Destinations Victoria December 2014

the ultimate resource for every kind of traveller 2015 edition 1

INNER CITYWelcome to the neighbourhood

FAR & WIDERegional escapes

THE INSIDERSTips from local legends

Savour the city

MULTICULTURAL DINING IN MELBOURNE

墨尔本的多文化饮食

victoriadestinations

4 | destinations VICTORIA

PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR

Ross Copeland

EDITOR IN CHIEFFreya Owen

EDITORCassy Polimeni

FEATURES WRITERNathan Scolaro

ART DIRECTION & DESIGNEva Herzog

Cheri HughesCathy SilvioAmy Tanner

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGERSue Kallincos

ADMINISTRATIONGina Copeland

SPECIAL THANKSPublicity Press Pty Ltd would like to express our gratitude to the

following individuals and organisations for their invaluable assistance:

Guy Grossi, Abla Amad, Ming Ding, Harry Tsindos, Vivien Nguyen – Tourism Victoria, Grace Christie, Cameron Ling, Lisa Barron, Gordon White, Denis Baguley, Terry Freeman, David Zhou, Paul Miragliotta

and Johanna Reilly – Kinfolk, Ashleigh Dyer – Harvey Publicity, Caryn Ng, Tina Orr – Media Moguls, Samantha Vassos – This Is Mango, Angela Dance – Horseback Winery Tours, Julie Sampson – Yarra Ranges Tourism, John Karmouche – HD Chaffeur Tours, Steven

Peppard, Phillip Island Helicopters, Lois Airs – French Island Tours, Port of Echuca Discovery Centre, Grampians Tourism,

Jane Webb – Flinders Hotel, Surf Life Saving Australia.

Destinations Victoria is published biannually.

All material in this issue is Copyright © 2014-15

Publicity Press Pty Ltd. All rights are reserved.

No part of the contents of this publication may be reproduced

without the prior written consent of the publisher or editor.

Articles represent the views of their authors and are not necessarily

those of the publisher or editor. All information included is correct at time

of writing, however some prices, events, venues and other information

may change with time. Readers are advised to check all details with

relevant providers before acting upon such information.

We’d love to hear of new destinations for inclusion in

future issues. Likewise, if some of our favourite haunts

have closed their doors, we look forward to visiting

whatever has opened in their place.

Destinations Victoria is produced by Publicity Press Pty Ltd ABN 31 005 490 068

1120 High Street (PO Box 8019) Armadale VIC Australia 3143

Ph: +61 3 9804 4700 Fax: +61 3 9804 4711 publicitypress.com.au

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Melbourne’s rich migrant culture has shaped the way we eat. In this issue, we meet TV chef Guy Grossi of Grossi Florentino, Merchant and Ombra; Abla Amad of Lebanese institution Abla’s; Mr

Ming Ding of legendary Peking duck house Dahu Peking Duck and the third generation owner of Tsindos, Harry Tsindos Junior. These culinary pioneers reveal how they started and share their passion for food.

We’ve rounded up some beloved local legends to bring you the inside story on where to go and what to do in Melbourne and beyond. Former captain of Geelong Football Club, Cameron Ling, reveals his favourite things about this football-loving town, WA import Lisa Barron shows us a stylish side of the city, Melbourne Museum Manager Gordon White shares his favourite places to take the kids, Shrine of Remembrance CEO Denis Baguley taps into the state’s wartime history and keeper of the roses, Terry Freeman, reveals how he gets the grounds of Flemington Racecourse looking as good as the punters come horseracing season. Legendary restauranteur and tea guru David Zhou, who moved to Melbourne from Shanghai in the 1980s, lets us in on local foodie delights and Paul Miragliotta of Kinfolk gives us an insight into Melbourne’s social enterprises.

You’ll also fi nd some of the best restaurants, bars, cafes and retail haunts this city has to offer amongst these pages, along with our guide to local attractions in the arts, history, heritage, sports and for the kids. Beyond the city centre, we walk you through Melbourne’s precincts, the inner enclaves north, south, east and west of the city that each have their own distinct personality.

Then we skip town and head for regional Victoria. Travel back in time in Victoria’s Goldfi elds or try your hand at glass blowing in Healesville with Nathan Scolaro. Hike the Grampians, pamper yourself in Hepburn Springs or explore Victoria’s High Country on a husky-drawn sled. John Karmouche shares his passion for riding Great Ocean Road on a the back of a Harley Davidson, and I go horseback winery hopping in Mornington Peninsula and spend an afternoon koala-spotting and scone-gobbling in the untouched paradise of French Island.

The best way to get to know any new destination is to take a tour with a local, so hit the road with us …

Happy trails!

CASSY [email protected]

A TASTE OFMELBOURNE

Editor’s Letter

Destinations Australia magazines

@destinationsmags

Happy trails!

CASSY POLIMENI

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8 | destinations Victoria

Melbourne | Cover Story

Melbourne’s rich migrant culture has made this city a melting pot for international flavours. Each dish tells a story, and who better to tell it than the dedicated chefs whose heritage fuels their passion to feed us. Nathan Scolaro meets four heavyweights of the local dining scene

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destinations Victoria | 9

Savour the city | Melbourne

Melbourne | Savour the city

GroSSI FlorenTIno

The Florentino building on Bourke Street has been home to an endless parade of restaurants since the early 1900s. Celebrity chef Guy Grossi bought it in 1999, and built on its reputation as one of Melbourne’s finest restaurants, offering beautiful Italian food that intertwines tradition and progress. Italian Australian Grossi discusses its place in history.

I’ve always been heavily involved in the Italian food scene, ever since I started working in the kitchen with my dad as a teenager. I think the food we’re making is far more authentic these days. Once upon a time there was a kind of Italian cuisine that was designed for the Australian palette. Now the palette wants something closer to the roots [of Italian cooking]. It’s “mamma mia” rather than something that’s appealing because it’s basic and familiar.

We’ve become a very sophisticated city in terms of our culture, food and the arts, but it was a very different scene when I entered restaurants as a 15 year old. Today it’s exploding with pizzazz. I believe a lot of that rapid evolution is due to the influx of cultures we’ve had. There’s no other country like it and it’s been an interesting industry to work in for that reason.

