not shown here.The handrails should be 500 mm long.Form the first two or three bends in the rods along the inside of the footrail.Thread twelve stanchions onto the lower rails and the handrail.Start the assembly process at the rear.Leave the rods projecting by about 25 mm aft of the last railing stanchion.

Approx. 25 mm projection

Die hinteren 6-7 Relingstützen in das Deck stecken. Über den Handlauf am Aufbau mit Klebestreifen sichern. Richten Sie zwei Relingstützen aus und löten oder kleben Sie den Handlauf fest. Die Durchzüge ausrichten und löten/kleben. Löten Sie so alle Relingstützen bis vor die nächste Biegung. Die bis dahin fertige Reling mit Klebestreifen am Aufbau sichern und die Drähte weiter biegen. Relingstützen weiter anlöten, wieder bis zur nächsten Biegung. Vorn den Handlauf nach unten biegen und in die vorgesehenen Löcher im Aufbau stecken.Die Durchzüge parallel nach unten biegen und am Handlauf anlöten.Verfahren Sie ebenso mit der anderen Seite.

Wheelhouse companionway and railingStart by assembling the companionway between the wheelhouse roof and the monitor platform; solder all the joints, then bend the flanges down at 90°. The oval holes must be enlarged to 1 mm.Solder the railing stanchions 203 in place.Tape the companionway to the underside of the platform and the roof. You may need to cut slots in the edge of the roof for the companionway strings.

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61

The next step is to assemble the monitor platform railing.Left-hand side:Thread the handrail and the upper middle rail through the companionway stanchions. Insert the first stanchion in the platform, and bend the handrail and the lower rail so that they fit in the holes in the stanchion.Solder the handrail and lower rail to the companionway stanchions.

Thread the remaining four stanchions 205 onto the rails. Bend the handrail and lower rails to the correct shape, and solder them to the first upper companionway stanchion. Bend the handrail to shape step by step, soldering the joints as you proceed.Shorten the lower middle rail where it meets the companionway, and solder it to the upper middle rail.Tape the soldered sections to the deck as you complete them.

Right-hand side:Thread the handrail and lower rail through the companionway stanchions, and solder the joints. Insert the platform stanchion, bend the handrail and lower rail to shape, and solder the joints.

The U-shaped lower rails and handrail on the monitor platform can be bent to shape over the railing stanchion openings. Thread the stanchions onto the rails. Insert the railing in the monitor platform and solder the joints.Remove the completed railing sections and paint them.

Bend the ladder 214 to the shape shown.The inside clear width is 12 mm.Remove the struts marked red in the drawing of the etched sheet.Cautiously bend the upper section back through about 45°.Mark the required holes on the wheelhouse and drill 1 mm pilot-holes. Paint the ladder and glue it in place.The second ladder in the etched parts sheet is a spare, and is not needed for this model.

Bend the handrails and lower rails as shown in the dimensioned drawing below. Thread the stanchions onto the rails, and fit them in the appropriate holes. Tape them in place before soldering the joints.Finally bend the handrails and lower rails for the ladder, and solder the lower rails to the handrails.

205

62

63

64

The superstructure railingRailing between the exhaust pillars:Thread five railing stanchions onto the handrail and lower rail, and insert them in the deck. You can either glue these parts together using cyano, or solder the joints.Paint the railing and glue it in the deck.The lamp bracket for the stern and towing lights is made from parts 209 - 211.

Forward superstructure railing:Bend the wires using a screwdriver or dowel of about 3 - 4 mm Ø; this maintains a constant radius.

Start by bending the nine treads 212. Paint them and glue them in the walls 67 and 84.

Side superstructure railingsThe wheelhouse itself is not shown here.The handrails should be 500 mm long.Form the first two or three bends in the rods along the inside of the footrail.Thread twelve stanchions onto the lower rails and the handrail.Start the assembly process at the rear.Leave the rods projecting by about 25 mm aft of the last railing stanchion.

Approx. 25 mm projection

Die hinteren 6-7 Relingstützen in das Deck stecken. Über den Handlauf am Aufbau mit Klebestreifen sichern. Richten Sie zwei Relingstützen aus und löten oder kleben Sie den Handlauf fest. Die Durchzüge ausrichten und löten/kleben. Löten Sie so alle Relingstützen bis vor die nächste Biegung. Die bis dahin fertige Reling mit Klebestreifen am Aufbau sichern und die Drähte weiter biegen. Relingstützen weiter anlöten, wieder bis zur nächsten Biegung. Vorn den Handlauf nach unten biegen und in die vorgesehenen Löcher im Aufbau stecken.Die Durchzüge parallel nach unten biegen und am Handlauf anlöten.Verfahren Sie ebenso mit der anderen Seite.

Wheelhouse companionway and railingStart by assembling the companionway between the wheelhouse roof and the monitor platform; solder all the joints, then bend the flanges down at 90°. The oval holes must be enlarged to 1 mm.Solder the railing stanchions 203 in place.Tape the companionway to the underside of the platform and the roof. You may need to cut slots in the edge of the roof for the companionway strings.

58

59

60

61

The next step is to assemble the monitor platform railing.Left-hand side:Thread the handrail and the upper middle rail through the companionway stanchions. Insert the first stanchion in the platform, and bend the handrail and the lower rail so that they fit in the holes in the stanchion.Solder the handrail and lower rail to the companionway stanchions.

Thread the remaining four stanchions 205 onto the rails. Bend the handrail and lower rails to the correct shape, and solder them to the first upper companionway stanchion. Bend the handrail to shape step by step, soldering the joints as you proceed.Shorten the lower middle rail where it meets the companionway, and solder it to the upper middle rail.Tape the soldered sections to the deck as you complete them.

Right-hand side:Thread the handrail and lower rail through the companionway stanchions, and solder the joints. Insert the platform stanchion, bend the handrail and lower rail to shape, and solder the joints.

The U-shaped lower rails and handrail on the monitor platform can be bent to shape over the railing stanchion openings. Thread the stanchions onto the rails. Insert the railing in the monitor platform and solder the joints.Remove the completed railing sections and paint them.

Bend the ladder 214 to the shape shown.The inside clear width is 12 mm.Remove the struts marked red in the drawing of the etched sheet.Cautiously bend the upper section back through about 45°.Mark the required holes on the wheelhouse and drill 1 mm pilot-holes. Paint the ladder and glue it in place.The second ladder in the etched parts sheet is a spare, and is not needed for this model.

Bend the handrails and lower rails as shown in the dimensioned drawing below. Thread the stanchions onto the rails, and fit them in the appropriate holes. Tape them in place before soldering the joints.Finally bend the handrails and lower rails for the ladder, and solder the lower rails to the handrails.

205

62

63

64

SearchlightThe searchlight is located in a separate frame on the etched parts sheet. Always bend the sheet material towards the etched-in groove to avoid the parts breaking.

First bend the two sides of the box 215 upwards through 90°.

Insert the two side panels 216 in the notches in the bottom. Wrap masking tape round the box thus produced. Place this assembly in a vice or between two pieces of wood in such a way that the seam to be soldered is horizontal, and does not make contact with anything.

Tack the parts together on the inside.The box does not need to be watertight.Repeat this procedure with all four corners and the bottom.

217

216215

216

Solder

Adhesive tape

Pass the swivel tube 218 through the cover 217 and the hole in the floor of the box. Align the cover, and tack it to the side walls with spots of solder.

Tape the brackets 219 and 221 to a strip of balsa or similar, with the bending grooves facing up.

Continue the holes in the brackets about 2 mm deep into the wood using a 1.0 mm drill.Fit the pivot pins through the brackets and into the wood, and cut them off about 0.5 - 1 mm above it.Solder the wires in place and clean up the soldered joints.

Now drill the 2 mm and 3 mm holes through the brackets and into the wood. Insert the tubes 218 and 220 through the wood, and fit the brackets on the tubes with about 1 mm projecting. Solder the joints using a minimum of solder.

Adhesive tape

Balsa strip

222

Glue horizontal reinforcements 224 to the lamp housing, and drill holes through the housing. Drill holes in the other side of the housing, taking care that the holes are at right-angles and exactly opposite each other. Carefully position the opposite reinforcement 224 using the drill as a guide.Drill a hole for the cable in the bottom of the lamp housing.Slip the two bracket tubes into each other. Cautiously bend the brackets to shape, and fit the pivot pins in the reinforcements. Press the brackets firmly against the lamp housing using two fingers, and swivel slightly to left and right on the tube; this will cause the bends to align themselves. You may need to apply more solder to the bending grooves.

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66

67

68

Glue the backplate 225 to the housing 223.Glue the handles 226 in the holes. Glue the latches 227 in the holes above the housing. The searchlight can now be painted.

Cut the LED pins to length and solder the wires to them.Insulate the soldered joints and pins with heat-shrink sleeves or similar. Thread the wires through the hole in the housing, and fit the LED in the reflector. Place the reflector in the lamp housing, followed by the lens. Secure the lens with contact cement or canopy glue. Don't use cyano, as sooner or later this will 'bloom' (turn milky).The two 0.8 mm holes in the top and bottom of the backplate can be used to push out the reflector with a pin, drill or similar, in case a repair is necessary.

