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Date declared a Nature Reserve: 16 October1989Date of approval of PRUG:(Plan for Governing Usage and Management)16 May 1995

The Desert de Les Palmes, which was declared aProtected Natural Area of the Valencian Communityon 16th October 1989 (DECREE 149/1989 D.O.G.V.1.173. 1989 10 31). It is located in the province ofCastellón and forms part of five municipal areas:Cabanes, Benicàssim, la Pobla Tornesa, Borrioland Castellón de la Plana. The protected surfacearea covers a total space of 3200 ha and its highestpoint is the Pico del Bartolo (729 m), from which youcan see the Columbretes Island Marine NatureReserve on clear days.

This coastal mountain range offers great natural, his-torical and social wealth, there being many treasureshidden among its ravines, which were determiningfactors for being declared a natural beauty spot.

The climate of the reserve is clearly Mediterranean,but its proximity to the sea gives it some specialweather features, due to the Levante winds from theeast, which come in heavy with humidity and causemists that allow damper microclimates to form.

The landscape that can be seen today is in arecovery stage after the fires of 1985 and 1992.

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History

The origins of the Valencian word “Desert” areactually nothing to do with geography, as “desert”was the term used by barefoot Carmelite monks forlonely places far from the madding crowd, to whichthey retired to devote themselves to contemplationand prayer. And since in this zone there were andstill are plenty of fan palms (Chamaerops humilis) thewhole area began to be called Desert de les Palmes

The area of the Desert de les Palmes has been pop-ulated since the Neolithic age, though its historyreally starts with the arrival of the Carmelite monks.One of the founders and most emblematic charac-ters of the Desert was Brother Bartolomé, of whomit is said that he enjoyed going up the mount of SanMiguel so much that it is today universally known as“El Bartolo“.

The presence of Carmelites has left us two of thereserve’s most emblematic constructions: the oldmonastery, of which only the ruins remain, throughbeing destroyed by heavy rainfall and the newmonastery, where the monks live today. Other reli-gious buildings, in this case humbler ones, that canalso be seen in the park are the chapels and caverns.

The nature reserve also has a number of ruins andbuildings of particular interest such as the Miravetcastle, Montornés castle and the Castell Vell, as wellas the chapel of Les Santes and La Magdalena.

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Miravet castleLocated in the municipal area of Cabanes and con-quered from the Arabs by El Cid Campeador in 1091.

From its etymology “Miravet” is thought to havebeen a monastery of Moslem warrior monks dedi-cated to the holy war. Its good state of repair is animportant feature of this castle.

Castell Vell and La Magdalena chapelKing Jaume I conquered this area in 1233 and a fewyears later authorised the people’s settlement onthe plain, a date which marked the birth of a newcity known as Castellón de la Plana. Each year since

Miravet castle, formerly asoldier-monks' monastery

From Montornés's Castle we will seeimpressive views of the coast

1378, the birth of this city is commemorated withthe “cane procession” when the people walk outfrom the city on the Plain to La Magdalena chapel,carrying cane staffs.

Montornés castleLocated in the municipal area of Benicàssim, thiswas one of the most important Arab domains in thisarea. It is a tenth century building, inhabited until thelate 15th century and has borne witness to suchimportant historical events as the possibleencounter between King Peter I of Aragon and theundefeated knight Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, “El CidCampeador”, around 1094.

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Les Santes chapel“Les Santes” chapel is located in Les Santes ravine,about 7 kilometres from Cabanes.

The bishop of Tortosa ordered the faithful ofCabanes to rebuild the old ruined chapel and in 1617the image of Santa Lucia and Santa Águeda was set onthe altar. Later on bishop Francisco Gavaldá y Guaschdonated the image of Our Lady of the Rosary whichwas proclaimed Patron Saint of the Town, known asNuestra Señora del Buen Suceso.

At present Les Santes chapel is presided over by thethree aforementioned saints.