People are much more discerning about food now. Before a piece of steak was a piece of steak. These days there’s a lot more passion for the provenance of food, and a lot more interest in the concept of what you’re trying to put together.

I think that despite our busy lifestyle we’ve evolved into a culture that enjoys dining with other people. We love to sit down. We love to break bread and talk. Coming around the family table is becoming more and more important.

What we’re trying to do in the Grossi restaurants is create memories. We want people to be encapsulated from the

戈洛西佛罗伦帝诺餐厅 (GroSSI FlorenTIno)

自二十世纪初，位于伯克街 (Bourke Street) 的佛罗伦帝诺

建筑就成为无数餐厅竞相入驻的地方。著名厨师盖.戈洛西

(Guy Grossi) 于 1999 年购买了它，在其原有名气的基础上

将其打造为墨尔本最好的餐厅之一，为顾客提供融合传统与

现代的意大利美食。意大利籍澳大利亚人戈洛西谈到它的发

展历程。

自少年时代起，我就开始在厨房和爸爸一起工作，我对意

大利菜肴非常熟悉。我认为我们现在烹制的菜肴非常正宗。

以前，有一种专为澳大利亚口味而创造的意大利菜肴。而现

在，澳大利亚人希望能够追溯（意大利饮食的）根源。这是

一种“家常饭”的情结，不是追求外观的吸引，而是表达最

基本、最熟悉的情感。

我们的城市已经发展为在文化、饮食、艺术领域具有很

高品位的大都市；但在我还是一个 15 岁的少年，开始进入

饮食行业时，这里则是一幅完全不同的景象。如今，它在蓬

勃地发展。我认为这样迅猛的发展，在很大程度上是因为我

们民族文化的融入所带来的。没有哪个国家具有这样的特

色，所以这是一个非常具有吸引力的行业。

现在，人们对食物表现出更多的关注和很大的兴趣。如今

的人们对正宗风味的菜肴充满了激情，人们更加关注您想要

通过食物传递的文化理念。

我认为，无论平时生活多么忙碌，我们都热衷于和他人一

同进餐。我们喜欢坐在一起，边吃边谈。与家人一同进餐也

变得越来越重要。

我们在戈洛西餐厅要实现的是创造美好的回忆。我们希望

为顾客创造高品位的精神享受，离开俗世烦扰，体验世外桃



Cover Story | Melbourne

pavement to upstairs, to be transported into to something that is not quite real, to escape. It’s a privilege for us to have people come in here and spend four hours with us. That time is precious, it’s something we take seriously.

Our food is based on tradition. It has a history, but it’s been made new again, more elegant perhaps. It’s not just creation for creation’s sake.

Some Italian food is quite rustic, but I still think rustic can be elegant too. It’s in the eyes of the beholder. Take something simple like pasta fagioli, which is just a basic Venito soup. If you make it with love and make it properly, this bowl of brown soup with pasta and pancetta floating in it looks sexy. I want to dive in. It reminds me of home.

grossi.com.au

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Guy Grossi; Fremantle Octopus Pizzaiola; murals in the upstairs dining room depict life in Florence during the Renaissance; Grossi Florentino exterior; Guy discovered the ‘Testo’ pan on a recent trip to Tuscany and uses it to make Testaroli di Pontremoli, a pasta-like pancake that is boiled before being cooked in the pan and drizzled with olive oil, parmesan and basil.

源般的享受。我们非常荣幸地欢迎顾客的到来，在此与我们

共度四个小时的美好时光。这段时光极其宝贵，我们会非常

珍惜这段宝贵的时光。

我们的菜肴注重传统，有着悠久的历史，但也融入了新的

元素，或许是更为典雅的气息。菜肴并非为了创新而创新。

有些意大利菜肴具有很浓郁的乡土气息，但我还是认

为，这种乡土气息也可以进入高雅的殿堂。这是旁观者的看

法。以意大利豆汤而言，这是一道简单的菜肴，是威尼托区

(Venito) 常见的汤类菜肴。如果您用心对待，用爱烹制 …

这碗酱汤培根意大利面会让您垂涎不止。我现在就想饱餐一

顿，它让我想起家的感觉。

grossi.com.au

“If you make it with love … this bowl of brown soup with pasta and pancetta floating in it looks sexy. I want to dive in. It reminds me of home.”


Melbourne |Sports Insider

FOOTBALL FEVER

INSIDER

Cameron Ling

Cameron Ling was part of three successful premiership campaigns for Geelong Football Club, including one as team captain, before he retired in 2011. Now a Channel 7 AFL commentator, Ling is also involved with several bars and restaurants in Geelong

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Sports Insider| Melbourne

FOOTBALL FEVER

Geelong was a great place to grow up. I have very happy memories of my childhood there. Lots of space to run around and have fun and I was fortunate to have a great family around me.

I played 246 games for Geelong. The three [AFL] premierships are the greatest highlights in my career and something that I will never forget. Also getting to play alongside some great players and some wonderful friends was fantastic. These days, I am an AFL commentator for Channel 7.

I’ve retired from professional football, but I still love running and surfing. If I can get out and do these things at least a few times a week I can keep reasonably fit. Our main running track is along the bay between Port Melbourne and St. Kilda, but I also like to do the occasional lap of the Tan [a 3.8 kilometre loop around Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens] just to see how I am travelling with my running.

My perfect day in Melbourne would be one of those still, sunny days in spring or autumn, having lunch with my partner and our son at Sandbar Cafe on the Bay in Albert Park (sandbarbeachcafe.com.au) and then going to the MCG with some mates to watch a big game of footy with two good teams playing and a massive crowd.

I’m no coffee expert but I do enjoy an early morning coffee from Auction Rooms in Errol Street, North Melbourne, before I start work (auctionroomscafe.com.au).

There are so many great little pubs in Melbourne and I’m still discovering them, but I do love the feel at the Railway Club Hotel in Port Melbourne (railwayclubhotel.com.au) for a drink with mates, and a great feed too. For a special occasion, I absolutely love the steak at Rockpool in Crown (rockpool.com/melbourne).