Chain stoppersTwo chain stoppers have to be built.Glue together parts 231 - 233 to form the base. Note that part 232 must be bevelled at the top.Glue the shaft 239 in the centre of the retaining plate 238. Glue the two side parts vertically to the slider plate 234. Fit the shaft and the retaining plate 238 before the glue sets.

Cut the crankshaft to length and solder it to the angled crank.Form a loop in the linchpin 242 as shown.Insert both parts; the cranks face amidships.Paint the chain stoppers.These assemblies are glued in place together with the anchor winch and chain.

235

239

239238232 231 233

233241

242

234

Anchor winchThe winch base consists of the double-T supports 243 and the base plate 244.Glue the double-T supports 243 to the base plate as shown in the drawing alongside.The centre of the supports is indicated by a dotted line. Align the supports with the slots in the baseplate. They must not project into the slots. 243244

Glue the two bearing brackets 245 together.Glue this assembly in the slot in the base plate. Glue the bearing bracket 246 in the right-hand slot in the base plate.Thread the shaft through the pivot holes. Glue the reinforcement 248 to the base plate, flush at the bottom, and flush with the outside of part 246. Note that parts 245 and 246 must be set at right-angles to the base plate.

Fit the plates 249 and 250 on the shaft, and glue them to the support 246 - not to the shaft. Glue the plates 251 and the distributor 252 in place. Bend the guides 255 to the shape shown and glue them in place. Glue the small cover 254 in place.

245

248

247

246251 252

254

251

255

250

249

69

70

71

72

SearchlightThe searchlight is located in a separate frame on the etched parts sheet. Always bend the sheet material towards the etched-in groove to avoid the parts breaking.

First bend the two sides of the box 215 upwards through 90°.

Insert the two side panels 216 in the notches in the bottom. Wrap masking tape round the box thus produced. Place this assembly in a vice or between two pieces of wood in such a way that the seam to be soldered is horizontal, and does not make contact with anything.

Tack the parts together on the inside.The box does not need to be watertight.Repeat this procedure with all four corners and the bottom.

217

216215

216

Solder

Adhesive tape

Pass the swivel tube 218 through the cover 217 and the hole in the floor of the box. Align the cover, and tack it to the side walls with spots of solder.

Tape the brackets 219 and 221 to a strip of balsa or similar, with the bending grooves facing up.

Continue the holes in the brackets about 2 mm deep into the wood using a 1.0 mm drill.Fit the pivot pins through the brackets and into the wood, and cut them off about 0.5 - 1 mm above it.Solder the wires in place and clean up the soldered joints.

Now drill the 2 mm and 3 mm holes through the brackets and into the wood. Insert the tubes 218 and 220 through the wood, and fit the brackets on the tubes with about 1 mm projecting. Solder the joints using a minimum of solder.

Adhesive tape

Balsa strip

222

Glue horizontal reinforcements 224 to the lamp housing, and drill holes through the housing. Drill holes in the other side of the housing, taking care that the holes are at right-angles and exactly opposite each other. Carefully position the opposite reinforcement 224 using the drill as a guide.Drill a hole for the cable in the bottom of the lamp housing.Slip the two bracket tubes into each other. Cautiously bend the brackets to shape, and fit the pivot pins in the reinforcements. Press the brackets firmly against the lamp housing using two fingers, and swivel slightly to left and right on the tube; this will cause the bends to align themselves. You may need to apply more solder to the bending grooves.

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68

Glue the backplate 225 to the housing 223.Glue the handles 226 in the holes. Glue the latches 227 in the holes above the housing. The searchlight can now be painted.

Cut the LED pins to length and solder the wires to them.Insulate the soldered joints and pins with heat-shrink sleeves or similar. Thread the wires through the hole in the housing, and fit the LED in the reflector. Place the reflector in the lamp housing, followed by the lens. Secure the lens with contact cement or canopy glue. Don't use cyano, as sooner or later this will 'bloom' (turn milky).The two 0.8 mm holes in the top and bottom of the backplate can be used to push out the reflector with a pin, drill or similar, in case a repair is necessary.

Chain stoppersTwo chain stoppers have to be built.Glue together parts 231 - 233 to form the base. Note that part 232 must be bevelled at the top.Glue the shaft 239 in the centre of the retaining plate 238. Glue the two side parts vertically to the slider plate 234. Fit the shaft and the retaining plate 238 before the glue sets.

Cut the crankshaft to length and solder it to the angled crank.Form a loop in the linchpin 242 as shown.Insert both parts; the cranks face amidships.Paint the chain stoppers.These assemblies are glued in place together with the anchor winch and chain.

235

239

239238232 231 233

233241

242

234

Anchor winchThe winch base consists of the double-T supports 243 and the base plate 244.Glue the double-T supports 243 to the base plate as shown in the drawing alongside.The centre of the supports is indicated by a dotted line. Align the supports with the slots in the baseplate. They must not project into the slots. 243244

Glue the two bearing brackets 245 together.Glue this assembly in the slot in the base plate. Glue the bearing bracket 246 in the right-hand slot in the base plate.Thread the shaft through the pivot holes. Glue the reinforcement 248 to the base plate, flush at the bottom, and flush with the outside of part 246. Note that parts 245 and 246 must be set at right-angles to the base plate.

Fit the plates 249 and 250 on the shaft, and glue them to the support 246 - not to the shaft. Glue the plates 251 and the distributor 252 in place. Bend the guides 255 to the shape shown and glue them in place. Glue the small cover 254 in place.

245

248

247

246251 252

254

251

255

250

249

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70

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72

Three braking systems are required.Carefully separate the brake discs 257 from the brake plates 256 and glue them together. Sand the engraved part numbers smooth.Sand the brake discs and the insides of the brake so that they are smooth and rotate freely.

Drill a central 1 mm Ø cross-hole in each of the four bearings 258, and insert them in part 256. Fit the “adjuster screw” 259 and the handwheel shaft 260 through the holes. Remove rough edges from the handwheel 137 and glue it on the shaft.Fit the brake plates 256 on the bearings 258 and glue the parts together with a spacing of 1 mm.Place a piece of 1 mm scrap material between the parts to set the correct spacing.

258

137

260

259257

256

Three release clutches are required.Glue the parts of the release clutches 261 together as shown in the drawing alongside. Glue a metal lever 262 on each of the plastic levers 263.

261

262

263

Glue together the two chain sprockets 264 in the sequence shown in the drawing.

Cable drumGlue the two inner end plates 255 in the drum core 265, keeping the outside edges flush. Glue the two outer end plates to the ends of the core 265. 265

266

Assembling the anchor winchApply a layer of adhesive tape round the brake disc assemblies to act as a spacer.Fit the feet of the brake systems 256, with the brake discs fitted, in the slots in the base plate.Slide the shaft 247 through the assembly.Glue the retaining plate 269 to the top of the reinforcement 248. Note that the brakes must stand vertical. Allow the glued joints to set hard.

233

Adhesive tape

248

269

73

74

75

76

77

Withdraw the shaft.Insert all the individual parts in the winch body as shown in the drawing alongside.Push the shaft right through.Assemble the parts of the capstan head 267 and sand the assembly before gluing it to the shaft.Glue the pins 270 in the retaining plate 269, and fit the levers 262 / 263.

Check that the sprockets are free to rotate.

It is possible to install a working winch below deck.In this case the sprockets act as return pulleys.

Glue the anchor winch over the chain hawse pipes 7.1. Wrap a chain over the sprockets and through both hawse pipes.Position the chain stoppers and glue them to the deck.Attach the anchors to the chain, and secure the chain inside the hull.

268

270

268

267

Towing winchThe first step is to build the winch base.Assemble the base components 272 - 274. Add the base plate 275 and glue all the joints. Glue the spacer rails 276 to the base; the correct position is shown in the right-hand drawing.If you wish, lengths of M3 studding can be glued in the four holes in the base plate to allow the winch to be screwed to the deck; these parts are not included in the kit.Glue the base plate to the spacer rails.

277

276

275

274

273274

273

272

78

79

Three braking systems are required.Carefully separate the brake discs 257 from the brake plates 256 and glue them together. Sand the engraved part numbers smooth.Sand the brake discs and the insides of the brake so that they are smooth and rotate freely.

Drill a central 1 mm Ø cross-hole in each of the four bearings 258, and insert them in part 256. Fit the “adjuster screw” 259 and the handwheel shaft 260 through the holes. Remove rough edges from the handwheel 137 and glue it on the shaft.Fit the brake plates 256 on the bearings 258 and glue the parts together with a spacing of 1 mm.Place a piece of 1 mm scrap material between the parts to set the correct spacing.

258

137

260

259257

256

Three release clutches are required.Glue the parts of the release clutches 261 together as shown in the drawing alongside. Glue a metal lever 262 on each of the plastic levers 263.

261

262

263

Glue together the two chain sprockets 264 in the sequence shown in the drawing.

Cable drumGlue the two inner end plates 255 in the drum core 265, keeping the outside edges flush. Glue the two outer end plates to the ends of the core 265. 265

266

Assembling the anchor winchApply a layer of adhesive tape round the brake disc assemblies to act as a spacer.Fit the feet of the brake systems 256, with the brake discs fitted, in the slots in the base plate.Slide the shaft 247 through the assembly.Glue the retaining plate 269 to the top of the reinforcement 248. Note that the brakes must stand vertical. Allow the glued joints to set hard.

