Adinorack de Palets

7/27/2019 Adinorack de Palets

1/80

Here's a fun way to reuse wood. Make this Adirondack chair from shipping pallets or other

reclaimed lumber.

Step 1: The low-down on pallets
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FM9/FT55/G2HDXJ15/FM9FT55G2HDXJ15.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FM9/FT55/G2HDXJ15/FM9FT55G2HDXJ15.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FM9/FT55/G2HDXJ15/FM9FT55G2HDXJ15.LARGE.jpg


2/80

Pallets come in many shapes and styles. They're made from lots of different types of

wood. They are readily available for free.

In fact, most companies pay people to take them away.

But there's a catch: pallets aren't easy to take apart. They're also usually not made of very

good lumber. If you use them for projects, you're going to spend A LOT of time dismantling

them and you're not going to get much from a single pallet.

If you're expecting perfection, than pallet lumber may not be right for you. You can try

salvaging used material from places like craigslist. I collected an impressive amount of

wood for my other pallet instructable, thePallet Playhouse.

If you're not interested in turning a pallet into something else or trucking around the nation

looking for free stuff, substitute the pallet wood for some nice cedar or pressure treated

wood. I made a PT set in a similar pattern that's held up for 11+ years of direct exposure to

the elements. They're still perfectly sound. You won't get that kind of performance from

pallet wood.

Step 2: What to look for
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Playhousehttp://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Playhousehttp://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Playhousehttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FM9/FT55/G2HDXJ15/FM9FT55G2HDXJ15.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/id/Pallet-Playhouse


3/80

I get my pallets from my employer. They throw them away, into a dumpster if I don't get to

them first. They pay to have the dumpster emptied, of course, so they're more than happy

to give me as many as I want.

Only about one in ten of the pallets I came across were the kind I wanted. I tried to find
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FM9/FT55/G2HDXJ15/FM9FT55G2HDXJ15.LARGE.jpg


4/80

ones that were brand-new, roughly 48" x 35", and were constructed of (3) notched 2'x4's

connected by 3/4" inch nominal boards (commonly called "one by" lumber.) Usually, one

side is rough sawn and the other is finished. All of them were heat treated (marked "HT")

and held together by nearly indestructible spiral nails.

After I posted my first pallet project to Instructables, a lot of people commented about the

dangers of pesticide-treated pallets. For the record: I only useISPM 15certified pallets.

That means that the pallets are inspected, and certified to be either heat-treated

(marked HT) or fumigated with Methyl Bromide (marked BM). It also states that the pallet

must be marked with either the HT orMB stamps.

I only use new, HT-marked pallets that were used solely to ship paper. I would not

recommend using any pallet that is not plainly marked, but then again, it's a free country.

Step 3: Where to look for them

Pallets are everywhere. As I mentioned, I get mine from my workplace, but thousands of

other businesses are constantly looking for someone to take them away. I've gotten them

from supermarkets, restaurants, and office buildings. I've had a number of people

recommend carpet companies, furniture stores or outlets, and atv/snowmobile dealers.

I also see them up on craigslist all the time.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISPM_15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISPM_15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISPM_15http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F38/UTZ8/G4D5QI2P/F38UTZ8G4D5QI2P.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F38/UTZ8/G4D5QI2P/F38UTZ8G4D5QI2P.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F38/UTZ8/G4D5QI2P/F38UTZ8G4D5QI2P.LARGE.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISPM_15


5/80

Step 4: Be careful!

Working with power tools is dangerous, doubly so when working with pallets. There are

hidden nails, knots, warped boards, etc. Use proper safety equipment, especially eye

protection. Don't use a power tool unless you're familiar with it.

You could very easily get hurt, so proceed at your own risk.

Step 5: Tools you'll need

Tools/material you need, at minimum:

1) Hammer

2) Crowbar/prybar

3) Drill (cordless is best, but even a hand drill will work)

4) Small bit for pilot holds (size depends on the screws you use)

5) 3/8" Spade or forstner bit for counter sinks

6) A saw of some sort-- I wouldn't try this without a circular saw, but hand saws would

work.. A jig saw, band saw, and table saw would all help, too.