There’s lots to do in Melbourne. I’ve been to some great concerts at the Myer Music Bowl and I love being outside listening to music (Kings Domain Gardens, Linlithgow Avenue). I love animals and always say I am going to visit the zoo but never do, hopefully I can take the family soon (zoo.org.au). Out of town, Jan Juc Beach is great fun. Good surf, good people and a beautiful spot.

If we were entertaining out of town guests I’d definitely take them down the Surf Coast, with a stop over for lunch in Geelong at Baveras Restaurant on the pier (baveras.com.au). OK, I am a bit biased [Ling is a Director of the Cunningham Pier venues], but there is no denying

it is a beautiful location. I’d also take them down Great Ocean Road to see the amazing views of the ocean and go for a surf somewhere along the coast, and finish with dinner at the Airey’s Inlet Pub in the beer garden (aireyspub.com.au).

The best times of year in Melbourne are autumn and spring. In autumn it’s the start of footy season which is exciting, there’s Easter surfing at Bells Beach and we have the best weather. Spring is footy finals and sitting outside on a nice day with a good meal and a couple of cold beers with friends.

You can spot a Melbourne local because they know where they are going, and they’re not fumbling with their myki card.

Melbourne is … vibrant, occasionally intimidating, sporty, cultured. DV

CLOCKWISE FrOm tOp LEFt: the railway Club Hotel in port melbourne; rockpool at Crown; Geelong vs North melbourne.


David ZhouINSIDER

TIME FOR TEABorn and raised in Shanghai, David Zhou arrived in Melbourne in 1989 with the dream of opening a small tea shop. More than two decades on, he operates four Oriental Teahouses, David’s Restaurant and upstairs drinking den Zhou Zhou. We asked the tea guru to spill the secrets on his new home town

When I was 29, I had an opportunity to come to Melbourne to work. At first it seemed very quiet to me, almost like the countryside. I was used to the busy city of Shanghai. I still miss the variety and choice of food and the buzz of people. The Melbourne dining scene is very competitive. There are still so many new restaurants opening every week and at the same time many closing down. Melbourne has become more value driven these days, and for many people value includes constantly coming up with new concepts in order to stay relevant.

Zhou Zhou is a bar above a busy teahouse, the kind of place you would have found in Shanghai in the old days – intimate with soul. The idea for Zhou Zhou came to me when we took over the site many years ago and had to chop off the existing pipes for the kegs during the renovation. It was very cool – an authentic tea house in a pub – but from time to time, I noticed customers left to go for [alcoholic] drinks after eating my beautiful dumplings. It was like they were silently asking me to reconnect the kegs. Now we have now done that, and in our style. You can comfortably enjoy our many craft beers, sake, wines and cocktails, and my Peking duck

Restaurant Insider | Melbourne

spring rolls, all under one roof (455 Chapel Street (upstairs), South Yarra). Working across five restaurants means I have five bosses! I also have five teams of staff and five groups of customers who all need to be kept happy, so it’s a lot more responsibility – it’s a good way to keep you slim! Each of my restaurants is special to me for different reasons. I love the country Shanghai atmosphere of David’s. I love the Chapel Street Oriental Teahouse because it’s my first one, it was the start of a family. If I had a day off I’d like to visit the Botanic Gardens, even though I’d be thinking I should get back to my restaurants. But I do get a different perspective from the trip. I really enjoy the views and it’s not far from the city. I also like grabbing something to eat at Donovan’s, and enjoying a lovely meal with my beautiful wife. It’s a very timeless space (donovanshouse.com.au). I love tea but I also drink coffee – and even craft dark beer now. I often go to Gaia in South Yarra. It’s a nice little place, good food and coffee, and the staff there know what I want (cafegaia.com.au). Café Di Stasio has good food and drinks and is a great place to catch up with friends (distasio.com.au). Otherwise we go wherever my lovely daughters want – I have a house full of women! I’m not much of a runner, but I do walk to my wine cabinets everyday. I would have liked to have been a boxer but I didn’t have the killer instinct. It’s good for keeping fit though, and I still bring a boxing glove with me wherever I go (a pair would take up too much space!) Melbourne is full of creative artists, you can hear and see such great quality just watching buskers. Go for a walk along the busy streets in Fitzroy, Brunswick and South Yarra and you will find talented live musicians. I enjoy taking my family to Red Hill wineries, and my daughters love the strawberry farms there. We also love Sorrento for a relaxed day out. I’d like to try mountain climbing in the Grampians. I enjoy a challenge and mountain climbing is quite thrilling. My favourite time of year in Melbourne is spring. The weather is perfect – not too hot or too cold. It’s the one season when Melbourne doesn’t go through four climate changes in a day! Melbourne is … versatile, comfortable, welcoming, trendy and home! DVT

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Paul Miragliotta is one of the dedicated volunteers who keep Kinfolk bubbling away. This inspired social enterprise serves sensational food and

coffee to city folk with 100 per cent of profits going to carefully chosen development projects. Paul doubles as a waiter and carpenter at Kinfolk

where his talents and unmistakable mop of hair have earned him the nickname, “Jesus”. Here, he shares his favourite Melbourne haunts

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Paul MiragliottaINSIDER


Kinfolk belongs to the community. The cafe redirects all profits to several local and international charities and the volunteer workforce increases the amount the cafe can give. People who have some free time can use it to effectively make financial contributions to the selected charities. Kinfolk’s philosophy is captured in what we do and how we do it and staff and volunteers work together daily to make it a success (kinfolk.org.au).

I take orders and run coffees. We swap around and share the dishes. I hadn’t done hospitality work before, but I quickly discovered that I really enjoyed it at Kinfolk and took care in what I was doing. Kinfolk has an energetic volunteer culture and a fun atmosphere which extends after hours when people get together in the cafe and organise activities like yoga or craft.

I’ve lived in Melbourne since 2006. I’ve been a radiographer, carpenter, farmhand and worked on a project called the South Melbourne Commons, which was a partnership between Friends of the Earth and the Father Bob Maguire Foundation. We developed a community hub that focused on sustainability and inclusion. These experiences have helped shape my next venture, Farmer Incubator.