233

Adhesive tape

248

269

73

74

75

76

77

Withdraw the shaft.Insert all the individual parts in the winch body as shown in the drawing alongside.Push the shaft right through.Assemble the parts of the capstan head 267 and sand the assembly before gluing it to the shaft.Glue the pins 270 in the retaining plate 269, and fit the levers 262 / 263.

Check that the sprockets are free to rotate.

It is possible to install a working winch below deck.In this case the sprockets act as return pulleys.

Glue the anchor winch over the chain hawse pipes 7.1. Wrap a chain over the sprockets and through both hawse pipes.Position the chain stoppers and glue them to the deck.Attach the anchors to the chain, and secure the chain inside the hull.

268

270

268

267

Towing winchThe first step is to build the winch base.Assemble the base components 272 - 274. Add the base plate 275 and glue all the joints. Glue the spacer rails 276 to the base; the correct position is shown in the right-hand drawing.If you wish, lengths of M3 studding can be glued in the four holes in the base plate to allow the winch to be screwed to the deck; these parts are not included in the kit.Glue the base plate to the spacer rails.

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276

275

274

273274

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272

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79

In the area between the central and right-hand spacer rails the base plates should be sanded at an angle as shown.Glue the tubular guard 278 in place.

278

Glue the reinforcements 281 centrally to the frame 279; these parts are laser-cut in the correct sequence in laser-cut sheet 2. Start with the “bottom” part and proceed to build upwards. The angled gussets must be trimmed to fit individually. Glue the cross-strut 283 over the first reinforcement at the front.Glue the bearing brackets 284 to both sides of the frame's bearing brackets.At a later stage 3 x 7 x 3 mm ballraces (not included) can be glued in the bearing brackets.Glue the covers 285 and 286 in place after inserting the shaft 296.

284

283 284 285

286

280

279284

282achtern / astern

Each of the four brakes is made from two anchor plates 288 with the brake 289 glued between them.Glue the two cylinders 290 between the levers.

288

290

288

289

Winch drumsThe two winch drums are of identical construction, except that the lower one also features the supplementary disc 293.

Drill a 3 mm hole in the drum cores 291 as shown in the drawing.Glue the end plates and inner discs 292 to the drum cores 291 with their outer edges flush and at right-angles.On the left-hand side fit the inner discs 292 and collets 294 in the drums, and secure them with the screws 295. Glue the inner discs and collets in the drums, then remove the screws again. Glue the supplementary disc 293 to the centre of the lower drum, keeping it at right-angles. Glue the left-hand end plates 292 to the drums with their outside edges flush, and at right-angles.The towing cable can be attached to the screw-head later.Glue three brake rings 297 on the outside of each of the end plates, keeping them concentric; they must not foul the brake. To check this you can temporarily install the shaft with the brake fitted.Do not glue these parts.The drums can be painted once the glue has set hard.

292

291

292295

292

291

293294295

297

296

80

81

82

83

Cable guide systemGlue the side plates 301 to the base plate 300.Glue the guide bushes 299 and the upper cover plate 302 between them as shown. Glue the two cable guides 303 in the box.Glue the guide plate 304 at the bottom.

302299

301298

300303

304

Complete the hydraulic fluid tank 305 by fitting the two caps 306. Glue the flange 307 on one cap. One hole in the cover 306 must be left unobstructed to permit the air to expand in warm conditions.

307306

305

306

Glue the spacer rings 309 to the flange 308. Glue the cover 311 on the end, followed by the flange 312 (etched part). Repeat this procedure to produce two assemblies.Assemble the control valves from parts 310, alternating the oval and circular parts.Repeat this procedure three times to produce four assemblies.Glue the control valves 310 on the flat areas at top and bottom of the spacer rings 309.If you are not fitting a motor, the hydraulic drive units can be glued to the holes in the winch. If you wish to install a geared motor, this is installed as shown and secured with M1.6 x 4 mm screws (not included). The dimensions of the shaft coupling (not included) are stated in the drawing alongside.

312

311309 310

308

313

314

GearboxPart 316 features a projection on the underside which fits in the base plate 277. It is best to build the winch box on this base plate.Assemble the parts of the bottom winch box as shown in the drawing alongside.Glue the etched parts 312 to the flanges 325.If you are fitting a geared motor, secure it using M1.6 x 4 mm screws (not included).

324319320

315

318

321

323

316

317

325

312

84

85

86

87

In the area between the central and right-hand spacer rails the base plates should be sanded at an angle as shown.Glue the tubular guard 278 in place.

278

Glue the reinforcements 281 centrally to the frame 279; these parts are laser-cut in the correct sequence in laser-cut sheet 2. Start with the “bottom” part and proceed to build upwards. The angled gussets must be trimmed to fit individually. Glue the cross-strut 283 over the first reinforcement at the front.Glue the bearing brackets 284 to both sides of the frame's bearing brackets.At a later stage 3 x 7 x 3 mm ballraces (not included) can be glued in the bearing brackets.Glue the covers 285 and 286 in place after inserting the shaft 296.

284

283 284 285

286

280

279284

282achtern / astern

Each of the four brakes is made from two anchor plates 288 with the brake 289 glued between them.Glue the two cylinders 290 between the levers.

288

290

288

289

Winch drumsThe two winch drums are of identical construction, except that the lower one also features the supplementary disc 293.

Drill a 3 mm hole in the drum cores 291 as shown in the drawing.Glue the end plates and inner discs 292 to the drum cores 291 with their outer edges flush and at right-angles.On the left-hand side fit the inner discs 292 and collets 294 in the drums, and secure them with the screws 295. Glue the inner discs and collets in the drums, then remove the screws again. Glue the supplementary disc 293 to the centre of the lower drum, keeping it at right-angles. Glue the left-hand end plates 292 to the drums with their outside edges flush, and at right-angles.The towing cable can be attached to the screw-head later.Glue three brake rings 297 on the outside of each of the end plates, keeping them concentric; they must not foul the brake. To check this you can temporarily install the shaft with the brake fitted.Do not glue these parts.The drums can be painted once the glue has set hard.

292

291

292295

292

291

293294295

297

296

80

81

82

83

Cable guide systemGlue the side plates 301 to the base plate 300.Glue the guide bushes 299 and the upper cover plate 302 between them as shown. Glue the two cable guides 303 in the box.Glue the guide plate 304 at the bottom.

302299

301298

300303

304

Complete the hydraulic fluid tank 305 by fitting the two caps 306. Glue the flange 307 on one cap. One hole in the cover 306 must be left unobstructed to permit the air to expand in warm conditions.

307306

305

306

Glue the spacer rings 309 to the flange 308. Glue the cover 311 on the end, followed by the flange 312 (etched part). Repeat this procedure to produce two assemblies.Assemble the control valves from parts 310, alternating the oval and circular parts.Repeat this procedure three times to produce four assemblies.Glue the control valves 310 on the flat areas at top and bottom of the spacer rings 309.If you are not fitting a motor, the hydraulic drive units can be glued to the holes in the winch. If you wish to install a geared motor, this is installed as shown and secured with M1.6 x 4 mm screws (not included). The dimensions of the shaft coupling (not included) are stated in the drawing alongside.

312

311309 310

308

313

314

GearboxPart 316 features a projection on the underside which fits in the base plate 277. It is best to build the winch box on this base plate.Assemble the parts of the bottom winch box as shown in the drawing alongside.Glue the etched parts 312 to the flanges 325.If you are fitting a geared motor, secure it using M1.6 x 4 mm screws (not included).

324319320

315

318

321

323

316

317

325

312

84

85

86

87

Assembling the winchGlue the four brake units to the bearing brackets 284, aligning them as shown in the drawing. Fit the shafts 296 through the drums. Glue the left and right frame assemblies to the base plate. Connect the motor and coupling (if fitted).The whole assembly can now be painted.

Glue the cross-strut 326 between the frame assemblies.Insert the three guide shafts 298 and the cable guide, and glue them to the frame on the outside.Glue the fairing 327 in place.Bend the handrail to the shape shown, and solder the rungs 330 between them. Thread the stanchions on the handrail, and solder it to the platform 329.Insert the platform and the left-hand handrail into the winch base plate. Glue the platform to the winch.

On the full-size vessels the diameter of the towing cable is 50 - 80 mm.On the model the cable diameter should therefore be in the range 1.5 - 2.5 mm. The cables exit the drums at the bottom. The cable material is not included in the kit.

327

298

326331

205

329331

51 mm

328

330

Tugger winchesThe two tugger winches are built as a mirror-image pair; the instructions describe the right-hand unit.Parts which are different left and right are marked 'left' and 'right' in the drawing.Glue the bases 332 and 333 to the underside of the base plate 334.Cut out the centered base below the opening.Lengths of M2 studding can be glued in the holes in the base plate if you wish. You will find matching holes in the main deck.

left

right

astern

forward

334 right

333

88

89

90

Lay parts 335 down flat, and push part 336 into them.Glue the bearing plates 337 in place from the inside.

335

337

336

Fit this part through the slots in part 333, then glue the bearing plate 337 in place.

Glue the struts 335 to the base plate.Place the roller 340 between the struts, slip the axle 339 through the assembly, and glue the axle at the top.