7) Some sort of screw driver for your screws. Power drills work best

8) Wood glue9) Screws
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIP/YKTJ/G6MPGU90/FIPYKTJG6MPGU90.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FV1/CF3D/G4PBSHCZ/FV1CF3DG4PBSHCZ.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIP/YKTJ/G6MPGU90/FIPYKTJG6MPGU90.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIP/YKTJ/G6MPGU90/FIPYKTJG6MPGU90.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FV1/CF3D/G4PBSHCZ/FV1CF3DG4PBSHCZ.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FV1/CF3D/G4PBSHCZ/FV1CF3DG4PBSHCZ.LARGE.jpg


6/80

10) Wood putty

11) 3-4 good pallets

Step 6: How to break them down
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FC3/48CI/G2HDXJ2C/FC348CIG2HDXJ2C.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVH/LVSC/G2HDXJ2P/FVHLVSCG2HDXJ2P.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FC3/48CI/G2HDXJ2C/FC348CIG2HDXJ2C.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FC3/48CI/G2HDXJ2C/FC348CIG2HDXJ2C.LARGE.jpg


7/80

I experimented with different methods, but I finally settled on this particular method of

disassembling the pallets.

This is how I do it:
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVH/LVSC/G2HDXJ2P/FVHLVSCG2HDXJ2P.LARGE.jpg


8/80

I start by cutting off the outside stringers (the 2x4's) with a skill saw. Watch out for nails!

Draw a straight line on each side as a guide to cut off the outside stringers. A chalk line

works well.

You'll want to set your depth at a fraction more than the 3/4 inch board.

After you cut along each outside stringer (not the middle!), flip the pallet over and do the

same on the other side.

WARNING: Pallets are usually made of the lumber that got rejected for other uses. It's

hard, often warped, has old broken nails embedded in it, and generally is just a pain to

work with. Be careful. Wear goggles. Repetitive work breeds carelessness. Trust me,

I know.

Some other methods:

--Cut the nails with a sawzall.

--Use a pneumatic chisel

--Use a catspaw to dig the nails out (for certain pallets, this is easy. For some, it's darn

near impossible.)

Step 7: How to break them down, continued.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGL/3E90/G2HDZTY0/FGL3E90G2HDZTY0.LARGE.jpg


9/80

Use a hammer to knock the stinger off if it's stubborn.

Step 8: Detach the board from the middle stringer.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGL/3E90/G2HDZTY0/FGL3E90G2HDZTY0.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FG4/B103/G2HDWC4I/FG4B103G2HDWC4I.LARGE.jpg


10/80

You'll be left with a bunch of 1X4's and 1X6's attached to the 2x4 in the center.

By rocking the 1x4's and the 1x6's back and forth, you can get the board off without totally

destroying it.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FG4/B103/G2HDWC4I/FG4B103G2HDWC4I.LARGE.jpg


11/80

There will still be quite a few ruined boards. Good for the woodstove.

Pull or remove any nails left in the board and stack it to the side. You may also want to

grade your boards, based on knots, warping, bark, etc. This will help later when you try to

decide what to use for what job.

Step 9: The payoff
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGT/I9RA/G2HDWC4O/FGTI9RAG2HDWC4O.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGT/I9RA/G2HDWC4O/FGTI9RAG2HDWC4O.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGT/I9RA/G2HDWC4O/FGTI9RAG2HDWC4O.LARGE.jpg


12/80


13/80

Using a 32" 1x6, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below. Keep in mind that

the lumber is only 5.5" wide. you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at the top.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern.

You'll need two and you can use the first to trace out the second.

REMEMBER! If one side of the board is better than the other, to cut accordingly. In other

words, the armrests should be mirror (opposite) copies. Pallet wood usually has both a

smooth and a rough side.

