ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for...

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Fishing the Gulkana River Those who have yet to travel to the Gulkana are missing a rare glimpse of a unique piece of Alaska ALASKA DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME SPORT FISH DIVISION 1300 COLLEGE ROAD FAIRBANKS, ALASKA 99701 (907) 459-7207 GLENNALLEN OFFICE: (907) 822-3309

Transcript of ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for...

Page 1: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

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Fishing the Gulkana River: an Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Roads and lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Remote fishing sites: the Middle Fork and the West Fork . . . 2The mainstem Gulkana: Paxson Lake to Sourdough . . . . . . . 2Fishing for grayling in the Gulkana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Fishing for rainbow trout in the Gulkana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4The lower Gulkana: Sourdough to the Richardson Highway bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Salmon fishing in the Gulkana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Downstream from the Richardson Highway bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Lake trout fishing in Summit and Paxson lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . 6What to do if you catch a tagged fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Gulkana River float trips: mileage logs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8ADF&G Trophy Fish Program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Catch-and-release techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Trophy Fish Affidavit form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Gulkana River area map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover

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Reach us on the web at:www.state.ak.us/adfg/sportf/region3/rgn3home.htm

Sport fishing regulations in the AYK region are posted on the web and can be viewedby clicking on the link for “Statewide Regulations” at the Sport Fish home page.Emergency orders and current information about inseason closures are also postedand updated daily on our website.

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This brochure was produced by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game

Division of Sport Fish, Region III

(Interior Alaska: Arctic-Yukon-Kuskokwim and Upper Copper/Upper Susitna River areas)

1300 College Rd., Fairbanks AK 99708

(907) 459-7207

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�� he Gulkana River

originates in the

Alaska Range and

flows south to join the

Copper River near the

community of Gulkana. This

beautiful clearwater system

affords unique and diverse

remote sport fishing oppor-

tunities. The Gulkana River

drainage supports the single

largest recreational fishery in

the Glennallen area and

has grown to be one of the

largest Arctic grayling

fisheries in the state. In

addition to its renowned

grayling fishing, the Gulkana

River drainage has great

summertime fishing for king

and sockeye salmon, as

well as fewer numbers of

lake trout, and catch-and-

release-only fisheries for

rainbow and steelhead

trout. In the winter, there

is excellent ice fishing for

lake trout and burbot in

area lakes.

Land upstream of Sour-

dough is mainly federal

and state-owned. The

section of the Gulkana

River upstream from

Sourdough has been

designated by the U.S.

Congress as a Wild River.

This classification recog-

nizes the area’s excep-

tional scenic, recreational,

fish, and wildlife values and

provides protection for the

benefit of present and future

generations.

Those who have visited the

Gulkana River can appreci-

ate the reasons for this

classification; those who

have yet to travel to the

Gulkana are missing a rare

glimpse of a unique piece

of Alaska.

Flowing through a basin of

rolling hills covered by spruce

and scattered hardwoods, the

Gulkana offers a range of

waters from very challenging

rapids to stretches of gentle

meanders. Moose, beaver,

bear, eagles, ducks, and

trumpeter swans are often

seen along the river, and

much of the Nelchina caribou

herd summers in the area.

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You can reach the GulkanaRiver by roads and trailsleading off the RichardsonHighway, which parallelsmuch of the river. Com-fortable lodgings can befound along the roadsystem in Glennallen andGakona, and at Paxson andSummit Lakes.

������ �� �� ��������� �����������������������For the more adventurousangler seeking a trulyremote fishing experience,the Gulkana's two majortributaries—the MiddleFork and the West Fork—may be the places to go.

To reach the ������ �, take a canoe orsmall raft south throughthe upper Tangle Lakes.

Two short portages lead toan unnamed muddy, shallowlake. From there, you havetwo choices: (1) continue tothe south end ofthe muddy lake,where two shortportages and a1- mile portagesouth will takeyou to DickeyLake and theheadwaters ofthe Middle Fork;or (2) travel/lineup the TangleRiver out of themuddy lake and paddle tothe 1-mile portage aboveDickey Lake. You may alsochoose to fly in to DickeyLake to begin your float trip.Grayling fishing can be veryfine in that section from theoutlet of Dickey Lake ondownstream 15 miles.