Farmer Incubator will grow new farmers and amazing farm produce on a real working farm. It will create an opportunity for new farmers to start small and work cooperatively. Australia’s farmers are aging and we want to engage them with the next generation. We’re currently surveying farmers, you can find out more on our website (farmerincubator.org).

Some day soon the term social enterprise will be part of our vocabulary. There won’t be any need to explain what it is. Fortunately in Melbourne there are social enterprises that support social enterprises, like Social Traders (socialtraders.com.au), the School for Social Entrepreneurs (the-sse.org) and the Difference Incubator (thedifferenceincubator.com) to name a few. In order to fulfil their mission, social enterprises must compete in the market. Melbourne social enterprises are now taking this seriously and their products and services aren’t daggy or hippy. The food on the Kinfolk menu is brilliant, dare I say gourmet.

One of my favourite outdoor spaces is CERES. When friends visit from out of town, I am excited to show them around the space. It’s in Brunswick, but being there doesn’t feel like the city at all. I always have a look at what people are growing in their community garden plots. I think the dam they have is beautiful – it always has water and contains diverse plant species (ceres.org.au).

Where I live in Brunswick, cafes now outnumber people 2:1, so you’re never far from good coffee! I recently went to Pope Joan for lunch (popejoan.com.au). It’s much bigger inside than it looks. They sell locally made ice creams called Brunswick Blocks that are super yum. I think I’ll start eating them every day. They seem healthy, so it could work. But of course my favourite cafe in the universe is Kinfolk. Yes, I am biased.

After my shift at Kinfolk I’ll have a drink at the Savoy, which has reopened next door (thesavoytavern.com.au). The architects and builders successfully reused materials from the old building. It still has a 70s feel and they have laid fresh carpet which isn’t sticky yet and should absorb most of the noise when it gets full of Melbourne folk after work on Friday. It’s easy to find over the road from Southern Cross Station.

I like to run wherever there are tall, shady trees. Running through places like the St Kilda Botanical Gardens is great, because they label trees with common and botanical names, which you can try and commit to memory while exercising. In one such Melbourne park at the end of this summer I found huge bunya nuts at the base of a tree called Araucarica bidwillii. These native nuts are edible. Yo and Claire from Kinfolk got experimental with them in the kitchen – bunya nut pancakes, anyone?

Autumn is a special time to be in Victoria. It’s not too cold yet and mushrooms grow. I went to Wilson’s Promontory last weekend. You can hike in and camp near the beach. While hiking through the forest, look out for edible mushrooms [but make sure you know how to tell them apart from the poisonous ones! – Ed]. I can’t describe in words how beautiful it is there. I recommend stopping on the beach and slowly rotating 360 degrees.

If it’s your first time in Melbourne, take the train to Flinders Street station. Exit via the underpass – a long, pink corridor with mysterious art – and emerge at Degraves Street. Coffee heaven. Best first impression of the city.

Melburnians are easy to recognise, everyone knows they wear only Melbourne black! I’m no different. I have a (locally made) black t-shirt with tiny stars that glow in the dark.

Melbourne is … flecks of rain, coffee, endless. DV

Cafe Insider | Melbourne

OPPOSITE PAGE: Freshly brewed coffee and scenes from a Kombucha workshop run by Paul at Kinfolk. Kombucha is a fermented tea drink that can be taken as a probiotic.

From quirky laneways to historic arcades, sprawling department stores to discount warehouses, shoppers of every variety will find their bliss in Melbourne

LanewaysWith eclectic laneways, historic buildings and stylish new boutiques, even the stores in fashionable Melbourne look the part. From the quintessential retail strips of Flinders Lane, Collins Street and Little Collins Street, detour down cobble-stoned laneways and discover clothing, jewellery and art around every corner. Quirky stores sit comfortably alongside big labels, and fantastic cafes serve up all manner of delicious fare to fuel your shopping. arcadesThe European-inspired beauty of the National Trust-listed the Block Arcade offers you a unique shopping experience under the building’s impressive glass roof. Here you’ll find jewellers, chocolatiers and the famous Hopetoun Tearooms. Royal Arcade links Little Collins Street to Bourke Street Mall and Elizabeth Street, and is home to sweet treats and jewellery, or head to Cathedral Arcade for one-off reworked garments and accessories. Recently redeveloped, The Strand on Elizabeth Street links Lonsdale Street with Little Bourke Street, and combines fashion and lifestyle stores in a modern arcade.

Where to

shop购物乐园

城市小巷引人入胜的小巷、古色古香的建筑、时尚新颖的精

品店，在墨尔本，时尚气息无处不在。从弗林德斯

路 (Flinders Lane)、科林斯街 (Collins Street) 和小科林斯街 (Little Collins Street) 等经典零售商

业街蜿蜒而下，徜徉在铺满鹅卵石的小巷中，您可

随处寻觅心仪的服装、首饰和艺术品。特色商店中

大牌云集，雅致的咖啡厅提供各种价位的饮品，为

您的购物更添乐趣。拱廊商场漫步在被列为保护文物的街区拱廊商场，置身优

雅的欧式购物殿堂，您可在精美的玻璃天穹下尽

享无与伦比的购物体验。在这里您可以找到流光

璀璨的珠宝、缤纷美味的巧克力和著名的 Hopetoun Tearooms 茶餐厅。皇家拱廊连接着小科林斯街 (Little Collins Street) 和伯克街购物中心 (Bourke Street Mall) 以及伊丽莎白街 (Elizabeth Street)，这里汇聚各种精品美食和珠宝，随后即可前往大