Les Santes chapel

Fountain of the Ermita de Les Santes

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Aquifers

The source of these springs lies in the different typesof ground forming the reserve: plentiful sandstonesand limestones which favour the absorption andchannelling of its waters, creating aquifers.

The Desert can be said to be an outstanding setting,in which water is one of its greatest assets, thesprings here - Les Santes, Miravet, El Perelló,Roc,San Jose, La Teula, La Mola, “Font Tallà”, etc. -being numerous and very much appreciated.

The Font del Roc spring is one of the many watersources that you can find in the reserve

Geology

In the Desert de Les Palmes, the intense colour ofthe red sandstone (Triassic), along with the greyishcolour of the limestone (Jurassic and Cretaceous)and the black of the slates (Palaeozoic) give thereserve an easily visible chromatic variety. It is pre-cisely the presence of slates and red sandstoneswhich gives this zone a special status in the Valenciangeology, favouring the existence of remarkable plantcommunities. Another geological characteristic ofthe area is the presence of a clearly defined fault inthe area by Montornés castle.

You can fully appreciate the effect of theMontornés fault, and see Montornes

castle at the top of the mountain

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Vegetation

The plant-life at present found in the Desert de lesPalmes nature reserve is the sort proper toValencian coastal ecosystems on siliceous ground.All over the nature reserve this reflects the resultof years of human activity which have left a traceof ancient transformation processes stemmingfrom shepherding, farming and charcoal-making.

In spite of the area having undergone devastatingforest fires, the vegetation has a great ability toregenerate after the ravages of a fire.

As for the tree strata, the main species to be seenon the sandstone areas are the Mediterraneanpine (Pinus pinaster) along with cork oaks (Quercussuber), in some of the shadier areas; while in zoneswith limestone coming to the surface it is morecommon to find Aleppo pines (Pinus halepensis)and holm oaks (Quercus ilex sub. rotundifolia). Indamp zones there are prominent specimens ofelms (Ulmus minor) and scattered around theshadier zones in the park the gall oak (Quercusfaginea). In les Santes ravine one can find two largespecimens of Quercus cerrioides, a very rarespecies in the Valencian Community.

The bush strata, at present covering a large part ofthe reserve, has species such as the strawberrytree (Arbutus unedo), laurustine (Viburnum tinus),fan palm (Chamaerops humilis), the only palmautochthonous to the continental part of Europe;Cytisus villosus, a sort of broom with scanty distri-

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castell deMontornés

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infotmation centre

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Palmes nature reserve there are over 300 speciesof fungi, which are associated in some way oranother with almost all plants. This fact is a goodindicator of the space’s high biodiversity. Some ofthe most common species easiest to find are saf-fron milk cap (Lactarius deliciosus), `sickener(Russula sp.), mousy tricholoma (Tricholoma ter-reum), yellow-footed chanterelle (Cantharelluslutescens). There are very eyecatching species suchas the earth stars (Astraeus hygrometricus,Geastrum sp.) or the lattice stinkhorn (Clathrusruber), as well as rare species: Cortinarius ayanamii;Boletus junquilleus; Melanoleuca oreina; Mycenaalgeriensis. And of course one should mentionsome toxic species such as Omphalotus olearius,which gives off a strong smell of oil.

Butcher’s broom (Ruscus aculeatus

bution; butcher’s broom (Ruscus aculeatus) inshadier zones with different ferns and moss. All ofthese are species protected by Valencian legislation.

Along with these species there are others of no lesssignificance such as the Juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus)and the Lentisc (Pistacia lentiscus), as well as aro-matic species such as: rosemary (Rosmarinus offici-nalis), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), Spanish lavender(Lavandula stoechas) and Winter savory (Saturejamontana) as well as species adapted to withstandingfires such as broom-like kidney vetch (Anthyllis cyti-soides), gorse (Ulex parviflorus), kermes oak (Quercuscoccifera), heathers (Erica multiflora and E. arborea)and diverse species of rockrose (Cistus sp.).