338

333335

334 rechts

336

339

340

337

Glue the inner discs of the end plates 342 in the drum 343. Glue the end plates to the drums, keeping them at right-angles.Glue the limiter disc 344 and the brake discs 345 to the end plates.

344

342342

343

341

342

345

The gearbox is assembled from parts 346 and 347.Glue together the two brakes 348, and drill a hole for the brake shaft 349. Glue or solder a handwheel 137 to the brake shaft.Glue the two bearing brackets 351 together.Glue the cover 352 on top, and the struts 353 to the sides.

346346

347

349

137

351 352

353

351

348

91

92

93

94.1

332

cut out

Assembling the winchGlue the four brake units to the bearing brackets 284, aligning them as shown in the drawing. Fit the shafts 296 through the drums. Glue the left and right frame assemblies to the base plate. Connect the motor and coupling (if fitted).The whole assembly can now be painted.

Glue the cross-strut 326 between the frame assemblies.Insert the three guide shafts 298 and the cable guide, and glue them to the frame on the outside.Glue the fairing 327 in place.Bend the handrail to the shape shown, and solder the rungs 330 between them. Thread the stanchions on the handrail, and solder it to the platform 329.Insert the platform and the left-hand handrail into the winch base plate. Glue the platform to the winch.

On the full-size vessels the diameter of the towing cable is 50 - 80 mm.On the model the cable diameter should therefore be in the range 1.5 - 2.5 mm. The cables exit the drums at the bottom. The cable material is not included in the kit.

327

298

326331

205

329331

51 mm

328

330

Tugger winchesThe two tugger winches are built as a mirror-image pair; the instructions describe the right-hand unit.Parts which are different left and right are marked 'left' and 'right' in the drawing.Glue the bases 332 and 333 to the underside of the base plate 334.Cut out the centered base below the opening.Lengths of M2 studding can be glued in the holes in the base plate if you wish. You will find matching holes in the main deck.

left

right

astern

forward

334 right

333

88

89

90

Lay parts 335 down flat, and push part 336 into them.Glue the bearing plates 337 in place from the inside.

335

337

336

Fit this part through the slots in part 333, then glue the bearing plate 337 in place.

Glue the struts 335 to the base plate.Place the roller 340 between the struts, slip the axle 339 through the assembly, and glue the axle at the top.

338

333335

334 rechts

336

339

340

337

Glue the inner discs of the end plates 342 in the drum 343. Glue the end plates to the drums, keeping them at right-angles.Glue the limiter disc 344 and the brake discs 345 to the end plates.

344

342342

343

341

342

345

The gearbox is assembled from parts 346 and 347.Glue together the two brakes 348, and drill a hole for the brake shaft 349. Glue or solder a handwheel 137 to the brake shaft.Glue the two bearing brackets 351 together.Glue the cover 352 on top, and the struts 353 to the sides.

346346

347

349

137

351 352

353

351

348

91

92

93

94.1

332

cut out

Assembling the tugger winchGlue parts 354 together to form the gearbox. This assembly is glued to the outside of part 346; fitting a 1 mm rod through the holes aids alignment. Glue two capping discs 355 over each of the holes, followed by the flanges 356. Fit only one capping disc 355 and flange 356 to the bearing bracket.Fit the shaft 341 through the drum and into the gearbox 346. Slip the brake over the brake discs and the bearing bracket 351 onto the shaft. Insert the brake and bearing bracket in the openings in the base plate 344, and glue the parts in place.The winch can now be painted.

The winch cord should be about 1.5 - 2.0 mm Ø; the material is not included in the kit. Wind suitable cord round the winch.Fix the winch on the main deck adjacent to the working deck.Note that the cable exits the winch at the bottom.

354 355

356

346

341

The working deckThis part seals a large opening, so it is important to work carefully at this stage to prevent water entering the hull later.

Lacquer both sides of all the wooden deck components 362. Fix the wooden decks to the working deck using strips of tape, gluing the deck beams 358 between them using UHU Plast Spezial.Be sparing with the adhesive, as you do not want to glue the wooden inserts in place.Allow the glue to set hard, then remove the wooden inserts.Glue the wooden bearer 360 centrally to the underside of the working deck using UHU acrylit or Pattex Stabilit, and remove any excess glue which is squeezed out. The aft working deck 359 is glued to the projecting part.Place the working deck in the main deck opening.Apply UHU acrylit or Pattex Stabilit to the wooden bearer 360.Place the aft working deck in the deck opening on the wooden bearer, then leave the adhesive to cure fully.

358

360362

357

Lay the aft wooden deck on the deck, and glue the deck beam in the angled area. Check that the holes for the towing bracket line up correctly.Remove all the wooden parts, and paint the plastic surfaces the same colour as the deck.Allow the paint to dry before gluing all the wooden parts in place permanently.

Use a flexible adhesive such as Canopy glue, or a non-brittle cyano-acrylate.

94.2

95

96

Remove the inside part of the template 364. Replace the insert, and tape the parts together on the back. The dotted lines indicate the angle of the saw-cuts.Cut the towing bar components to shape in the template, and remove all rough edges. Trim the cross-strut to fit using a round file. Place the parts in the template again and tack them together using cyano.Glue the parts together securely, inside and out.

The towing bar can now be painted.Insert the towing bar in the holes, and apply glue to the underside to form a strong joint.The towing bar also forms a handle for opening the deck.

363

364

Turn the deck over, and glue the four locating hooks 356 in place as shown.

Remove any glue remaining between the working deck and the hook, otherwise it will not be possible to slide the deck into place.

Check the sides of the deck for projecting plastic or wooden parts.Slide the working deck into the deck opening.Check that the wooden deck lies flush with the main deck.Glue the liferaft holders together, and glue them to the side angled roof 85 of the superstructure.Paint the liferafts red / orange before gluing the upper ones to the handrail, the lower ones to the side of the superstructure (see illustration).Many further detail fittings can be added to the model if you wish.

97

98356

Tip:The Centre of Gravity (CG) should be located at the centre of the vessel; when the boat is balanced correctly, the CWL lies parallel to the water's surface. Adjust the position of the battery on the battery plate 22 until this is the case.

Battery

++

Centre of VolumeCentre of Gravity

CWL

Assembling the tugger winchGlue parts 354 together to form the gearbox. This assembly is glued to the outside of part 346; fitting a 1 mm rod through the holes aids alignment. Glue two capping discs 355 over each of the holes, followed by the flanges 356. Fit only one capping disc 355 and flange 356 to the bearing bracket.Fit the shaft 341 through the drum and into the gearbox 346. Slip the brake over the brake discs and the bearing bracket 351 onto the shaft. Insert the brake and bearing bracket in the openings in the base plate 344, and glue the parts in place.The winch can now be painted.

The winch cord should be about 1.5 - 2.0 mm Ø; the material is not included in the kit. Wind suitable cord round the winch.Fix the winch on the main deck adjacent to the working deck.Note that the cable exits the winch at the bottom.

354 355

356

346

341

The working deckThis part seals a large opening, so it is important to work carefully at this stage to prevent water entering the hull later.

Lacquer both sides of all the wooden deck components 362. Fix the wooden decks to the working deck using strips of tape, gluing the deck beams 358 between them using UHU Plast Spezial.Be sparing with the adhesive, as you do not want to glue the wooden inserts in place.Allow the glue to set hard, then remove the wooden inserts.Glue the wooden bearer 360 centrally to the underside of the working deck using UHU acrylit or Pattex Stabilit, and remove any excess glue which is squeezed out. The aft working deck 359 is glued to the projecting part.Place the working deck in the main deck opening.Apply UHU acrylit or Pattex Stabilit to the wooden bearer 360.Place the aft working deck in the deck opening on the wooden bearer, then leave the adhesive to cure fully.

358

360362

357

Lay the aft wooden deck on the deck, and glue the deck beam in the angled area. Check that the holes for the towing bracket line up correctly.Remove all the wooden parts, and paint the plastic surfaces the same colour as the deck.Allow the paint to dry before gluing all the wooden parts in place permanently.

Use a flexible adhesive such as Canopy glue, or a non-brittle cyano-acrylate.

94.2

95

96

Remove the inside part of the template 364. Replace the insert, and tape the parts together on the back. The dotted lines indicate the angle of the saw-cuts.Cut the towing bar components to shape in the template, and remove all rough edges. Trim the cross-strut to fit using a round file. Place the parts in the template again and tack them together using cyano.Glue the parts together securely, inside and out.

The towing bar can now be painted.Insert the towing bar in the holes, and apply glue to the underside to form a strong joint.The towing bar also forms a handle for opening the deck.

363

364

Turn the deck over, and glue the four locating hooks 356 in place as shown.

Remove any glue remaining between the working deck and the hook, otherwise it will not be possible to slide the deck into place.

Check the sides of the deck for projecting plastic or wooden parts.Slide the working deck into the deck opening.Check that the wooden deck lies flush with the main deck.Glue the liferaft holders together, and glue them to the side angled roof 85 of the superstructure.Paint the liferafts red / orange before gluing the upper ones to the handrail, the lower ones to the side of the superstructure (see illustration).Many further detail fittings can be added to the model if you wish.

97

98356

Tip:The Centre of Gravity (CG) should be located at the centre of the vessel; when the boat is balanced correctly, the CWL lies parallel to the water's surface. Adjust the position of the battery on the battery plate 22 until this is the case.

