Carrie

Gibson

Female Scout ‐ Expedition to 

CONTENTS 

 

Introduction, Aims and Objectives         Page 1 

Background of Scouting           Page 2 

Background information on Everest       Page 2 

Medical Information            Page 3 

Planning and Preparation          Page 4 

Choosing a company            Page 4 

The Route                Page 5 – Page 9 

What I’ve learned/Recommendations       Page 10 

Conclusion               Page 11 

Appendices 

Introduction  In 2007 Scouting Celebrates its 100th Year. Having had a very successful time in Venture Scouts and having received the Queens Scout Award, my past 17 years has been dedicated to being a Scout leader. I have gained so much through my involvement in the Scouting Movement and I really feel that it has helped shape me into the person that I am today. Having fun and meeting new people aside, the skills I have acquired include leadership, working with others, problem solving, citizenship and goal setting. Most of all, Scouting has introduced me to the outdoors and to the mountains that I now so dearly love. To show my gratitude, especially during the centenary year, I wanted to make the biggest impact. This meant joining the Scottish Scout Seven Summits Project – an expedition attempting to climb Mount Everest, the tallest mountain and the top of the world.

Aims  

I aimed to climb Mount Everest at 29,035ft (8850m) via the North Ridge.

In this the 100th year of Scouting I wanted to be shouting for Scouting in the most exciting way I knew how and what better way than to fly the centenary flag at the top of the world.

To be the first female Scout Leader to Summit Everest (Statistics are limited but as I am aware no female Scout Leader has previously stood on the summit as part of a Scout Expedition).

To become the 5th Scottish women to stand on top of the world.

Objectives  

To get myself fit and ready enough to give me a fighting chance of summiting.

To have the skills and knowledge to be able to look after myself on the mountain and maintain my health even when it gets tough or takes time to do so.

To raise awareness of Scouting and the benefits it can bring, through local and national press, and through the expedition web site www.sevensummits.org.uk

To return to Greenock, go out to local Scout groups and other organisations in Inverclyde and to help try to raise aspirations of the local people especially the young.

To put Greenock in the headlines for all the right reasons and not for stories that show Greenock in a bad light

Although a summit on Everest was all I could dream of, it was not to mean everything for me, as my own safety and the safety of those around me would be my main priority. For me to come back home safe and sound meant far more to my family and to those around me than a summit would ever mean. I personally believed that I could stay fully focused on a successful summit without it being “at all costs”. By just getting to Mount Everest, I felt I had already achieved “my own Everest”. This was far more than I could have imagined.

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Background of Scouting   One hundred years ago, General Sir Robert Baden-Powel hero of the British Empire, came up with an innovative idea! Having recognised the social problems in England and that youngsters had very little to do, he organised an outdoor camp in Dorset. His intention was to bring two very different groups of boys together to enjoy a week of fun and friendship. Half of the boys were described as street urchins, whilst the others, who were sons of majors, led a very privileged lifestyle far beyond the reach of the others. This major divide in background culture did not seem to matter, as they bonded over campfire activity, each learning how to skin rabbits, navigate the stars and tie knot. The success of the experiment on Poole’s Brownsea Island heralded the start of Scouting. It took just a year from that original Scout camp for the idea to reach Greenock where I stay. Following the success of this camp, Baden Powel began to publish “Scouting for Boys”. Boys all over the UK read this and so the Scout movement began. Visions and values that Baden Powell had then, remain the same now. It still has the original sense of adventure that my own Scouts love. Scouting has grown to become the world’s largest co-educational voluntary youth movement today. Not Even Baden Powel could have dreamt that 100 years after he ran that first experimental camp half a million people in the UK and 28 million people in 216 countries around the world, would come together on one single day to celebrate the past, present and future of Scouting at the sunrise celebrations in August this year. There are currently 450,000 scouts across the United Kingdom and 35,000 in Scotland that operates through 594 local scout groups.