Step 12: Measure and mark bottom backrest rail
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FE8/DGFA/G6MPCXQL/FE8DGFAG6MPCXQL.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9M/GVR0/G6MPCXNG/F9MGVR0G6MPCXNG.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FE8/DGFA/G6MPCXQL/FE8DGFAG6MPCXQL.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FE8/DGFA/G6MPCXQL/FE8DGFAG6MPCXQL.LARGE.jpg


14/80

Using a 21.5" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below. Keep in mind that



Step 13: Measure and mark top backrest rail

Using a 22" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below. Keep in mind that



Step 14: Measure and mark armrest brackets.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJK/MO1R/G4PBSHJJ/FJKMO1RG4PBSHJJ.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGV/MD9V/G6MPPFIV/FGVMD9VG6MPPFIV.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJK/MO1R/G4PBSHJJ/FJKMO1RG4PBSHJJ.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJK/MO1R/G4PBSHJJ/FJKMO1RG4PBSHJJ.LARGE.jpg


15/80

Cut out (2) armrest brackets. Use the measurements below.

Step 15: Cut out the top and bottom brackets, rear legs/seat stringers,

armrest brackets, and the armrests
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGV/MD9V/G6MPPFIV/FGVMD9VG6MPPFIV.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCY/0BUN/G3TDW5UL/FCY0BUNG3TDW5UL.LARGE.jpg


16/80

Using your jigsaw (or a bandsaw if you have one), cut out each of the pieces.

You'll want to make sure you clamp them down securely.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCY/0BUN/G3TDW5UL/FCY0BUNG3TDW5UL.LARGE.jpg


17/80

For the rear leg/seat stringers and the armrests, you'll need two each. You can trace the

first one after you cut it out to avoid having to draw the one inch grids again.

Step 16: Measure and cut the front legs/front crosspiece/front seat slat

You'll need (4) 20" x 3.5" boards for (2) front legs, (1) front crosspiece, and (1) front seat

slat. You can cut these with a handsaw, a table saw, a circular saw-- whatever you have.

You'll save yourself a lot of heartache if you remember to label these pieces. Use a pencil

to write "front leg" on two of them and "front cross" on the third, etc. Make it small-- you'll

be finishing the chair later and the pencil marks will probably show through.

Step 17: Cut rear crosspiece

Cut (1) 18.5" x 3.5" rear crosspiece.

Step 18: Measure and cut the rear back support
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCS/VH17/G6MPPRD4/FCSVH17G6MPPRD4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEE/LTWG/G4D5QI4U/FEELTWGG4D5QI4U.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCS/VH17/G6MPPRD4/FCSVH17G6MPPRD4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FCS/VH17/G6MPPRD4/FCSVH17G6MPPRD4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEE/LTWG/G4D5QI4U/FEELTWGG4D5QI4U.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FEE/LTWG/G4D5QI4U/FEELTWGG4D5QI4U.LARGE.jpg


18/80

You'll need (2) rear back supports.

Get a 1x4 and measure 26" on one side, 23" on the other. Draw a line between the two

and cut.

Step 19: Cut (9) 1.75" seat slats
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9Q/5A7T/G4D5QI4T/F9Q5A7TG4D5QI4T.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FNZ/Z2VN/G6MPGU23/FNZZ2VNG6MPGU23.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9Q/5A7T/G4D5QI4T/F9Q5A7TG4D5QI4T.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FL8/GS7X/G6MPGU0L/FL8GS7XG6MPGU0L.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FNZ/Z2VN/G6MPGU23/FNZZ2VNG6MPGU23.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FNZ/Z2VN/G6MPGU23/FNZZ2VNG6MPGU23.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9Q/5A7T/G4D5QI4T/F9Q5A7TG4D5QI4T.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9Q/5A7T/G4D5QI4T/F9Q5A7TG4D5QI4T.LARGE.jpg


19/80

Rip a 3.5" inch board down the middle to get (2) 1.75" seat slats. Cut the length to 20".

Drill pilot holes and countersink on each end of the slat. The pilot hole should be with 3/4"

of the slat's end. In practice, you can simply "eye it" so that you get as close to the edge as

possible without allowing the countersink hole to ruin the board.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FL8/GS7X/G6MPGU0L/FL8GS7XG6MPGU0L.LARGE.jpg


20/80

You'll need (9) slats.