USE CAUTION: the first 5miles after leaving Dickeylake are Class II waters, and

a short stretch of Class IIIwaters lies approximately 6miles downstream fromDickey Lake. The last 10

miles of the Middle

Fork, before it flowsinto the mainstem

Gulkana, is a slowmeander and a

good time forwildlife viewing

and relaxing.

The ������� �drains several bogsand lake systems as

it travels down tojoin the mainstem of the

Gulkana River, 8 miles aboveSourdough. Here also,

waterfowl nesting andwildlife viewing are at their

best. A canoe is the bestchoice for travel along this

stretch. A float plane trip toseveral lakes along the West

Fork can provide access tothe river, depending on

water conditions.

Air charter operators forthese trips are availablethroughout the CopperRiver Basin. The CopperValley Visitor Center (907-822-5555) has currentinformation on area aircharter operators.

Another option is to enterthe upper reaches of theWest Fork from the TyoneRiver. Just a few shortportages, and the entiredrainage is available toyour canoe paddle,camera, and fishing rod.

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The most popular andscenic section of the

Gulkana River is the 50-mile stretch from Paxson

Lake downstream toSourdough. Anglers who

float this section in June

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through August are treatedto some of Alaska’s premiergrayling fishing. These fishaverage 8 to 16 inches longand are relatively fast-growing; most fish caughtare 3 to 5 years old.

To experience the upperGulkana River, floaters inrafts or canoes begin at thePaxson Lake campground(Mile 175 Richardson Hwy)and paddle the 3 miles tothe outlet of Paxson Lakewhere they can fish forgrayling, lake trout, andwhitefish. The next 3 miles,to the confluence with theMiddle Fork, is swift,boulder-strewn water, withexcellent grayling fishing.Then the river meandersover a 16-mile stretch,broken up by small rapidsthat provide fast-actiongrayling fishing (and anoccasional rainbow trout).The river then enters anarea called Canyon Rapids

(Class III/IV). The well-marked 1/4-mile portagearound the rapids is usedby all but the most experi-enced canoeists, kayakers,or rafters equipped withsuitable rowing frames.Eight miles of smallboulder rapids andexcellent grayling fishinglie below the canyon.From there to Sourdough,the river meanders moreslowly with occasionalriffles and small rapids.The entire float coversalmost 50 river miles, andanglers should allow aminimum of three or fourdays to complete the trip.Camping sites are plenti-ful along the woodedshoreline.

Two main 7-mile long trailsprovide access to themiddle reaches of themainstem Gulkana. TheMeiers Lake-Middle Forktrail begins at Mile 169

Richardson Highwayand passesthrough forest,bog, andalpine tundraas it winds itsway back tothe confluenceof the MiddleFork. TheHaggard Creektrail (Mile 161)runs throughbogs andlowlands andintercepts theGulkana in theCanyon Rapidsarea. Bothtrails are opento ATVs, but bogs andlowlands make motorizedtravel difficult.

� �� �������� � �� ��������� With declining graylingpopulations in other area

roadside streams, andresultant closures and baglimit restrictions, manyanglers are turning to theGulkana River to fish forgrayling. The Gulkanasupports a healthy popula-tion of Arctic grayling and ispresently being managed

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Anglers fishing the GulkanaRiver can anticipatehooking a rainbow troutduring their float trip. Theriver is home to the mostnortherly native populationof rainbow trout in NorthAmerica.

Our research shows fewerfish than in historic counts.Because these trout areslow-growing and few innumber, certain restrictionshave been placed in orderto protect this unique

resource.

for conservationof its historic

grayling size, agecompositions,

and abundancelevels.

Size and baglimits have been

introduced toprotect the larger

grayling for spawning. Todo your part, keep a few of

the more numeroussmaller grayling for your

shoreside lunch.Practicing catch-and-

release (see tips on page11) also helps insure the

continued health of thegrayling population in

this system.

As in other areas, graylingin the Gulkana concen-

trate in large schoolsduring their spring and fall

migrations. In summer,they move to feedingareas (larger fish are

usually found in the upper

reaches of the river). Drifting

aquatic insects: mayflies,

stoneflies, and caddis flies

are the grayling’s primary

food source—although

terrestrial insects, salmon

eggs, and outmigrating

salmon smolt are also a part

of their diet. The grayling’s

healthy appetite and

willingness to strike at

almost anything an angler

can offer makes spincasting

and flyfishing effective.