Background Information on Everest    At 29,035 ft or 8,848 meters – Mt Everest stands five and a half vertical miles above sea level it is said by the Buddhists to be the home of the Gods. It was first recorded as “Peak b” by Sir George Everest in 1841, and re-surveyed as Peak XV – the highest mountain in the world - in 1852. Sagarmatha (goddess of the sky), Chomolungma (mother goddess of the universe Mount Everest will always entice Mountaineers. In 1924 George Malory and Andrew Irvine were lost on Everest, mystery surrounds what happened to them, and if indeed they did make it to the summit. When asked why he would want to climb Mount Everest George Mallory famously said “Because it’s there”. At 11.30 am on 29th May 1953 Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay stood 29,035 feet above sea level, they were standing on top of the world. They were the first men to summit Mount Everest. It wasn’t until 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan made the first successful summit by a woman. The main routes that Mount Everest is climbed; from China (Tibet) on its North Side and from Nepal on its South side. Each year Everest grows by about one quarter of an inch each year. Humans can’t live on Everest, at the summit there is about one third of the oxygen content that we breathe here at sea level and if you were dropped on the summit of Mount Everest you would die within minutes. It is said that only the strong and lucky survive but it is a place where dreams are chased each year. Choosing to go to climb Mount Everest is not a decision that you can take lightly and the following statistics might show why. Statistics on Everest are limited but by the end of 2001 there had been 1,501 ascents by 1,114 individuals of which 73 were women and unfortunately 171 deaths had been recorded at that time. The numbers in all

categories are however increasing rapidly each year. (Info from EVEREST, The Official History by George Brand).

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Medical Information  On the mountain itself I managed for the majority of time to stay fit and well, I was certainly happy to get to base camp as conditions on the way to base camp were not great, and unfortunately I was nauseous most of the way. I initially had mild AMS at base camp in the form of sore heads but they passed after I had managed to get to an altitude of 6000m in my acclimatisation walks. Although there was an extensive team first aid kit I carried with me a personal first aid kit which included: Nifedipine - Treatment of High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPE) Dexamethasone - treatment of High altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) (The only real treatment for AMS though is to descend) Diamox (I didn’t and have never used Diamox but I carried it just in case) Ciprofloxacin (antibiotic Stomach) Amoxicillin (antibiotic chest) Imodium Paracetemol Ibuprofen (for me this worked better than paracetemol but there is details that it can bring on Asthma at altitude) Strepsils Blister kits Plasters. Thankfully, other than Ibuprofen early on in the trip I was lucky enough not to need to use any other medication. The company also had with it two Gamow bags, which are portable compression chambers and were sited at Base camp and Advance base camp. We all had a training session on how to inflate the bag and its uses. I decided to stop taking an oral contraceptive for the time leading up to and the time spent on the mountain. There is an information sheet (UIAA Mountain Medical Centre information sheet 11) on the BMC website written by Dr Charles Clarke FRCP. “In general terms nearing the level of extreme altitude above 7000m it is prudent to avoid anything that could provoke fluid retention, increase blood clotting or possibly make the more serious forms of (AMS) worse. In general terms therefore I would not recommend that women take an oral contraceptives in these circumstances, though there is no absolute reason to give why they should not”. I used P20 sun cream as this can be applied before leaving the tent in the morning, to be sure you don’t miss any bits. I constantly applied lip balm that had a high factor sunscreen in it. Each night I used Blizteze to make sure my lips did not chap as this could lead to real problems eating and drinking. Hot pads I wore a “Buff” face mask to breathe through each day as I walked, as it seemed to help breathing in the cold dry air and I managed to not get a high altitude cough which is very common on all of the Himalayan Mountains. Hygiene is very important I used an alcohol spray, prior to coming into contact with any food. The cleanliness in the kitchen tent was second to none, this I’m sure was a major factor in enabling me to stay healthy and also well nourished. We had a good variety of foods and I’m usually a very fussy eater. All in all I didn’t really loose that much weight on the expedition. This had worried me before I left as I had heard lots of stories of people losing up to 3 stones in weight and at only 8 ½ stone this for me was a big worry. To supplement my calorie intake higher up the mountain when boil in the bag wasn’t what I wanted I drank Complan drinks which come in powder form so it’s easy to take up the hill and thankfully taste of hot chocolate.