A typical stratum of coastal Mediterranean vegeta-tion are the lianas, found in the Desert de les Palmesin the form of ivy (Hedera helix), sarsaparilla (Smilaxaspera), Mediterranean honeysuckle (Loniceraimplexa) and wild madder (Rubia peregrina).

Lastly, in the grass stratum, there are species easilyidentifiable such as the Blue Aphyllanthes(Aphyllanthes monspeliensis), wild senna (Globulariaalypum) and fescue grass (Brachypodium retusum).

As rare, endemic or threatened species we shouldpoint out Erodium aguilellae and Leucojumvalentinum, which are what led to the microreservesin the Desert.

It is important to point out the ecological role offungi in ecosystems, through being the plants whichtransform dead organic matter into nutrients whichplants can make use of, thus contributing to themaintenance of the woods. In the Desert de les

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The spring will surprise you with the presence ofthe barn and red-rumped swallow (Hirundo rusti-ca and H. daurica) and swifts (Apus apus) alwaysflying around after insects. Their bright coloursalso make it easy to distinguish the European bee-eater (Merops apiaster) in the noisy groups thatthese form.

The group of birds of prey, both day and night alsohave their place in the reserve. In the day it is nothard to see the common kestrel (Falco tinnunculus),the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), or some ofthe different species of eagles such as the residentBonelli’s eagle (Hieraetus fasciatus), or the short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus) in summer. At nightone can hear the song of night hunters like the

Common kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)

Fauna

There is a wide range of fauna coming to find food andshelter in the Desert de les Palmes nature reserve,though not always easy for visitors to catch sight of.

As regards birds we should stress the elusive war-blers (Sylvia sp.), the cheeky robin (Erithacus rubecu-la) and the black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros).Amongst the pines it is easy to detect small familiesof tits such as great tits, white coat tits and blue tits(Parus major, P. ater, P. caeruleus) or long-tailed tit(Aegithalos caudatus), as well as the not so plentifulcommon crossbill (Loxia curvirostra).

Perched on some crag one may observe the blue rock-thrush (Monticola solitarius), northern wheatear(Oenanthe oenanthe) or stonechat (Saxicola torquata).

Cheeky robin (Erithacus rubecula)

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Red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)

scops owl (Otus scops), tawny owl (Strix aluco) andlittle owl (Athene noctua) amongst others.

As for mammals, the one of largest size is the boar(Sus scrofa) which, free from any natural predators,lives in a paradise among fruit and roots here. Onecan also find the fox (Vulpes vulpes), rabbit(Oryctolagus cuniculus), hare (Lepus capensis), genet(Genetta genetta), red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) andhedgehog (Erinaceus europaeus).

There are several species of bats flying around insearch of insects, and most of these are protected.The most plentiful ones are the common bat(Pipistrellus pipistrellus) and the grey long-eared bat(Plecotus austriacus).

Reptiles and amphibians are represented by theIberian green frog (Rana perezi), midwife toad (Alytesobstetricans), ocellated lizard (Lacerta lepida), Iberianwall lizard ibérica (Podarcis hispanica), Montpellier’ssnake (Malpolon monspessulanus), ladder snake(Elaphe scalaris) and horseshoe whip snake (Coluberhippocrepis).

As for insects, the most extensive fauna group asregards the number of species and individuals, oneshould stress the Albertine rift butterfly (Charaxesjasius), burnet moth (Zygaena rhadamantus), dam-selflys (Agrion sp.) and bee (Apis mellifera).

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el Bartolo729 m

Routes

Round trip from the Information Centre to ElBartoloDuration: 2 h - Ascent: 328 m - Distance: 5 kmThis climbs up to the highest point in the reserve, “elBartolo”, with its altitude of 729 m.