教堂商场 (Cathedral Arcade) 造访复古服装和饰

品店。经过新近改造，位于伊丽莎白街的史特莱特

商场 (Strand) 将朗斯代尔街 (Lonsdale Street) 与小柏克街 (Little Bourke Street) 连接在了一起，并

将时尚与生活馆融入这一现代化的商场之中。

MeLbourne | Shopping


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MaLLs and MoreBourke Street Mall is a pedestrian strip located between Swanston and Elizabeth Streets, home to David Jones, Myer and Melbourne’s GPO, a shopping arcade inside the former Melbourne General Post Office that now houses H&M’s flagship store and Larsen Jewellery. Emporium Melbourne on Lonsdale Street is home to Australian and international designers, innovative concept stores and world-class architecture. A couple of blocks away, QV is a microcosm of Melbourne, interlaced with intimate laneways and an eclectic mix of shops and cafes. Nearby Melbourne Central is your one-stop shopping, eating and entertainment destination, and at the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street is Collins Place, home to cinemas, dining and local and international brands, while Collins234 is the place to find unique fashion, beauty and speciality retailers. A vibrant shopping and entertainment destination on the banks of the Yarra River, Southgate offers a mix of dining options along with fashion, accessories, gifts and homewares.

northern LightsIf you’re in the mood for quirky local talent, head north of the city to Fitzroy, Collingwood and Carlton, and peruse the boutiques and stores along fashion-forward strips such as Brunswick Street, Gertrude Street and Smith Street in Collingwood and Fitzroy, or Lygon Court in Carlton. Sydney Road in Brunswick is an exciting mix of independent designers, galleries, cafes and restaurants.

southern charMMelbourne’s south-east is packed with stylish shopping neighbourhoods. From High Street, Armadale, where you’ll find leading fashion labels, art and antique galleries, quality jewellery and one of the city’s largest collections of bridal boutiques, to Camberwell Junction, home to over 400 stores including fashion, food, beauty, an undercover fresh food market and the Rivoli Cinema, with its art deco charm. Chapel Street is a walkable shopping strip running through South Yarra, Prahran and Windsor, with each stretch displaying a distinct personality. South Yarra is cafes, chic designer boutiques and the iconic Jam Factory, while Prahran is jam-packed with its own brand of boutiques, a bustling cafe strip and unique hot spots like stylish Pran Central and funky Greville Street. Windsor is for treasure hunters with rare books and antiques nestled up against a relaxed restaurant and bar scene. In Toorak Road South Yarra, get your fill of gifts, homewares, lighting and leather goods or experience Toorak Village, which has been called “the Rodeo Drive of Australia”.

购物商场及其他伯克街购物中心 (Bourke Street Mall) 是一条步行

街，位于史旺斯敦街 (Swanston) 与伊丽莎白街之

间，这里汇集了戴维•琼斯 (David Jones)、玛雅 (Myer) 以及墨尔本 GPO (这是坐落于墨尔本前邮

政总局内的购物商场，现汇集了 H&M 旗舰店和拉

森珠宝店 (Larsen Jewellery) 等名店)。位于朗斯

代尔街上的新墨尔本商场 (Emporium Melbourne)，汇集了澳大利亚本土和国际知名设计师的创意概

念店以及世界名店。几个街区之外的 QV 有如墨尔

本的缩影，坐拥数条舒适的小巷及各色商店和咖

啡馆。附近的墨尔本中央商场 (Melbourne Central) 是一站式购物、美食和休闲的潮流胜地，而闻名遐

迩的 Collins Place 购物商场位于科林斯街的巴黎

风尚专区 (Paris end)，集电影院、咖啡馆和国际品

牌于一体。Australia on Collins 是另一个必到的

购物目的地，这里拥有 60 多家专卖店，而在 Collins234, 您能找到别具一格的时尚、美容和零

售专卖店。位于雅拉河畔的索斯盖特 (Southgate) 商场是活力四射的购物和娱乐胜地，提供丰富多

彩的餐饮选择以及时尚、配饰、礼品和家居用品。

北方之光 (northern Lights)如果您想猎奇或对当地手工艺品感兴趣，可前往市

北部的菲茨罗伊 (Fitzroy)、科灵伍德(Collingwood) 及卡尔顿 (Carlton)，仔细寻访布朗斯威克街 (Brunswick Street)、格特鲁德街 (Gertrude Street)、史密斯街 (Smith Street) 及 Lygon Court 等前卫街

道两旁的精品店铺。布朗斯威克的 “悉尼街” 云集

了独立设计师、画廊、咖啡和餐馆，丰富多彩，令人

目不暇接。

南方魅力 (southern charM)墨尔本的东南区域遍布着许多时尚的购物中心。

在阿玛戴尔 (Armadale) 的时尚街区，时尚名品、

艺术品和古董画廊、顶级珠宝和配饰应有尽有，

更有该市最大的一家婚礼精品店，而坎伯韦尔交

通枢纽 (Camberwell Junction) 更云集了 400 多间商铺，包括时尚、美食、美容、封闭式生鲜食

品市场以及极具装饰艺术迷人氛围的 Rivoli 影

院。教堂街 (Chapel Street) 是一条商业步行街，

横跨南雅拉 (South Yarra)、帕拉罕 (Prahran) 和温莎 (Windsor) 三个郊区，每个街区都有不同特

色，是休闲步行购物的好去处。南雅拉区分布着

咖啡馆、时尚设计师精品店和招牌果酱工厂 (Jam Factory)；而帕拉罕区则遍布着自主品牌的时装

精品店、热闹的咖啡馆以及一些风格独特的热门

地点，如时尚的帕拉中心大街 (Pran Central) 和新潮的格维街 (Greville Street)。温泽区是寻宝者

的乐园，珍本书籍和古董比比皆是，周围则是散

发着轻松氛围的餐厅和酒吧。在南雅拉区的图拉

克路 (Toorak Road)，您可以尽情购买礼品、家

用品、灯光设备和皮革产品，或者可以游览图拉

克小镇 (Toorak Village)，这里被称为“澳大利亚

的罗迪欧大道”。

Shopping | MeLbourne



Melbourne’s inner south is a treasure trove of al fresco dining and shopping, seaside adventures and green outdoor spaces

PORT OF CALLOnly 10 minutes from the city, Port Melbourne is a sunny bayside suburb with gleaming modern architecture, but look closer and you’ll find restored workers cottages and grand old pubs that pay homage to an earlier era.