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Planning and Preparation  For me planning on Everest would be key to my success, and that planning began long before I set foot on the mountain. I focused on 4 main areas:

• Fitness • Altitude Training • Technical Training • Attitude Training

My Fitness training comprised of running, cycling, swimming and weights sessions in the gym, along with spending at least every second weekend in the hills. Altitude training took me to Mera Peak, Island Peak and Lobuche East in Nepal, to Aconcagua in South America and to Chapayev and Khan Tengri in Kyrgystan. Technically I wanted to be sure that I could climb harder than I would be climbing on Everest and I really worked at improving my rock and ice climbing. Kyrgystan also allowed me to combine altitude and technical climbing which was a fantastic trip where the team were dropped in the middle of nowhere by helicopter to attempt previously unclimbed peaks. Being able to get to a high altitude one trip doesn’t guarantees success on all trips but it allows your body to remember how to cope with the effects of altitude. I deliberately set about going to places that took me out with my comfort zones and get me more used to exposure. Even if you are fit on Everest a Summit is not guaranteed. Every day I imagined what it would be like standing on the summit, I would run through the entire route in my head, telling myself how I would be feeling, what I would be wearing and making a conscious decision that I wouldn’t phone home until I was safely back down at Advance Base Camp as for me the summit was only half way through my goal.

Choosing a Company  Choosing a company to go on any expedition is a big decision but for Everest you have to be certain as you are not only investing a lot of money but ultimately you are trusting them with life decisions. For me it had to be a company that I could fully trust with the expedition set up to allow me time to concentrate on my training and fundraising. Adventure peaks fitted well with the Scouting ethos and my own, they use local workforce where possible they treat their Sherpa’s well, and where possible they remove all waste from the mountain. Adventure peaks have a good reputation and set up on the North side. (Previous Churchill Fellows have also used this company). They also have a proven success rate.

Another factor was that Adventure Peaks organise weekend meets and this would allow me to meet with other people that would be in the team as well as getting to know the staff. I also planned my last training expedition to Tien Shan region of Kyrgystan with Adventure peaks again giving me a good insight into the way the company runs expeditions. There are no easy routes on Everest but the North Col Route was chosen as although the more technically challenging route there was less objective danger (namely the Kumbu Ice fall). For me as a scout the North Side

also offered the chance to visit the highest campsite in the World. Adventure Peaks had a tried and tested acclimatisation plan in place on the North Side.

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The Route to the Summit   Leaving Kathmandu (Nepal) we travelled by bus to the border with Tibet and crossed over Friendship Bridge by foot. We then travelled by land cruisers stopping to allow for acclimatisation walks in Zangmu, Nylam and Tingri. From Tingri we go “off road” to base camp there is a road but you wouldn’t know it, it makes for an exciting ride! Base Camp was established at 5150m on the gravel outwash plain at the snout of the Rongbuk Glacier. Our acclimatisation walks took us on the hills around camp to a height of 6000m. The route from Base camp to Advance Base Camp (ABC) was 24 km long on the first journey up we stopped at a temporary intermediate camp. On one hand I was grateful not to be going up the whole way to ABC but intermediate camp is very basic so I was keen that this would be the only night I spent at this camp. The walk is over mostly bouldery moraine with some snow and Ice just after the Changtse base camp. The only hazard is avoiding the yaks as they carry all the expedition equipment past. If the weather closes in it can get very cold on this section especially early in the trip.

Climbing fixed lines on the North Col

5 ABC is situated at 6400m it was well equipped and comfortable, although it can be very windy, yaks had brought some of our personal equipment up to this point, and we would then start our carries to the higher camps. The fixed ropes begin at the foot of the North Col, it is quite steep and icy in places but steady climbing sees you on the North Col in just under 5 hours. The route to the 7800m camp is not too steep mainly snow covered until you get to about 7500m and then the route weaves through rocky steps, tents seem to be spread the whole way along the last 300m of the walk. This for me was a very long day and I became quite dehydrated as there was absolutely no escape from the sun. (On a day with poorer weather there would be no escape from the wind on this section) The walk is also pretty soul destroying as you can see most of the route from the moment you leave the North Col but you never seem to be getting any closer. It was a full day of walking and I arrived at the camp late after having to go on to oxygen at 7500m as I was moving fairly slowly, and felt very, very drained. There was very little space at this camp the slopes were steep and it was difficult to get enough room for the tent and part of it had to hang over the edge of the slope, thankfully it was well fixed on the other side. It was also very difficult to get to the tent without crampons on so you had to be very careful if you came out the tent at night.