Step 20: Measure and cut the chair back slats
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8V/BM45/G6MPPFA5/F8VBM45G6MPPFA5.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAZ/4N6T/G6MPPFAJ/FAZ4N6TG6MPPFAJ.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8V/BM45/G6MPPFA5/F8VBM45G6MPPFA5.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F8V/BM45/G6MPPFA5/F8VBM45G6MPPFA5.LARGE.jpg


21/80

You'll need (7) chair back slats. These are tapered cuts. I made a simple (yet dangerous)

taper jig out a sheet of masonite and a few smaller pieces of wood.

You can simply mark the board from the measurements below and use a circular saw to rip

the taper.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAZ/4N6T/G6MPPFAJ/FAZ4N6TG6MPPFAJ.LARGE.jpg


22/80

I marked the length approximately; this is a good place to use some of your less than

perfect boards. Anywhere from 34"-36" should do fine. As you'll see later, we're going to

trim the tops to make the fan shape at the top of the chair.

Step 21: Cut the fan tail
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F5A/M0S6/G6MPPFB4/F5AM0S6G6MPPFB4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F5A/M0S6/G6MPPFB4/F5AM0S6G6MPPFB4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F5A/M0S6/G6MPPFB4/F5AM0S6G6MPPFB4.LARGE.jpg


23/80

To cut the fan tail, lay the back slats together like in the picture shown. Use a board to line

up the bottom edge.

Step 22: Cut the fantail, continued.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/6W3J/G6MPPFC0/F4A6W3JG6MPPFC0.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJ1/YPJ2/G6MPPFBZ/FJ1YPJ2G6MPPFBZ.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/6W3J/G6MPPFC0/F4A6W3JG6MPPFC0.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F4A/6W3J/G6MPPFC0/F4A6W3JG6MPPFC0.LARGE.jpg


24/80

Tie a pencil to a couple of feet of string (or use a ring at the end of the string like I did.)

Use your thumb to hold one end of the string in the middle of the center board at the

bottom. Use the pencil to etch an arc into the top edge of the boards. Obviously, if your

boards are different lengths, use the shorter ones at the edge and the bigger ones in thecenter.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJ1/YPJ2/G6MPPFBZ/FJ1YPJ2G6MPPFBZ.LARGE.jpg


25/80

After you draw the arc, number the boards with a pencil so you know what order they go

into later.

Step 23: Cut the fantail, continued.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F0Q/D2U5/G6MPPFCU/F0QD2U5G6MPPFCU.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F0Q/D2U5/G6MPPFCU/F0QD2U5G6MPPFCU.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F0Q/D2U5/G6MPPFCU/F0QD2U5G6MPPFCU.LARGE.jpg


26/80

Use your jigsaw to trim off the end of the boards.

Step 24: The end result
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1H/9DGE/G6MPLO39/F1H9DGEG6MPLO39.LARGE.jpg


27/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1H/9DGE/G6MPLO39/F1H9DGEG6MPLO39.LARGE.jpg


28/80

You should end up with something like this.

Step 25: Let's assemble this thing already!

The moment you've been waiting for. Let's put it together.

Step 26: Connect front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer
http://cdn.instructables.com/FWT/Z6V7/G6MPPQWL/FWTZ6V7G6MPPQWL.LARGE.jpg


29/80

On a flat surface, arrange the front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer as shown.

Remember, if your boards are smooth on one side and rough on the other, male sure the

"good" side is facing out. In this picture, you're looking at the rough side, ie, the "inside".

PLEASE NOTE: The front leg is UNDER the seat stringer. The back support is OVER the
http://cdn.instructables.com/FWT/Z6V7/G6MPPQWL/FWTZ6V7G6MPPQWL.LARGE.jpg


30/80

seat stringer.

Use a board or the table edge to line up the pieces on the bottom. Measure the distance

between the front leg and the rear back support on top and the bottom to make sure it's

reasonably straight. Mark the leg and support locations with a pencil.