Battery

++

Centre of VolumeCentre of Gravity

CWL

Installing the optional Schottel drive system

If you wish to equip your model with a Schottel system, we recommend our Schottel drive set, Order No. 7020/84.The standard kit includes a separate laser-cut sheet (14) containing the requisite supports. This is the procedure for assembling the system:

Parts 1 and 3 are pre-cut with a double ring of different diameters to match the Schottel unit shafts.Select the appropriate diameter, and either remove the excess, or apply glue to the cut-line.

Assemble the two Schottel unit bearers (parts 1 - 5) and glue the joints.Drill holes in the hull to suit the rudder-propeller units you intend to install.

Fit the rudder-propeller units through the hull, and fit the Schottel bearers on top. You may need to trim the contact surfaces of parts 2 and 4 to match the curvature of the hull. Lay the spacer plate 6 on the inner lugs; this part helps to align the power units. Do not glue part 6 in place at this stage.

Align the Schottel units carefully, and tack them in the hull using a little epoxy or cyano. Secure the Schottel installation frame with clamps, adhesive tape etc.

Turn the hull over and apply glue to the Schottel unit joints from the underside, taking great care to make the joints with the hull completely watertight. Remove the installation frame, and apply more glue to the Schottel unit joints from the top. Allow the glue to set hard, then fit the Schottel unit bearers and glue them permanently to the hull.

Our tests have shown that the ideal servo set-up for the swivel movement is a 180° servo and a reduction ratio of at least 2 : 1. The maximum number of teeth on the large pulley mounted on the servo is 60. The small pulley on the Schottel unit should have about 25 - 30 teeth.Screw the large pulley to the servo output lever.

We recommend a maximum propeller speed of about 1500 rpm.Select the motors and reduction gearboxes to obtain these figures.Glue the spacer plate 6 on the lugs of parts 4. This plate forms an ideal support for the speed controllers.

1 Servo mount2 Outer support3 Upper support4 Inner support5 Motor mount6 Spacer plate

3

31

16

5

5

2

4

4 2

StücklisteP q0 Description Quant. Material Laser-cut sheet Form Dimensions Notes

1 Front boatstand 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

2 Rear boatstand 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

3 Connecting piece 2 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

4 Locking piece 4 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

5 Hull 1 GRP Ready made

6 Anchor hawse pocket, 5-part 2 ABS 3 Oversize 1.5 mm

7 Hawse pipe 2 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 65 mm Cut from part Z7

7.1 Hawse pipe 2 Plastic tube Oversize 6/5 x 20 mm

8 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

9 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

10 Frame 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

11 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

11.1 Stern tube support 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

12 Frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

13 Frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

14 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

15 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

16 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

17 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

18 Deck stringer 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

19 Deck stringer 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

20 Deck stringer 2 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 500 mm Cut from part Z4

21 Fore-and-aft deck support 2 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 3 x 430 mm

22 Battery plate 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

23 Foredeck girder 2 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 285 mm Cut from part Z4

24 Foredeck girder 3 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 115 mm Cut from part Z4

25 Foredeck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 90 mm Cut from part Z4

26 Main deck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 140 mm Cut from part Z4

27 Main deck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 238 mm Cut from part Z4

28 Bilge keel 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

29 Motor mount, 4-part 2 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.G57+G2010 mm

30 Shaft coupling 2 Ready made

31 Coupling hub, 5.0 mm 2 Ready made

32 Coupling hub, 4.0 mm 2 Ready made

34 Inner skeg 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

35 Outer skeg 4 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

36 Skeg reinforcement 2 Brass rod Oversize 2 x 110 mm

37 Skeg tube 2 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 28 mm Cut from part Z7

38 Shaft 2 Ready made 18 mm thread

39 Shaft bracket, V-shaped, 2-part 2 Plastic Ready made

40 Bush doubler 4 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

41 Rudder blade, 6-part 2 ABS 8 Laserteil 2.0 mm

41.1 Rudder shaft 2 Brass tube Oversize 4.0/3.1 x 128 mm

41.2 Silicone tube 2 Silicone Oversize 7/4 x 15 mm

42 Tiller 2 Ready made

43 Rudder pushrod 2 Stainless steel rod Oversize 1.5 x 250 mm Cut to length

44 Pushrod keeper 2 Ready made

45 Pushrod connector with nut and grubscrew 2 Ready made

46 Servo mount top 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

47 Outer servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

48 Inner servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

49 Front / rear servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

50 Stern roller cradle 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

51 Stern roller side 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

52 Stern roller bearing support 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

53 Stern roller bearing cover 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

54 Stern roller 1 Plastic tube Oversize 20/18 x 68 mm

55 Stern roller bearing plate 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

56 Roller shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 4 x 87 mm

57 Main deck support 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

58 Doubler 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

59 Main deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

60 Jig strip 2 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 10 x 1000 mm

61 Jig strip 1 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 5 x 1000 mm

62 No part -

63 No part -

64 Foredeck 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

65 Superstructure floor 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

66 Superstructure side 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

67 Superstructure front 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

68 Front transverse wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

69 Door 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

70 Lower superstructure fillet 2 Plastic quadrant Oversize 2.5 x 72 mm Cut from part Z10

71 Upper superstructure fillet 2 Plastic quadrant Oversize 2.5 x 72 mm Cut from part Z10

72 Forward fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

73 L.H. fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

74 Door 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

75 L.H. inner wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

75.1 Door 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

76 Centre fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

77 Door 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

78 Partition wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

79 Angled wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

80 Rear transverse wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

81 R.H. fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

82 Rear superstructure wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

83 Doors 3 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

84 Front angled roof 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

85 Side angled roof 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

86 Companionway 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

87 Coaming 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

88 Bulwark stanchion 34 Nickel silver Etched

89 Bow reinforcement 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

90 Bulwark reinforcement 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

90.1 Angled handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

91 Support 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

Installing the optional Schottel drive system

If you wish to equip your model with a Schottel system, we recommend our Schottel drive set, Order No. 7020/84.The standard kit includes a separate laser-cut sheet (14) containing the requisite supports. This is the procedure for assembling the system:

Parts 1 and 3 are pre-cut with a double ring of different diameters to match the Schottel unit shafts.Select the appropriate diameter, and either remove the excess, or apply glue to the cut-line.

Assemble the two Schottel unit bearers (parts 1 - 5) and glue the joints.Drill holes in the hull to suit the rudder-propeller units you intend to install.

Fit the rudder-propeller units through the hull, and fit the Schottel bearers on top. You may need to trim the contact surfaces of parts 2 and 4 to match the curvature of the hull. Lay the spacer plate 6 on the inner lugs; this part helps to align the power units. Do not glue part 6 in place at this stage.

Align the Schottel units carefully, and tack them in the hull using a little epoxy or cyano. Secure the Schottel installation frame with clamps, adhesive tape etc.

Turn the hull over and apply glue to the Schottel unit joints from the underside, taking great care to make the joints with the hull completely watertight. Remove the installation frame, and apply more glue to the Schottel unit joints from the top. Allow the glue to set hard, then fit the Schottel unit bearers and glue them permanently to the hull.

Our tests have shown that the ideal servo set-up for the swivel movement is a 180° servo and a reduction ratio of at least 2 : 1. The maximum number of teeth on the large pulley mounted on the servo is 60. The small pulley on the Schottel unit should have about 25 - 30 teeth.Screw the large pulley to the servo output lever.

We recommend a maximum propeller speed of about 1500 rpm.Select the motors and reduction gearboxes to obtain these figures.Glue the spacer plate 6 on the lugs of parts 4. This plate forms an ideal support for the speed controllers.