For spincasting, a couple of

favorite lures are small red

and silver spinners and

white or yellow jigs (similar

to a crappie jig). Cast the

spinners upstream and

retrieve the lure slowly

near the bottom.

For flyfishing enthusiasts,

dry flies (#14–#16) are

recommended in the

slower river sections. Wet

flies (#10–#12) are usually

more productive in fast

water. A few favorites are

mosquito imitations,

“Adams,” elk-hair caddis,

and various nymphs such

as the hare’s ear.

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Please consult the Region III

(AYK/UC/US) Sport FishingRegulations summary for

daily bag and possessionlimits and any special

regulations that apply tothe Gulkana River.

Page 8: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

King salmon fishing is

excellent from late Junethrough mid-July, and Arctic

grayling move into thelower streams crossed by

the Richardson Highwayduring early to mid-May as

they migrate upstream tospawn.

During May, thetwo top Arctic

grayling producersin the lower

Gulkana areSourdough Creek

(Mile 147.5) andPoplar Grove Creek

(Mile 137). Thepreferred terminal

tackle in this reachis white or yellow

jigs.

From late June to

mid-August, the lowerGulkana also holds large

schools of sockeye salmonon their way to upstream

spawning grounds.

Sport fish guiding services

are available in Glennallen,Gakona, and at Sourdough.

Call Greater Copper ValleyChamber of Commerce for

listings: (907) 822-5555.

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King salmon (25

to 50 lb) enterthe river in early

June, and bylate June they

reach peakconcentrations.

Sockeye salmonenter the river

in late June, andthe sockeye

salmon runstays strong

through mid-August.

Salmon eggs fished near thebottom or "back-bouncing"

hot-shots produce goodking catches.

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Sockeye are usually

caught on large streamerflies fished close to shore.

But, although largestreamer flies have been

generally preferred forcatching sockeye salmon,

a new approach hasproven to be very

effective: single,barbless, blue, black, or

red fishing hooks.Sockeye feed primarily

on zooplankton, and thecolored bare hook is

apparently very tantaliz-ing. In lakes, the bare

hooks have been mosteffective when fished on

a 16-inch monofilamentleader behind a chrome

dodger.

Sockeyes migrate up the

entire length of theGulkana River and pass

through Paxson andSummit lakes, where the

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Land downstream ofSourdough is primarily

private and Native corpo-ration lands. Be sure to

obtain permission from thelandowner(s) before you

enter these lands. River-front land below ordinary

high water mark is publicland.

Anglers can float the riverfrom Sourdough camp-

ground (Mile 147.6Richardson Hwy.) down-

stream to the RichardsonHighway bridge (about 30

river miles). Sourdoughcampground is also the

main access point forpower boats that fish the

Gulkana River from thecampground up to the

West Fork.

Page 9: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

bestfishing is

foundalong the lake shore and

at the mouth of GunnCreek in Summit Lake

during late August andSeptember. This sockeye

fishery offers anglers aunique opportunity to

prospect sites and tech-niques without competi-

tion from other anglers.

Sockeye numbers

increased after develop-ment of the Gulkana River

Hatchery (at Mile 185

����������� �� � ����� ��������������

Richardson Highway). About36 million eggs are taken

each year, providing 40,000to 50,000 returning adult

sockeye annually for sportanglers in the Gulkana River.

Few anglers target sockeye

in the Gulkana, and the

abundant supply of sockeye

throughout much of the

summer is an untapped

resource, just waiting for the

prospecting angler.

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Downstream of thebridge (at Mile 127),

the Gulkana River ismanaged as a single-

hook, artificial fly areafrom June 1 to July 31

of each year. Themajority of land be-

tween Sourdough andthe Copper River is

owned by Ahtna, Inc.,one of 12 Alaska Native

regional corporations.Ahtna, Inc. does not

allow access across theirland without a permit.

Apply in person foraccess permits at Ahtna,

Inc., in Glennallen atMile 115 Richardson

Highway.

