International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)...

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International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton Committee International Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM) Stickiness WG Introduction GOURLOT Jean-Paul Bremen March 2010 CIRAD UPR102 Bremen, March 2010 Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation des fibres naturelles

Transcript of International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)...

Page 1: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)

International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness WG

Introduction

GOURLOT Jean-Paul Bremen March 2010

CIRAD UPR102

Bremen, March 2010

Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisationdes fibres naturelles

Page 2: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Agenda of the ITMF meetingStickiness WG/TFStickiness WG/TF

Gourlot J.-P., CIRADIntroduction bibliography and latest informationIntroduction, bibliography and latest information

Gozé E., CIRADMeasurements based on counts : variability and methods of analysis

Harzallah O., ENSISA LPMTAdhesion Energy study of some Physiological and d es o e gy s udy o so e ys o og ca a dEntomological sugars

Page 3: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Plan of presentation

I t d tiIntroduction

Stickiness: origins

Stickiness: measurementStickiness: measurement

Page 4: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Introduction

The challenge for cotton today

To remaincompetitive with

To maintainacceptable profitability incompetitive with

synthetic fibersacceptable profitability in

production

Reduction of the production and processing costs

Page 5: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Introduction

The challenge for cotton today

Cotton fiber stickiness Defects / Disruptions ofCotton fiber stickiness Defects / Disruptions of the spinning processes

Classer

Trader

SpinnerResearcher

Producer

p

P i di tHigher spinning costLower yarn quality

Price discount

Additional operationsLower yarn quality

Page 6: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Plan of presentation

I t d tiIntroduction

Stickiness: origins

Stickiness: measurementStickiness: measurement

Page 7: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Origins of stickiness

APHIDS

Vegetal parts

Oil traces

Stickiness Waxes

WHITEFLIESPlant sugars

WHITEFLIES

Insect sugars

Page 8: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Origins of stickiness

Mature boll covered with honeydew

Page 9: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Origins of stickiness

Mature boll covered with honeydew

Page 10: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Origins of stickiness

Main sugars (in %) determined by HPLC in aphid, whitefly and aleurod honeydew, h t d G hi t

Mono- Polysaccharides

harvested on G. hirsutum

Sucrose Trehalulose MelezitoseAphis

Insect Mono-saccharides

Polysaccharides

Aphis gossypii 25 12 1 38

B i iBemisia tabaci 19 16 44 17

T i l dTrialeurodes abutilonea 44 33 3 0

Source Hendrix et al., 1992

Page 11: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Origins of stickiness

Th t i t t f ti ki i d t• The most important cause of stickiness is due to these entomological sugars.

• Honeydew has now become one of the maincontaminants present in cotton.p

• Sticky points remain in the cotton from the field up toh i i h h d ithe spinning processes where they cause productionand quality losses.

• The behavior of contaminated fibres duringprocessing is highly dependent upon the quantity andp g g y p p q ythe type of the main sugars present in fibres

Page 12: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Plan of presentation

I d iIntroduction

Stickiness: origins

Stickiness: measurementStickiness: measurement

Page 13: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurement

Simple PerkinsFehlingColor reactionKOTITI

Chemical methods

Complex

KOTITI

HPLCGCp GC

Physical techniques Infra-red

Mechanical Mini-card

ITMF Reference methodSCT

H2SD

FCT / FQT

ITMF Recommended method

Thermo-mechanical

FCT / FQT

Quickspin

Page 14: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 15: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 16: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 17: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 18: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 19: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 20: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness measurementSome measuring devices for stickiness evaluation

Credit: M. Watson

Page 21: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Bibliography on stickinessg yCauses, measurements and

consequencesconsequences

GOURLOT J PGOURLOT J.-P.ICCTM-ITMF, Stickiness WG

Bremen, March 2010

CIRAD UPR102Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation

des fibres naturelles

Page 22: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Introduction of the bibliography

• In order to allow everyone to learn more about this contamination, we decided to prepare this extract of the available literature. We retained around 214 references out of thousands of available references, focusing on the cause of stickiness, on the possible means of evaluation and/or measurement and on major consequences during fibre processing.

• The initial bibliography covers a period going from g p y p g gthe 1960’s to 2008.

Page 23: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Observation

Numberof documents on stickiness

60

70

Number of documents on stickiness

40

50

60

20

30

40

0

10

20

0

Page 24: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Observation

Numberof documents on stickiness

60

70

Number of documents on stickiness

40

50

60

20

30

40

0

10

20

0

Page 25: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

PDF filePDF file

CIRAD UPR102Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation

des fibres naturelles

Page 26: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Thanks for attention and suggestionsThanks for attention … and suggestions

CIRAD UPR102Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation

des fibres naturelles

Page 27: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)

International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Stickiness WG

Latest information

GOURLOT Jean-Paul Bremen March 2010

CIRAD UPR102

Bremen, March 2010

Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisationdes fibres naturelles

Page 28: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2010ITMF ICCTM 2010

SYDEL SA M t lli FSYDEL SA, Montpellier, France manufactures SCT and H2SDLintronics: no news since 2008 and beforeKOTITI: prepared an ISO standards thatKOTITI: prepared an ISO standards that currently comes to the National Standardization Bodies (AFNOR, DIN, …)No (public) patent this yearNo (public) patent this year

Page 29: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2010ITMF ICCTM 2010

• SYDEL : Axes de développement de la nouvelle version (H2SDv2)– Coût Machine– Technologies Actuelles– Réduction du consommable– Des bases solides pour les développements futurs

• Différentiation du type de collage Mouche Blanche / Puceron (US patents)

• Evaluation du taux de collage par spectrométrie.– Un partenariat reconduit avec le CIRAD pour vérifier

le niveau de lecture et sa précision

Page 30: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Observation

Numberof documents on stickiness

60

70

Number of documents on stickiness

40

50

60

20

30

40

0

10

20

0

Page 31: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Latest information ITMF - ICCTM 2010ITMF ICCTM 2010

Cotton Contamination Survey 2009

30

Stickiness

27

21

24

perc

ent

15

18

151989 1991 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009

Thanks to M. Christian Schindler, ITMF

Page 32: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF ... · Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) International Cotton CommitteeInternational Cotton Committee on Testing Methods (ICCTM)

Thank you

forfor

your attentiony

CIRAD UPR102Laboratoire de Technologie et de Caractérisation

des fibres naturelles