1 Servo mount2 Outer support3 Upper support4 Inner support5 Motor mount6 Spacer plate

3

31

16

5

5

2

4

4 2

StücklisteP q0 Description Quant. Material Laser-cut sheet Form Dimensions Notes

1 Front boatstand 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

2 Rear boatstand 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

3 Connecting piece 2 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

4 Locking piece 4 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

5 Hull 1 GRP Ready made

6 Anchor hawse pocket, 5-part 2 ABS 3 Oversize 1.5 mm

7 Hawse pipe 2 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 65 mm Cut from part Z7

7.1 Hawse pipe 2 Plastic tube Oversize 6/5 x 20 mm

8 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

9 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

10 Frame 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

11 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

11.1 Stern tube support 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

12 Frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

13 Frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

14 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

15 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

16 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

17 Frame 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

18 Deck stringer 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

19 Deck stringer 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

20 Deck stringer 2 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 500 mm Cut from part Z4

21 Fore-and-aft deck support 2 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 3 x 430 mm

22 Battery plate 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

23 Foredeck girder 2 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 285 mm Cut from part Z4

24 Foredeck girder 3 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 115 mm Cut from part Z4

25 Foredeck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 90 mm Cut from part Z4

26 Main deck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 140 mm Cut from part Z4

27 Main deck support 1 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 238 mm Cut from part Z4

28 Bilge keel 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

29 Motor mount, 4-part 2 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.G57+G2010 mm

30 Shaft coupling 2 Ready made

31 Coupling hub, 5.0 mm 2 Ready made

32 Coupling hub, 4.0 mm 2 Ready made

34 Inner skeg 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

35 Outer skeg 4 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

36 Skeg reinforcement 2 Brass rod Oversize 2 x 110 mm

37 Skeg tube 2 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 28 mm Cut from part Z7

38 Shaft 2 Ready made 18 mm thread

39 Shaft bracket, V-shaped, 2-part 2 Plastic Ready made

40 Bush doubler 4 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

41 Rudder blade, 6-part 2 ABS 8 Laserteil 2.0 mm

41.1 Rudder shaft 2 Brass tube Oversize 4.0/3.1 x 128 mm

41.2 Silicone tube 2 Silicone Oversize 7/4 x 15 mm

42 Tiller 2 Ready made

43 Rudder pushrod 2 Stainless steel rod Oversize 1.5 x 250 mm Cut to length

44 Pushrod keeper 2 Ready made

45 Pushrod connector with nut and grubscrew 2 Ready made

46 Servo mount top 1 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

47 Outer servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

48 Inner servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

49 Front / rear servo mount 2 Birch plywood 11 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

50 Stern roller cradle 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

51 Stern roller side 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

52 Stern roller bearing support 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

53 Stern roller bearing cover 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

54 Stern roller 1 Plastic tube Oversize 20/18 x 68 mm

55 Stern roller bearing plate 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

56 Roller shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 4 x 87 mm

57 Main deck support 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

58 Doubler 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

59 Main deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

60 Jig strip 2 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 10 x 1000 mm

61 Jig strip 1 Spruce strip Oversize 3 x 5 x 1000 mm

62 No part -

63 No part -

64 Foredeck 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

65 Superstructure floor 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

66 Superstructure side 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

67 Superstructure front 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

68 Front transverse wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

69 Door 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

70 Lower superstructure fillet 2 Plastic quadrant Oversize 2.5 x 72 mm Cut from part Z10

71 Upper superstructure fillet 2 Plastic quadrant Oversize 2.5 x 72 mm Cut from part Z10

72 Forward fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

73 L.H. fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

74 Door 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

75 L.H. inner wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

75.1 Door 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

76 Centre fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

77 Door 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

78 Partition wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

79 Angled wall 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

80 Rear transverse wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

81 R.H. fore-and-aft wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

82 Rear superstructure wall 1 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

83 Doors 3 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

84 Front angled roof 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

85 Side angled roof 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

86 Companionway 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

87 Coaming 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

88 Bulwark stanchion 34 Nickel silver Etched

89 Bow reinforcement 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

90 Bulwark reinforcement 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

90.1 Angled handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

91 Support 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

92 Front handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

93 Rear handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

94 Bollard (tube) 2 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 50 mm Cut from part Z5

95 Bollard cap 20 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

96 Base plate 6 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

97 Bollard (tube) 12 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 30 mm Cut from part Z5

98 Bollard cross-piece 6 Plastic rod Oversize 5 x 22 mm Cut to length

99 Floor 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

100 Side panel 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

101 Front panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

102 Back panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

103 Outer hinge 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

104 Inner hinge 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

105 Cover 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

106 Handle 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 Cut from part Z2

107 Hinge pin 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 Cut from part Z2

108 Connecting wall 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

109 Door 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

110 Rear superstructure wall 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

111 Door 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

112 Exhaust inner wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

113 Lower exhaust outer wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

114 Rear wall 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

115 Door 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

116 Lower back wall 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

117 Glazed wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

118 Rear exhaust wall 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

119 Servo mount 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

120 Outer wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

121 Companionway support 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

122 Ventilation grille 2 Nickel silver Etched

123 Frame 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

124 Cover 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

125 Lugs 4 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

126 Cylinder 4 Plastic tube Oversize 2/1 x 10 mm

127 Piston 4 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

128 Lower fire-fighting bridge 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

129 Fire-fighting bridge reinforcement 2 Plastic square Oversize 5 x 5 x 160 mm Cut from part Z9

130 Fire-fighting bridge reinforcement 2 Plastic square Oversize 5 x 5 x 40 mm Cut from part Z9

131 Upper fire-fighting bridge 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

132 Large exhaust pipe 1 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 100 mm Cut from part Z6

133 Small exhaust pipe 1 Plastic tube Oversize 10/8 x 70 mm

134 Connecting pipe 2 Brass tube Oversize 4/3.1 x 285 mm

135 Connector 2 Brass tube Oversize 3/2.1 x 12 mm

136 Fire monitor set 2 3D printed set Ready made

137 Handwheel 2 Etched / laser-cut Etched

138 Superstructure deck 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

139 Base rail, 10-part 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

140 Magnet support 2 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

141 Lower wheelhouse mounting frame 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

142 Lower wall, front / rear, side 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

143 Lower centre wall 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

144 Lower R.H. side 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

145 Lower L.H. side 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

146 Window frame, front / rear, centre 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

147 Window frame, side l.h. 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

148 Window frame, side r.h. 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

149 Window frame, side front / rear 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

150 Floor 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

151 Upper mounting frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

152 Rear command stand 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

153 Strut 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

154 Side wall+B198 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

155 Centre console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

156 Side console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

157 Card table 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

158 Side wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

159 Front console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

160 Rear wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

161 Partition wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

162 Front command desk 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

163 Side panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

164 Centre panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

165 Strut 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

166 Roof 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

167 Lamp bracket 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

168 Upper door frame 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

169 Side door frame 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

170 Wall 2 ABS 4+6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

171 Door 2 ABS 4+6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

172 Door latch, turnbuckle 20 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 10 mm Cut from part Z2

173 Mast base 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

174 Mast support 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

175 Front brace 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

176 Rear brace 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

177 Bracket 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

178 Tube bracket 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

179 Shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 14 mm

180 Cylinder 1 Plastic tube Oversize 4/2 x 38 mm

181 Piston 1 Plastic rod Oversize 2 Ø x 46 mm Cut from part Z8

182 Upper shaft 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 5 mm Cut from part Z11

183 Lower shaft 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 14 mm Cut from part Z11

184 Mast 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6.1 x 270 mm

185 Double lamp bracket 3 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

185.1 Single lamp bracket 3 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

186 Reinforcement 11 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

187 Aerial bracket 2 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 65 mm

188 Aerial 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 50 mm Cut from part Z2

189 Aerial 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

190 Flag holder 1 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 75 mm

191 Lamp bottom, lamp spacer 24 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

192 Lamp cap 12 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

193 Lamp lens 24 Plastic Ready made 6 Ø

194 Radar pillar 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6.1 x 70 mm

195 Radar pillar+B299 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6/1 x 42 mm

196 Mounting plate 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

197 Cable tube 1 Plastic tube Oversize 8/7 x 190 mm

198 Radar unit 2 Ready made

199 Main deck / foredeck companionway 2 Nickel silver Etched

200 No part -

201 Companionway handrail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 60 mm Cut from part Z1

202 Companionway lower rail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 60 mm Cut from part Z1

203 Railing stanchion, oval 32 Nickel silver Etched

204 Main deck / superstructure companionway 2 Nickel silver Etched

205 Railing stanchion, round 56 Nickel silver Etched

206 Handrail 4 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 155 mm Cut from part Z2

207 Lower rail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 155 mm Cut from part Z1

208 Ventilation grille 2 Nickel silver Etched

209 Spacer 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.G2760 mm

210 Stern light holder 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

211 Lamp holder 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

212 Tread 9 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

213 Wheelhouse companionway 1 Nickel silver Etched

214 Wheelhouse ladder 1 Nickel silver Etched

215 Searchlight box 1 Nickel silver Etched

216 Side plate 2 Nickel silver Etched