At the North Col campsite 6

Leaving the 7800m camp I headed for camp at 8300m, it’s not too hard you walk over a mixture of snow, ice and rock. I felt a lot better than I had the previous day as after a good night sleep I had managed to eat and drink and rebuild my energy and I was now walking on supplementary oxygen on a low flow rate. I arrived in the top camp at 8300m just before 3.00pm Nepali Time. I got myself organised with what I would be wearing and taking to the summit. I then managed to have two complain drinks, I didn’t go to sleep, instead I just lay and relaxed, and went over the route to the summit in my head. I began to get ready at 8.00pm and at 9.00pm I was ready to leave the safety and warmth of the tent and head for the Summit. I climbed with another member of the Adventure Peaks Team, Dan and Lakpha one of the Nepali Sherpa’s. We set of at a good steady pace, perhaps too fast as Lakpha told me to slow down but I felt strong. It was pitch black, and I could see many torch lights ahead of us. It was snowing fairly heavily and there was quite an amount of new snow. Hood up to protect me from the wind all I could hear was the constant rasp of my breathing in my oxygen mask. We didn’t communicate much with each other, just a quick look round to check we were all ok. The first step is about 100ft high a basic scramble but at this altitude some of the pull ups were pretty tough. Climbing with your oxygen mask and goggles made it very difficult to see your feet.

On my way to 7300m 7

Above the first step is some mixed climbing but again not hard, but I was making very sure that I clipped in to each section of fixed line. Onward across a narrow ridge on the left the Kangshung Face and on the right the whole North Face, either way it is about 10,000ft down. On the way up it was still dark at this point so the magnitude of this part of the climb didn’t really hit me until the way back down. Then it’s onto the traverse to the Second Step. We were lucky to have left early enough that there were no hold ups for us at the second step. This is a steep 100 ft rock face with a lot of snow on it and extreme exposure. Dan set off first and I followed to reach the bottom of the ladder we had to climb an area that was banked out with snow and I was pleased to be on the ladder as it felt solid and safe until of course I had to step off it. I had started to climb the ladder before Dan was even off it and luckily for me Dan shouted back which rope he had clipped into, this made the whole process a lot easier as there is probably at least about 10 bits of rope all of varying levels of core showing. We couldn’t quite believe that we were above the second step and I think for the first time I knew for sure that I would summit although I knew also it was still a long way off. Another climb over mixed terrain and then onto the Third Step which I remember thinking “this is actually quite awkward climbing” weather that was the altitude kicking in, tiredness or just I had underestimated the third step I don’t know.

Next section is the summit pyramid a steep snowy triangle that we had a few hold ups on as something has happened a bit ahead of us, this was probably just at the worst time probably about 5.00am it was exceptionally cold when we got stopped and I quickly started to shuffle about on the spot, and clapped my hands together. Daylight was just approaching and I hoped the sun would hurry out. Finally we climbed out onto the summit ridge crossing narrow ledges to view the amazing cornices. Another 100m and we were there at 6.23am on the 16th of May, I stood with Dan and Lakpha on top of the world. I only spent a very short time at the top, to take some pictures and take in the view. I visualised each day before going what I would do when I got to the summit, and for a long time before I even left home, I had made the decision not to phone back to my parents from the summit. For me getting back down safely was far more important and only then could I celebrated my summit. Almost as if a switch flipped in my head I knew I just had to get down. By now the sun was beating down, it was very warm inside my down suit and dehydration was setting in. I got back to my tent at 8300m, I hoped to only have a wee snooze and then head out of the death zone and down to the camp at 7800m before darkness. Unfortunately I kept dozing on and off and never quite made it down to the next camp. Another of the team came into the tent, he had developed snow blindness which was very painful for him and made him scream a lot, I had developed a very stiff neck (probably the start of cerebral oedema) and so we spent a very uncomfortable and sleepless night. The next day the effects of staying at the high camp, being tired and not drinking enough was setting in and it took me a long time to get myself going and finally head back to camp. 36 hours after standing on the summit I descended the fixed lines from the North Col and was met by our Sidar O’neil, who walked the final part of the route back to ABC with me. I then managed to get a short call back to my parents to let them know I was safe and well, but totally exhausted. The following day I had a rest day whilst waiting for the rest of our team to descend.