Anglers seldom fish the

lower reach because of

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its inaccessibility and the

gear restrictions. How-ever, you can get to the

mouth of the GulkanaRiver by a 12-mile

riverboat trip up theCopper River from the

mouth of the Klutina.

Two of the largest lakes in

the Gulkana River drain-age—Summit and Paxson

lakes—offer excellentfishing for lake trout,

grayling, burbot, andsockeye salmon. The new

boat ramp and expandedcampground facilities at

Paxson Lake (Mile 175Richardson Highway)

provide good access tothis popular fishing site,

and access is also avail-able at the Paxson Lake

Wayside (Mile 180). The

Page 10: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

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Richardson

Highway

parallels

Summit Lake

and provides

many access

points along

the lake shore.

Lake trout and

grayling fishing in

both lakes is best in

early summer. Lake

trout can be caught

by casting from shore

or by jigging or

trolling from a boat.

Shore fishing is most

productive early in the

season, when the ice

is melting off the lake

and at the mouths of

inlet streams.

Lake trout fishing is alsogood during late winter/

early spring while jiggingthrough the ice with large

spoons or cut fish. (Jiggingalso produces good burbot

catches in summer.) Alarge flashy lure to act as

an attractant combinedwith cut fresh fish as bait

will often improve yourluck.

A number of otherlakes and streams

that lie along theDenali and

Richardson high-ways offer goodfishing. Many

lakes are in con-trolled use areas where ATVs

are prohibited, so anglersmust walk in. For informa-

tion on these areas, contactthe Bureau of Land Manage-

ment, Glennallen District,P.O. Box 147, Glennallen,

AK 99588, (907) 822-3217;and ADF&G offices in

Anchorage (267-2218),Fairbanks (459-7207), and

Glennallen (822-3309).

Favorite tackle includes

streamer flies, brightlycolored spoons and

spinners, and baitsuch as cut

herring.

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Anglers who fish theGulkana may catch agrayling, king salmon, orrainbow trout with a tagjust below its dorsal fin.The department hasconducted studies ofgrayling and rainbowtrout in the Gulkana Riversince 1986, and thetagging information playsa major role in our datacollection efforts. Shouldyou catch a tagged fish,please note the tagnumber, date, andlocation caught, andreturn this informationto any ADF&G employeeor office. If you keep thefish, remove its tag andreturn it with the date andlocation where youcaught it.

Please do not removethe tag if you are

planning to release thefish.

Page 11: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

Points of Interest. The scenery is superb, and there isalways a good chance of seeing moose, bear, beaver,wolf and an occasional caribou. Many species ofwaterfowl nest along these systems (especially the

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To access the Gulkana River, it is first necessary toboat or row across three miles of Paxson Lake fromthe public campground to its outlet. Unless you arean experienced floater, it is recommended that you usethe Canyon portage—200 yards long. A marked trailis there. You will find good rainbow fishing below therapids, and excellent grayling fishing throughout theriver. Some king salmon and red salmon are in theriver during July, which is the best month. The tripis not considered difficult, although a few personshave dumped their rafts. You should travel with atleast two rafts or canoes, and allow a minimum ofthree days for the trip.

An extension of the above float trip. Fishing is fairto good. No falls, but many long series of rapids—we recommend four days minimum for this trip.Sourdough Campground to Gulkana Village canbe done in two days. Takeout points at SourdoughCampground and the Richardson Highway bridgecan be reached by automobile.

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Crosswind to Sourdough trip), creating wonderful oppor-tunities for the photographer.

Camping. If you stay below the high water mark you willbe on the state right-of-way. Practice low-impact campingtechniques.

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This entails transporting your rafts or canoes toCrosswind Lake—about 15 minutes flying time fromTolsona Lake (at mile 170 Glenn Highway).

From CrosswindLake to themouth of WestFork Gulkana,there are laketrout, graylingand whitefish.Below thatpoint, there aregrayling, redsalmon, andking salmon.Fishing is onlyfair in the WestFork Gulkana,but there is goodfishing inCrosswind Lakeand Fish Lake.Dog Creekoriginates at theoutlet of Cross-wind Lake,passes through

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four lakes (including Fish Lake), and drains into theWest Fork. Dog Creek is small and winding, butthere are no long or difficult rapids. The West Fork

also has no dangerous sections—it is quiteflat in spots and relatively slow. Plan aminimum of three days from Crosswindto Sourdough Campground.