Part of the fun of using pallet wood is all the little adjustments you have to make to account

for warped wood, etc. Enjoy! :-)

Step 27: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the front leg.
http://cdn.instructables.com/FOZ/POUY/G6MPPQXG/FOZPOUYG6MPPQXG.LARGE.jpg


31/80
http://cdn.instructables.com/FOZ/POUY/G6MPPQXG/FOZPOUYG6MPPQXG.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FGR/CIXE/G6MPPQXW/FGRCIXEG6MPPQXW.LARGE.jpg


32/80

Drill two staggered pilot holes through the top piece and halfway through the lower board.

Use the 3/8" bit to countersink the holes. Spread a generous amount of glue between the

two pieces and attach with 1" wood screws.

Tip: Sometimes pallet wood is especially soft. Set the drill's torque as low as possible toavoid stripping out the pilot hole.
http://cdn.instructables.com/FGR/CIXE/G6MPPQXW/FGRCIXEG6MPPQXW.LARGE.jpg


33/80

Step 28: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the rear back support.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIG/N1B6/G6MPPRQB/FIGN1B6G6MPPRQB.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI2/00D5/G6MPPR8M/FI200D5G6MPPR8M.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIG/N1B6/G6MPPRQB/FIGN1B6G6MPPRQB.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIG/N1B6/G6MPPRQB/FIGN1B6G6MPPRQB.LARGE.jpg


34/80

Don't forget the glue. Make sure that the back support is evenly spaced (about 21") from

both the top of the front leg and the bottom.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and a nut here, instead of

two screws. Definitely a stronger way to go!

Step 29: Assemble the opposite seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI2/00D5/G6MPPR8M/FI200D5G6MPPR8M.LARGE.jpg


35/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVE/IXFV/G6MPPR9S/FVEIXFVG6MPPR9S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVE/IXFV/G6MPPR9S/FVEIXFVG6MPPR9S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZB/9D7V/G6MPPR9K/FZB9D7VG6MPPR9K.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVE/IXFV/G6MPPR9S/FVEIXFVG6MPPR9S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FVE/IXFV/G6MPPR9S/FVEIXFVG6MPPR9S.LARGE.jpg


36/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZB/9D7V/G6MPPR9K/FZB9D7VG6MPPR9K.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FK4/F2NY/G6MPPR99/FK4F2NYG6MPPR99.LARGE.jpg


37/80


38/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FPQ/5OU3/G6MPPRK6/FPQ5OU3G6MPPRK6.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FG9/J8LR/G6MPPRKP/FG9J8LRG6MPPRKP.LARGE.jpg


39/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FG9/J8LR/G6MPPRKP/FG9J8LRG6MPPRKP.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FF2/76FF/G6MPPRKN/FF276FFG6MPPRKN.LARGE.jpg


40/80

Take your (1) 18.5" x 3.5" rear crosspiece and attach it to the seat stringer/rear back

support as shown in the photo.

Measure one inch from the top of the seat stringer so you'll know where to attach it on the

other side. Don't forget to drill, countersink, and glue. You may want to mark and trace

where you want your screw holes (see picture 2 & 3)

Step 31: Connect rear crosspiece, continued.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FF2/76FF/G6MPPRKN/FF276FFG6MPPRKN.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FT8/FUNC/G6MPPRLF/FT8FUNCG6MPPRLF.LARGE.jpg


41/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FT8/FUNC/G6MPPRLF/FT8FUNCG6MPPRLF.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FA5/2W3B/G6MPPRLR/FA52W3BG6MPPRLR.LARGE.jpg


42/80

Mark and measure your other front leg, seat stringer, and back support to attach the rear

crosspiece.

Try to connect it in precisely the same spot as you did on the other side.