8 Of the 13 climbers in the group 7 successfully stood on the summit along with 5 of our Nepali Sherpas, a very successful outcome! Then, all that was left to do was the walk to Base Camp one last time. I dawdled down the route savouring every moment of that last day the end to a perfect trip but in reality not really wanting it to end at all. We celebrated with Ganu our Base Camp cook who had prepared a feast for us and had even baked and iced a cake for us. The following day we once again travelled by jeep, stopping at the Rongbuk monastery, we had one last look at the mountain before heading back to Kathmandu.

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 16th May 2007 on the Summit of Mount Everest

5th Scottish Women 1st Scout leader to Summit as part of a Scout Expedition

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What I Learned  It is hard to summarise all that I have learned, as for me there has been a great deal of learning not only on the way to Everest but now in the months after my summit. The History of Everest has intrigued me and I have read so many books associated with Everest, about the Sherpa culture and way of life, about nutrition and medical problems at altitude, farfetched funny stories and real life tragedies. None of these would have meant so much to me until the seed of climbing Everest was planted, and I actually experienced the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. There it was a joy to see many different religions living side by side with no problems, a point that I raise when I’m out talking to children in the West Coast of Scotland. The Sherpa people live a life rich in many ways and it shows that happiness is not all about money. I have learned a lot about myself over this period, sometimes it is not until we are pushed to our limits that we can get the very most out of a situation. I know now that I handle myself well in difficult situations and that I can remain happy throughout and that I can keep going long after others thought I would give in. I have explored the power of self talk, visualisation and positive thought and I really feel that this was a crucial part of my success, and it is something that hopefully I can pass on to others when I am sharing my experiences with them. I have had the opportunity to renew my enthusiasm for Scouting and have looked very closely at the values and skills that scouting has taught me and have been able to pass this on to others when I am out spreading the

scouting word. I have had the opportunity to talk to many people especially climbers who said that they began climbing in Scouts.

Recommendations    Project 

• Start early with your report – It’s amazing how quickly 6 months passes especially if you then begin other commitments

• When contacting the press, make very clear to them who should be acknowledged in your piece as even though I mentioned WCMT in all my contacts, it didn’t always mean they put everything in the final piece.

The Climb  • Plan everything and run through your plans with people that have been • Try out all your kit the way you will be wearing it before you go • Force yourself to drink enough fluids and then drink even more • Look after yourself every day it only takes one wee bug to stop you • Tired as you will be when you return from the summit try not spend the night at the 8300m as it really

drains you

Fundraising • Contact local companies as unfortunately climbing Everest is not new but it could be a real buzz for the

local community start talking to the companies early. • Try to focus your fundraising efforts on big events, I had a ceilidh, I made sure it wasn’t an expensive

night to get in and the bar prices were fairly cheap and then people put more money into the raffles and other fund raisers on the night, the benefits were that people had a good night and it didn’t feel like they were getting ripped off.

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Conclusion   The message to scouting before the centenary was to get out and be noticed! I think with your help I have certainly managed that. I have become the 5th Scottish woman, and the first scout to summit Everest as part of a Scouting Expedition. I have managed to significantly raise the profile of Scouting, locally and nationally. My story has appeared in local and national press stories, radio presentations, Scottish Scouting and UK Scouting Magazines and even received mention in a motion debated in the Scottish Parliament to celebrate 100 years of Scouting. The front page of my local newspaper has shown my “good news” and pushed the “bad news” off it. I have begun the process of trying to raise aspirations in the young people of Inverclyde. My talks have been well accepted from local schools and scout groups.

I have inspired many in the local community and motivated people with my story, people I would never have met without your help. I feel that if people can see me, and see how I have got to the Top of the World, maybe, they can see themselves doing the same ( not necessarily Mount Everest) but striving towards their own goal, “their own Everest”, and if I inspire others to reach their goal mine will be all the more worthwhile. I have received literally hundreds of emails, texts, letters and phone calls offering congratulations on my achievement each very special to me but most notably from The Rt Hon Gordon Brown M.P and from Alex Salmond – First Minister for Scotland. The Scout Movement has awarded me “The Silver Acorn”.

Prayer Wheels in Kathmandu

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