Relax in Beach Street’s cafes, dress up for beachfront beverages, or dip your toes in the water. People-watch from one of the pier-side restaurants as the Spirit of Tasmania ferry arrives, and the international cruise ships dock.

Back on Bay Street, scout quality coffees at Balderdash (balderdashcafe.com) and My Sister Says (118 Bridge St, (03) 9646 1117). Shop up a storm at Bay Street’s swanky boutiques and absorb a spot of culture at MARS Gallery (marsgallery.com.au). The Graham (thegraham.com.au), The Local (thelocalportmelbourne.com.au) and the Railway Club Hotel (railwayclubhotel.com.au) will set you up with frothy boutique beers and top-notch pub grub, while Rose Bar & Diner (rosediner.com.au) and Dalmatino (dalmatino.com.au) provide alternative dining options. You need to retreat from the waterfront to find the suburb’s best coffee, with Salford Lads Club (salfordladsclub.com) and Station Street Trading Co. (166 Station Street, (03) 9646 6663) both worth a detour.

PARK LIFEJog or cycle around Albert Park Lake or join the locals for a sail. In March the party starts when the surrounding roads are transformed into track for the Grand Prix. Swim, shoot hoops and swat shuttlecocks at the Melbourne Sports and Aquatic Centre (msac.com.au), and up your handicap at the championship public golf course or Albert Park Driving Range (albertparkdrivingrange.com.au).

When the racing stops, return to a peaceful post-Grand Prix Albert Park to explore the Victorian shopfronts of Bridport Street and Victoria Avenue, from Paloma Bleu’s footwear (palomableu.com.au) to Empire Vintage (empirevintage.com.au).

Lose an hour or two at Avenue Bookstore (avenuebookstore.com.au), replenishing next door at Albert Park Deli (albertparkdeli.com.au) or with ice-cream from Jock’s (83 Victoria Avenue, (03) 9686 3838). Turn Japanese at Misuzu’s, go for designer pub grub at the Albert Park Hotel (thealbertpark.com.au) or dine on the lake itself at The Point (thepointalbertpark.com.au). Gaze at the city lights from Kerferd Pier, shop for fresh produce or see independent performances at Gasworks.

There are refueling options aplenty in nearby South Melbourne too. Start the day with a lazy brunch on Clarendon, Dorcas, Park or Bank streets. Consume caffeine at St Ali (stali.com.au) and Dead Man Espresso (deadmanespresso.com.au), or stock up on fresh produce at the South Melbourne Market for a picnic by the seashore or Albert Park Lake (southmelbournemarket.com.au). Browse specialty shops along Coventry Street, pop in for a treatment at a nearby salon, and find imported antiques and homewares at Izzi & Popo (izziandpopo.com.au).

TRAM: Number 109 (to Port Melbourne) from Collins Street (about 20 minutes).

BUS: Number 238 from the corner of Collins and Market streets to Bay Street (about 25 minutes).

TRAM: Number 112 from Collins Street (around 10 minutes), Number 1 from Swanston Street (around 10 minutes), or Number 96 from Bourke Street to Middle Park (around 20 minutes).

Getting there Getting there

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PRECInCTs | Inner South

Viva La Franki – pop-up store at SO:ME Space, South Melbourne Market


Inner South | MELbOuRnE

bAYsIDE GEMsWelcoming Elwood sits pretty by the bay. Spend an afternoon in Elwood Village, where you’ll find some truly unique shopping options, from health food shops, to handmade goods and treasures from afar. Grab a bite at inviting eateries like trendy Turtle Café (theturtlecafe.com) before you hit the beach or return to the shops.

Further south is Brighton, one of Melbourne’s most exclusive suburbs and home to a diverse selection of shopping precincts. Along Church Street you’ll find supermarkets, a cinema and a selection of high-end fashion and beauty stores including Country Road, Siricco and Witchery. Bay Street in North Brighton is home to cafes, restaurants, fashion and gift shops. Outside Gardenvale Station is Martin Street where you can purchase gifts and fashion, settle in with a glass of wine at Wine Larder (winelarder.com.au) or grab some fish and chips for the road.

Pedestrian and bike path runs along the foreshore, lined with parks perfect for picknicking. The Middle Brighton Baths were built in 1881 and continue to provide opportunities for exercise and play, as well as an onsite cafe and gym (middlebrightonbaths.com.au). Designated areas of Brighton’s beaches are perfect for windsurfing, and waterskiing and when the breeze picks up the skies will often be decorated with the vibrant sails of kitesurfers. Get schooled in the art form or hire a board from the experts, like RPS The Board Store (rpstheboardstore). Finally, don’t miss the brightly coloured bathing boxes on the Dendy Street Beach. DV

BUS: Routes 246 & 600 to Elwood

TRAIN: Take the Sandringham line to Brighton Beach, Middle Brighton, North Brighton or Gardenvale (around 20-25 minutes)

For more information, go to visitvictoria.com.au

Getting there

BORDER

FROM TOP: Scenes from South Melbourne Market including Klopper wares; tacos at Paco Y Lola; Koy Restaurant; cooking gozleme.

Rose Diner, Port Melbourne

Izzi & Popo, South Melbourne

Whether you crave adventure, indulgence or relaxation, Victoria’s regions have got you covered. Leave the city behind and experience a different way of life

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Yarra ValleYIndulge in premium food and wine and enjoy secluded accommodation and galleries set amidst the abundant vineyards and farmland of the Yarra Valley. A hot air balloon ride is an unforgettable experience that will allow you to take in sublime scenery like the Healesville and Yarra Glen vineyards, and green valleys and pristine rivers around Marysville and Warburton. Descend to a winery for a breakfast of local produce and sparkling wine and spend the rest of the day visiting the cellar doors at hallowed winemaking institutions or undiscovered gems. Pick up gourmet treats at farmers’ markets, survey the work of local artists at TarraWarra Estate, and finish with dinner at a winery restaurant like Locale at De Bortoli, Stones of the Yarra Valley, or Eleonore’s at Chateau Yering. Then pay a trip to Healesville Sanctuary and get up close with Australian wildlife like koalas, kangaroos, wombats and the elusive platypus.See our Yarra Valley experience on page 130