217 Cover 1 Nickel silver Etched

218 Swivel tube 1 Brass tube Oversize 3/2.1 x 22 mm

219 Swivel bracket 1 Nickel silver Etched

220 Tilt tube 1 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 35 mm

221 Tilt bracket 1 Nickel silver Etched

222 Pivot pin 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

223 Housing 1 Plastic tube Oversize 14/12 x 15 mm

224 Reinforcement 2 Nickel silver Etched

225 Backplate 1 Nickel silver Etched

226 Handle 2 Nickel silver Etched

227 Latch 4 Nickel silver Etched

228 Reflector 1 Ready made 12 mm ready made

229 LED 1 Ready made 5 mm LED

230 Lens 1 Vivak 9 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

231 Gusset plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

232 Brace 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

233 Angled plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

234 Slider plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

235 Side 4 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

236 Stopper 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

237 Stopper shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

238 Retaining plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

239 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 9 mm Cut from part Z2

240 Crank 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 9 mm Cut from part Z2

241 Crankshaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 11 mm Cut from part Z3

242 Linchpin 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 20 mm Cut from part Z2

243 Double-T support 4 Plastic profile Oversize 5 x 5 x 27.5 mm Cut to length

244 Base plate 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

245 L.H. bearing bracket 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

246 R.H. bearing bracket 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

247 Shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 79 mm

248 Reinforcement 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

249 Drive plate 3 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

250 Connecting plate 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

251 Plate 5 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

252 Distributor 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

253 No part -

254 Small cover 1 Nickel silver Etched

255 Guide 6 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

256 Brake plate 6 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

257 Brake disc 9 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

258 Bearing 12 Plastic rod Oversize 3 Ø x 5 mm Cut to length

259 Adjuster screw 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 12 mm Cut from part Z2

260 Handwheel shaft 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 35 mm Cut from part Z2

261 Release clutch set 3 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

262 Metal lever 3 Nickel silver Etched

263 Plastic lever 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

264 Chain sprocket set 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

265 Cable drum core 1 Plastic tube Oversize 8/6 x 10 mm

266 Drum end plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

267 Capstan head 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

268 Spacer disc 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

269 Retaining plate 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

270 Pin 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 10 mm Cut from part Z2

271 Anchor 2 Ready made Ready made

272 L.H. base 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

273 Centre / R.H. base 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

274 Transverse base 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

275 Winch base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

276 Spacer rail 3 Square plastic Oversize 5 x 5 x 106 mm Cut from part Z9

277 Base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

278 Tubular guard 1 Plastic tube Oversize 7/5 x 54 mm

279 L.H. frame 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

280 R.H. frame 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

281 Front reinforcement, 5-part 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

282 Rear reinforcement, 5-part 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

283 Cross-strut 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

284 Bearing bracket 12 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

92 Front handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

93 Rear handrail 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

94 Bollard (tube) 2 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 50 mm Cut from part Z5

95 Bollard cap 20 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

96 Base plate 6 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

97 Bollard (tube) 12 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 30 mm Cut from part Z5

98 Bollard cross-piece 6 Plastic rod Oversize 5 x 22 mm Cut to length

99 Floor 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

100 Side panel 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

101 Front panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

102 Back panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

103 Outer hinge 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

104 Inner hinge 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

105 Cover 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

106 Handle 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 Cut from part Z2

107 Hinge pin 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 Cut from part Z2

108 Connecting wall 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

109 Door 2 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

110 Rear superstructure wall 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

111 Door 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

112 Exhaust inner wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

113 Lower exhaust outer wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

114 Rear wall 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

115 Door 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

116 Lower back wall 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

117 Glazed wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

118 Rear exhaust wall 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

119 Servo mount 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

120 Outer wall 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

121 Companionway support 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

122 Ventilation grille 2 Nickel silver Etched

123 Frame 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

124 Cover 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

125 Lugs 4 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

126 Cylinder 4 Plastic tube Oversize 2/1 x 10 mm

127 Piston 4 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

128 Lower fire-fighting bridge 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

129 Fire-fighting bridge reinforcement 2 Plastic square Oversize 5 x 5 x 160 mm Cut from part Z9

130 Fire-fighting bridge reinforcement 2 Plastic square Oversize 5 x 5 x 40 mm Cut from part Z9

131 Upper fire-fighting bridge 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

132 Large exhaust pipe 1 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 100 mm Cut from part Z6

133 Small exhaust pipe 1 Plastic tube Oversize 10/8 x 70 mm

134 Connecting pipe 2 Brass tube Oversize 4/3.1 x 285 mm

135 Connector 2 Brass tube Oversize 3/2.1 x 12 mm

136 Fire monitor set 2 3D printed set Ready made

137 Handwheel 2 Etched / laser-cut Etched

138 Superstructure deck 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

139 Base rail, 10-part 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

140 Magnet support 2 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

141 Lower wheelhouse mounting frame 2 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

142 Lower wall, front / rear, side 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

143 Lower centre wall 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

144 Lower R.H. side 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

145 Lower L.H. side 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

146 Window frame, front / rear, centre 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

147 Window frame, side l.h. 1 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

148 Window frame, side r.h. 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

149 Window frame, side front / rear 2 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

150 Floor 1 ABS 6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

151 Upper mounting frame 1 Birch plywood 10 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

152 Rear command stand 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

153 Strut 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

154 Side wall+B198 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

155 Centre console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

156 Side console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

157 Card table 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

158 Side wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

159 Front console 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

160 Rear wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

161 Partition wall 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

162 Front command desk 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

163 Side panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

164 Centre panel 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

165 Strut 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

166 Roof 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

167 Lamp bracket 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

168 Upper door frame 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

169 Side door frame 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

170 Wall 2 ABS 4+6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

171 Door 2 ABS 4+6 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

172 Door latch, turnbuckle 20 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 10 mm Cut from part Z2

173 Mast base 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

174 Mast support 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

175 Front brace 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

176 Rear brace 1 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

177 Bracket 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

178 Tube bracket 2 ABS 8 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

179 Shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 14 mm

180 Cylinder 1 Plastic tube Oversize 4/2 x 38 mm

181 Piston 1 Plastic rod Oversize 2 Ø x 46 mm Cut from part Z8

182 Upper shaft 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 5 mm Cut from part Z11

183 Lower shaft 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 14 mm Cut from part Z11

184 Mast 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6.1 x 270 mm

185 Double lamp bracket 3 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

185.1 Single lamp bracket 3 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

186 Reinforcement 11 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

187 Aerial bracket 2 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 65 mm

188 Aerial 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 50 mm Cut from part Z2

189 Aerial 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

190 Flag holder 1 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 75 mm

191 Lamp bottom, lamp spacer 24 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

192 Lamp cap 12 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

193 Lamp lens 24 Plastic Ready made 6 Ø

194 Radar pillar 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6.1 x 70 mm

195 Radar pillar+B299 1 Brass tube Oversize 8/6/1 x 42 mm

196 Mounting plate 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

197 Cable tube 1 Plastic tube Oversize 8/7 x 190 mm

198 Radar unit 2 Ready made

199 Main deck / foredeck companionway 2 Nickel silver Etched

200 No part -

201 Companionway handrail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 60 mm Cut from part Z1

202 Companionway lower rail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 60 mm Cut from part Z1

203 Railing stanchion, oval 32 Nickel silver Etched

204 Main deck / superstructure companionway 2 Nickel silver Etched

205 Railing stanchion, round 56 Nickel silver Etched

206 Handrail 4 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 155 mm Cut from part Z2

207 Lower rail 4 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 155 mm Cut from part Z1

208 Ventilation grille 2 Nickel silver Etched

209 Spacer 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.G2760 mm

210 Stern light holder 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

211 Lamp holder 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

212 Tread 9 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

213 Wheelhouse companionway 1 Nickel silver Etched

214 Wheelhouse ladder 1 Nickel silver Etched

215 Searchlight box 1 Nickel silver Etched

216 Side plate 2 Nickel silver Etched

217 Cover 1 Nickel silver Etched

218 Swivel tube 1 Brass tube Oversize 3/2.1 x 22 mm

219 Swivel bracket 1 Nickel silver Etched

220 Tilt tube 1 Brass tube Oversize 2/1.1 x 35 mm

221 Tilt bracket 1 Nickel silver Etched

222 Pivot pin 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

223 Housing 1 Plastic tube Oversize 14/12 x 15 mm

224 Reinforcement 2 Nickel silver Etched

225 Backplate 1 Nickel silver Etched

226 Handle 2 Nickel silver Etched

227 Latch 4 Nickel silver Etched

228 Reflector 1 Ready made 12 mm ready made

229 LED 1 Ready made 5 mm LED

230 Lens 1 Vivak 9 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

231 Gusset plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

232 Brace 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

233 Angled plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

234 Slider plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

235 Side 4 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

236 Stopper 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

237 Stopper shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 30 mm Cut from part Z2

238 Retaining plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

239 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 9 mm Cut from part Z2

240 Crank 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 9 mm Cut from part Z2

241 Crankshaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 11 mm Cut from part Z3

242 Linchpin 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 20 mm Cut from part Z2

243 Double-T support 4 Plastic profile Oversize 5 x 5 x 27.5 mm Cut to length

244 Base plate 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

245 L.H. bearing bracket 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

246 R.H. bearing bracket 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

247 Shaft 1 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 79 mm

248 Reinforcement 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

249 Drive plate 3 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

250 Connecting plate 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