Did I mention not to forget the glue?
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FA5/2W3B/G6MPPRLR/FA52W3BG6MPPRLR.LARGE.jpg


43/80

Step 32: Connect front crosspiece
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1A/AE1X/G6MPPRM7/F1AAE1XG6MPPRM7.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FST/IV2X/G6MPPRM6/FSTIV2XG6MPPRM6.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1A/AE1X/G6MPPRM7/F1AAE1XG6MPPRM7.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1A/AE1X/G6MPPRM7/F1AAE1XG6MPPRM7.LARGE.jpg


44/80

Connecting the front crosspiece is easier thean the rear one. Mark and measure the center

of each front leg beneath the seat stringer. Hold the crosspiece up so it touches the seat

stringer and attach to the front leg with glue and screws.

Step 33: Connect the bottom backrest rail
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FST/IV2X/G6MPPRM6/FSTIV2XG6MPPRM6.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FV5/70ZG/G6MPPRN9/FV570ZGG6MPPRN9.LARGE.jpg


45/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FV5/70ZG/G6MPPRN9/FV570ZGG6MPPRN9.LARGE.jpg


46/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F7N/X83F/G6MPPRN4/F7NX83FG6MPPRN4.LARGE.jpg


47/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F7N/X83F/G6MPPRN4/F7NX83FG6MPPRN4.LARGE.jpg


48/80


49/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FOQ/NMX5/G6MPPRPC/FOQNMX5G6MPPRPC.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FP5/BOMR/G6MPPRPB/FP5BOMRG6MPPRPB.LARGE.jpg


50/80


51/80

Take the rounded, top back rest rail and mark it 2.5" from either side. The distance from

each of your sides should be 18.5". Drill and countersink two holes on each side at you

marks.

Position the backrest rail over the rear back supports and attach with glue and screws.

You may have to squeeze the rear back supports gently together to get them plumb.

Step 35: Attach armrest brackets
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FQQ/H6R0/G6MPGQ64/FQQH6R0G6MPGQ64.LARGE.jpg


52/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FQQ/H6R0/G6MPGQ64/FQQH6R0G6MPGQ64.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F6T/HPB9/G6MPGQ6A/F6THPB9G6MPGQ6A.LARGE.jpg


53/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F6T/HPB9/G6MPGQ6A/F6THPB9G6MPGQ6A.LARGE.jpg


54/80

Measure and mark the center line of the top of the front leg. Drill pilot holes, countersink,

and attack the armrest brackets. Make sure the top edge of the bracket is level with the

top edge of the front leg. Repeat on the other side.

Step 36: Attach the 20" front seat slat
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ8/KXBN/G6MPGQ4S/FZ8KXBNG6MPGQ4S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ8/KXBN/G6MPGQ4S/FZ8KXBNG6MPGQ4S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FZ8/KXBN/G6MPGQ4S/FZ8KXBNG6MPGQ4S.LARGE.jpg


55/80

Glue and screw on the front seat slat. Drill pilot holes and countersink.

Step 37: Attach center backrest slat
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FOD/31E1/G6MPGQ71/FOD31E1G6MPGQ71.LARGE.jpg


56/80


57/80

Find and mark the center of the top and bottom back rail.

Drill and countersink a hole on the bottom of the slat, then attach to the bottom back rail.

Line up the top slat/rail, drill, countersink, and attach.

I would not use glue on the backslats-- you may want to move/adjust them later.

Step 38: Attach the edge back slats
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FA0/8F1T/G6MPGQFF/FA08F1TG6MPGQFF.LARGE.jpg


58/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FA0/8F1T/G6MPGQFF/FA08F1TG6MPGQFF.LARGE.jpg


59/80

Attach the first and seventh back slats to the bottom back rail. You'll want to dry-fit the two

armrests before you attach the back slats so you know you're leaving enough room to

attach them.