Round trip from the Information Centre to ElBartolo, along the crestsDuration: 2 h 30´ - Ascent: 330 m - Distance: 5.5 kmThis is one of the most difficult routes, as the way upis fairly hard, but the views to be had of the mountainmake it well worth it.

Round trip by: the Information Centre, ElBartolo and Les SantesDuration: 5 h - Ascent: 450 m - Distance: 13.5 kmA round trip around a good deal of the naturereserve, which enables you to get to know both thecoastal and inland areas of the protected space.

Route from the Information Centre to PoblaTornesaDuration: 1h 30´ - Ascent: 250 m - Distance: 5.7 kmFrom the information centre, the route goesthrough tracks and forest paths to the pretty villageof Pobla Tornesa.

Route from the Information Centre toMontornes castleDuration: 1h - Ascent: 30 m - Distance: 2 kmYou can enjoy the 10th century Arab ruins with a viewof the Mediterranean shoreline.

Route from El Perelló spring to Miravet castleDuration: 1h - Ascent: 160 m - Distance: 2 kmThis is one of the castles in best state of repair in thewhole reserve, with lovely views of the shoreline.

Round trip around the springs in the DesertDuration: 3h - Ascent: 200 m - Distance: 7 kmA round trip which takes the visitor around three ofthe springs in the Desert de les Palmes.

Route from Benicàssim to Font TallàDuration: 2h - Ascent: 300 m - Distance: 5.3 kmFrom the town of Benicàssim this route lets you seeone of the most emblematic spots around here,which is the spring known as “Font Tallà”

Round trip around Les Santes chapelDuration: 1h 15´ - Ascent: 150 m - Distance: 3.5 kmRound trip around one of the coolest ravines in thewhole nature area.

MediterraneanSea

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"La Bartola" Information Centre and right at the top ofthe mountain, the Porteria Vella

Places of interest

Places of interest in the protected area:

La Bartola information centre

Mas de les tortugues. Centre for recovery of theMediterranean tortoise. Closed at hibernation time.

Carmelite Monastery

Castles and chapels in the nature area

Places of interest in the municipalities in the area:

Carmelite wine cellars(Benicàssim)

Municipal theatre (Benicàssim)

Planetarium and Information Centre of the IllesColumbretes Nature Reserve(Grau de Castelló)

Espai d'Art Contemporani (Castelló)

Roman arch in Cabanes.

Carmelite monastery

Leave the place cleaner than when you arrived,deposit your own rubbish and if possible any other wasteyou may find in the nearest bin.

Respect the path, go by the signs on the tracks, ot takingshort cuts, and you will be doing the ecosystem a great favour.

Fire is the greatest enemy of the mountains, do notlight bonfires nor smoke. Breathe in fresh air.

Look at the plants without destroying them,do not pull up plants or flowers - take notes or photos.

Observe animals without bothering them,hunting is forbidden in the whole nature reserve.

Use hotel and tourist facilities in nearby towns andvillages, as you cannot camp in the reserve.

Take care of the springs, as these are the most valuableasset of our mountains, and do not contaminate them.

Forget all about motor vehicles, and enjoy thesilence, noise is another form of pollution.

Respect our historical and cultural heritage, avoid anyactions which may deteriorate the terraces or buildings.

The dogs must go tied, can cause inconveniences(trou-bles) to the avifauna

If you do noise or speak fort, you will get lost the sounds ofthe forest

In the event of any emergency call 112.

How to get here

Access to the Nature Reserve is by the N-340 trunkroad, heading towards Barcelona. By Castellón take localroad CV-147, which links La Magdalena Chapel withBenicassim town.

To get here from Benicassim, you can take the samelocal road CV-147, from this town.

From the A-7 motorway, take exit 46 (Castellón Norte-Benicassim) and follow the signs to Desert de les Palmes.

An alternative route to head into the Desert de lesPalmes is the CV-10, from this taking the CV 148 fromCabanes – Oropesa. From this point you can get to theinformation centre by a narrow country path.

Walk without leaving any trail behind you