Mornington PeninsulaFor the best of coastal living a short drive from the city, head to Mornington Peninsula. Explore galleries, spas and cafes in seaside villages, cool off at the beach, or escape to the hinterland for gourmet delights at boutique wineries. Wind around the eastern side of Port Phillip Bay taking in vast ocean views. Pass quaint bathing boxes strung along the beachfronts of Dromana, Rosebud and Mornington, and head inland through rolling hills to orchards, market gardens and wineries. Spend a morning boutique shopping

Country

life乡村生活

雅拉河谷 (Yarra ValleY)雅拉河谷一派青葱浓郁的景象，在这里，您可以纵情享受美

酒佳肴，逸身于幽静清雅的旅社，醉心于数不胜数的葡萄园

和农田中的艺术画廊。一次热气球之旅会让您终生难忘：

从高空俯瞰，美景尽收眼底：希斯维尔，雅拉格兰葡萄园，

马利斯维和沃伯顿周边的青翠山谷以及原始河流会让您流

连忘返。到葡萄酒庄享受早餐，当地的美食和气泡酒让您百

尝不厌，随后，您可以造访神圣的酿酒作坊，光是那些酒窖门

就能让您心生荡漾，那里还有无数宝地等着您去发现。您还

可以前往农贸市场挑选美食、在塔拉沃拉庄园 (TarraWarra Estate) 研究当地艺术品，然后在德保利酒庄 (De Bortoli) 的 Locale 餐厅、Stones of the Yarra Valley 餐厅或雅龄庄园 (Chateau Yering) 的 Eleonore’s 餐厅等酒庄餐厅享用晚餐。

然后去希尔斯维尔野生动物保护区 (Healesville Sanctuary) ，亲近澳大利亚的野生动物，树袋熊、袋鼠、袋熊和罕见的鸭

嘴兽会让您耳目一新。

如果您想了解我们在雅拉河谷的体验，请查看第 130 页

莫林顿半岛 (Mornington Peninsula)要体验绝佳的海岸生活，从市中心驱车一小段，直达莫林顿

半岛即可如愿。这里，您可以探寻艺术画廊，体验海边小村的

温泉浴场和温馨咖啡馆，您也可以在沙滩上放松自我，或悄

悄地去岛上的精品酒庄寻觅美食。漫步于菲利普港湾的东边，

您可以醉心于浩瀚无边的海景。在德罗玛纳、罗斯蒙特和莫

宁顿海滨排列着一些奇特的更衣室，穿过这些更衣室，一直

向内陆前行，经过延绵起伏的山丘，您可以造访片片果园，蔬

菜农场和不计其数的酒庄。花上一个上午的时光，淘淘索伦托

的精品店，然后在弗林德斯最高处的高尔夫球场打一场高尔

夫。您可以款待下自己，去艾家的温泉里泡个澡，或者奔向


Pelicans, Lakes Entrance

The Nobbies, Phillip IslandGolf, Mornington Peninsula

Phillip Island Nature Park

in Sorrento, then tee off from the cliff-top golf course at Flinders. Treat yourself to a soak in Rye’s thermal mineral pools, or head to the top of Arthurs Seat for panoramic coastal views. Stay a night in the old Keeper’s Cottage at the Cape Schanck Lightstation and be soothed by the sounds of waves crashing on the shore. Linger over feasts at seaside restaurants in Portsea and Mornington, or tuck in among the vines at any of the celebrated winery eateries around Red Hill and Main Ridge. Catch a wave at surf beaches, scuba dive around the Portsea pier reef system, and frolic with the seals and dolphins in the waters off Sorrento. See our Mornington Peninsula experience on page 132

PhilliP islandNature and wildlife abound at Phillip Island. Get up close to little penguins, come face-to-face with snoozing koalas and cheer on Grand Prix heroes as you savour every inch of this fun-filled island that is just 90 minutes from Melbourne and accessible by bridge. Unwind in the seaside village of Cowes and enjoy holidays as they used to be. Take your position front and centre for the famous Penguin Parade or check out the seal colonies from the boardwalk at The Nobbies. Grab your towel and cool off with a dip at any of the picturesque beaches before heading to the world famous Grand Prix circuit. Catch major events including the Moto GP and V8 Supercars or rev up in a go-kart. Wind down afterwards with a stroll around shops, galleries, cafes, pubs and restaurants, then pick up fresh seafood or catch your own in Newhaven. Take the kids to Churchill Island, the site of Victoria’s first European settlement, or hit the waves at Cape Woolamai, one of the state’s best surf beaches. Wander along Rhyll beach and absorb the relaxed atmosphere of the esplanade, stand cheek to furry cheek with koalas at the Koala Conservation Centre or spot birdlife at Rhyll Inlet. If you are visiting over the warmer months, more than one million shearwater birds make a spectacular return to the island’s shores each night. These birds journey from Alaska to Phillip Island at exactly the same time each year, arriving in October and departing again in April. They are a sight to behold!See our French Island experience on page 134

giPPslandJust three hours from Melbourne, Wilsons Promontory is popular with lovers of the outdoors for its stunning bush and coastal scenery and acclaimed walking trails. Central Gippsland is gourmet country, dotted with wineries, cheeseries, farmers’ markets, and fruit and berry farms.