After you connect the bottom of each slat, attach the top.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FUO/58CR/G6MPGQWT/FUO58CRG6MPGQWT.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FUO/58CR/G6MPGQWT/FUO58CRG6MPGQWT.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FUO/58CR/G6MPGQWT/FUO58CRG6MPGQWT.LARGE.jpg


60/80

Step 39: Attach the remaining back slats
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FER/NB0S/G6MPGQXN/FERNB0SG6MPGQXN.LARGE.jpg


61/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FER/NB0S/G6MPGQXN/FERNB0SG6MPGQXN.LARGE.jpg


62/80


63/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F6M/WMQP/G6MPGRNN/F6MWMQPG6MPGRNN.LARGE.jpg


64/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FK3/VGDS/G6MPGRNS/FK3VGDSG6MPGRNS.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FK3/VGDS/G6MPGRNS/FK3VGDSG6MPGRNS.LARGE.jpg


65/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FK3/VGDS/G6MPGRNS/FK3VGDSG6MPGRNS.LARGE.jpg


66/80


67/80

You'll want to dry fit all the slats first so you have an idea of how to space them.

This is a time consuming part. You'll want to be really careful drilling the pilot holes into the

seat stringer. Be patient! You don't want to blow it now.

Step 41: Route the edges of the armrests
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FQM/WDV2/G6MPGU3J/FQMWDV2G6MPGU3J.LARGE.jpg


68/80

The end is in sight!

If you've got the means, I definitely recommend routing the edges of the armrests.
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9T/6VLJ/G6MPGU4A/F9T6VLJG6MPGU4A.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9T/6VLJ/G6MPGU4A/F9T6VLJG6MPGU4A.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9T/6VLJ/G6MPGU4A/F9T6VLJG6MPGU4A.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F9T/6VLJ/G6MPGU4A/F9T6VLJG6MPGU4A.LARGE.jpg


69/80

If not, you can skip to the next step.

Step 42: Attach the armrests
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI7/Q4H7/G6MPGU4I/FI7Q4H7G6MPGU4I.LARGE.jpg


70/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI7/Q4H7/G6MPGU4I/FI7Q4H7G6MPGU4I.LARGE.jpg


71/80

Measure and mark 20" from the bottom of the rear back support.

Step 43: Attach the armrests, continued
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F2J/VLIW/G6MPGU54/F2JVLIWG6MPGU54.LARGE.jpg


72/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F2J/VLIW/G6MPGU54/F2JVLIWG6MPGU54.LARGE.jpg


73/80

Move the armrest into position. The 20" mark should line up with the bottom edge of the

armrest.

Use a screw to tack the armrest in place, or prop it up, or clamp it, whatever. Just keep it inplace.

Step 44: Attach the armrests, continued
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F54/JR0B/G6MPGU5O/F54JR0BG6MPGU5O.LARGE.jpg


74/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F54/JR0B/G6MPGU5O/F54JR0BG6MPGU5O.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1R/D06O/G6MPGU6J/F1RD06OG6MPGU6J.LARGE.jpg


75/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1R/D06O/G6MPGU6J/F1RD06OG6MPGU6J.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FTJ/S6UK/G6MPGU5J/FTJS6UKG6MPGU5J.LARGE.jpg


76/80


77/80

To attach the rear part of the armrest, drill two pilot holes and countersink. Attach with two

1.25" screws.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and nut here, instead of

two screws. Definitely a stronger way to go!

Step 46: Time to finish
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXW/I5F5/G6MPGU76/FXWI5F5G6MPGU76.LARGE.jpg


78/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F52/ZXRB/G79DOQ1S/F52ZXRBG79DOQ1S.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F52/ZXRB/G79DOQ1S/F52ZXRBG79DOQ1S.LARGE.jpg


79/80
http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F52/ZXRB/G79DOQ1S/F52ZXRBG79DOQ1S.LARGE.jpg


80/80

Grab your wood putty and get to work. Fill all the holes you can.

I like to wipe off the residual putty with a wet cloth while it's fresh. Sanding it off can be a

real pain and also ruin the way your stain or paint looks.

Then get to work sanding it down. At the minimum, you'll need to lightly sand off the shiny

glaze to allow stain penetration or paint adhesion.

I like to use a dark, semi-transparent exterior stain on this sort of thing. It hides a lot of

imperfections in the wood. Of course, if you buy a nice cedar, you could get much better

results.

Adinorack de Palets

Documents

Transcript of Adinorack de Palets