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Dog Lake

Crosswind Lake

Fish Lake

Poplar GroveCreek

West Fork Gulkana R.

Middle Fork Gulkana River

Sourdough Creek

Mile 160Haggard Creek Trail to rapids

Mile 148Sourdough Campground and access

Mile 141.5 trail

Mile 137 access trail

Mile 123 trail

Mile 127 (bridge)

Mile 129.4 trail

to Glennallen

Cop

pe

rRiver

Tok Cut-off

Richardson

Hw

y

Main

Branch

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Page 13: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

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� nglers have been participating since the 1960s in the ADF&G Trophy Fishh Program. Minimum weights for trophy fish certificates are listed below.

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����������� Lbs/oz Year Location Angler

Arctic char/Dolly Varden 10 lb 19/12.5 1991 Noatak River Ken Ubben

Brook trout 3 lb (Species added in 1995—no entries to date)Burbot 8 lb 24/12 1976 Lake Louise George R. Howard

King salmon seeÿ* below 97/4 1985 Kenai River Lester AndersonChum salmon 15 lb 32/0 1985 Caamano Point Fredrick ThynesCoho salmon 20 lb 26/0 1976 Icy Strait Andrew Robbins

Cutthroat trout 3 lb 8/6 1977 Wilson Lake Robert DenisonGrayling 3 lb 4/13 1981 Ugashik Narrows Paul F. KanitzHalibut 250 lb 459/0 1996 Unalaska Bay Jack Tragis

Lake trout 20 lb 47/0 1970 Clarence Lake Daniel ThorsnessLingcod 45 lb 71/0 2000 Seward Mark D. Gomez

Northern pike 15 lb 38/0 1991 Innoko River Jack WagnerPink salmon 8 lb 12/9 1974 Moose River Steven A. Lee

Rainbow/steelhead trout 15 lb 42/3 1970 Bell Island David White

Rockfish 18 lb 37/2 1995 Passage Canal Colin GambleSheefish 30 lb 53/0 1986 Pah River Lawrence E. Hudnall

Sockeye salmon 12 lb 16/0 1974 Kenai River Chuck LeachWhitefish 4 lb 9/0 1989 Tozitna River Al Mathews

* �King salmon minimum weight in the Kenai River is 75 lb. For the rest of the state, it is 50 lb.

Entries must be weighed in the presence of witnesses and a Trophy FishOfficial, on a scale currently certified by the Division of Weights and Measures.

At least one witness is mandatory, as is a photograph. Entries must be legallycaught, from waters open to the public, in compliance with current ADF&G

sport fishing regulations. ■

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Page 14: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

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Page 15: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

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Page 16: ˇ - Home Page, Alaska Department of Fish and Game campground is also the main access point for power boats that fish the Gulkana River from the campground up to the West Fork. best

Paxson

toValdez

McLaren River

Crosswind Lake

Summit Lake

PaxsonLake

TazlinaLake

Klutina Lake

Copper R.

HW

Y.

DENALI HWY

Gulkana River

GakonaRiver

Middle Fork

Gunn Cr.

TOK

CUT-O

FF

West Fork

Dickey Lake

TangleLakes

Klu

tina

R.

Cop

per

Riv

er

Fish Lake

CanyonLake

PaxsonLake

DickeyLake

Swede Lake

UpperTangleLakes

Sourdough

Sourdough CreekCampground

Paxson LakeCampground

Canyon Rapids

MP 175

MP 169

MP 161

Susitna River

North Branch

SouthBranch

0 5 10 mi

0 5 10 km

MP 147.5

MP 170

Paxson

TRANS-ALASKA PIPELINE

Glennallen

GLENNHWY

RIC

HA

RD

SO

N

RIC

HA

RD

SO

NH

IGH

WA

Y� to

Summit LakeDenali

Hwy

Tangle LakesCampground

to GlennallenCrosswind

Lake

WEST FORKGULK A N A

MIDDLEF O RK

(portage)

Delta Wayside boat launch

M

acla

ren

Riv

er

GU

LK

AN

AR

.

M

AIN

BR

AN

CH

The Gulkana

R i ver

trai l

Tang

leRiver

Tyone

R

iver