亚瑟王座山，俯瞰海岸风光。在夏内克海角莱斯西恩酒店里

过上一晚，海浪拍案的声音将抚慰您入梦。流连忘返于波特

西和莫林顿酒店的宴席，或在红山和主山脊周围葡萄藤掩映

中著名的酒庄餐厅尽情地享受美食醇酒。去冲浪海滩追浪，

去波特西的码头暗礁中潜水，与从索伦托顺流而下的海豹和

海豚嬉戏。

如果您想了解我们在莫林顿半岛的体验，请查看第 132 页

菲利普岛 (PhilliP island)菲利普岛上植物繁茂，野生动物不计其数。您可以亲近小企

鹅，与打着盹儿的考拉面面相觑，为格兰披治大赛车的大英

雄们欢呼喝彩。这个无时不刻让您体验到独特风情的小岛与

墨尔本相距仅 90 分钟的路程，通过一座桥就可以直达岛上。

在考兹的海边小村，您可以全身心放松，享受绝美的假期。在

前排或中间的位置观看著名的企鹅归巢，在诺比司观看完海

海豹聚集地后从木板路上返回。在动身前往世界闻名的格林

大奖赛赛道前，您可以带着毛巾去任何一个风景如画的海滩

洗个澡，放松身心。主要的赛事有 GP 摩托车赛，V8 超级房

车赛，卡丁车大赛。随后轻松地漫步于商店，艺术画廊，咖啡

馆，酒吧和餐厅之间，再美美地吃顿新鲜美味的海鲜，或者在

纽黑文观看自己想看的赛事。可以带孩子们去丘吉尔岛，那是

维多利亚人的第一个欧洲定居地；或者可以带他们去澳大利

亚最好的冲浪海滩——乌拉迈角赶海。恣情徘徊于莱尔沙

滩，忘情地享受游憩场轻松自在的氛围；在考拉保育中心抚

摸毛茸茸的小考拉，或在莱尔港观看鸟儿。在暖和的月份，每

天夜晚，您能看到数以亿计的海鸟飞回岸上，场面壮观无比。

这些飞鸟每年都在固定的时间从阿拉斯加迁徙回菲利普岛，

十月到达，次年四月又离开。这些景致值得一见！

如果您想了解我们在菲利普岛的体验，请查看第 134 页

吉普斯兰 (giPPsland)从墨尔本出发，三个小时后即可到达威尔逊岬，威尔逊岬备

受户外活动爱好者的青睐，那里有迷人的丛林，旖旎的海岸

风光，广受称赞的步行道。中吉普斯兰是美食之乡，遍布着众

多的酒庄，餐馆，农贸市场，水果园和浆果园。您也可以探索

有着历史意义的金镇和海上村庄，如瓦尔哈拉殿堂和阿伯特

港，或者爬上斜坡，花上一天的时间在波波山高山度假村上

滑雪。吉普斯兰湖由五条主要的河流汇聚而成，伴随九十英里


Overview | Just Out Of tOwn


Red Hill goat cheese, bread and olives

Overview | out of town

A WORLD APART


Just minutes from Phillip Island by air, another life awaits you. Cassy Polimeni spends a morning immersed in history and nature on the untouched paradise of French Island

Nothing beats the feeling of arriving by helicopter. As our chopper descends into an empty field on ruggedly beautiful French Island, I feel part rock star, part explorer. The seamless take off, propeller soundtrack and

incredible fishbowl views of Western Port Bay from my seat beside seasoned pilot Stephen Peppard add up to an experience fit for rock royalty, but landing in the secluded natural wonderland of French Island makes it easy to feel as if you’re one of a lucky few to set foot here.

An accident of geography made French Island what it is today. While Phillip Island was linked to the mainland town of San Remo by bridge in 1940, French Island’s coastline lies a little further out of reach and even today is accessible only by ferry or air. These days Phillip Island receives 3.5 million visitors annually, while French Island remains relatively isolated – and that’s the way they like it.

French Island has no mains water, power lines or medical services. Two thirds of the island is national park, and it is home to the world’s densest and most disease free koala population – so it’s the perfect place to catch a glimpse of these unique critters in their natural habitat.

Fourth generation islander Lois Airs greets us on the


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French Island Experience | OuT Of TOWn

impromptu airstrip and takes us on a tour of the 20-hectare farm that has been in her family for over 100 years. Lois and her husband Keith are keen local historians and have conducted tours of French Island since 1980. Accompany-ing Lois today are Sharon Good and Linda Bowen who assist her on tours and volunteer with Landcare in their spare time to help preserve French Island. Each has a different story about how they came to call the island home, but one thing links all three women: their fierce love of this place and all it represents.

We spot our first koala slumbering in a eucalypt just metres from where we touched down. Koalas sleep for over 20 hours a day so once they’ve found a comfy tree they tend to stay put, allowing volunteers to tag their favourite trees with yellow markers in the morning and revisit them through the day.

We make our way towards the rusted red remnants of Bayview Chicory Kiln. Built in the 1890s, it is now a museum and tearoom for weary travellers, including passing cyclists, walkers and campers.

Vintage bottles of coffee and chicory essence are assembled on every surface, along with newspaper articles about Lois’ ancestors. Lois’ great uncle Ed Thompson was a chicory farmer who invented a device for spreading sliced chicory for drying. Lois points out the remains of his Macguyver-like contraption housed in a crumbling mezzanine, as we take our seats in the tearoom.

We tune into Lois’ encyclopaedic local knowledge over her trademark homemade scones. They are light, fluffy and generously proportioned – truly some of the best I’ve ever eaten. We smear them with locally-made blackberry and pear and ginger jam, and wash them down with coffee and chicory as Lois shares stories from her childhood, like the time prisoners escaped from McCloud prison farm and hid out on the island, thrilling local children and terrifying their parents. The former prison now offers accommodation – from basic but atmospheric cells with communal facilities for those on a budget, to more upmarket guesthouse rooms housed in the former officers’ quarters (mcleodecofarm.com).

Filled to the gills with local knowledge and scone dough, we head outside to try our luck at another koala encounter before it’s time to fly back to Phillip Island. The stillness and simplicity of this place has a soothing effect and a sense of peace settles over our little group. I fantasise about holing up here to write a novel. We haven’t been here long, but already the rest of the world feels very, very far away. DV

OPPOSITE PAGE: Coastal scrub.THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: Chicory kiln remains; the helicopter touches down in front of Bayview Chicory Kiln; island-style petrol station.

Phillip Island Helicopters offer tours of French Island starting from $295 per person based on two passengers travelling. Flying time is approximately 10 minutes each way and tours run approximately 2.5 hours including morning or afternoon tea. To book, contact Phillip Island Helicopters on (03) 5956 7316 or [email protected]

For more information on Lois Airs and her tours of French Island, visit frenchislandtours.com.au

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Destinations Victoria December 2014

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Transcript of Destinations Victoria December 2014