251 Plate 5 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

252 Distributor 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

253 No part -

254 Small cover 1 Nickel silver Etched

255 Guide 6 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 25 mm Cut from part Z2

256 Brake plate 6 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

257 Brake disc 9 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

258 Bearing 12 Plastic rod Oversize 3 Ø x 5 mm Cut to length

259 Adjuster screw 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 12 mm Cut from part Z2

260 Handwheel shaft 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 35 mm Cut from part Z2

261 Release clutch set 3 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

262 Metal lever 3 Nickel silver Etched

263 Plastic lever 3 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

264 Chain sprocket set 2 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

265 Cable drum core 1 Plastic tube Oversize 8/6 x 10 mm

266 Drum end plate 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

267 Capstan head 1 ABS 5 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

268 Spacer disc 2 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

269 Retaining plate 1 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

270 Pin 3 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 10 mm Cut from part Z2

271 Anchor 2 Ready made Ready made

272 L.H. base 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

273 Centre / R.H. base 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

274 Transverse base 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

275 Winch base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

276 Spacer rail 3 Square plastic Oversize 5 x 5 x 106 mm Cut from part Z9

277 Base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

278 Tubular guard 1 Plastic tube Oversize 7/5 x 54 mm

279 L.H. frame 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

280 R.H. frame 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

281 Front reinforcement, 5-part 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

282 Rear reinforcement, 5-part 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

283 Cross-strut 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

284 Bearing bracket 12 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

285 Cover 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

286 Cover 2 Nickel silver Etched

288 Anchor plate 8 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

289 Brake 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

290 Cylinder 2 Plastic rod Oversize 2 x 17 mm Cut from part Z8

291 Drum core 2 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 43 mm Cut from part Z6

292 Drum end plate+B360 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

293 Supplementary disc 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

294 Collet 2 Steel Ready mad 3 mm

295 Cheesehead screw 2 Steel Ready made M3 x 6

296 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 71 mm

297 Brake ring G ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

298 Guide shaft 3 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 60 mm

299 Guide bush 2 Plastic tube Oversize 4/3 x 15 mm

300 Base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

301 Side plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

302 Cover plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

303 Cable guide 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 11 mm

304 Guide plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

305 Hydraulic fluid tank 1 Plastic Oversize 25/21.6 x 40 mm

306 Cap 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

307 Flange 1 Nickel silver Etched

308 Retaining flange 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

309 Spacer ring 20 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

310 Control valve 36 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

311 Cover 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

312 Flange 2 Nickel silver Etched

313 Geared motor - - - - - Not included

314 Shaft coupling - - - - - Not included

315 R.H. fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

316 L.H. fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

317 Rear fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

318 Front fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

319 Cover plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

320 R.H. side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

321 Front side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

322 L.H. side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

323 Rear side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

324 Cover pate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

325 Flange 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

326 Cross-strut 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

327 Fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

328 Handrail 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 200 mm Cut from part Z2

329 Lower rail 2 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 100 mm Cut from part Z1

330 Rung 5 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 11 mm Cut from part Z2

331 Platform 1 Nickel silver Etched

332 Tugger winch base 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

333 Base and holder 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

334 Base plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

335 Strut 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

336 Bottom plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

337 Bearing plate 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

338 Top plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

339 Axle 4 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 19 mm Cut from part Z3

340 Roller 4 Plastic tube Oversize 3/2 x 19 mm

341 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 43 mm

342 Drum end plate 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

343 Drum 2 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 28 mm Cut from part Z6

344 Limiter disc 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

345 Brake disc 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

346 Side plate 4 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

347 Thickener 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

348 Brake 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

349 Brake shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 50 mm Cut from part Z2

350 No part -

351 Bearing bracket 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

352 Cover 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

353 Strut 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

354 Small gearbox 6 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

355 Capping disc 18 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

356 Flange 10 Nickel silver Etched

357 Forward working deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

358 Deck beam 7 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

359 Aft working deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

360 Deck bearer 1 Spruce strip Oversize 5 x 10 x 235 mm

361 No part

362 Wood deck, 7-part 1 Birch plywood 13 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

363 Towing bar 1 Plastic tube Oversize 10/8 x 200 mm

364 Towing bar template 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

365 Locating hook 4 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

366 Liferaft 2 Plastic Ready made

367 Holder 4 ABS 8 Ready made 2.0 mm

368 Lifebelt 4 Plastic Ready made

369 Anchor chain 1 Metal Ready made

370 Flag 1 Fabric Ready made

Z1 Brass rod for parts 201, 202, 207, 329 2 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 1000 mm

Z2

Brass rod for parts 106, 107, 127, 172, 188, 189,

206, 212, 222, 237, 239, 240, 242, 255, 259, 260,

270, 328, 330, 349

3 Brass rod Oversize 1.0 x 1000 mm

Z3 Brass rod for parts 241, 339 1 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 100 mm

Z4 Spruce strip for parts 20, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 3 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 1000 mm

Z5 Plastic tube for parts 94, 97 1 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 500 mm

Z6 Plastic tube for parts 132, 291, 343 1 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 250 mm

Z7 Plastic tube for parts 7, 37 1 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 200 mm

Z8 Plastic rod for parts 181, 290 1 Plastic tube Oversize 2 Ø x 80 mm

Z9 Square plastic strip for parts 129, 130, 276 1 Square plastic Oversize 5 x 5 x 1000 mmm

Z10 Square plastic strip for parts 70, 71 1 Square plastic Oversize 2.5 x 300 mm

Z11 Plastic rod for parts 182,183 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 20 mm

S1-S6 Schottel unit support set 1 Birch plywood 14 Laser-cut 3 mm

Overall view of the etched parts

285 Cover 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

286 Cover 2 Nickel silver Etched

288 Anchor plate 8 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

289 Brake 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

290 Cylinder 2 Plastic rod Oversize 2 x 17 mm Cut from part Z8

291 Drum core 2 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 43 mm Cut from part Z6

292 Drum end plate+B360 4 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

293 Supplementary disc 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

294 Collet 2 Steel Ready mad 3 mm

295 Cheesehead screw 2 Steel Ready made M3 x 6

296 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 71 mm

297 Brake ring G ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

298 Guide shaft 3 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 60 mm

299 Guide bush 2 Plastic tube Oversize 4/3 x 15 mm

300 Base plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

301 Side plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

302 Cover plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

303 Cable guide 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 11 mm

304 Guide plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

305 Hydraulic fluid tank 1 Plastic Oversize 25/21.6 x 40 mm

306 Cap 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

307 Flange 1 Nickel silver Etched

308 Retaining flange 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

309 Spacer ring 20 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

310 Control valve 36 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

311 Cover 2 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

312 Flange 2 Nickel silver Etched

313 Geared motor - - - - - Not included

314 Shaft coupling - - - - - Not included

315 R.H. fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

316 L.H. fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

317 Rear fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

318 Front fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

319 Cover plate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

320 R.H. side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

321 Front side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

322 L.H. side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

323 Rear side 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

324 Cover pate 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

325 Flange 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

326 Cross-strut 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

327 Fairing 1 ABS 2 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

328 Handrail 1 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 200 mm Cut from part Z2

329 Lower rail 2 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 100 mm Cut from part Z1

330 Rung 5 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 11 mm Cut from part Z2

331 Platform 1 Nickel silver Etched

332 Tugger winch base 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

333 Base and holder 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

334 Base plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

335 Strut 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

336 Bottom plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

337 Bearing plate 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

338 Top plate 2 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

339 Axle 4 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 19 mm Cut from part Z3

340 Roller 4 Plastic tube Oversize 3/2 x 19 mm

341 Shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 3 x 43 mm

342 Drum end plate 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

343 Drum 2 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 28 mm Cut from part Z6

344 Limiter disc 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

345 Brake disc 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

346 Side plate 4 ABS 3 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

347 Thickener 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

348 Brake 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

349 Brake shaft 2 Brass rod Oversize 1 x 50 mm Cut from part Z2

350 No part -

351 Bearing bracket 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

352 Cover 2 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

353 Strut 4 ABS 3+4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

354 Small gearbox 6 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

355 Capping disc 18 ABS 4 Laser-cut 1.5 mm

356 Flange 10 Nickel silver Etched

357 Forward working deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

358 Deck beam 7 ABS 1 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

359 Aft working deck 1 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

360 Deck bearer 1 Spruce strip Oversize 5 x 10 x 235 mm

361 No part

362 Wood deck, 7-part 1 Birch plywood 13 Laser-cut 1.0 mm

363 Towing bar 1 Plastic tube Oversize 10/8 x 200 mm

364 Towing bar template 1 Birch plywood 12 Laser-cut 3.0 mm

365 Locating hook 4 ABS 7 Laser-cut 2.0 mm

366 Liferaft 2 Plastic Ready made

367 Holder 4 ABS 8 Ready made 2.0 mm

368 Lifebelt 4 Plastic Ready made

369 Anchor chain 1 Metal Ready made

370 Flag 1 Fabric Ready made

Z1 Brass rod for parts 201, 202, 207, 329 2 Brass rod Oversize 0.8 x 1000 mm

Z2

Brass rod for parts 106, 107, 127, 172, 188, 189,

206, 212, 222, 237, 239, 240, 242, 255, 259, 260,

270, 328, 330, 349

3 Brass rod Oversize 1.0 x 1000 mm

Z3 Brass rod for parts 241, 339 1 Brass rod Oversize 1.5 x 100 mm

Z4 Spruce strip for parts 20, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 3 Spruce strip Oversize 4 x 4 x 1000 mm

Z5 Plastic tube for parts 94, 97 1 Plastic tube Oversize 7/6 x 500 mm

Z6 Plastic tube for parts 132, 291, 343 1 Plastic tube Oversize 12/10 x 250 mm

Z7 Plastic tube for parts 7, 37 1 Plastic tube Oversize 9/7 x 200 mm

Z8 Plastic rod for parts 181, 290 1 Plastic tube Oversize 2 Ø x 80 mm

Z9 Square plastic strip for parts 129, 130, 276 1 Square plastic Oversize 5 x 5 x 1000 mmm

Z10 Square plastic strip for parts 70, 71 1 Square plastic Oversize 2.5 x 300 mm

Z11 Plastic rod for parts 182,183 1 Plastic rod Oversize 1.5 Ø x 20 mm

S1-S6 Schottel unit support set 1 Birch plywood 14 Laser-cut 3 mm

Overall view of the etched parts

aero-naut ModellbauStuttgarter Strasse 18-22D-72766 Reutlingen

www.aero-naut.com

aeronaut

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and there are many more at www.aero-naut.com

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